CTX-SLPR
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Posts posted by CTX-SLPR
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Holy Smokes is the shipping expensive! $196 for all for cards and nail strips. $120 in shipping to CA! I think I'm going to make my own cards! The nail strips are more reasonable at $122 for the set and $19 shipping.
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I have a '64 to start with but yes, I'm using the 4x10in speaker outlet except I found that if you are very careful you can use 4x10in speakers designed for Toyotas and sandwich them together in the opening
I'd already pulled them off of the dash but you can see the four bolt pattern that holds them on. I did have to file the mounting ears a bit to get them to actually bolt on.
I'm running a Painless 7 Circutboss with four switched and three constants on the defroster duct that handle the main items inside the cabin (there's another in the trunk for the stereo and fuel pump) and a switched one like yours from CE on top of the floor vent housing for the power seats (swapped from a 98 CL600) since it can handle 30A vs. the Painless can only handle 20A max.
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The page numbers are links to the page with the parts. www.corvair.com
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Door Cards, they come raw pressed board and you pull your panels apart for the metal and trim (and maybe upholstry if you're going that far) parts. Pg 20
Per my cheat sheet printed shopping cart:
63-65 Riviera Door Cardboard (LF or RT) R188 Pg 20
63-65 Riviera 1/4 Panel Cardboard (LF or RT) R189 Pg 20
63-65 Nail Strip Set 2-Ft DRS & PASS R226 Pg 20
They also list assembled door panels on Pg 20 (R238) for a '64 with wood. Based on what Ray said that might not still be as complete.
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2 hours ago, RIVNIK said:
Better get on it! Clark's is not what it used to be. They have discontinued many of their Riviera parts, & probably aren't restocking items when they sell out. They used to carry everything I need. Unfortunately I put off buying many items, assuming they would be available when needed. One item in particular which really saddened me was the '65 console PRND12 lens, which they used to carry, but are now apparently made from unobtainium. I called them some time ago & they were unable or unwilling to provide me with their source. Sadly all good things eventually come to an end.
Good to know. I might need to jump on that before I'm doing yet more custom work on the car, this time because parts I had planned on had dried up...
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Clarks Corvair as most of the part's you'll need to rebuild a door card. The card, nail strips, wood kits, etc.
I've not purchased any of those items from them but am very happy with everything else I have bought from Clarks interior wise and am planning on using their stuff when I redo my door panels in the next year or so.
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I have a set of H4 conversions for T3 bulbs I bought years ago (like 2005). They work great but I don't think the company that makes them is in business anymore.
Wagner makes bolt in Halogen conversions for T3 bulbs (H5006 for the high/low and H5001 for just high) but like Mr. Tom T. points out, to get brighter you really need to get relays to pull from the battery directly and not put all the power through the switch.
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The terminals have a bad habit of backing out of the connector for the headlights. Check to make sure it's all the way down on the pin on the switch. Once I get the dash back in my '64 I can check as I also have a NAPA switch in mine but last I remember it was fully functional.
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Howdy,
Been a bit since I've been over here but still plucking away at my '64 T-type restromod. Since I'm adding a bunch of things that need switches that weren't there originally I've picked up a pair of '63 HVAC panels. One is complete with all the arms in good shape and some of the cables still attached. The other has a broken lever but most of the levers are still functional. Since I need to cut the back end of one of them off so it'll clear the speaker and the suplimental fuse box I have on the defroster duct I thought I'd offer them up if anyone needs a good one or has one more busted up (I only need from the trim plate with the switches and slides in it forward) that they'd want to trade. Feel bad cutting up good parts but sometime this month I hope to start putting the interior back together which means modifying that panel.
Thanks
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Went ahead and bought two cans of the CARS spray green since it was basically the same cost as a single can of brush on and I needed door switch boots anyway. We'll see how it turns out but since I'm painting a currently black engine its not like it'll have to match anything.
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Howdy,
I have to pull the Turbo6 in the Franken-Riv to replace the rear main seal and have decided the black engine just gets lost in the black engine bay so I’m going Buick Green on the block and heads, “cast” aluminum on the intake, and black on the stamped/welded brackets.
Big question is how to put the paint on? Of course I’m going to wire wheel and scrub the crap out of the outside of the engine to prep it but should I paint it with a foam brush out of a can or spray it with a rattle can? Planing on going with the CARS paint, just which one.
Thanks
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Looks like the 60-62 Eldorado had a 4 prong switch. I emailed Gord to see if he can rebuild them with more contacts. Otherwise I’ll look into putting a diode network on the back of a Clarks type single terminal switch.
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My current switches are shot and if there is a drop in replacement (the switch mechanism itself looks to have spots for 4 contacts) with the needed terminal why add two separate switches in addition to the replacement stockers.
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Howdy,
does anyone know if there is a 4 prong version of the 3 prong door switches in the 64-65 Rivieras? Need another ground point for a the seat back lock on the Acura seats I added.
Thanks
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Thanks! I traced it to the breaker but didn’t check which side it was on.
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Howdy,
Is the power seat supply wire fused? Don’t see it on the diagram or on the box.
Thanks
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He means reverse rotation so that it's driven by the smooth side of the belt like most modern vehicles are to avoid getting enough belt wrap on the pulley on the grooved side with the idlers in that homebrewed setup.
Wish I'd written down the folks the advertised in the Good Guys rag I was reading at the barber this weekend, they had a nailhead serpentine setup and it wasn't March or Alan Grove I don't think.
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All the silicone stuff I've found is too thick to go through the firewall block. I've thought about having a custom block 3D printed in carbon fiber reinforced ABS and pressing in stainless steel pipes and using the thicker silicone stuff on both sides. We'll see if I do that or try out O'rielly Gates 1/8in ID, 7/64in OD rubber hose. Either way I'm going to see if I can't rig a fixture up with a paint pen to stripe them. Worst case I'll just spot them like above.
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Howdy y'all,
I'll update the floor pan repair thread tomorrow when I can get pictures during daylight hours but it's pretty much done and now it's time to start putting things back together. I want to refresh my vacuum hoses as they are all too short, brittle, or elsewise not in nice shape anymore. Does anyone have a preferred source for hoses or do y'all just hit Autozone/Oriellys and get it there? I'm considering striping them to match the colors in the manual but tagging the ends with tape is holding up fine so that's a nice to have vs. I'll for sure be doing it.
Thanks
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For what it's worth I put a 96 Impala SS (Same as all 94-96 B-bodies if not longer) master on my stock drums and it made a huge different on the way the car stopped even with the original soft hoses. I also cut the pedal up to change the ratio but that mainly changes the engagement distance. The stock drums grabbed hard, locking up everything if you got too aggressive with it, something even a fully bled stocker would never come close to doing. I do believe the stock drums are up to the task if you get the rest of the system in good shape.
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Did they keep the Double Cardan CV joints in the shaft or is it just U-joints on the ends?
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Pictures please?
I need to redo mine so I'd like to see how yours were redone if only as a bad example.
Thanks
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Howdy,
Does Mr. G's interior fastener kit include the fasteners for the body drain plugs? I can't find the pair I pulled when I redid the passengers side floor pan.
Thanks
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On 2/11/2019 at 12:45 PM, telriv said:
ALSO check the inner rocker boxes & the front seat bracing.
Agreed. The ends of the under floor bracing just loves to collect dirt and water and rust them out from the inside. Almost finished rebuilding mine due to the same issue.
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Jamco Front and Rear Disc Conversion on 1965
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by CTX-SLPR (see edit history)
The Rotors are the same for a 80's "Squarebody" Heavy Half ton. The lighter trucks had a different setup. I got mine through Tirerack but Rock Auto also has a solid selection of rotors.
Edit: Oops saw the main bit this thread is pretty old. Hopefully the tip on the rotors works out for someone who runs across this.