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53BuickSuperConv

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Posts posted by 53BuickSuperConv

  1. I thought the same thing after talking with Jon Meyers (Stude guru for post-war cars, Avantis etc).   He figured it was just overflowing, and sold me an Avanti overflow kit which I have yet to have time to hook up.   But yesterday, coolant was right up to neck simmering like it should after I got home, and it had  not spit a drop.  Strangest thing.   Yes, I was thinking air from pump or somewhere due to the foaming (and water was ok).   Might have been dumb luck yesterday, and will start spitting again next time. 🙂     Can't believe that has anything to do with coils or "spitting engine"!   I torqued the head when I put the new gasket on of course. and no change.   I'll dare bet the waterpump has not been touched in OVER 40 years since we got it; I know I've never touched it.  Dad just drove it (along with his other five old cars) in parades and such around the farm, so no serious miles on it in all that time, nor any real 'work' except what I've done (rebuild fuel pump as I first suspected lack of fuel at the cause of dying on the road, since it always required priming to start also).    Just happy it runs again, Only drive it a few miles once or twice a summer, as the farm is 3 hours away.    As long as Dad hangs in there anyway! 94 and going strong; yet.

     

  2. UPDATE:  popped a set of NAPA 6V coils (yes, theirs SAY 6V on them unlike the Pertronix 'voltage doesn't matter') in the '28 President yesterday, and it popped right off and ran smooth as silk.  Well, it also RAN smooth on the original coils; until a mile or two down the road when it sputtered and died on me all the time.   Yesterday, drove it a good 5 miles, not a hiccup.  Think the problem is fixed.  No clue why the Pertronix coils didn't work but that's all I did was swap them out for a "Ford 8N" equivalent 6V NAPA set.

    (the NAPA resistance IS 0.5ohm, vs the 3.0 ohm on the pertronix I bought.  Whether that makes any difference,.... the pertronix rep didn't think so but also couldn't keep from saying I must have it wired wrong as his best explanation).

     

    OK, here's a weird question that i can't think of ANY relationship to coils; but...    For years (ever since we've had it? 40 years?) the President has had a tendency to overflow the radiator, even when not overheated (per working temp gauge).  Typically when de-celeratirng and coasting or coming down the driveway from a short run around the country road.  Erupts around the radiator cap and flows down the hood.   Used to think it was incorrect cap, but found a correct (fluted to match headlights!) cap several years ago, and still did it.  Dad always ran water in it and it didn't seem to bother as much. Again, car is NOT overheating.   I took the head off a few years ago and put a new head-gasket on (head appeared flat, did not plane it).  Didn't change, still threw frothy coolant out if not plain water.   Thought maybe air leak in pump or something...  Only reason I mention it as YESTERDAY'S drive had NO overflow at all.  And taking cap off, coolant was up at top of the neck (hot).  "Normal" drive all the way around,  for first time with coolant in it.  (and I DO have Prestone in it year round; never could get those rear drain plugs out of the beast so fear water in Minnesota!)

     

    I can't think of any possible relationship to the coils or how the engine is running since it was not overheating previously, but....  how to explain new coils, "good spark" at last, and now no more throwing coolant around the radiator cap?     Strange.....

  3. On 9/20/2020 at 10:33 PM, maok said:

    If you are not using the Pertronix modules in the distributor, your current spark plug wires are fine with the flamethrower coils.

     

    I dare say you have a couple 12v coils not 6v.

    Interesting in regard to this:  the Pertronix coils (nor the website, I realize in hindsight) do not specify 6v or 12v.   (I SEARCHED for 6V coils and these came up; NEVER RUSH is the lesson learned again.     Taking to the Pertronix rep about this, according to him it "doesn't matter" and they don't specify a voltage for their coils, but do recommend different ohms (thought 3.0ohm was right for 8 cylinder then when I explained again TWIN POINT/TWIN COIL system, though 0.5ohm, BUT still argued either one should work with this slow-cranking sytem and I must have wired it wrong.  Anyway, you can bet I'm done dealing with Pertronix, though I know people like their ignitions for my other Stude, '57 Golden Hawk (in progress). Maybe I'll keep these to try in THAT when I get it completed.

     

  4. Thanks guys.  I did call Pertronix, and the rep (who has a vintage 1918 auto himself so thought he would be helpful) was pretty clueless, DID point out the 0.5ohm would be 'better' but with a twin coil  system (only 4 cylinders per coil) had no idea why these 3ohm coils wouldn't work as well. After endless discussion of what I must have done wrong in wiring them (ignored the fact IT FIRED, and then RAN with an old Model-A Ford coil wired in exactly the same way), he rudely said "everything I'm trying to help you with, you have an answer for, so I guess our coils are just not going to work for you".  And (didn't expect them to but HOPED), would not take them back since I'd used them and DID scratch them. SO I'm stuck with $70 worth of Pertronix coils; anyone need them? 🙂    Would they work for my 1957 Studebaker Golden Hawk with 289 supercharged V8?   

     

    Regardless, I DID have NAPA order in a couple of 6V coils for a Ford 8N tractor (figured close to my Model-A Ford, which works), and they will fit; going up to the farm tomorrow and hopefullY DRIVE THE CAR for the first time in 3 years! 🙂 .     

    Really strange the Pertronix rep said NOTHING about it not being for a points system, just endless quizzing of how I had it wired and assumptions I had it backwards for a positive ground system (and then he reversed himself, agreed I was correct; thanks to a diagram one of you posted here years ago! 🙂 

    Thanks for everyone's help!    What a hassle for such a SIMPLE problem; if only NAPA's stocked coils had fit my firewall bezels, I'd have been done and $70 ahead.   Or ordered a set from a Model-A Ford supply house as originally planned, but would have taken too long (2 weeks ago; ha!!)

  5. I should have also mentioned, car is 100% (well, got repainted at some point and someone put a heater in about 70+ years ago) original and stock.   So maybe the pertronix coils simply are not compatible?  I looked on their site for the number to call tomorrow and ask about this, and noticed a Q&A that mentioned "do NOT use solid core spark plug wires".   Have no idea what the 92 yr old wires are, likely braided, but just in general sounds like a specialized coil that for some reason does NOT like 1928 ignition design? 😞    $70 wasted, just because NAPAs coils a  1/16" too large a diameter.   Will have to get some Model-A Ford coils or Ford 8N, at least I know they WORK and fit.

    Coils.jpg

    P9200741.JPG

    Studebaker 1928 FB President.jpg

    P6160097.JPG

  6. Thanks: re: NAPA, the one they had was too large a diameter.  (same at Advanced Auto).  WIth the firewall-mounted coils, I had to get a similar mount that is reproduced for '35 Dodge truck (lucky to find it!  original coils and bezels are one-piece).    But 2.15" (or something like that) max diameter to fit.

     

    Re: needing a 1.5ohm for 8cylinder engine; this is a twin-coil straight eight, so one coil for four cylinders (right? assume every other one or some such splitting?  Don't understand WHY there are two coils to be honest).    I'll call Pertronix, but can you explain that, and what is the resistance for a "standard NAPA coil" or any other 6V coil on Amazon or something?   I've only bought coils for my Model-A Ford and Dad's Ford 8N, and they are from restoration catalogs, so "only one choice".    A coil is a coil to me (or, so I thought).  Thanks guys!

     

  7. (posted in general AACA forum before noticing a Stude sub-chapter)

    Hi,

    after testing the coils for my 1928 Studebaker President (straight eight, twin 6V coils), my new friend Edinmass found them "shot", couldn't believe the car would start and run with them (92yr old originals!).

    I got a set of Pertronix "Flame-throwers", and with the choice of 1.5ohm or 3.0ohm resistance, some "Q&A" made me think 3.0ohm was better, "if it even mattered".

    (strangely, they don't say whether 12V or 6V, though I was searching for 6V. Does it matter?).

     

    PROBLEM: replaced the coils yesterday, excited to see if it solved my "drive for a mile and it dies" problem.   WOULD NOT START! ;-(    Pulled plug to check for spark, IT STARTED.  Put plug back in, no start.   Took a 2nd plug out (check other coil), and IT STARTED.   Put it back, no start.   Pulled all eight plugs just to check that all were sparking, and they were.  Put them back in, no start.  DID NOTICE that very weak spart with our 'typical check" of shorting screwdriver from plug to the head.    Removed one plug again (crazy, but only time it would start), this time no start.   
    Finally, wondering if 'bad coil(s)', took my Model-A Ford's coil and substituted for ONE of the Pertronix;  she started up at the first touch of starter (albeit rough, only one 'good' coil).  AND, the tried-and-true screwdriver method gave MUCH brighter spark to the cylinder head.

     

    What the heck is wrong with my new Pertronix coils?   They don't even offer a choice of voltage, and 1.5ohm vs 3.0ohm doesn't seem like an issue for a non-electronic ignition system like an old Stude.

    Only reason I didn't simply buy a set of 6V coils at NAPA was all they had were too large a diameter to fit the mounting bezels I found for the firewall.   What do I order instead?  (and anyone need some scratched up but brand new Pertronix #40511 coils? 😞  Doubt they will accept returns; $35/each.....)

     

    I have to be missing something simple (or the statistically improbable chance Pertronix sent two bad coils; I doubt it).

    Thanks!!

    Barry

  8. Hi,

    after testing the coils for my 1928 Studebaker President (straight eight, twin 6V coils), my new friend Edinmass found them "shot", couldn't believe the car would start and run with them (92yr old originals!).

    I got a set of Pertronix "Flame-throwers", and with the choice of 1.5ohm or 3.0ohm resistance, some "Q&A" made me think 3.0ohm was better, "if it even mattered".

    (strangely, they don't say whether 12V or 6V, though I was searching for 6V. Does it matter?).

     

    PROBLEM: replaced the coils yesterday, excited to see if it solved my "drive for a mile and it dies" problem.   WOULD NOT START! ;-(    Pulled plug to check for spark, IT STARTED.  Put plug back in, no start.   Took a 2nd plug out (check other coil), and IT STARTED.   Put it back, no start.   Pulled all eight plugs just to check that all were sparking, and they were.  Put them back in, no start.  DID NOTICE that very weak spart with our 'typical check" of shorting screwdriver from plug to the head.    Removed one plug again (crazy, but only time it would start), this time no start.   
    Finally, wondering if 'bad coil(s)', took my Model-A Ford's coil and substituted for ONE of the Pertronix;  she started up at the first touch of starter (albeit rough, only one 'good' coil).  AND, the tried-and-true screwdriver method gave MUCH brighter spark to the cylinder head.

     

    What the heck is wrong with my new Pertronix coils?   They don't even offer a choice of voltage, and 1.5ohm vs 3.0ohm doesn't seem like an issue for a non-electronic ignition system like an old Stude.

    Only reason I didn't simply buy a set of 6V coils at NAPA was all they had were too large a diameter to fit the mounting bezels I found for the firewall.   What do I order instead?  (and anyone need some scratched up but brand new Pertronix #40511 coils? 😞  Doubt they will accept returns; $35/each.....)

     

    I have to be missing something simple (or the statistically improbable chance Pertronix sent two bad coils; I doubt it).

    Thanks!!

    Barry

  9. thanks Edinmass, generous of you!  I'll have to take the coils out again and look at them closer, to determine whether (or HOW) a new coil can be retro-fit to those bezel-mounts.   last summer, it sure seemed they were integral to the coil but that really doesn't make sense, coils are generic, and even Studebaker wouldn't have made a unique coil just to fit flush on the firewall. (I don't think! 🙂 ). But looking at my photos below, I sure don't see how a new coil would be captured (and the whole thing IS the original 'tin can').    If they ARE one-piece as I recall,  If you could send your address I might take you up on that;  email is bsrosell@mmm.com.

     

      QUESTION: what is the issue to be aware of with the points?   I was at some point going to put in a new set.   I had purchased a new distributor cap, set of new points and new condensors several years, as I gathered parts that "someday" I'd need when I got to this car.   Meanwhile I've a '57 Golden Hawk apart, (going on 10 years, chassis almost done; work, 5 kids, and a disability with a walker will do that to you!) and dad's 53 Buick Super convertible (original) in line first.  But WOULD like the President to run and drive a bit!

    Thanks!!

    Barry

    President coil.JPG

    President firewall coils.JPG

  10. Hi, I have a 1928 Studebaker President FB, all original (bought from my dad, in family for over 40 years now).  It RUNS great, always has.  But last few years it has started dying after a mile or two driving it "just to get it out" from his farm.   Spits and coughs and just dies.   Like it is out of gas.  But rebuilt fuel pump, checked for good flow and drained gas tank, all good.  Suspected bad coils, had them checked and the guy said "they test ok, but hard to tell until they are hot".    So, wondering about replacing them?   Since they both are special (original tin-can) with flange that mounts directly into the firewall, how have you gone about replacing them with new 6V coils, while retaining the original flange mount?  This is the first post I've come across that addresses the coils and shows how they mount, and see yours ARE new coils.  Car is up at the farm so can't look but recall there was no way to separte them; might be wrong??   Thanks!   

  11. I tried rebuilding my pump with another lower casting we had laying around (marginally better condition), and both 'ears' promptly broke off when I started to mount it on the engine block. :- ) So, I am sending in my '28 FB fuel pump to "Then-Now" for rebuild and replacement of lower casting. They have been great to communicate with, and assured me it will fit and work when they are done. Thanks again for the tip, Stude8 !

  12. I just returned from my Dad's farm, where we started our 28 Studebaker President FB for the first time this spring. Was surprised to find three geysers of gas spraying from around the diaphragm of the fuel pump, and dismayed to find the pot-metal has finally cracked and given way in this area. Do any of you know what years will fit a '28 FB? Or suggestions on repairs to the pot-metal if replacements are as hard to come by as I'm afraid they might be? Thanks!

    Barry in St.Paul

  13. Hi, the parking brake knob on our '53 Super is stripped out completely, and dad has to carry a pliers to release the parking-brake. :-) Tried to find a nut to screw on even, so he can at least pull on SOMETHING, but seems to be an odd ball thread and/or diameter shaft. Have looked at the few sellers I have bookmarked and can't find any parking brake knobs listed. Do any of you have one of these or know a parts supplier that might have one? Thanks!

  14. Thanks!! That is great information from both of you, and if only "one year", probably explains why Bob struggled to obtain the correct part. I looked at the ring gear that I could see, but hard to move it by hand w/ screwdriver while laying under the car. I suppose I could take all the plugs out to do so and that would help. Thanks again guys!

    Barry

  15. Hi, I have a '53 Super V8 (Series 50) that has starter issues. A few years back, my Dad had the starter overhauled by a local mechanic (who is also a fellow member of our antique auto club). The mechanic had problems getting the correct pinion gear for the Bendix apparently, as we had to bring it back in twice because of problems (I wasn't home at the time, not sure what the issue was; not meshing I assume?) Anyway, the third time was apparently the charm, and has worked for a couple years, but now has started being hit & miss whether it engages or not. I removed the starter last weekend and the pinion gear is all chewed up on the end, like it wasn't engaging all the way into the ring gear. How do I get the CORRECT pinion gear for this? If it was a no-brainer, I don't know why our mechanic struggled (and he is a car collector himself). I have the specs from the '53 Factory Shop Manual, but not sure where to go with that information. Does the '53 Super take an unusual gear? I know it's different from the series 40 6V starter, but would have thought it was a common one for years after in the V8s.......??

    I'll also have to find someone to double-check the solenoid, but it WAS freshly rebuilt I believe....and seems that would be an all-or-nothing failure, not a partial-engagement with ring-gear problem?

    Thanks!

    Barry

  16. hi, brand new member. Have a 53 Super, Dynaflow with manual brakes. Has been in our family since '75. Removed the master cylinder yesterday to diagnose disappearing brake fluid (wheels are dry, must be the master cylinder, which does show some wet areas). Bore is pretty good, but some small pitting/wear areas. Wondering who might do re-boring and sleeve job, and what it would cost? Or, are NOS units still available out there? It would probably work ok with a simple rebuild kit, but I plan to keep this car in the family for many years to come, and might as well do it right.

    Thanks!

    Barry in St.Paul, MN

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