SwiftBuicks

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About SwiftBuicks

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    '89 Riviera
  • Birthday 03/17/1950
  1. Does anyone know where I can find one on-line?
  2. Apparently you have not caught up with the modern generation. I have done a lot of reading on this. What started me off on the subject was a talk with a guy who flushed a '69 Cougar 351cc with 230+ miles against a lot of negative advice. However, many do suggest dropping the oil pan after a flush.
  3. Has anyone ever used an engine flush product?
  4. If the outside temps are moderate, you can run your vehicle on plain water. I've been working on old cars for 40 years and used a chemical flush for the first time this time around. The directions specify running the engine for a short time with it in and then washing it out quickly. I did see a difference in the color of the waste water, but my engines seem rather clean. However, that gunk is not what you want in your system. Make sure you are careful when using a hose and a running engine. Wear a short sleeve shirt and keep a close eye on the fans. As to more on this drama of mine, man vs. machine Arnold style, I bought the Bar's No Leak/Lube stuff with the pellets. Has anyone else used this? I put a bottle in my toyota 4-runnner along with new glycol. Now I have to drive it to mix it all. As to worrying about Freeze Plugs, the '89 Riv lost one two years ago. It cost me $1,100. to replace the old with new. The engine had to be taken out of the car as this particular plug was inaccessible.
  5. Thanks for the replies. I have been wondering about Bar's Leaks product as an additive. I'm using the Walmart standard anti-freeze so the Leak product should help. I have the LeSabre up to snuff now. I can't see how doing an extra drain or two of the radiator would not help. In the case of the LeSabre, it wasn't costly, took little actual time and has rid the system of most of the old questionable coolant. Now, I'm working on the Riviera. I put in the flush this morning with water. This will be the second drain when it cools down. The mfg.'er recommends replacing the flush waste with water, then running the system for 20 minutes. The radiator core was rusted. I'm curious to see the fluid that drains after a flush here. The other radiator cores weren't rusted. By the way, there's still a bad whine coming from the Riviera belts and wheels. I am going to look at the water pump when I can. The water pump for the Toyota was o.k. I also wonder if the AC Delco tensioner wheel that I bought in June hasn't broken down already. The belt is fine. The alternator is new. Is there anyway to pinpoint a noise like that?
  6. First of all, I want to thank you all for posting here. Second, I already own a good hydrometer. I posted this question thinking that I didn't want to add 100% without some kind of reassurance. This was what led me to change the coolant. It was passable, but given that two years has elapsed since the last change, I decided to do a thorough job of it. Realize that we are in a mathematical progression here. The books stated that my engine, (I have a Riv so I was curious if they put it in the Reattas) the 3.8 liter, has a 13 Quart capacity. We'll assume that the radiator holds half of that. If you drain the radiator and then refill with water, run it, then go through the same process, you will never obtain a pure water solution. I've drained mine 4 times, I believe, and seen at least 13 quarts come out of it. The water drained hasn't ceased to look green, but the hydrometer gives me a zero reading. Now, here's the math, 13/2=6.5. However, I really saw only 5 or so quarts come out. to make it look simple you divided by 2 every time, but one should realize that isn't precise. I have 13-5 or 8 quarts of solution to start (erring on the side of caution). Then you dilute the solution once more by mixing it with pure. For matters of simplicity lets say you dilute by 1/2 each time. So assuming you have a 50/50 start, the second mix is 25/75, the third is 12.5% glycol, while the fourth is 6.75%. At this point I am going to add my new anti-freeze. If half of the solution is 100% and half is 6.75%, then the result will be under 70%. However, if you have a 25/75 mix added to a 100%, what will you have? Finally, and most importantly, one the Toyota 4-runner which I changed, ran a chemical flush, ran a water/baking soda mix and then drained and filled with 50/50, I'm seeing fluid leak plentifully through what I think is the water pump. I will change the pump, but I was wondering if the flush had anything to do with pushing it over the edge.
  7. Since my 3.8 engine hasn't had a change of coolant in over two years when the odometer turned 100,000 recently, I decided to do a thorough job of it. I used the shuttlecock on the radiator and drained as much coolant as I could. That constituted about 6 quarts. Then I filled the radiator to it's limit with water and a few table spoons of Baking Soda (an old farmer told me that helps clean the system and I have done that on most of my cars). The recommended procedure would be running the car and heater with the plain water mix for a few days, drain it and then fill with 50/50. However, I have decided to try and flush the system thoroughly, so I ran it with the mixture for about 15 miles and then drained it. I was surprised at how thick it was with anti-freeze. Consequently I repeated the procedure of filling it with plain water and baking soda then driving it. Now, I am waiting for the engine to cool down before I drain the plain water out. I suspect that the waste water will still have anti-freeze in it. However, I am skeptical that if I add the glycol mix filling the radiator, I won't have a proper ratio given that the engine must hold more than 6 quarts or the radiator fill. I saw in a manual that the capacity is roughly 11 quarts. Should I add pure anti-freeze instead of a mix? I am also planning on using a Flush as directed on it's container. That says drain the anti-freeze then add the Flush and fill with water. After that you run the engine with heater for 20 minutes. Then they say drain the radiator, fill it with plain water, run it for another 20 minutes and then drain. I followed this procedure with another vehicle but wonder if I have the right ratio of glycol in that engine given that I added 50/50.
  8. Thanks for the replies. I have been warned about transaxle trouble due to the heat in Florida. Last spring I took my car back from Florida to Ma. because a shop had told me that leaving it for six months was destroying my A.C. compressor and possibly doing the same to the Trainee. However, the Riviera sat in an airplane hanger for 5 years down there and the trainee runs well now. Nevertheless, the fluid I changed was black and could pass for motor oil. It had been changed when the Transaxle was rebuilt, but that was before the storage time and quite a bit of driving miles.
  9. To end this mono-thread, I completed the fluid and filter change with the LeSabre. This exhaused me at 62 years. I am of the opinion that this is a maintenance job which isn't performed enough on old cars. How many of you Reatta owners have made sure their trainee has new fluid and a filter after 100K miles?
  10. Update: long story, but now it's down to a low volume high pitched tone. The belt conditioner has been more trouble than it was worth. They state that you shouldn't use it when the belt is "energized". I took the belt off and inspected it. I can see no wrong.
  11. I picked up a can at AutoZone and will use it today. Since I live on Cape Cod, there's quite a bit of humidity in the air most of the time. This could be behind the noise. I'll see today. I used to use a can of belt dressing (I don't remember the mfg'er) that my Dad used to use in his laundrymat business. It worked, but I ran out of it.
  12. The Riv is finished. I added the new fluid and a Slick 50 high mileage treatment and did some driving. Using a torque wrench helped, I think, although it was a half inch drive and really wasn't calibrated finely enough for an exact reading. The guy who installed the cork gasket before me did not do a good job, but it did work. He had tightened the bolts down too much on one side. This seemed to create an effect where the bolts on the opposite side loosened, and the transaxle was leaking slowly. It really wasn't enough to be noticeable. Now, I have to watch for leaks with the new gasket. Prep work for the Le Sabre starts today. What a lousy job it is!!!!
  13. I took it for another test drive after it was squealing at idle in the driveway. Once again the noise went away after regular driving. I'm going to try and buy some belt conditioner. It has worked for me in the past. I do hope I can find it in an autoparts store, but I'm going to look on-line. If that doesn't work, it will be a new belt.
  14. A few years ago I had a '94 Century Wagon which saw it's transaxle breakdown. A local fellow who specialized in trainees rebuilt it for a serious piece of change. I no longer own this vehicle. However, since my '95 LeSabre turned 100,000 on the odometer and the Riviera will be turning 185,000 soon, I decided to change the transaxle fluids and filters on both vehicles. This is a project to which I do not look forward, but I see it as a good preventative measure given my experience with the 140,000 Century. I have done the job before and did spend some time picking the brains of the guy who rebuilt my Century. The Century was owned by a motel and convention center here on Cape Cod and used as a taxi so I figured it had gotten extraordinary use and no fluid change. The Riviera has already seen the transaxle rebuilt, but that was before it went through Hurricanes Jeanne and Francis with submersion in sea water and then 5 years of storage in a Florida airport hanger. I am really happy I have not had any trouble with the trainee since reviving it. Any comments here would be welcome. The Le Sabre transaxle is a different one than the Riviera. I was wondering if the Reatta's had one or the other models.
  15. Let me continue this thread with the news that I had to replace the original Alternator (185,000 miles) soon after the wheel on the belt tensioner. Both were obviously bad. Now, things run right except that there is a slight squeal when running at low speeds or idle after the machine has warmed up. This noise disappears when I accelerate into normal highway driving.