Scooter Guy
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Posts posted by Scooter Guy
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You will get many opinions on what to do and not do when storing a vehicle and here's mine...
I would not put a few gallons of WD40 in the gas tank and then try to circulate it through the fuel system to use it as a protectant. WD40 is a solvent, not a replacement for fogging oil or a fuel system treatment. That said, if you search long enough on the internet you can find someone that has tried almost anything and swears by it and there are people that have done exactly what you're talking about. You could certainly try it and report back to us on how it went.
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Please provide some additional information if this is for sale:
What is the price?
What is the location?
Pickup only or are you willing to ship this?
Is it full or empty?
Weight?
Description of condition/function? (Yes, I see the one photo posted, but...)
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4 hours ago, edinmass said:
Costs of restoration and repair……and transportation will continue to put downward pressure on everything except the top three percent of the cars.
Yep, that's certainly what I see from where I'm sitting.
And, as you said, the great stuff is doing fine. I'd even say that's the case across the board with the top few percent of many types of cars, not just with the ultra high end pre-war stuff. Cars that obviously need a lot of sorting out or complete restoration seem to be a getting to be a tougher sell.
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The balled-up Ferrari is certainly an interesting conversation piece.
I'm not sure that it was purchased with the intention of being restored or if it ever will be.
I actually see it less like a restoration candidate and more as being a static display piece in as-is condition, almost like a sculpture, in a multi-vehicle collection.
If thought of that way and compared to works and prices in the contemporary/modern/industrial art world for large scale pieces and "installations," then $1.8M is a relative bargain.Or, I guess the buyer could spend a ton more and forever be the guy that restored the wrecked Ferrari.
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Arm & Hammer Baking Soda in a pie plate or pan has worked pretty well for me.
Not a miracle cure for really strong odor issues, but helps with cars that one might call "musty."I have also tired an inexpensive set of 5 of those activated charcoal "air purification" bags and would call those just okay - I don't find them particularly good at dealing with the musty smells, but I suppose these are absorbing some small amount of moisture which is likely beneficial.
I have never used an ozone machine or any stronger chemicals.
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31 minutes ago, West Peterson said:
Where did you see that Lyon bought that many cars?
There were articles about it in the Los Angeles Times and New York Times when this happened back in 1987.
There is a partial list of the cars in both articles, which can still be found online at the respective newspaper archives.
I have never seen a full list of the cars sold to Lyon though. -
15 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said:19 hours ago, Scooter Guy said:
On the other hand, you can insure the collector car yourself on any policy you want and then let whoever you want drive it as much as you want. That doesn't mean that insurance won't give you a tough time if there is an accident or liability issue, but that's on you.
On the other hand, that sounds like FRAUD
Fraud? See for yourself:
Car & Driver: Can someone not on your insurance drive your car?
Hagerty: FAQ section - including "who can drive my car?"
I do agree that a regular "borrower" of a vehicle (especially a child/member of same household) should be named on the policy as the policy and premiums are based on the risks that the insurance co knows about. Not disclosing a regular user on the policy can mean that insurance could refuse to cover them in the event of an accident or that the policy is cancelled completely due to misrepresentation. This is also why I said "that doesn't mean insurance won't give you a tough time if there is an accident or liability issue, but that's on you." However, it's certainly not fraud to let others borrow/operate the vehicle as much as you wish, which is what I suggested while acknowledging the insurance risks/issues. If the collector car is going to be the kid's daily driver, then the answer is not just letting them permanently "borrow" the vehicle. If they drive it sparingly, go to prom or take it to lunch every now and then, you're probably fine under consensual use clauses.
Of course an insurance agent could tell someone anything they wanted to know about coverage and can provide an answer applicable to the specific people and situation. Calling the agent is really, ultimately, the only way to know definitively what the answers are.
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Instead of insuring the kids on a collector car policy, which I think will be challenging, (and depending on what the car is) you might want to consider switching the car to a "normal" insurance policy to which you'd add your kids as additional drivers. It will probably be costly, but you may find it to be easier to get the kids on the policy if it's not a collector car policy. It puts the car at risk to some degree depending on the exact policy details, but if it's a daily driver and/or the kid is the primary operator, it may be your only real option.
On the other hand, you can insure the collector car yourself on any policy you want and then let whoever you want drive it as much as you want. That doesn't mean that insurance won't give you a tough time if there is an accident or liability issue, but that's on you.
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Have I done it? No.
Would I do it? No.
But, it can be done depending on how much hassle and risk one is willing to tolerate...
Send it registered mail, being careful about the amount of cash contained in each envelope. Hint: sending that much cash would take multiple registered mailings.
I guess you could always send it UPS, FedEx, DHL, whatever overnight and just hope for the best (I think that's insane, but technically it could be done).
There are companies in the financial services industry that service banks and such that do this kind of thing, but you're going to have to see if they're willing to take on work for an individual. Same for armored transport companies and the like. I wouldn't be surprised if they refuse, but that's where to look, in my opinion.
Personally, there is no way that I'd move that much cash without doing so in person. I wouldn't even consider mailing it.
Why wouldn't these guys do wire transfers or something other than trying to mail stacks of cash?
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3 hours ago, TAKerry said:
Its not the building that is the problem with the fire, its the contents! I was double insured, had business and personal insurance. I was able to recuperate, get a new shop built and replace some of the contents.
This is what I was thinking as well. I certainly understand how the materials used in construction become fuel for a fire and can make things worse, but when the contents themselves start the fire and there are plenty of contents to burn inside a building, then it doesn't really matter what the building is built with.
I'm sorry to hear about this fire and the associated losses but am glad that nobody was injured or killed as a result. We should all take whatever precautions we can to minimize our fire risk.-
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I enjoy automotive detailing and there are many things that I could say about it, but here's a few thoughts I had based on reading through the thread:
Wax is the "last step protectant" and, just like a good automotive paint job itself, is only as good as the preparation done prior to application. The washing, polishing, "paint correction" / swirl / scratch removal, etc. all needs to happen before waxing. As far as controlling wax residue and dealing with the cracks and crevices, I have found that it's much easier to use a paste wax that is applied by hand to avoid those issues. A paste wax application by hand generally uses less wax than a liquid wax, so it goes on thinner and buffs off easier. It's also a lot easier to control where exactly you are waxing and not waxing when done by hand with a paste wax than done with liquid wax or liquid wax applied with an electric buffer so that you don't get build up in the cracks in the first place.
I agree that the correct detailing tools, applicators, and towels do make a difference and do really matter when it comes to final results, especially when it comes to buffing off the wax. I would personally never take a toothbrush to my car's paint or emblems - seems awfully aggressive and scratchy to me.
There are thousands of different products and techniques to be used depending on what your situation is and what issue you are trying to address. My personal approach is touch the paintwork as little as possible in order to keep the car clean and to avoid abrading it constantly with detailing products. My car has all of it's original lacquer paint, so your situation may be different. My car is also known to have had the factory go really thin on the paint, so it's especially important to me to not constantly be grinding on it so that I'm not making it even thinner or burning through it in spots. I did wash, clay bar, and polish the car one time shortly after I got it to get it the surface as clean as it could be and then I waxed it. I do drive the car regularly (it's not a total garage queen), but it doesn't get that dirty and isn't ever out in bad weather, so I am able to maintain it by using the California Car duster (yes, I'm a fan of those for DUSTING (only) an already otherwise pretty clean car) and with quick detailing spray and appropriate towels. I do use wheel cleaners and some interior cleaners as well along with some rubber protectants, but overall am actually a bit of a minimalist when it comes to the variety of products that I use. I do not wash with water/hose and probably never will - I just don't need to force water into all of the tight spots and then try to get it all dried out. I can keep the car clean to my satisfaction without doing that, and I'm picky!
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There's lots of competition in that space: Morphy, Mecum, Richmond seem to get the bulk of the "premium" items and a handful of smaller outfits get the rest and are able to occasionally assemble enough consignments to have a nice auction. Every once in a while someone like Bonhams will auction automobilia as well, though it doesn't seem to be at a consistently high volume like Morphy, Mecum, etc.
Look at what those auction houses are doing in terms of fees for buyers and consignors, shipping, advertising, catalogs, online bidding, and so on. They have long established themselves as places that shoppers look for top drawer items, too, which is another challenge for a new company entering that market. That isn't to say you can't do it, but that you should look to these outfits for your best practices and then figure out if you want to do things the same way or have a different or better way to do business.I agree with previous comments that an online presence with online bidding available is critical in a niche market like this. And you need a reasonable shipping partner available for those that buy online and need items shipped. If I were running an auction company, I would ensure that I'd have as many ways as possible for customers to do business with me, so I'd get myself setup for every kind of bidding there is: online, proxy/absentee, phone and live. Have policies for storage and plans for shipping.
Although the auction world lives and dies by "as is, where is" and "let the buyer beware" it seems to me that you should take reasonable measures to authenticate the items you are selling and openly call out items that are known to be reproduction or cannot otherwise be guaranteed to be original. There are many, many, many fake/repro items out there and some of them are extremely well done.-
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6 hours ago, BrandoMiddleton said:
Hi there, folks. Apologies for reviving the thread. Need your advice on cleaning the DPF. Can I clean it myself or it's better to go to the service?
Short answer is no...you cannot clean it yourself. It is "self cleaning" (for lack of a better term) during the normal course of operating the vehicle as part of the emissions / exhaust system.
If you are having issues with your diesel truck that you know are DPF related, then take it in for service. There is virtually nothing you could do at home to fix or clean the unit yourself.
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On 2/23/2020 at 3:24 PM, jeff_a said:
There may be one in the Oldfields-Lilly House and Gardens in Indianapolis
There has been, for sure. It is an off-white / cream colored car. I used to live in the area and visit the Indianapolis Museum of Art & Grounds (now renamed Newfields) often and have seen that car.
However, they seem to rotate cars in and out of the garage regularly. I know I have seen a Stoddard-Dayton there, a Stevens-Duryea there, and (if I remember correctly) a Marmon and a Stutz. I don't recall exactly, but I believe Oldfields-Lilly House (or Newfields / Indianapolis Museum of Art - whatever it's called!) had a partnership with the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum when it came to dealing with the cars which would explain why it was mentioned by another poster that they thought the Indianapolis Speedway had one and why cars were rotated in and out. -
I would use Wurth's Silicone Free rubber care (it's a spray) and then leave it alone. It will not "seal" it, but will help keep it from getting totally dried out and will offer a little protection. It will not fix damaged rubber that is already cracked or discolored.
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6 hours ago, Buffalowed Bill said:
I quickly realized that it wasn't the cars that the young people didn't like, it was the organization that went with it.
This is what it's all about, not the dislike of cars.
Think about how your club(s) treats young people. Are they really welcomed, are they merely tolerated or are they treated with disdain and contempt?
Every struggling car club should stop and think about that. Heck, every member should stop and think about that. But there also has to be a willingness for organizations to change and adapt - if everything is met with nothing but resistance, the clubs of the future will struggle.
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I always found it interesting that although it was billed as a pace car replica, even if you ordered the pace car replica edition, you had to specifically order the decal set as an additional option at an added cost - they were not automatically included with the car. The following year, for instance, the ‘78 Corvette included the decals in a box that the buyer could opt to install or not.
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2 hours ago, 1wonton said:
I can read and understand my insurance policy, I know what it says. My Question is: I am towing an antique with my antique car/truck; what do others do for insurance on the towed car?
No need to be annoyed by the responses, mine or those from anyone else as the question you've now posed is not the question you originally asked, hence the responses you had received.
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According to this article (which has far more detail than the MSN article), the pledge is an estate gift and can, at the donor's option, be paid over time or in full upon the donor's death.
However, the pledge has nothing to do with the automotive restoration program at all. It's all for the "Community by Design" strategic plan - you can read more about it in this article. It involves student debt relief, building several new buildings on campus and further developing a couple of new programs.
Forbes Article about McPherson pledge
To me the trouble with a degree program like McPherson has nothing to do with giving the students some business sense (personally I think many shops and restorers are seriously lacking in that area), or planting the seed that they could open their own shops...the issue is that the program tuition is about $45k per year. If we're talking strictly about restoration skills and not about the value of a degree at all, then $45k per year is a lot to spend to learn them. There are other ways to acquire those skills that are not so expensive. For some people tuition at that level would lead to crushing debt for years and years and simply cannot be justified.
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2 hours ago, EmTee said:
Read your policy(ies) and talk to your agent. Accept no verbal answers.
All these answers and it comes down to really being that simple...
If you want to know what insurance you have and what's covered and what isn't, read your policy. That's the only way to know about your situation and your coverage. Make no assumptions.
If you want insurance coverage that you don't have, contact an agent and buy it. If they can't or won't find a way to sell you the coverage you want, find out why.
If you don't understand what your insurance covers or you have questions about it, talk to your agent and get the responses in writing. Make no assumptions (I know I already said that).-
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How was this show publicized? I live within just a couple miles of that exact location (I could practically walk there) and had no idea this was going on. And it seems like it was a "serious" show, too, not an informal parking lot meet up.
Now, admittedly I don't run in Pierce Arrow or CCCA circles, but this one literally happened just about under my nose and I can't believe I never heard about it or saw it mentioned anywhere. Did I miss an ad or calendar listing somewhere (other than PA Society or CCCA)?
I do Corvettes and two wheelers, but I would have loved to have stopped by to look around. Is it always the same dates and location?
Nice to see the photos, but disappointing to have missed it just because I didn't know about it.
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Depending on just how "analog" of an experience you want...
If you want a vehicle with no computers, no electronic ignition, an no electronic fuel management that means the most modern cars that fit that bill are from the late 1970s - about the mid 1980s. Those cars are all nearly 40 years old (or more). Unless you find one that's been well taken care of and maintained, you'll have some failures due just to age of parts not to mention items that will have just worn out in about 40 years. Not insurmountable, but something to think about nonetheless.
And you'll have to consider the technology of the time including what safety items you deem important: seat belts? disc brakes? ABS? airbags? traction/stability control? and so on...
If you want something that really has strong parts availability, then that's "enthusiast" level vehicles to some extent as dealer support and event most auto parts stores will not be reliable sources of parts for anything much beyond about 15 years old. Most of the cars supported by a large enthusiast community with lots of available parts are sports cars, muscle cars, or certain trucks - not a lot of run-of-the-mill daily driver type cars. You mentioned a Mustang - that's just about ideal in terms of a an older vehicle with massive parts availability. You could build the entire car, body panels and all, by catalog shopping and picking out what you're interested in.
Just a few things to think about.
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I have a factory CB in my '78 Corvette Pace Car. It was an option that year and was the first year it was available, probably was the height of the CB era.
It works like new, but I never use it. My kids do get a kick out of it, but were disappointed to learn that they can't talk to all of the other cars on the road while we're driving around because these days it's almost only the big rigs that have CBs anymore.
I actually get more people asking about and fascinated with why there is a CB microphone in the car than probably anything else about it.
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Here you go...
This went around online about 3 years ago:
https://www.carscoops.com/2019/10/1959-cadillac-roadster-deville-is-based-on-a-c1-corvette/
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1977 reusable freon 12 tank
in General Discussion
Posted
Well, I was interested and clicked on the ad.
I have a car that uses R12 and has not been converted.
I could have actually used it, but then, sadly, you said that it was empty. It's a neat item but I just have no personal need/use for an empty tank of R12.
Best of luck with your sale and I do hope that you find someone interested in the tank.