CTX-SLPR
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Posts posted by CTX-SLPR
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Recieved, email works great. That tail section is worse that I was looking for right now. However the floor pans are definately interesting to me. I don't know how much you want to hack up the car but I really need both sides from around 4in in front of the front seat mounts to the same behind the rear seat mounts all the way to the tunnel. I also need the floor braces underneith the floor and the attached section of the inner rockers if you feel you can get them out cleanly otherwise its mainly the floor pans I'm after. I could also use the front section of the passengers floorboard at the base of the kick panel (will show you a picture to see where specifically) and if you have it the shifter gate with the true 3spd shift pattern since I have a later trans.
Thanks,
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Thanks for the heads up.
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What kind of shape are the floorpans in around the front seat mounts?
Rear section of the car, tail panel and about 18in forward in good shape?
Thanks,
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Those look like Caprice wheels and what is left of the interior is '65. Wonder if they changed the core support to gain the headlight pickup points for the earlier lights?
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Well I am planning on going with an AirRide shockwave system eventually but I don't plan on driving it in the "down" position. Right now I have the way overchopped front springs that came on the car that will go back on it to replace the H2 '65 Gran Sport springs currently on the front because the thing has close to the ground clearance of my 99 Z71 right now with the empty V6 in the nose. I like wide tires and would love to get a set of 18x8 or 17x8in wheels under the front with like a 1.5-2in drop from stock in the nose but I'm not cutting anything up to do it. I passed on the wheels anyway but its good to know.
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I have a set of the OPG kits for mid 60's Skylarks on my '64 Riviera. Work great but are a bit tricky to aim so they are effective and don't blind people since they have a rather defined cutoff line. They are H4 style bulbs and housings that replace T3 bulbs.
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I would think it would actually be easier to take the 64 body off and put the 63 body on the 64 frame rather than messing with trying to switch the drivetrains between the cars due to different driveshafts, crossmembers and other things. The innerfenders on my '64 still have all the Dynaflow mounting pads just not drilled but I know the frame does not have the transmission crossmember holes. I think you should rebuild the original trans and use it since the car is orginal and you have no intention of majorly hopping it up.
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Howdy,
I've found a set of 17in wheels locally for cheap that I think are 17x8 as per the manufactures website and the size of tires currently mounted. Would they fit under the front end of a '64 Riviera if I kept them at 3-3/8in backspacing?
Thanks,
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I spent around 3 days playing with mine and ended up paying someone to fix all of it and it was a $250 well spent because they worked far far and away better than I could get them and took far less time than I had spent. Sorry I can't help but this is one thing where I, the avid DIY type of person, drop back and punted on. I'll be watching to see if any good ideas come out.
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I used aluminum pop rivits on my '64 to put new fuzzies on it. Not original but it works extermly well if you position the rivits so they don't catch on anything. However its not original, you have to drill holes in the trim, and you can see them if you look hard enough.
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Thermostat housing is below the fill level on the nailhead. You pull the housing or the hose and it'll gush coolant till the level equalizes.
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Not 100% on this but the "biscuit" mount I've seen on 64-67 cars in identical configurations. I'd be fairly confident that they are the same.
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I modified a TA system, well they helped me since they lied to me about fitting with stock manifolds, and it fits great for the most part. However I did change lots of things to make it fit better or differently. I used Hooker S-pipes with the flanges cut off to replace the under floorpans muffler locations then cut the tailpipes up and put Magnaflow mufflers back there. The headpipes are a tight fit but mine is probably the only one in the country like this due to the fact that I bought it for manifolds and they just changed the catelog after I told them it didn't fit so they didn't have to have 2 different headpipe designs.
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I am using the later "small" register drum brake hubs out off of a '67 Wildcat. They use the same BR3 and BR5 combo as either spindle.
My current stock steel wheels, which I do believe are 3 3/8in offset, barely kiss the frame with the current "metric" stock tires. They are also only around 0.50in from hitting the front of the wheel opening. My plan is to use tires of the same overall diameter as the stockers then as wide as I can get under the fenders with all the additional width going to the outside so my backspacing would remain around 3 3/8-1/2in. The caliper clearance shouldn't be an issue with the C5 brakes but the Tundra calipers might require a spacer to get the spokes to clear the 4 piston calipers. The 13.4in rotors require 18in wheels "generaly" while the 12.8in can use 17in wheels. I'm planning a set of 18in American Racing Hopsters with custom backspacing in the 5x5in bolt pattern.
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I think we have managed to confuse each other here. I am sticking with either the Early or Late X-frame Riviera spindles in thier original rear steer configuration. Simular to the Scarebird kit I am going to be making caliper mounting brackets/plates to put either C5 Corvette or 07+ Toyota Tundra calipers. The question is can I put the Late spindles on the Early car without adversly affecting the suspension geometry. I am away on training right now so I can't go measuring everything I'd like.
Thanks,
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I'm not going to cut up the frame at this point to remove the stock Riviera front suspension and put in a Corvette front end without a second frame to work on and then I'd be adding the whole C5 A4 torque tube setup. I'd need new upper and lower arms to use a set of front steer spindles and I have a suspicion that the sway bar would interfere with the rack location. Right now the interference with the Turbo6 packaging is the UCA cross shafts with the AC compressor on the drivers side and the Kenne Bell headers didn't fit with the passengers side so I swapped to a stock style set of Postons and they fit fine. The centerlink has a mild interference with the cross over pipe but thats not going to be hard to fix as I'm running external gates and was going to remake the cross over anyway. The oil pan to centerlink was an issue but I've rengineered it fit including the baffle.
Right now I am looking to see if the change in spindles and steering knuckles will work as I have spare sets of both the 63-65 and the 66-70 spindles and knuckles available, just don't want to mock something up on the easier to use late spindles when they won't work on the vehicle bumpsteer wise especially.
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Brakes rotors are smaller than I'd like so I'm looking at either the 12.8in or 13.4in Corvette rotors redrilled to the 5x5in bolt pattern that the B-body Impala SS guys have had made used with the 65-70 drum brake hubs and the symetric 66-70 Riviera spindles though I could in a pinch use the 64 spindles.
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Howdy,
I'm building my own disk brake kit and its far easier to do off of the symetric '66+ spindles. I know the ball joints interchange but will the rest of the steering system work or am I headed into new territory?
Related question, the Riview articles I've seen have mentioned suspension improvments for the later 60's Rivs. How did they improve the front end geometry?
Thanks,
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Very Cool info Tex. I have mounted a drivers remote mirror on my passengers side and it is useless as well as the wing window pillar blocks any real view of it and I think the dealer likely did what I did which was make a template off of the drivers door and drill the door skin in the same spot then drill the door panel for the remote joystick using a simular template. I just use mine for the passenger to have a view to check the lane for me if I'm on the highway.
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Tex, please do tell more about that aftermarket air setup you have and the passengers side mirror.
Thanks,
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Howdy,
I've been an off and on ROA member for almost 6yrs now, mainly coinciding with when I own a Riviera or not. I currently have a white on white '64 Riviera with most of the available options. I bought the car from Colorado back in 2006 with some rust repair and a primer fender with 89k miles. By my count its missing a vacuum trunk release, dual quads, cruise control, guide-matic headlights, wood wheel, 4 note horn, or the pop up rear armrest. It does however have power vents, a posi, and the deluxe interior. I took it on 2/3rd of Hot Rod Power Tour 2006 with basically adding a CD player, fixing my seized AC clutch, and some sound deadening. I took it the whole way on Power Tour 2007 but it blew a waterpump and seized a carrier bearing despite my efforts to get it in better shape by rebuilding the front suspension, adding a TA 2.5in exhaust system (the only one they made to work with stock manifolds after much hounding on my part), Dave's Smallbody HEI and a coolant overflow. After this the engine was just plain tired and had lost most compression on #1 and it was time for a rebuild.....
Nope, not a rebuild. I've been building a 4.1L Buick Turbo6 for 5yrs in my garage with lots of custom and quality stuff on it and you guessed it, its going in the '64. The engine has a full forged rotating assembly courtesy of Eagle, K1, and Diamond. Full roller valve train courtesy of Comp and T&D. The engine wears Champion ported 8445 heads and is topped by (for now) a stock intake but will be getting a Champion ported intake. The tricky stuff of getting it to fit in the space a Nailhead once lived involved running Poston steel headers, cutting an ear off of the accessory bracket, and cutting down a '64 LeSabre 300 oil pan to clear the steering linkage. Paul Ferry at HR Partsnstuff made me some custom motor mounts to get it attached to the frame and I built my own crossmember out of some form of Chevy truck crossmember scavenged from the junkyard and plate steel. Oh I guess I should mention that the transmission is a '67 Wildcat BT code SP400.
Now to run all of this I'm experimenting with the L67 supercharged 3800 V6 ECM and harness and I'm currently in the middle of fitting the harness and plumbing into the car in hopes of being able to drive it in March.
Whew.... but better to tell it all at once than string it out in pieces.
See ya'll at the GS Nats or BPG next year if you don't make Power Tour 2009
65 Riviera parts for sale
in Buick Riviera
Posted
At this point I'm trying to make progress where I can. I think I made a mistake in buying Classic Fabrication floor patch panels for the car and I really don't feel confortable in leaving the floor the way it is. Will keep looking for parts.