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Siegfried

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About Siegfried

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  • Birthday 09/23/1949

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  1. Way back in 1967 a fellow classmate purchased a very well used 1956 Healey. It was a blast to drive, and the windshield folded down. As A result we got chased by the local police for not having it up however; he couldn't catch us on the back country roads! Still remember that day as if were yesterday! Beautiful car and good luck with it.
  2. Another though came to mind after I depressed the the 'Enter Key' on my previous reply, and here is: Get a 'JUDGING MANUAL', and read the bloody thing because it says it all concerning the AACA judging standards and what we as judges look for. By the way since you're on the Forum why not go out and read the 'ONLINE' copy of the judging manual, and save yourself a few bucks by not buying one from AACA headquarters, or better yet join the AACA judging program and learn what the judges look for.
  3. Rick Marsh, Love your intregrity and knowledge, and you are one of the people I enjoy talking to every year at Hershey. Looking forward to seeing you in 2014 althought I've trade my spaces next to you to Alex and Rich I'll still be close by. You are without a doubt the 'AACA tire expert'. Thanks.
  4. I bought my first VW bug in 1969. A '65 sedan from a private owner, and installed the optional 3 point belts in it a few days later at Autohaus VW, Lancaster, Pa. A bunch of friends, and a few dealership mechanics made light of it. The owner of Autohaus, Herb Warner told me I had made a smart move. His family VW's all had 3 point belts. I've never wrecked a single VW, but if I had I'm sure the belts would have aided in my survival. They did keep me in the seat when I was hit from behind by a drunk driver at a traffic light back in 11/1977. He received a broken up face, and a destroyed car. I
  5. Bill, You'll have to take this up with Hershey Region. They set up the show field, and from what I know as a former Hershey Region member (and have been told by national officers) AACA National has nothing to do with the show field set up however; national 'COULD', and 'SHOULD' ask Hershey Region to place the 4's classes where they belong which in my opinion is after the 3's and before the 5's, and if that is not possible then they should at least place these classes up on the show field with other vehicles that are in the judging arena. Once again my opinion as follows: 'I feel it is disresp
  6. Pull the heads, and soak them in kerosene, or diesel fuel. fill the engine with the same, and let it soak. This will loosen up the junk that is in the oil passages. It may/will take a few treatments. After you are pleased with the results as seen by draining the engine; then drop the pan and clean it, drop the oil pump, and soak it so the pump, and pickup tube are clean. After you are done fill up with a light grade oil, maybe 5W30, remove the coil wire, and crank the engine to circulate the fresh oil, drain the oil, and check the it for sludge. If you are satified with what you see; then refi
  7. On a recent visit to the local Advanced Auto parts store I discovered a fuel additive for ethanol fuel. Add to your gas tank on fill up to help with performance problems. I bought it and put it my '99 2.0 liter Mercury Tracer, '05 2.5 liter Jetta, and '97 2.0 liter Jetta, and after 1 tankful per car the performance had improved, and so had the miles per gallon. Cost about $10.00 per bottle. Produced by LUCAS. I recently had the horror of seeing an intake manifold from a 30,000 mile car that dropped a valve. The intake ports were burnt BLACK! E-10 was probably the culprit. Also ethanol has a na
  8. Years back I restored a few gas tanks that had rock hard fuel in them. I used straight acetone to soak it out. However, I am not sure if acetone will harm brass. It was fine with steel tanks.
  9. CDN224, I've never tried a UV protectant spray as you mentioned. If it is compatible with the paint used then it is a good idea. What I have done is to come back to the wheel after the paint has cured (I wait 3 days), wet sanded with 1,500 to 2,000 grit paper, and then applied a urethane clear top coat. The urethane clear I use has UV protectants in the mix. I imagine base coat clear coat would work very nicely for steering wheels, and I expect to be trying this out this summer.
  10. I've restored plastic and rubber-plastic (as I call it) steering wheels from the 40tys through the 70tys. Different materials are required depending upon the wheel. Bondo does NOT work at least for me it did not. I tried it and the wheels recracked around the bondo. I've used PC-7, JBWELD, dental epoxy, and POR-15 expoxy dependent upon the wheel I was restoring. I've also used laquer thinner to soften up hard plastic so the repair material would bond into the existing wheel. A Dremel tool would be useful for enlarging the cracked areas as would both round and triangular files. I've restored o
  11. I own a 1977 AMC Hornet that was delivered with 14 inch bias ply tires. The original owner had 14 inch Michelin radials installed. My mother was the 2nd. owner. The radials were a dealer installed option that was factory approved. I know. I did the research. If the wheels were NOT capable of handling radials then, the factory would not have approved radials. My thoughts are that cars built in the 70tys era will be okay with radials. I installed Michelin radials on a 1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle, a 1967 VW Microbus, a 1966 VW Bug. a 1955 VW Bug, and a 1963 Karmann Ghia and NEVER had any problem
  12. Hey You All. Mustangs, Corvettes, and muscle cars have their own classes so why not Volkswagens? Think it over. As for me it really does not matter any longer. I'm just about done so I guess my opinion really does not matter to most of you. Hang 'Um High. I'm outta here...........
  13. A true sign of 'older age' when you remember ads from your teenage years, and still like seeing them. Thanks Chris I appreciate your efforts. Looking forward to seeing some more.
  14. Ron. Thanks for talking this over with Don. I'll be looking forward to maybe joining in.
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