1project2many

Please delete

Always a great feeling to fire up an old engine. And doubly so if it hasn't run in years. Congratulations (even though I didn't help!)

I found a solution to my seal issue which is acceptable to me. I'm updating this thread in case someone wants to use or improve on it. I took a chance and trimmed the Dodge seal above so I could press it into the retainer groove in the roof. The Dodge part tried to lock in place but it was no surprise that it didn't lock the fabric like it should. While considering options to supplement the seal including adhesive, a friend suggested a round filler for the remaining gap which seemed like a great idea. It turns out that 7/32" vacuum hose is a very good fit and during installation it acts as a locking strip and tightening tool at the same time. By pulling the fabric snug while pressing the seal in and finishing up by wedging the rubber hose I ended up with very tight roof. In fact, the cat volunteered to test it one night and judging by the footprints I'd say it supported her and a friend with no ill effects. I hacked up the photo to try and show how the seal was trimmed and where the vacuum hose is placed. If I can locate one of the end pieces of the modified seal I'll get a picture with vacuum hose in place and later today or tomorrow I'll pull the car out and snap a photo of the completed roof. There are a few places where I'm going to add some urethane or other adhesive to help the seal stay in place but overall this is a done deal.

No worries. It was an honest offer. Now you have a little more info to use when selling the seal. Thanks. I've been given the name of a company which might have samples of the 36 Ford seal to check out.

Ok, just to be clear, do you have a Dodge or Plymouth weatherstrip? In the photo, Dodge is on the left and Plymouth is on the right. Thanks.

Wait a minute... You have a Plymouth seal and it won't fit your Dodge? I have a Dodge seal and it won't fit my Plymouth. Is it as easy as a trade? Did I just fall into an episode of Sesame Street?

Jim, more good tips. I was looking at actual manufacturers' sites, not distributors. I might not mind sharing some of the cost with a distributor selling rubber or restoration parts. But if they're going to pass the large majority to me then it makes more sense to cover the whole cost and sell unneeded lengths to offset the price. Even if it takes yeras. I've heard Steve's tale of having the Dodge seals made so I'm not real excited about going that route yet. I have a friend with a '36 4dr he's hoping to repair although I'd bet he's more likely to install a steel insert than pitch in for the rubber seal. But I'm going to speak with him today and I'll pitch it just in case. ply33, I'll check with Karr. Thanks for the suggestion. Will post results here. The pdf attachment looks to be the same as what's in my reproduction 34-36 Plymouth maintenance manual. If so there's no accompanying illustration. My seal was all one piece but it was glued at the corners as the manual says to do. hwellens, where did you buy your kit? Even if this doesn't get too far, I appreciate all the help. Shannen

I figured I'd have the "Wedge-tight" part. I'll try calling Restoration Specialties to let them know I'm interested. Maybe it will help convince them to make more. I spent about an hour looking at pages from companies marketing extruded rubber seals. Mainly I was looking for round or D shaped pieces that might work. I didn't have much luck as most of the online pages didn't have any cross sections to view. I do have a guy I can call who has piles and piles of old, old stock stuff around so I haven't given up hope yet but we all know what the odds are of finding anything still good after this many years. I'd almost be afraid to ask a mfgr about a ordering a custom extrusion but who knows, something may come about. In the meantime I'll be working on a creative solution using something more commonly available. I'm going to look at aftermarket windshield rubber with a Tee shape. Maybe using that with a nylon cord to lock everything into place will produce good results. Shannen

Jim, thank you for the detailed reply. I happen to have Steve's very last seal here in my hands. Drove to his house to pick it up, even. He dug around until he found one which was too short for a 4 dr car but happened to be the same length as mine. It's a very different seal. I believe the answer is that the Dodge roof is metal and the Plymouth roof is still fabric as read in another thread on this forum. The picture attached shows Steve's seal (on left) and the original Plymouth seal. Is the wedge-tight at all similar to the Plymouth seal? Any chance you have an old part no? I have a few contacts that have lots of NOS "stuff" with no way to ID it. Of course if I find any it's not likely to be much good unless it's been locked in a Nitrogen filled vault but who knows. Jack M, thanks for the link to Steele rubber. I was hoping it was for a specific page or product as I've been through their '36 Plymouth section as well as a couple years on either side with no luck. Any chance you've got a part number as I don't have enough experience with vehicles this old to know what else might fit. Thanks, Shannen

Thanks. I can't seem to find a listing for this in the Steele online information. I have found a couple of Ford seals listed but there are no illustrations. Still searching.

I'm replacing the fabric roof on my '36 P2 2door sedan. I've purchased a rubber seal from a gentleman who spent a fair amount of money having some made "exactly like original." Unfortunately after getting back to my car and pulling out the OEM seal, the replacement I purchased is nothing like it. I'm stuck. Can anyone offer some suggestions for a replacement seal? I can try and cut the seal to get a cross section picture if needed. Thanks in advance.

What have folks used for this? The part which came out has a small lip to seal against the window opening when rolled up. So far having difficulty finding a similar replacement. Seal looks similar to 220.006 in this image: http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page7.jpg. Anyone have a source in the US?

How different is the '37 from '36? The shock/ sway bar links in my '36 P2 were very similar in function to modern sway bar end links. In fact, I "skipped" the period correct bushings and bought links for a 1994 Cavalier to install. The Cavalier kit uses 3/8" bolts instead of 5/16" studs and the plating is wrong, but function took priority over form in this case.

Found the Ebay manuals. Real, printed books just like I was looking for. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks. Splice and solder will be no problem. Just need to find some friction tape to make it look better. Shrink tubing could be applied before the friction tape to make a better repair without giving away any secrets.