Hupp36

Ron I am curious, for what reason are you pulling the wheel?

The nut is a right hand thread. Lefty loosen, righty tighty. After removing the nut that holds the wheel on, spray some penertrating oil around the main shaft. Yes you will need a wheel puller. Use a split type that goes around the steering wheel colum and slides up under the steering wheel. DO NOT pull on any part of the bakelight sterring wheel as it will crack or brake. Straddle the center of the wheel and turn the wheel pullers center bolt to the right aiming it at the center of the shaft that holds the steering wheel on. Increase the tension on the screw in steps. Tap the center bolt on the steering puller after each time you increase the tension. I can not tell you how much tension to apply to the center bolt as I have never measured it. I guess its a sense of feel. Good Luck

Well the tour was a great time . We had from 1911 model 20 to a 1941 Skylark which was the last model produced. 2 dead batteries, 1 stuck float in carb, 1 rock with a hole in oil pan. All cars were up and running at the end of the tour. 23 Hupps 76 Huppers and looking foward to the Reno meet in 2011. Dean H hope to finally meet you and your lady and your Hupp. I could not get a pic of all the cars in 1 place, so here is a few.

Just 10 days away from getting together with old frends and making new ones. This will be my 8th tour, well realy the 7th because in 2003 our truck, trailer, and 1936 Hupp were stolden in Michigan City Ind. Got it back a week later with only a door handle broken on the Hupp and the steering colum on the truck. Bailed it out for $ 750 cash and have been on 3 tours since. If you happen to be around Portsmouth N.H. from the 11th to the 16th you may see from the 1st 1909 Model 20 to th last 1941 Skylark.

Who would have thought that in 1921 the Premler Model 6-d would have a push button shift. See Pic

Tom On ebay #220626663455 is a 1930 Model S with the correct bumperetts. You can see the front is the same as the back.

Tom here is the pic I told you about. Chuck

Yes, the serial # started with the Model # N-5039. This is the Serial # for my 1936-621-N. The motor # also started with the model # The H Model was a 125 in. wheel base and some list the ci as 361. The Model U is 368 ci and 133Hp and some not all had special bodies, like Barker,LaBaron and Fleetwood. They would carry the body makers insignia. The standard Hupp body would have the serial # on a plate ,on the firewall. And No to the transmissions, they were Warner but different models. Chuck

The Model L Hupp is a small 8 cyl. 2 and 7/8 in. bore x 4 and 3/4 stroke 90 Hp. The L is the model of the car, produced 1931-1932. The Model C is slightly larger 8cyl 3 in x 4 and 3/4 stroke 100 Hp. The C is the model of the car produced 1930-1932 The Model F -222, the first 2 after the F means year of car,1932 and the 22 is the cars wheel base, 122 in 250.7 CI 93 HP. The model I -226 is a 1932 I with a 126 in wheel base, 279.9 CI 103 HP. The Model H and U had Hupps largest 8 cyl 3 and 1/2 in. bore 368 CI 133 Hp. Both cars were produced 1930-1932 This engine and the Hupp Comet finished 5 th at Indianapolis Race These Models are all 8 cyl cars. I hope this helps and I am not an expert on Hupps but I will do till you find one.Chuck

If you really want to find more about this car, join the Hupmobile club and give the serial # of the car to a tec advisor who will tell you all about this model. No bull, just facts.

I realy hate to rain on your parade, but when they started using these stickers on cars they would not have used a circle H as an insignia. Its great to sell somthing, but know what you are selling.

Could you please post the serial# of the S model?

If you have an old car or truck with any value, do not park it in the back yard by a pine tree.

Darien this may get you going, my 23 3 dr sedan.

Dorien How about a pic of you car. Any updates?

The shorter lever is the spark advance & retard. The longer lever is the throttle. If you have had it running and the oil pressure reads ZERO, DO NOT run the engine again before you check to see if the oil pump is primed. I have a 1924 Model R sedan that if it sets for some time without being started it looses the prime on the oil pump. Comming out of the side of the oil pan there is a 3/8 copper line running up to the rear of the engine by the distributer. Look for a plug with a square head that takes a 1/4 in. open end wench. Remove the plug and fill with engine oil to the top and reinstall the plug. You should have oil pressure now when you start the engine. As far as checking the oil level, on the passenger side of the engine you will see a metal rod about 1/8 in in dia. It looks like is sticking out of the top of the oil pan very close to engine block. Behind it there is a scale. The rod is attached to a cork float in the engine pan and where the rod stops at the highest point is the oil level. Now here is the problem, the cork float with time soaks up the oil and its hard to read. The best way to fix this problem is to drain out the oil and service it with 5 qts. of oil. Then check to see how far the rod comes up on the scale and mark it as Full. If there is more than 5 qts. of oil in a Model R, it will run like crap and smoke like you know what. I will be home in April and can send you some pic. to show you if you still have a problem.

Unless I counted wrong, from your first post until now, it has been 15 months. I would say that you are progressing rather well. As my mother would say " the proof is in the pudding". It looks great. Since my last post on this sight I have acquired a 1923 Willys Knight 3 dr sedan. It was in like new condition when I bought it. It took 6 years to do that.

1931 Willys Knight Model 95

Looking good, at the rate you're progressing you will be ready for the New Hampshire Hupp tour. July 11 to the 16th. The tour follows the coast line so it's relatively flat with no steep grades. It will be nice and warm and the club weather person has ordered good weather. We also have an ice cream break daily. Huppers love ice cream. We would certainly enjoy having you join us. The N.H.Hupp Nutt.

Just thought I would let you know that Richard has very successfully started the Willys Knight and it runs like a clock. For those of you that are not familiar with the W/K, they have a sleeve valve engine that the more you run it the less oil it will burn.

Can you believe the US post office. It took 10 days for a letter to get from FL to Texas. No wonder this USA is going to H---- in a handbasket, but with all her faults she is sill the greatest country in this world.

I sent you an email, I think it will help you.

I think someone misunderstood what I said. The car in question is an OVERLAND . My car is a Willys Knight. Made by the same company,but a different car altogether. I am sorry for the confusion.

I believe this is a 1923 Overland Model 91 ( Champion ) It was only produced in 1923 because of litigation by the Champion spark plug company. Note that it is also a 3 door and originally had landau irons. Willys Knight also made a 3 door coupe sedan. The car in the pic is my 1923 W/K 3 door coupe sedan.

Hi Skip Got the Headlight today. Its In great shape, a little cleaning & paint and good as new. Thank you Chuck