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Tom Beggan

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About Tom Beggan

  • Birthday 01/14/1966

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  1. I've been thinking about ways to reduce my RPMs at cruising speeds and I've got a few questions: Is it possible to change my 18" wheels to 19"? I'm planning to take them off this winter for sand blasting, painting and to have them "trued" at a local place nearby. If it's possible, I think I'd rather put 19" wheels back on there though. Is there such a thing as 19" wire wheel that will fit my car? Is there anything available in terms of the rear end? Either a two-speed unit or something with a less agressive ratio that would fit? thanks! Tom 1932 coupe, 6-cylinder
  2. Thanks Charles, I figured there'd be an interesting story in there somewhere. I tend to be a fan of the flathead because it looks so different. I don't mind telling you I'd certainly appreciate a few more rev's (for highway travel), but that's the way they built them. take care, Tom
  3. Just curious, but it strikes me that my Pontiacs (a 1932 6-cylinder and a 1934 8-cylinder) came without overhead valves, while other cars, like Chevy and Buick, etc... already had overhead valves as far back as the late twenties. The Buick makes sense I suppose, but if Pontiac was positioned as a "step up" from Chevy, why would Chevys come with a more advanced engine? I've always wondered about that. And I'm betting there's an interesting story behind it too. Also, is there any advantage/disadvantage in overhead designs vs those they replaced?
  4. New update........ I just went to get a closer look at the carb and when I pulled back on the throttle linkage (to get a better look at the brass tag), gasoline poured right out of the carb and it continued dripping for about 15 seconds. I'd say I got enough to fill about 1/3 of a shot glass, maybe more. There's definitely something wrong here. Jon, what's the number to your carb shop? thanks, Tom
  5. Hi Jon, just curious....... I've seen/heard a few indicators that "maybe" the Marvel carbs don't have a very good reputation. Is that the case? Or am I imagining things? The other reason I'd be curious is just in case I ever decide to pull off the Carter in favor of an original spec Marvel. If they're junk, I'd squash that thought before I ever got close to doing it. thanks, Tom
  6. Actually, it'd be easier to show you the pictures from the dealership I bought it from out in Seattle. http://www.dragers.com/photos.php?sku=dgc3151&desc=1 There are over 80 photos, so it might be worth grabbing a few before they get removed. take care, Tom
  7. Thanks again for the input guys. I have just checked and I am NOT running the original Marvel Updraft. I've actually got a Carter BB-1 Updraft in there instead. I've done a bit of research and evidently this Carter Model was OEM equipment in Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth cars, and Chevy Trucks. It was also a very common model to use as a replacement for failed OEM carbs. I suspect that's how this one made its way into my car. When I called a carburetor specialty shop to ask about getting a rebuild kit, I told them the model number but that wasn't enough. They said they needed a tag number too because they make 18 different kits for the Carter BB-1 (depending on slight variations) and that I'd better find that number before I place my order. I did spot a shiny brass tag with some letters stamped on it, but it's obscured by a few components and the darn thing is so reflective that I can't read the letters. I'm thinking I'll go take a few pictures of it and adjust them in the computer like a crime lab tech. And thanks for the warning on the 18" vs 19" wheels. I am running 18" wheels, and the fastest I've had the car is 55mph. Somehow it just feels happier if I keep it to 45 or less. Maybe it's the sound it makes or the chassis harmonics, I'm not sure, it's just a feeling I get that says "that's enough" at 45mph.
  8. Reid, that's good news on both counts. I bet a lot of my MPG trouble is a direct result of that fuel leak. Also, you say your car will do 55mph? I've been keeping mine to a max of 45mph but I'd absolutely LOVE to get another 10mph out of it!!! I just tend to be extra careful with babbitts and extra long rods. I've never been sure they'd handle the extra RPMs. I tried 50mph a while back and speeds up that high would make the engine spray oil all over itself and send smelly burnt oil fumes into the cabin. It turns out that I had two leaks that only caused trouble at the higher speeds. 1. The oil dip stick had no seal on it, so oil was splashing up through the dip tube. Now fixed. 2. One of the spark plugs had no crush washer fitted to it and oil was leaking out of the plug hole. Now also fixed. Now that these are both fixed, maybe I should try 50mph or 55mph again. Have you modified anything to get up that high? Do you think my 45mph limit is a bit overly cautious? thanks as always, Tom in New Hampshire
  9. Hi, I've got a 32 Coupe with a 6-cylinder and I'm curious about a few things: 1. Should my Carburetor be leaking? It drips constantly while the engine is running and for about an hour or so afterwards. I doubt this is normal, but you never know. 2. Any tips on where to find a good rebuild kit for the carburetor? 3. What should my MPG be? I'm getting between 8-10 and that seems low to me. I had a 34 Pontiac Touring Sedan with an 8-cylinder and it did about 14-15. thanks! Tom New Hampshire
  10. Does anyone know where I could buy a 1930 Oakland Service Shop manual? I'd also be interested in the 1931 supplement (I've already got the 1932 supplement). I don't care if it's original, copied, reproduced or just a computer PDF file; I really need a service manual. THANKS!!! EDIT: I found the manual! Contact below: Lisa Pawlik Then & Now Automotive 447 Washington Street Weymouth, Ma 02188 781-335-8860 ljthen2@aol.com
  11. PERFECT !!! Reid, thanks for showing me how to adjust the steering box. I did all the adjustments and the steering is perfect now. I wouldn't have believed it unless I actually experienced it myself. MUCH APPRECIATED !!! Tom
  12. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tinindian</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Removal is simple though, remove steering wheel and horn wire, undo the clamp at the dashboard, remove the floor and toe boards, remove the pitman arm, undo the bolts to the frame and lift the box and column out. </div></div> And now that I see the removal explanation, I'd really rather try the adjustment option. I thought I'd be able to just remove the box. I hadn't planned on pulling out the whole steering column. There are 4 bolts on the side of the box and one near the column. I figured if I removed these, that I'd be able to detach the box from the pitman arm and slide the gear box down and off the column. So much for my wild ideas.
  13. Reid, The adjustment idea sounds great!!! I had no idea it was possible. If you wouldn't mind copying those pages for me, I'd be very happy to give the adjustment idea a try. Are these something you'd be able to scan and email, or would the need to go through the post? If you need the address shoot me a quick email or post here and I can get it to you. thanks! Tom
  14. My steering wheel has an inordinate amount of slop (about 4" of play side to side) so I'm planning to remove my steering box to have it rebuilt. Sadly, I have no shop manual. It looks simple enough, but is it really just 5 bolts and maybe a giant nut or two? Does anyone have the actual instructions? Is there a reputable rebuild shop out there that anyone can recommend?
  15. Would anyone have any idea where I could find these manuals? I don't need originals (although that would certainly be nice), I'm mainly interested in the information they contain. I'd be very happy to get a hold of scanned copies or even PDF (especially if they're searchable!) Thanks! Tom
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