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Everything posted by rageracing

  1. Got my new front springs in. It has new bushings in the front but where do you get the threaded bushing at for the rear?
  2. The problem I have with Hagerty is its only covered during car shows and parades. Hoping a different insurance would be more driver friendly. Safeco seems to be good that way but I think their valuation is way to low.
  3. What kind of insurance do you use? I use Hagerty now but they pretty much don’t allow you to drive the cars. I was told if I can substitute my daily then it’s not covered. I don’t do car shows and cruises so that eliminates that. I called safeco and they seemed to fit the bill but only valued the truck at $5,000 replacement cost. I told them I’ll buy everyone they can find like that for that price. So I guess the search continues.
  4. Just reassembled my tie rods with new ends but the boots they came with are way big. Anyone know where to get the correct ones. 34 Plymouth PE
  5. The sedan is original as well. Do you happen to know a dimension that the top hood should be set too?
  6. Some more pictures of things that need addressed
  7. I don’t see a spacer between the hood and grill shell. I’ll get another picture when I get home
  8. Don’t worry the offer for your ride is still good if you are ever in the reading,pa area
  9. Thought I would start a thread on the 33. Problems so far that I see are the hood fitment, broken drivers side front main leaf, half welded, half bolted trans crossmembers because it has 35 drivetrain parts, fuel and brake lines need redone/re-routed, leaking radiator, exhaust. I bought a 33 engine and trans out of a 33 humpback so that part can eventually be addressed. Bought new leaf spring packs from Eaton spring, should have them in 2 weeks or so. Do people usually pull new packs apart to paint the individual springs or just paint it assembled? They springs will most likely be raw steel when they arrive.
  10. Hey Keizer now we can make this 2
  11. Search is over. Purchased truck off a current member here. It has a chrome grill shell with “made in America” stamped on the bottom. Is this aftermarket?
  12. Had a local shop build me a new driveshaft for my 34 PE. Is it alright to just use grade 8 bolts to attach it to the rear or should I look for something with a shoulder on it? Do not remember what the fasteners were when I took the original one off 3 years ago. Thanks
  13. Looking to buy a 33-35 1st series pickup. The more complete the better. Would prefer it to be able to run. Looking to make it a fun project to do with my kids. I think a fun way to learn about these vehicles is to start small by being able to pick a component and rebuild it. My current truck needs assembled and total restoration which we do not have the time to start that.
  14. I agree with ply33. Looks to be a newer motor then 33 and 34.
  15. Looking for a replacement headlight switch knob for my 34 PE. Let me know if anyone has one. thanks
  16. Thanks for the help. Maybe I will try and get the bent screw out and put a shim in there for now till I can find another knob.
  17. Is that picture for sale on eBay currently?
  18. I think that’s the problem. I wonder if there is something I can stick inside for now. Like a thin piece of shin stock to kind of do the same thing
  19. The headlight switch in my car is very hard to turn. The switch is also always loose. Are they rebuildable and am I missing something here?
  20. I don't see why it won't work. As long as it fits the nose of the transmission and the fingers of the fork assembly hit the correct spot you should be good. I thought 38s used a fork instead of the rod with the 2 ears like the throw out bearing you have pictured. The later style has clips that hold the fork and throw out bearing together instead of that internal spring. Looking at my parts book 39 went back to the rod design but I still thought the 40s used the fork.