ojh

Really need to know what car and era you are working with, how original and the voltage, like if you had '40's era car and are changing it to 12v, that'll make quite a difference on materials and technique.

The craftsmanship speaks for itself, post'em up!

Stromberg have a poor needle & seat design, sideways doesn't promote sealing and they'll let fuel dribble past them, take the tops off when they are hot and you can watch it happen without the engine running. Holley 94 would be the better choice.

Pay to drive our classics in the city? it should be the other way around if they could even get us to drive in that mess. Not just London, I wouldn't consider driving in any city. We are meant to enjoy them.

Dang, I missed it! That would've been fun too.

Yes, I read it wrong, I read the Pertronix instructions from their site and thought it said maximum for V-8 motors is 1.5, I just checked and it says minimum 1.5. I'd still get a Pertronix coil. I went thru the same thing on a '67 Caprice, I thought any old coil would do and it worked for about 6 months to leave the people stranded. If you use Pertronix ignition then get Pertronix parts, you use Delco, then get Delco etc

So, you have the wrong coil, the resistance is too great. Get a Pertronix coil with 1.5ohms. How does the Pertronix see voltage at 'Start'? The original ignition switch will not give power to the coil at 'Start', the power would come from a set of contacts on the starter solenoid (it was done this way to bypass the ballast resistor so the ignition would see a full 12vdc). You say the wire from the starter is not connected, so how is it getting voltage to start? I bring this up because problems have a way of being interconnected, I realize it may seem pointless because the car will start. It may be that the ignition switch has been replaced with a GM HEI ignition switch. I'll bet you are using a digital volt-ohm meter to read voltage, they'll mislead you. Find an old analog meter, the kind with a needle, they'll give you the actual voltage.

No, the Pertronix will want a 1.5ohm coil. Did you bypass the ballast resistor? the Pertronix wants full 12v. How did you deal with the wire coming from the starter solenoid? yellow, I believe, how did the Pertronix get connected so it see voltage at 'Start' on the ignition switch?

Does the Pertronix have the right coil? If the coil has the wrong internal resistance the current flow thru the Pertronix module will be too great, always use the Pertronix coil, it'll have their name on it. You say you replaced the coil, are they both Pertronic units? I can't understand how pulling a plug wire the RPM goes up.

You don't have Positive gnd regulator on a Neg gnd system do you?

A McLaren? Who trades in one of them? I crewed an M-8C back in the day.

Sounds like a restriction on the supply side where a new pump will overcome it but it causes early failure in the pump. I'd replace the tank and lines. You say the 'tank looks clean' without conviction, I read a little doubt into it.

Look at the nut securing the seat/inlet assembly inside the float bowl to see if there isn't a crack in it from over tightening.

In a good many years of checking radiator temps the only radiator I ever saw getting more than 25degrees from inlet to outlet was on a 25 Nash, I'd be happy to see 15degrees on a driver, most are barely 10.

Likely won't need shims, you pull one out to tighten the package.

Glad you solved it, I will suggest that when you pull it back apart to replace the seals that you measure the axle freeplay, I think that rear is shimmed between the backing plate and axle bearing, if the axle has too much freeplay it'll clunk and when tightened further as you have done it could briefly preload the axle to mimick proper shims but will loosen itself back up with the Klunk returning unabated. Just a solid push-pull on the axle snout will tell you whats what, I'd expect it to have about .003 freeplay.

You said you pulled the rear hub to check the keyway, you make it sound as if the hub just came off. You had to use a puller and it took a LOT of omph to get the hub off, right?

I've heard that the 10deg delta another mentioned is the minimum acceptable as well, it will allow radiator to recover while on the road - the 10deg is stationary - you sit at traffic light and temps rise but recover when moving.

I think CPP is the source of the Hoffman Group products, be very wary of them.

Easy to understand why it doesn't have the original dash or seat, they had to put the transmission somewhere! thats a hoot, for sure!

With some luck a member at Carlisle will read this and find one up there.

Dunno about the terminals but the copper colored armature frame suggests it is a 'Positive' ground unit, the 'Negative' ground units would be cadmium plated. The 'S' terminal might be for the 'Shunt' winding that is constant voltage from the generator and common to the voltage & current regulators.

They did a great job on it, the paint and everything was done almost 30 years ago, I was criticized for leaving the wheels on it that they used, I felt it disrespectful to 'update' them. Cruising down rt 81 at 100mph, arm on the windowsill, VooDoo Daddy on the sterio, just puts the right kind of smile on your face. It is called 'RubaDub', I sure miss it.

Here's one I redid the mechanicals on, an excellent road car, you just wanted to keep on going.