ojh

I have the same kind of issues with sidedraft carbs as well, have to choke to start and be quick with opening the choke or it'll rain fuel.

Measure the torque on the ones that don't leak.

I'll guess the Steelhead fishing right now is tougher than normal?

On the Buda H motor, 4cyl 320ish ci, I fill the primer cup and spin the motor over a couple times, refill the cups and reprime, retard the spark and give it full choke & a little throttle and pull up and the thing is running like a brand new Lexus. If it warm I just give it throttle, retard the spark and pull up. Its a sweet running engine them Buda's. It has one of those spring loaded magneto's that builds spring pressure as you cank and releases it all at once in a loud 'SNAP' - 'inertia starter' I think its called. Big as those pistons are you don't forget to retard it after the 1st time, thats a fact.

I use motorcycle shock oil, been happy with 20wt.

How many contact points inside that socket?

I guess getting the police to enforce existing laws and charging those that use the antique tag improperly is out of the question? that its easier to write a new law instead of enforcing an existing one?

Were both sides LH? Some had RH/LH depending on which side of the car/truck you were on.

A local theater had an excellant cast for musicals, it was a very small theater and they'd do the 'Buddy Holley Storey' at this time of the year and it ended with a single spotlight on the airport flight controller trying to raise the pilot. It was a powerful performance. R.I.P.

that thing needs Woodlite headlights in the worst way.

Its all SEP (Somebody Else's Problem)

I know of a Frazer-Nash, a tight little sports car, looks like its from the 70's? One of them?

Another factor to factor into your factoring is the source of the vacuum. The distributors' vacuum source was, originally, the intake manifold and is correct (in a fashion) with your scenario until the government got involved to move the vacuum source from the intake manifold to above the throttleblades in the carburetor to create what is called 'Ported Vacuum'. With ported vacuum at idle you don't have any vacuum and timing is fully retarded to burn the exhaust hotter & lower the CO2. I believe the mandated change was in the mid to late 60's.

It looks like that snout is a seperate piece from the 'flywheel'? The material looks different. I'd make a whole new snout.

I wonder why the lower case, the diminutive of the original is used? And, Yes, Ed is right, it was designed by a committee. What is troubling is that it is shedding its American identity and taking on a 'sophisticated' European look, a 'global' identity. They forgot that GM gave us the Split Window and a 4spd 409 in the same year with style and grace. Now they'll give us transportation modules.

With the air cleaner off and the engine idling look down into the carb with a flashlight, if you see fuel dribbling out the boosters (you shouldn't see any fuel anywhere at idle) then thats your problem. Another clue is if you see vapor curling up out of the carb after shutting the engine off after a brief run time. The float is too high or a little trash in the needle and seat.

Whelp, my tool just isn't right for that.

What I use is a hydraulic 'puller' made from a Harbor Freight hydraulic 'knock out' punch set for electricians. The shank is 3/4" so I cut the head off a 2" fine thread bolt, put in it the lathe to drill & tap to 1/2" fine thread and make 1/2" shafts from grade 8 allthread. For control arm bushings it needs to be quite long, 8" I'd guess. Then you make a fixture to pull the bushing into, the 1/2" shaft passes thru it, thru the control arm bushing and you top it off with a washer the size of the bushing and a nut. Pump the pump and it pull the busting right on thru into the cup fixture. EasyPeasy. You reverse it to pull new bushings back in. I've got all kinds of fixtures I made for mine. Be happy to take some pics of it if you don't understand.

Do you have a picture of the carb? The information is confusing, can you confirm the vehicle?

That one may be 6vdc and you are probably testing it on 12vdc, that'd make it a little extra loud I expect.

I have one of the D6G1 carbs for chrysler, its incomplete, I believe I started to rebuild it years ago and left it unfinished. I'll dig thru the parts and let you know what I have.

Didn't the '32 have a shovel nose?

Speaking of 'whats under the cover', a customer was making a call from a phone booth and across the street, in a used car lot, sat a '63 Split Window. he went straight over there, traded his El Camino and some cash, was driving the Corvette home in a light rain, unfamiliar with the brakes and rear ended a car in Falls Church VA, this was in the early 70's. He had the Corvette towed to his home and put in his garage, he decided to do the repair work himself and started to take it apart. I saw the car about 10 years ago, I tried to lift the car cover to see the interior and it was so rotted it fell apart in my hands. As far as I know it still sits there to this day.

'That carpet really tied the place together, man!' Just puts a smile on your face, don't it.

As a corollary to the slotted screw are the old screwdrivers. They were properly sized for the screw head. There were strict (SAE?) standards they followed for determine the slot size and the old Yankee, Mac and others had properly sized screwdriveres to fit them. I have gathered up a considerable collection of them that I use only in my carburetor shop, when you mess with old screws and have just 1 chance to get it right you'd better have the screwdriver made for that screw.