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in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
Posted November 28, 2013
Posted November 14, 2013
The temp gauge fluctuations are NORMAL. I know it is not like other cars you've driven but the TC is not like other cars you have driven. Be at peace my brother.
Posted November 6, 2013
This is some advise Hemi gave me some years ago:
It is true that mechanics don't want to do just boots any more.
The reasons are many, 1- They don't know how, 2- They make more money selling you the complete shaft, 3- They are not responsible for any subsequent boot failure, 4- They can't find the correct boot for the application, especially a TC.
It would be my personal advice to you to just get the whole shaft as your problems later would be fewer. Order 1- NCV12539 Axle Shaft.
Posted April 24, 2013
to attach the hook and loop to the metal, I cleaned with denatured alcohol and used contact cement. smear on both the fabric and the metal wait 5 minutes press. It has been in place for over two years. I live in Cali, so the soft top in on MOST of the year.
Posted April 20, 2013
That fuse block is notorious for melting due to the heat generated. i and a few others here have btpassed the fuse with an inline one
Posted May 18, 2012
Kent. Reseat the top and latch it down. MOVE to a LEVEL spot and try again.
Posted May 17, 2012
While habitual belching is indeed nasty, the occasional burp, like after a nice long chug of Diet Pepsi, man that is livin'.
Posted May 16, 2012
Replaced the thermostat, gauge went up to half and then down. Just like the days of old (last week). I'll hit the freeway tomorrow morning for the ultimate test. The old one 'looked' OK, but who knows, a little pin hole and the whole thing is compromised. Thanks guys.
Yes Hemi the head does say remanufactured. I have had the car for several years.On initial start up the temp gauge goes up past 3/4 before it dives back down. This is a new, it usually went to about 1/2 or a little more before diving down. It seems to be opening late. The temp stays good in town driving after the initial scary temp rise, but at freeway speeds gets up past 3/4.
So I've been looking into my cooling problem. My Blue Book says the thermostat housing or water box has a plug on the top to 'burp' the system when refilling the radiator. Mine does not have this plug never has it is smooth on top
. Is my motor an early build? Does this present a problem as I can not 'burp' the coolant system. I am going to replace the thermostat tomorrow.....if time allows.
Posted May 14, 2012
Saturday I was driving down south to see my mom. It was in the high 90s. Most of the trip was uneventful, but after an hour of driving at 65 the temp gauge was creeping up to the 3/4 mark. It has never done this before. I slowed to 60 and it stayed there, for a while. It then crept a bit over the 3/4 but never into the HOT zone. I pulled over and checked the coolant level. The reservoir, it was churning but not overfilled or empty. I have driven in the heat plenty of times before, AC was not on as the top was down.
Got any clues as to why the change in the temp reading?
Hey not to jack this thread but what is the correct part number for the 89 water pump. I may be replacing mine soon.
Posted April 21, 2012
You checked the fuse box on the passenger side fender well? Small rectangular black box?
There is a fuse in there also sounds like it is shot.
Posted February 4, 2012
this will solve at least one of the TCs inadequacies
Posted January 7, 2012
and just a quick look Napa returns this:
NAPA AUTO PARTS)
Just make sure the tone ring come with. It is a drag changing them out
I don't know. I see advance auto has them, although the site says it is not for the TC. That being said I do trust Hemi, as do many here. He has never steered us wrong.
Posted January 6, 2012
Hemi said it came with the CORRECT tone wheel.
Posted January 5, 2012
Here is the part number that Hemi gave me a couple of years ago.
Order 1- NCV12539 Axle Shaft.
Posted December 21, 2011
Seems to me he hammered the socket on, at any rate when he hit it with the impact wrench it went to pieces.
Posted December 17, 2011
Locking wheel nuts I found are just about worthless as a deterrent to theft of ones wheels.
I had a blowout on my passenger front coming back from the bay area. Got towed off the freeway and AAA asked for the key. It was gone. He said no problem "mind if I just break it off ?" I said nope I gotta get on my way. He slapped a regular socket over the 'locking" wheel lug, hooked up his impact wrench and bingo off it went. Hooked up the spare ran four nuts to home. The locking wheel lug did'nt even really slow him down.
Take it from there.
Posted November 15, 2011
They are not expensive, very easy to replace and may well save you $1600 in repairs. They are basically a reservoir, holding 5 to 10 brake applications so your pump is not having to operate constantly. A constantly running brake pump will fail prematurely.
Have you replaced the accumulator yet? Sounds like you are in dire need of a new one.
Posted November 12, 2011
That fuse box on the passenger side fender well is a likely culprit for the failed brakes. The main fuse gets hot and or corrodes. I and many have replaced the fuse with an external one bypassing the troublesome fuse in the box. Check that fuse box, pull the fuses.
Posted October 17, 2011
Mine used to do this when it first came out of storage. After a while it just smoothed out. No problems anymore.