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Backyardmechanic

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Everything posted by Backyardmechanic

  1. You will need a pocket type screw driver after looseing the screw with plyers. Or u can use a angle type screw driver.
  2. This is call blow by.I belive the rings Has no life left or the cylinders are waren. The only true fix will be a bore job with new pistons an d rings.
  3. Better double check every thing else while your at it
  4. The impeller that you are showing is for the 1925 this impeller was used from 1914 to 1926 then in '26 theyused the open fin type with more material on the face of the cover.By the way this impeller isn't interchange with the later pump.
  5. Well read this post with great interest.Dough If I were you I,d just keep the safty glass in the car I know what the pro is thinking BUT it could save ones live or face if there were a crash invold.Oh yes on my DA the wingnuts are stright also. Vern
  6. FMF: Look on the right side rear of engine there's a nut that holds the cooper line to a strap just before the bent of the line to the oil gage. remove the nut and strap there's a stud with a slot for a screw driver remove this stud there's the hole that is in the oiler tube that lubs the engine bearings. Vern
  7. What do you consider "with in spec."? How about cylinder tapper?WOW 1/16 =.0625 seems a lot wonder how it ran with out a lot of valve tappit noice.What did you set the valves cold at? Vern
  8. Here is a site shows the lost form casting. backyardmetalcasting.com Vern
  9. Hello, We are in need for engine parts for a 1931 plymonth 4 cly. engine.Oil pan,valve cover pans,intake/exh.maniford water pump.Whta do you have? Vern romardb@zoominternet.net
  10. I would hate to try to restore anything from 1980 on as NOS parts would be far an inbetween.As most if not all dealerships sent all there overstock back to the parts depoles for credit or they do not stock many parts ever try to get a trim peice the same day u go there to buy .We are told It'll be here in a few days Vern.
  11. Good Reading: About 10 years ago we got a call from a friend that had a 4 cylinder Dodge Brothers engine that he had just taken off a water pump service wanted to know if I was interenst of course I was. So he loaded it on his pick up and deliverd it.This engine is complete with mag ingnition and crank for starting, no holes drilled to mount a waterpump nor is there a hole for the gear houseing that the water pump bolts too. The flywheel is set up as a heavy pully. Vern
  12. We have many use exclutcheons foe $5.00 each. vern 888-827-7601
  13. We should have them in stock. also bushings too. ROMAR at 888-827-7601 Vern
  14. We have repair lots of vacuumme tanks the shut off valve on the bottom of the tanks didn't have any packing the orginials valves has a tapper shaft with a hole in center and spring on the other side from the lever to keep tention on the shaft so when the valve is at close no gas can seep thew. You must have a different type of valve. Vern.
  15. KlC: On our '37 the grill and trunk emblem says Dodge Brothers with the star of David.But you may be correct on manuals I do have a 1937 parts list that just says Dodge Passenger Car Parts List only. Vern.
  16. I will bet that someone in the past rebuilt this pump install a new bushing BUT didn't drill out the bushing for the oil to lub the shaft. Vern.
  17. As A Ruel add .006 to the hot settig this should get the engine running then check after warm up. Vern
  18. Mark after looking at all the videos nice job.The only thing I can see that would be a point off with the Ply.club judgeing is the small hose from water pump to therm.houseing should be painted engine color.The waterpump was install with hose then painted along with the engine. Vern
  19. Speaking from experience from doing these engines.I also agree.But there's more involded then just rebabbit the rods. the crank shaft needs to be "o"tollance in order for the babbitt job to be done right.So the crankshaft needs to come out and "true up" (Reground). One needs to fine the cause before it can be corrected also. Vern.
  20. Dave When I installed the electric fuel pump just before makeing the trip to MI meet for a back up unit I just ran the lines to the mechanical pump.With the togon switch off, the mechanical pump pull fuel thu the electric pump with no problem. On tour at Gettysburg the 3rd day going back to motel we had problem with the fuel, switch on the electric pump didn't do any good.Tom Myers came along with there 28 standard 6 with a tow strap pull us back to the motel parking lot. Another mumber had a 5 gal gas can I went next door to a gas sation fill the can with gas went back But the we could only put 2 gal of gas in the tank (full).after running the electric pump with line disconected at the mechanical pump no fuel at the mach.pump end.Disconeted the line at the electric pump blow thu line to the mach.pump line is open,by pass the elect.pump, connected the line to the mach. pump start the engine been running well ever since. Will have to take a look the system before June for the run to Moline meet. May sent out a pump to Tom Hanerford (Then and Now) for rebuilt for a spair. Vern
  21. Dough, Reading all your post with interest,I remember you stateing that the pully moved slow.Could it be that the pin was out of the pully and it was slipping on the shaft.When you install that new fan belt tighten the belt so the fan mover nomal, then when you started to drive the car the pullyand fan moved forward into the rad.? Just a thought. Vern
  22. hwess, I had a electric inthe 37 just in case.hook it up with a togen switch BUT when i was haveing problems at gettysburg i found out there was blockage at electric pump.After bypassing the electric pump hav en't had anyother problems "So far"with the fuel systemBUT I have had two flat tires (split seam in tubes) I'm running Coker radials and tubes to match. We have use then and now kits with out any problems so far. Vern
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