1910Hupp

David I think probably it is due to the petcock upstands being slightly longer than they should be. I looked at them when I pulled the engine apart and even posted some pictures here The consensus was they where ok and I was to scared to shorten them up as the car is running so well now. The oil is only a minor nuisance really. The compression is really good I'd be very surprised if the rings need doing. Karl

Roger As a Kiwi myself I think the are talking about journeys more like what you did in Aussie. Distances in excess of 1000 miles spread over a large number of days. My Hup has travelled from Auckland to Taupo a few times. I take it on Veteran runs locally a few times a year and they are normally 80 to 100 miles long. I have had my car 5 years and am only now reaching the point where I would be happy to take it on a long tour. The only mechanical parts of it that hasn't had major work on it in the last 5 years is the rear end and radiator . Unfortunately despite being self employed I just don't have the ability to take a week or two off work and go touring with my car. However I will do precisely this in Jan 2016 when I go to the Vero Rally in Dunedin but will take my 1930 Model A for that -Karl

My Great Grandfather had a model 32 . It served him well. Unfortunately he was not a great driver and this was compounded by his Irish affinity for whiskey. On one well lubricated trip home he drifted slightly off course and knocked down two shop verrnada posts fully collapsing the shop verranda. The Hup was apparrently unscathed!! The dangers did not cease when he arrived home as he had an unfortunate habit of forgetting to apply the brakes when he entered his garage to park the car. After replacing the garage rear wall a few times my long suffering grandfather and his brothers solved the problem by installing a crumple zone of empty gas cans at the rear of the garage -Gas cans being easier to replace than garage walls ! Karl

I get a little seepage from the front bearing but only enough to leave a fine linear spray on the inside of the hood. Magneto leakage has never been a problem. My issue is lots of oil the spews out the breather pipes and runs down the side of the crankcase -Karl

I agree with David - I think the Hupp is a 1/2 generation behind the equivalent year T. The Hupp is pretty and fun to drive but lacks the solid reliability of the T and that poses some concerns re serious touring . I consider the Hupp to be equivalent in performance and reliability to a Ford Model N or R . I would not hesitate to tour anywhere in my 1913 Model T but am a little reluctant to tour much in the Hupp -Karl

Unfortunately the noise as above continues despite the addition of thrust washers!. However this afternoon I found the cause of the problem . In the gearbox Nothing loose Nothing broken but a reverse idler gear that is adjusted too far in . Hence not clearing the gear it meshs with (in reverse) completely in neutral Resulting in intermitent contact and the noise. Phew will fix it tomorrow -Karl

Problem solved no better with a clean of the magneto . So after a round of cursing I decided to start from scratch again With the car running I shorted out each plug in turn . This time the miss disappeared when I shorted out number 2 So I swapped plugs on 1 and 2 and lo and behold the miss was now on number one. Bad Plug !! My wife came running to the garage scared I had hurt myself when she heard my shout of delight:rolleyes: Changed the plug and we are running fine again. The plug itself looks fine but obviously a fault in it somewhere-Karl

The fun continues ! I installed the Breeze and could not get the car to run The only way I could get it started was to pour gas down the priming cups -Then I got it running but not well and only for 30 seconds or so. Lots of popping through the front of the carb like it was starving When it popped fuel vapour squirted out the base of the carb . In the end i replaced the Breeze with the Holley NH my car came with Now starts but still pops and misses. Drivable but not fun . So far have cleaned all the plugs . changed the gas to fresh gas Stripped the carb and blown it out with no real improvement . I have checked the timing and i'm sure it is right . I've also checked for an inlet manifold leak . The miss doesn't seem to be in one cylinder I suspect it is the magneto and started to attack that last night (it worked fine when I removed it 4 weeks ago but has sat on the bench for the last 4 weeks ) I found some oil deposits on the inside of distributor plate -which won't help. I plan to clean this off check the point gap and reinstall . Once I've got it running right I will try the Breeze again Karl

I found the thread size for the manifold carb adjustment screw. Its now 10NF24 which is the size of the tap I put through it ! Andrew I made my mate do the tail end while I rocked the flywheel back and forth. It was his idea, he suggested to me that a butcher could live with a missing finger- in fact he had already shortened one up but a Doctor (his doctor) might struggle with one missing. I didn't argue ! Karl

Hi this weekend I installed the Hupp engine which I had been dreading The last two attempts had taken 5 hours each and had resulted in me conceding defeat. Well this time was a breeze (no pun intended as I have installed the original Breeze ) . What I hadn't realised previously was that the torque tube when disconnected from the engine moves off to one side making alignment impossible. By chocking and moving one rear wheel only we centralised the torque tube and then we used a thin piece of wire to hold the U joint male part level and it just clicked in. Phew . I have taken the opportunity to install the new manifold and Breeze carb. Can someone tell me the thread size the holds the carb throttle stop adjustment screw in the manifold Thanks Karl

Well Thrust washer machined and installed . engine back at home and finally ready to install it this weekend. While I had every thing out again I decided to install the original inlet manifold and Breeze carburettor . The first problem was that the inlet manifold actually sits much prouder than the old manifold did So I either had to modify the manifold clamps or make a new set. It would be nice to switch between the manifolds and carburettor sets if required with out having to modify the clamps each time so I machined a new set of clamps. Then I found that the DU4 in the car has a slightly longer snout on the points cap for the earth wire take off than normal. The result was the snout was to long to allow the magneto to install - So this required re machining shorter but now good to go - Karl

Well thus is going to rock your socks. I took the engine to a shop as I didn't have a press and was reluctant to pull the clutch apart without one . I gave then a copy of previous threads on the clutch so they had something to show them what it should look like, The report is bearings ok and nothing obviously loose but , and wait for this , no bronze thrust washers , No fibre washer either. When the car was restored by the previous owner none were obviously ever installed. So there is considerable crankshaft end play and the theory is this might be causing the noise as the crankshaft pings against something. Interesting to say the least-Karl

Thanks Ken That was my diagnosis as well I've pulled the engine this morning (I find it the easiest way to get at everything) Over the next week or so I'll pull the clutch to bits. The only thing I hate is putting the engine back in -Lining up the U joint ,The reverse change shaft and clearing the bottom lip on the gearbox over the gearbox mount all at the same time is the ultimate pain! Karl

Looks ok to me . Mine looks identical and I know its right as it bolts up perfectly to my inlet manifold -Karl

Try looking at this - Something sure is loose in there !

Ok Gurus Developed a problem with the Hupp . Yesterday I took it for a run and noticed clutch engagement was a little violent and there was a slight knock in the back of the engine/transmission. Initially I thought was the magneto drive but when I engaged the clutch 1/2 way got a rattling sound almost like a ball bearing rattling round in a can. I'll try and record it today and then I'll pull the engine again -Any thoughts

For those Model 20 owners who wish to obtain the unobtainable -Karl http://www.ebay.com/itm/191451930189?item=191451930189&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:SS:SS:US:1120&vxp=mtr

Not only easier but financially a much better investment to restore to original. They never seem to learn ! Eventually he will end up selling it to some new owner and he will misrepresent it as a correctly restored original car. If he keeps starting it like that he is going to get a broken wrist (despite Hupmobile's advertising that the Model 20 was safe for a child to crank) which will probably be his motivation to sell it ! Karl

I found this on You tube I'm not sure I agree with the chassis colour scheme and certainly wouldn't start any stem winder like that but there is definitely something wrong with the engine sound. Some thing is whining or rubbing and I can't work out what. Any ideas -Karl

I used red fibre gaskets and some silicon goop on the threads. Seemed to work well. I grounded the magneto switch to one of the engine transmission bolts . Karl

Hi Who won the auction for the pair of model 20 jugs , 4 pistons and rods plus a complete side plate and camshaft ? Unfortunately I was the under bidder but did get some ancillaries like a steering box, Crank handle and top water pipe . Good luck to the successful bidder I hope it gets another Hup back on the road -Karl

When I first got my Hup I was slightly disappointed with its performance I never thought it would be a rocket ship but it appeared quite sluggish. The previous owner had noted this as well but thought the timing was slightly off but couldn't seem to adjust it any better than what he had. One day I was playing around in the shed and tried shorting out the plugs Shorting out 1 or 2 seemed to make little difference to how the car ran Shorting out 1 and 2 together also made no difference. Shorting out 3 or 4 caused a drop in rpm Shorting out 3 and 4 stopped the engine. Contemplating this I wondered about an inlet manifold leak on the front pair. With the engine running I squirted raw gas round the cylinder inlet -The engine took off like it was on the back straight of Le Mans -Repaired the leak and MUCH better performance from that point on -Karl

Edgar I did get a tradesman to do it -However your instructions saved the day. He initially tried sooting the journals before pouring but couldn't get adequate clearance so he did it again with your instructions and achieved a perfect result. He has a specialist business restoring veteran and vintage engines form all round the world and has been doing this successfully for many years but was very impressed with your newspaper trick -Karl

Phil The camshaft side plate is very different from mine - To change the camshaft gear on my car the camshaft bearings have to be melted out and then redone once the new gear is inserted. It looks like form your photos that you can change the gear without doing any of this -That would be nice ! -Karl