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Everything posted by 2carb40

  1. Hey Paul Confirmed the ID on the switch. 1941 Buick all models #1995016. The clean one is nos the other is a used switch I pulled out of a 1941 Super I parted. Sorry it took awhile, but I like 2 B sure! Thanx 4 UR patience! Greg
  2. This car must have had a longg history of leaking engine oil b4 they put the "new" 1951 320" in. Pix show what I took off just the transmission and crossmember( didnt get it all yet)! Drained and refilled diff and trans. Nice 3.9 gears!
  3. Yes the 264 front pulley will go on 322, but like the flywheel they have different balancing to accommodate different size internals. The early prod 322" &factory 264 had cast crank pulleys. The "after" jobs or replacement parts were harmonic balancers. 1953 is easy. No timing mark wether balancer or cast pulley. Mixing incorrectly balanced parts is not recommended even if they will "go on"! The cast crank pulleys I've seen have a part number cast in to verify application.
  4. Hey Peter The fog light brackets for your car are '41Buick only. Pm if interested. I have the dash switch, brackets and 6-11\16" round lights which are also correct, not just the ones seen that are square with rounded corners. Still working to come up with replacement shafts for rear carb dampers.
  5. Two photos of my friends 1950 Super convert We lucked out and found a 1952 Super 2dr ht with first year power steering absolutely complete, which was good bez all of the controls mounted on the column are in slightly different locations. The size of the power steering sector is huge, so the column shaft above it is shorter and components are closer to the firewall(shift linkage, electrical switches) all designed differently to accommodate the power steering. The power steering sector has the same part listing in the parts book up to 1955, but the lengths of the column sharfts are different depending on model. This is the only straight eight original ps system Ive ever seen, so it was lucky everything was there and nothing missing. He really likes the upgrade, especially cuz it was a bolt for bolt retrofit to install!
  6. Hey Mike Give a call if you like. I have complete assys.
  7. Couple thoughts. Trans gears need to stop (or nearly so)rotating going from 2nd to 1st gear,(not syncronized) clutch may not be disengaging completely, bad pilot bearing can keep trans shaft spinning with engine even with clutch pushed all in and completely disengaging. Lube in trans spec at 80-90 I believe. Syn lubes(low viscosity) could let the trans keep spinning longer and maybe be noisier(less sound damping?) These are just some SWAGS, (scientific wild ass guesses). Hope that gives some tasty food 4 thought! Check idle rpm, might be sticky or adjusted a little higher than needed.
  8. You still have yours? Photos of worn bushing and fabricated one for clutch pedal. Imagine only 79 years of use. Nothin lasts! Is 37" measured from outlet to inlet or on the larger diamerter of the "body" of the muffler? Surprisingly the muffler looks pretty good. Have to clean surface rust off nos brackets I got from Dave and silver POR15 should make em pretty. Everyone knows ya gotta have pretty muffler brackets!
  9. Working towards 1st test drive after a pile o work on this car! Weather has been forbidding 4 toooo long. Wow 2day! New front wheel bearings packed and new wheel cylinders installed. Master stainless lined and kit install Brake and Equip Wharehouse here in the big Bossapolis, MN bushings in pedals redone, rebuilt rear shocks and links. New rear brakes and wheel cylinders and brk lines up to front of driveshaft. Fuel tank done by Tank Renew with new sender. New fuel line to pump from sender. Four NOS 1941 Cent.exhaust hangers from the ever effervescent Mr. T. ---Dave, that is! Thanx! Anybody know what the correct length of the giant anaconda muffler sposed to be? Hafta strip out the ex and broken hangers. Next drain and inspect differential and trans fluid. Anxious to see how she pulls in flight with the 320 and dual carbs! Silver POR15 on outside of fuel tank.
  10. Great! Welcome, Im doin a 55 Cent, so if I can B of resistance, oh wait! Assistance, feel free to contact. Greg
  11. What he said! Vacuum sucks dont it? Some smarties call that negative presure. Litrally, not figuratively speaking!
  12. The engine can only use as much fuel/air mixture as developed vacuum will allow. You could stand on the gas pedal of my 58 Pont with stock tri-power at low rpm and it was a pig. At about 35 mph the engine rpms were high enuff to provide enuff vacuum to handle the full throttle position better and acceration was then much more impressive.
  13. I think I will be replacing brass shafts with steel, either fabbed from bulk stock if unavailble nos or hopefully nos findable. Anyrate they have to be dead straight or they bind in the bushings. Cant hone the bushings causing vacuum leaks. Hmm...I guess they will just have to meet design specs. Ok, Ill do em that way! Vacuum control is A/F metering w/o a computor. SU carbs yeah. Quadrajet(vacuum secondaries) wish I knew how to post a link to the youtube video Peter and I have seen of the rear carb damper in action! Buick engineers(Charles Chayne), I think he's to blame for developing the system. Might have even been the for runner of the vacuum secondary carb,(oh, that'll never work)! Keeping that damper moving freely, Im guessing, is not an easy prospect, but prolley doable with some difficult inspection, like grabbing the counter weight and making sure its not stuck by trying to turn it by hand every once in awhile! Just a SWAG(scientific wild axe guess).
  14. Hey Peter Glad to hear you got some relief from the troubles that happened. Just a thought on the smoking. There is an oil flow restricting fitting in the line leading to the rocker arm shaft, if the fittings have the larger hole it will over supply oil to the rocker arms causing pooling, which can leak around valve stems to cylinders, leading to smoking out the ex pipe. Just a thought that might be worth checking.
  15. This was a thread started about 1941 dampers not your rearends. Anybody able to post about induction on 41s?
  16. Thanks for the input! I'm doing some of that on my 41 Century along with a .040 head mill to give a higher CR, which is a cheap power adder on these engines over stock. Mine came with the later insert bearing engine with hydraulic lifters. Can't wait to drive it, but still working on rear brakes and shock replacements and dodging MN weather outbreaks! Arrrrgh!
  17. I've been refurbishing my dampers that sit under rear carb trying to find a pat solution that would solve it every time. Different issues showed up while disassembling. Consistant was a slightly bent/tweaked shaft, possibly from being dropped and hitting on the round weight causing the bend. The bushings, at least in the early production units, are steel with brass shaft. All the steel bushings had surface rust inside on the ones I disassembled making them tighter with less clearance. I found some small diameter round steel brushes to put in my drill and the inside of the bushings cleaned up nicely. Most were also "coked up" from carbon, also restricting movement. I soaked them in Evapo-Rust for 24 hrs and more and that took surface rust from butterfly parts and cleaned the diecast/pot metal base as well. I used Scotchbrite on the brass shafts and steel wool on the steel shafts, but it's readily apparent with the undercutting on some of the shafts where they contacted bushing surfaces that some had seen long service and had been working. I've contacted someone who says they have a couple NOS shafts,and so I'm hopeful I can get those with worn shafts from high mileage use and bent shafts to "flop" loosely, which is, IMHO, the only way to have consistently good operation from this valve. I also posted under prewar other info that might be of interest. Other solutions/input on this part solicited please.
  18. Later models evolved with a thermostatically controlled switch that stops it from opening till engine warms sufficiantly to accept the extra mixture. There also appears to be an update designed to help avoid having the counter weight hang up and not close from full open. Merely a pin used as a stop to limit travel to a bit less than full open.
  19. Did some cleaning/refurbishing today of the dampers used under rear carb on dual carb systems. Interesting find. Three different metals used for butterfly shaft. Looks as though Buick started with brass then WWII started and I found two with steel shafts and one strangely enuff with a copper shaft. Maybe visible in photo.
  20. Just thought Id share these photos. Whoever came up with trim for 41 sure had an artistic bent!
  21. Shipping is crazy these daze. You need to indicate where U R. Headlite clips? Look at a Chevvy site. No ones gonna want 2 remove those package them, drive to the post office, then get .95 for them! Just sayin!
  22. Please send Private Message if interested in a nice 1956 4brl intake, reasonable(IMHO)!