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Everything posted by 1910Hupp

  1. Thanks David I think I'm fine for the firewall linkages I'm just not sure how much the previous owner modified the linkage from the firewall to the carburettor to accommodate the Holly NH . Karl
  2. Hi -I like Phil have just received my rebuilt Breeze back from Stan Howe . What a fantastic job! I am just cleaning up the inlet manifold and truing up the faces that join onto the block . I would be most appreciative if some one could post some pictures of the original linkages for the Breeze so I can reverse engineer them -Thanks Karl
  3. Phil I brought it from Dianne probably 4 year or 5 years ago Not sure how long she had it for before I brought it Karl
  4. As promised attached are Photos of mine. Looks really good as far as I can see will need the inlet ports resurfaced to make flat . Will need a need a threaded plug made for the base. The lugs that the clamps attach to will need to be filed smooth. Interesting if you look closely at the outside (as mounted) surface there are a series of filled holes I wonder if this relates some how to the casting method ?
  5. Looks good I'm tempted to have a spare cast for my car! I suspect looking at the patterns that these patterns were used to cast mine as the " H I" casting mark is in the exact same place as mine . If you want I can post some photos of mine tomorrow -Karl
  6. Hi Andrew Originally there were no gaskets and little rings sat inside a lip in the manifold which matched a lip in the block and every thing bolted up nicely. When I got my car it has some asbestosis type gasket on the exhaust which worked fine and a roughly cut modern manifold gasket on the inlet. Performance improved dramatically when I discovered and fixed the huge inlet leak on the front block !. I was going to use copper crush gaskets but in the end just found a manifold gasket with the correct id and cut some gaskets for the inlet. Don't use Silicone gasket maker on the inlet as most of these are dissolved by gas vapour eventually. -Karl
  7. Thanks Phil -I have patterns to cast the exhaust manifold if any one requires one of these as well -Karl
  8. It might be mine as he is doing mine currently as well -Karl
  9. Actually I didn't do it -Was done by the previous owner and since it works well, is going to be very difficult to reverse engineer and is pretty much undetectable I have left it as is. The conversion did have to be certified by an inspector in New Zealand to check it had been done correctly. Max- its interesting where people sit on originality I'm ok with modificatons that don't show especially those that improve safety and drivability. Others would say that everything should be as it come out of the factory -unfortunately driving conditions have changed somewhat since then and I like to drive my cars lots . I guess thats why you put the Simms magneto on one of your cars. Personally I wouldn't do that because it wouldn't look original -although probably goes much better -However I don't think either of us are Hotrodders-if we are we are bloody stupid ones - who would have a 16.9hp Hot rod !-Karl
  10. Max I have hydraulic brakes on mine . The shoes and wheel cylinders are Mk 1 Ford Escort and fit perfectly . The master cylinder hangs off the R chassis rail and is completly hidden with the floor boards in . All the Linkages work like the should do and the only clue is a small section of brake line over the diff . Linings are bonded composite material .Will stop on a dime and any speed I could get to-Karl
  11. Mark C1-4 up on flywheel in line with mark on front of cylinder block Number 1 at TDC and both valves on number 1 closed sounds right to me -Karl
  12. I have modified mine so that it does have variable timing. More because my magneto is a later DU4 with adjustable timing and the previous owner had just fixed it where he thought it was best and I wasn't convinced he had it right. I now have it right and I admit I don't touch the adjustment at all -so effectively run with fixed timing. My experience is advancing the timing does very little for performance on my car -perhaps a 10% increase in top speed only. Karl
  13. Sorry Max perhaps next year I'll get there -Am in Cairns at the end of September for a week with friends. I was hoping to go via Gympie and meet Edgar but I think Gympie is still a long way from Cairns!-Karl
  14. Interesting Max -What does the " H I" cast on some cylinder blocks and components pertain to? Karl
  15. I guess the question is were are they all now?
  16. Man would you believe it first of all they quote 20 hp and only really deliver 16.9 HP and then they chop 15% more off for us colonials ~ ! LOL
  17. I suspect the size difference is just perspective ie the carb on the right is closer than mine on the left. Certainly the carburettor bolts up to the inlet manifold with everything lining up perfectly. Also if my carburettor was much bigger it wouldn't fit on the manifold as the bottom intake would foul on the J portion of the manifold
  18. Stan Howe sent me this photo of mine (On the left) and Phil's Breeze Carbs in his shop for rebuilding. Not surprisingly he feels that he won't have two Breezes in his shop at the same time again in a hurry. Interestingly enough they look slightly different- so must have changed slightly throughout production -Karl
  19. Hopefully Dianne will come through with a contact allowing use of the patterns used on the one I brought. I've never seen any Hupmobile 20 bits at any swap meet I have ever attended -Would buy just about any original Model 20 Part I could get -Karl
  20. You can't get one (as far as I know) but you can carve one out of a forged billet -which almost certainly will be stronger than a cast crank. Cost is going to be more than $350 but even at this price the cast crank is going to need machining before use which will add to its final cost. Karl
  21. Phil I've spoken to one of my friends who is an engine reconditioner and his advice is not to purchase a cast crank . Therefore I don't think I will go with it . Given this I will skip the expense of a 1/2 the world away international call to Mr Greene-Karl
  22. Thanks Phil I will talk to the seller and try and find out more about the cranks. I just have to work out the time difference between New Zealand and him so I don't ring him in the middle of the night ! -Karl
  23. Thanks -Hmm the cast bit puts me off a little. Harold Sharon's advice was not to touch a cast crankshaft - I'll consider a bit further -Karl
  24. I'm certainly interested -however don't have the magazine could someone please give me contact details of the supplier Thanks Karl
  25. The drive shaft on my mag has two key slots to allow adjustment of the timing. However recently I had some problems with the nut undoing on the end of the shaft (probably because the magneto and hence shaft was originally clockwise rotation and converted to anticlockwise - meaning the drive shaft nut wants to unwind all the time). My friend who is a motor bike engineer (and does design consulting working for Ducati) rebuilt it for me . Interestingly he tells me that if the taper is right on the shaft then no key is required and the gear will not slip -friction holding it in place . We re-tapered the shaft but still keyed the gear. Karl
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