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ACME Garage

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  1. You Gentlemen may both be right, but remember, Ford stamped this car “So. Vietnam” from the factory and their records and documents support that fact.


    (Maybe I’m wrong, but) I don’t think T5s shipped to Germany were stamped “Germany”, so this tells me it was a special order for Vietnam from the beginning and the Ford documents I have makes me think Ford exported it to Vietnam, not the owner.


    That logic tells me that if it were ordered from a dealer in Deutschland, it would have gone through the normal T5 supply chain and received a normal T5 data plate without a country name stamped into it.


    Kevin Marti’s special letter indicates Ford  knows the car and the VIN and Ford stamped it So Vietnam.


    I know one thing, it’s fun to drive.


    Thanks Guys


    • Like 2
  2. I'm in the process of buying a 1956 Chevrolet Panel.


    I need help decoding the VIN on this old truck and specifically the VIN Tag that only contains 4 digits.


    The VIN Tag appears to be the authentic and never removed stainless steel tag on the upper driver's door pillar, but it only has the first 4 digits stamped into the tag (3B56) which tells me nothing.


    The VIN is 3B56K0020xx




    1.) Does this VIN number decode to be a Panel Truck or is it just a Chevy Truck?  Any other details ?

    2.) Is it normal for the last digits to be missing from the tag ?


    Any help is greatly appreciated.



  3. On 1/28/2019 at 2:38 PM, GregLaR said:

    Interesting background.

    If you come to a dead end, it may help to go this route. RMK-BRJ was a consortium of the largest US construction companies contracted to develop Viet Nam's infrastucture. It is quite likely the owner could have worked for this organization, rather than a paramilitary type contractor who probably would not have had much use for a car in a war zone. You can google this company for more info.

    If that is also a dead end, the only other course I can see is to get a Ouija Board and try reaching Robert McNamara. 😄 

    Good luck with your search.




    Good Hunch Greg,  You nailed it.


    I had a nice conversation with the 2nd owner who knew the first and actually saw the car several times in Vietnam (Saigon and other places) and ended up buying the car and brought it back.  He had several very interesting stories about the car and might possibly have some very old photos.  He's a great guy and knows Mustangs very well.


    Ends up that we (Me and the 2nd owner) are both former US Army Paratroopers.  

    This great man served 2 tours as a Paratrooper during the height of the war.  

    The original owner was a contractor for RMK-BRJ and was based out of Phan Rang Air Base.  He told me one story about seeing the car roll up to Phu Long Bridge North of Saigon along with the 1st Infantry Division in 1968.  Anyway, a very cool story and a very special car.


    Thanks Again






    • Like 4
  4. This will be a long shot I know, but I'm looking for any Mustang photos from 67-69 in South Vietnam.


    I just acquired a 1967 T5 Fastback Mustang.  T5 was the name given to Mustangs specifically built for export.  Ford could not use the term Mustang due to Copyright issues on the name in other countries, so they called them T5s.


    Anyway, the previous owner told me this card was built special order fo Vietnam and was shipped back a few years later (Gov Contractor).  

    I now own the car and it is in survivor condition, unrestored and garage kept and unregistered since 1980.


    It was missing the drivetrain but I just put a 302 / 4-speed and got it running / driving.


    Kevin Marti (Marti Report) validates the car as a real T5 built specifically for Vietnam and actually shipped there from Ford (Not exported by an individual, but by Ford).


    The report states that out of the 5 Mustangs built for export to Vietnam, they all 5 had So Vietnam stamped on the Buck Plate and all 5 were actually shipped to Vietnam, but only one was a Fastback and that is this VIN, so it's a pretty special car to me.


    My question for this post is if anyone has seen photos from Vietnam 67-69 with old Mustangs in the background.


    Again, long shot I know, but it's worth a shot.


    I've only been able to find photos of the 1969 Boss 429 "Lawman" tour which was of a supercharged Boss 429 taken to Vietnam for the troops to see.

    They are online.


    I'm getting close to finding the original owner but until then, I thought I would check here.


    Thanks for any help,



    • Like 4
  5. 1 minute ago, Bleach said:

    The M after F60 means it had a 254 ci flat head 6 cylinder originally. That's why there's no V8 badge on your grille.


    Good to know.

    I was just looking up the VIN decoder and that confirms it.


    It appears to still have the original (4 speed) trans with a huge 2-speed diff, I'm surprised the old Lincoln engine bolted up to the transmission bellhousing.  Maybe the Lincoln y-Block will mate up to all ford transmissions.  Interesting...


    Thanks Again


    • Like 1
  6. 23 minutes ago, Bleach said:

    Not necessarily. There were several engines available in the F600, two which were Lincoln engines in '53. ACME posted some better photos of the carb on another forum and it's a 4 bbl without a governor which leads me to think it's originally from a car.

    ACME, if you post a photo of the data plate, we could figure what engine came in the truck when it was built.



    Ask and ye shall receive !


    Thanks for the info and here is the tag:




    • Like 1
  7. Follow up questions that I'm having a hard time figuring out:


    1.) Brakes

    Are the F600 brakes, rubber lines, wheel cylinders compatible with other ford trucks ?  I'm assuming the old F100 brakes are way too small.


    2.) Clutch (This clutch works - but I would not trust it)

    What other clutches would be compatible ?


    3.) If this truck originally came with a Lincoln motor, would it have a matching vin ?  Did ford do that back in 53 ?


    Thanks for any info




  8. Thanks for the feedback, that makes sense.


    I got it to kick off and run after the basics:

    Plug Wires 



    Dist cap

    New wiring from ignition switch 

    New distributor wiring (Wire going through dist was shorting out)

    New oil and filter

    New battery and battery cables


    Ran good and was pretty smooth after playing with the dist timing.


    Now I have to figure fix the brakes / hoses / etc..



  9. I just acquired a farm truck in relatively good condition.

    1953 F600 Pickup / Flatbed.

    Very cool truck and very original.  All metal is in great condition and very low rust.  Has the nice grille with the teeth !


    Upon opening the hood, it seems to have a Lincoln Y-Block with a 2-bbl carb.

    Although dirty on the top side, the engine is free and turns by hand.


    The oil (dip stick) is very clean, smells good, no dirt or water.

    The carburetor is clean and oily looking (not dirty or dusty).

    When I removed the radiator cap, the radiator is wet and still smells of antifreeze.


    I wouldn't think these old trucks originally came with a Lincoln motor and assume it was replaced at some point.


    The only details I can find from searching on the internet, is that Lincoln made a y-block (368 ci) but I don't know much about them or what years they were made.


    1.) Can anyone identify the engine from the photos below ?


    2.) Are the plugs / wires / points / condenser compatible with anything else that I might be able to find at my local parts store ?


    3.) Are these old engines known to be pretty good ?


    4.) Can anyone identify that carburetor ?  I'll need to know what rebuild kit to buy.


    I'm optimistic that I can get it going, but need to know a few details before I start ordering parts, plugs, points, wires, carburetor kit, etc..


    Thanks in advance,


    Mike Nelson

    Denison, Tx

    ACME Garage














  10. My 57 Caddy has been running good lately.

    I just finished the restoration a few months ago and (in summary) it included a fresh rebuild on the engine and transmission back to stock specs.

    Got it all broke in and it has been starting and running great - no mechanical issues.


    During the restore, I also took my starter to a local (starter / generator / alternator) rebuild shop who is known to have very good quality service.

    Again, no known issues until know.


    I did notice that occasionally, my battery would drain and I would have to jump it off.


    The last time I charged the battery, I disconnected the (- battery cable) and when I did, it sparked like there was an obvious load...even with the key removed and the ignition in the off position.


    Tonight, I went out to my shop and when I connected the negative battery cable, it sparked again and the starter engaged and tried to start.

    After 2-3 additional attempts, the finally stopped and all is ok.


    Any ideas what's going on here ?


    Thanks for any advice.





  11. 50 minutes ago, MarrsCars said:

    Fabulous car! My very first car was a '57 Series 62 sedan with 50k miles back in the late 80's. This really makes me smile, enjoy it my friend!



    I'm liking it more and more every day and it's just a cool car that is not giving me many problems putting back on the road (in a barn since 79).


    Seems like it wants things to go right so I don't give up on her (haha).

    --> I'll be starting to work on something that (from experience) makes me cringe...thinking that I'm about to open a can of worms and then with just a little cleaning...a new bulb or reconnect something that came loose....it WORKS !  I've been very surprised in several cases.


    I've restored a lot of cars and believe me, most project just do not go this easy and require a lot of brand new replacement parts.


    Anyway, Thanks for the post !





  12. 2 minutes ago, C Carl said:

    I seem to remember that 331 Cads (my '49 fastback) , had white letters and also the raised ribs on the valve covers. It has been a very  long time to totally rely on a memory. I rather like the blackwalls , and tire size. Don't let the top get wet. Damp wipe only. Might be a good idea to peel and reapply the vinyl after wire brush and shooting massive amounts of that spray zinc over and into all rusted areas. That might slow or stop the spread until you are ready for surgery.   - Carl 


    I'm thinking about cutting out the rust with high speed cut-off wheel (carefully trying to avoid too much heat or sparks).  I've done this before by outlining the area about 50-60% deep with a cut-off wheel then finishing it off with a pair of metal snips.  Once the rust it gone, make a template with a piece of cardboard then a fresh piece of metal that is about 1/8" overlap.  Then use panel bond to secure the new metal in place.



  13. 4 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

    By looking at the third picture, I would worry about the roof condition. It seems that the vinyl is bubbling seriously. Most probably, there is a lot of rust under that. I understand that you would like to keep the car in its original condition, but sometimes some repair are needed.


     Understood and agreed.

    The roof is in great shape, except for the rear edge where it meets the glass and yes, that needs to be addressed with new metal.

    I am going to try repairing it without ruining the headliner which is MINT.

    May attempt panel bond with new metal

  14. 5 hours ago, Restorer32 said:

    If you want to keep it original you need to paint the Cadillac script on the valve covers blue. They were never painted anything other than engine color.



    It's likely the valve covers were blue since this was originally a dual card 365.  

    Still researching that, but either way, I agree that the script should not be painted.

    It will be corrected.


    Thank You


  15. I found and acquired a 1957 Eldorado Seville about 6 months ago and the engine was seized and missing the intake and carbs.  365 ci with dual carbs.  

    The car was dirty and needed a serious cleaning but was amazingly complete, missing hardly anything.

    I finally got the engine and tranny rebuilt (original) and installed new brakes, gas tank, PS, Water Pump, etc...etc... and broke the engine in last week and did the maiden voyage today.

    The interior is in amazingly great condition and all original.
    Blue leather with blue metallic cloth.

    I'm trying to keep it a survivor since everything is original and mostly all works rather than perform a restoration.  


    Engine Pad: 5762033769
    Passenger Frame Rail: *5762033769*

    Data Plate: 
    Style: 57-623SD7
    Body: F W 7 6 8 
    Trim No: 53 U
    Paint: 94 - 7
    Top: 7

    ACC: E





    • Like 6
  16. I have a 57 Eldorado (365 dual quad) w/ Hydramatic Tranny.  I removed the engine & tranny and had both professionally rebuilt.

    They are ready to go back together and I have safely stored the little shims / spacers that go between the flex plate and torque converter / fluid drive.


    In fact, I put them in such a safe place, I can no longer find them !


    Does anyone know exactly what these little shims are called and where I can locate a set to purchase ?


    Thanks in advance for any help



    Denison, Tx

  17. I have a 57 Caddy Eldorado - Original Motor is the 365 ci with dual quads (Carter WCFB) 2371s 2372s
    The motor is at the machine shop being rebuilt.

    I'm rebuilding the carbs and have been soaking the entire setup (Carbs and intake) in a large vat of Pine Sol & Dawn with a little CLR.

    The solution really cleaned it up and they look great. (Smell good too)

    I started the disassembly by separating the 3 main parts:

    The top separated from the center section pretty easy.

    The problem I am having is removing the base from the center.
    I found and removed 4-5 screws in the bottom of the base, going "up" and securing it to the center section but it still will not separate!  
    I looked for other possible screws or fasteners that could still be holding it together but I see nothing.

    What am I missing ?

    Photos ?

    Thanks in advance for any help.

  18. I just drug a new project home and so far, am very happy with what I have.  

    I do however, have a few questions that I hope someone can help me with.


    1.) Can anyone help me decode the numbers on the data plate ?  


    Engine: 5762033769

    Passenger Frame: *5762033769*


    Data Plate:  

    Style: 57-623SD7

    Body: F W   7 6 8 

    Trim No: 53  U

    Paint: 94 - 7

    Top: 7

    ACC: E


    2.) I was told this car was upgraded "optioned" with the 2x4 carb setup but I have no way to verify this.  The original #'s matching engine is still in the car, but the intake and carbs are missing.


    3.) This car currently has a Black Vinyl Top.  Was this an original option ?


    4.) Where can  find a good Shop / Service Manual ?


    5.) What are a few good sources for parts (57 Caddy) ?

      Gas Tank, Lines, Brakes, Brake Booster & Master Cylinder, Other under hood parts, Center Caps, 


    6.) The trunk opens with the glovebox button as designed but the trunk springs do not hold it up.

    Are the springs replaceable and has anyone else seen this ?  The previous owner rigged up a board to keep it open but I'd like to fix it right.


    7.) If I can get the motor "unstuck" I'll have it rebuilt, otherwise, I need to find a replacement 365 or 390 near the Dallas, Tx area.

    Any ideas where to source one ?


    Thanks for any information in advance !


    Mike Nelson

    Denison, Tx











  19. post-60725-143142602702_thumb.jpgStarted to work on the car a little this weekend and need some help on flathead technology :)

    I was told by previous owner that it has a stuck valve. I changed the plugs and noticed that one of the plugs was not burned....only kinda oily. This was the cylinder that he marked as having a stuck valve.

    After changing the plugs, and priming it with some gas, starting it with a +12v battery, I was able to eventually get it to run (although very rough) for about 6 seconds before I shut it off. It usually just tries to start but instead backfires through the carb.

    Question 1 :

    I'm guessing the only thing for me to do at this point is make room on the passenger side engine bay to remove the head and see if I can free the valve (if that's what the problem is). it might make sense to remove both heads and do a good cleaning and reinstall new gaskets, etc...

    Thoughts ? Anything else I can try to free the valve ?

    Question 2:

    How can I get the Hydraulic Windows to go back up until I can get the engine and hydraulic system functioning again ? Is there anyway I can do this manually for the time being ?

    The hydraulic system looks like it's all still connected and the hoses look like they are still in decent shape, but I can't test it yet and just need the windows up.





  20. Additional questions I have for those that are familiar with these lead sleds:

    1.) Is it easy to find rebuild kits for the GM Hydramatic 4-Speed Transmission / Torque Converter ?

    2.) I've heard that speed / performance parts for the big 337 Flathead are hard to find, but what about basic rebuild kits for the engine ?

    3.) What are the details on the rear differential & axles for the 49 Lincoln ? (Any info like ratio, gear parts, make/model, etc..)

    4.) Is there a source for the water pumps in case it needs one or both ?

    5.) Is it common to upgrade the electrical system to +12 v Neg ground or is it better to keep it original +6v Pos ground ?

    6.) Is there a good source for the hydraulic windows and seat parts ? (All parts seem to be there and still be intact...just preparing for parts that need replaced)

    7.) Are there rebuild kits available for the original carburetor ?

    8.) How reliable and safe was this front suspension setup with the coils ? It's appears to be a better design than the straight axle, but is it hard to find rebuild kits and bushings ?

    Thanks in advance


    Denison, Tx

  21. Just acquired a 1949 Lincoln Cosmopolitan.

    I'm looking for any feedback or information on the VIn/Data tag below.

    I've been restoring old trucks and 70's Mopars for the last 20 years and I don't know much (really anything) about the 49 Lincolns, but I'm researching it now.

    This car appears to be original top to bottom and front to back, with the exception of the interior. Someone reupholstered it about 20 years ago with black vinyl, but looks good.

    All trim is still on the car and complete - undamaged or dented.

    Interior is complete and in great shape. (Door panels in trunk and only good to be used as a template).

    Still has Hydraulic Power Seat and Windows. (Have not tested)

    Electrical system: Still 6 Volt positive ground - wiring looks crusty but was told everything still works.

    Has original 337 Flathead, 4 sp GM Hydramatic Tranny, original front coil suspension, etc... Was told it has a stuck valve but before I bought it, I poured some gas down it's throat and fired it up. It ran for as long as it had fresh gas and sounded good.

    The previous owner placed a GM 2bbl carb on it (backwards) to get it running, but it came with the original carb and breather.

    Was last registered and inspected in 2009.

    The car appears to have originally been some shade of Green from the factory because it's easily visible underneath the door panels, etc.., and the current paint looks like it was just sprayed over it sometime about 20-30 years ago.

    When I get it in my shop and cleaned up, I'll post a few details and pics.

    ----> Any help with the data below would be greatly appreciated.

    Data & VIN Plate Info.

    Original Lincoln VIN Tag:

    VIN: 9EH624xx

    Branch No: DET

    Trim: L40- <- hard to read

    Paint: X-129

    Body Tag:

    Style: 9H-74

    Body No.: 15200




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