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Everything posted by 1910Hupp

  1. No Advanced as in early ignition is spark before (or closer to)TDC and retarded as in late ignition is spark after (or further away from) TDC . In the recent Thread "Timing the Model 20" Max talks about setting the ignition by turning the flywheel back by 3/8 of inch from TDC which will set the timing advanced by 2.7 degrees but of course this is the opposite of what the book says -Karl
  2. The book does talk about the advanced timing- the point is that setting it up as they suggest does not give advanced timing but slightly retarded. (Only slightly as 3/8 of an inch is not many degrees on the flywheel ) . I suspect the person who wrote the book was the same person who labelled the 16.9 HP engine as 20 HP!! In the end it doesn't matter if it runs fine when set up by the book that's great if it doesn't then you just adjust it till it does. Karl
  3. David this confuses me the first mark on the front of the cylinder block is TDC ( I confirmed this with the engine apart) So if you set the timing to the mark to the right of this (given the flywheel turns this way) then you are setting the timing retarded after TDC not advanced! Am I right or am I deluded ?? Karl
  4. Easy to get the gears milled. If Phil posts the Diametrical pitch and number of teeth etc it might be fun to try and mill one up on my lathe . I have all the gear to do gear cutting but haven't had a crack yet -Karl
  5. I've never used a baffle and the oil leak is minimal -Perhaps a drop under the cover at the end of long run (given the oil leaks from the breather overflow this is tiny in comparison) I do have the the lip seal in the front of the gear cover . Taking the magneto out to set it up on a bench is fine but it's very easy to knock the mag drive installing it and upset everything again. The lip seal also bears on the magneto drive shaft meaning even a slight knock to the gear cover may move the driveshaft and upset the timing. I set mine up on the bench and then use Andreas nail polish to mark the correct posiion of the drive wheel to make sure it stays correct -Still normally end up doing it a few times to get it right -Karl
  6. Phil When the distributor rotor is on segment number one and the points are just about to open is the point you want . Surprisingly although it sounds easy it always seems a little difficult to determine the exact position where the points are just about to open. When you find this point you are meant to mesh the magneto drive to the camshaft drive with the flywheel lined up with the second mark and the timing is set . You can put a timing light on the lead to Number one and power it with a 12 v car battery. Just like normal it will pulse when number one fires off which might help you as well -Karl
  7. Phil the first mark is TDC and the second mark is 3/8 to the right of the first mark and is the allignment mark. So if you line up with this 2nd mark (as per the manual) you are setting the timing retarded after TDC . I firmly believe with fixed ignition that this must be wrong. I do set my ignition like this but have fitted variable ignition and I set it retarded on this position and run with the ignition timing advanced from this position.-Karl
  8. Thanks Jon The Hup doesn't have atmospheric inlets and appears to have good compression on all pots. It only seems to happen at full throttle . Having said that I haven' touched it for the last few days as I'm laid up with a slipped disc . So cranking it over is out for a while
  9. Yes Thanks David I do - you kindly sent me the manual some time ago and I picked up the original booklet subsequently on ebay. However no mention of fuel vapour out of the bottom of the carburettor at full throttle in either -Karl
  10. The excessive fuel out the bottom of the carburettor at full throttle problem I think has been solved. When I got the rebuilt carb back for Stan Howe he had set it up with the throttle arm on the wrong side. It was a simple matter to swap it over to the other side. When I moved it however I didn't pay enough attention to the position of the throttle butterfly relative to the throttle arm . So with the throttle closed the butterfly was acually a little open as I opened the throttle the butterfly valve actually closed and the opened up but of course never opened fully at full throttle . This partial obstruction I think was the cause of the problem but time will tell!
  11. Thanks Phil -I vaguely remembered that this had come up previously. I still have some reservations about a cast crank but the low horsepower of the Hupp might mean one is ok. Certainly sounds cheaper but by the time we factor in exchange rate and shipping and then do machining on top of this I suspect there won't be a lot of difference in cost for us -Karl
  12. Roger - I spoke to Graham he thinks about $1800 to $2000 plus GST less 10% discount for VCC membership. He does say that the more he gets the cheaper he can do it - I'm deciding if I would like a spare. For our international friends NZ$2000 is today about US$1500 (GST is sales tax at 15% and I don't think applies for overseas sales ) Karl
  13. No problems Roger I'll give Graham a ring on Monday and let you know. I agree about not using it -My spare crankcase casting has a massive hole in the side of it where a crank obviously let go. I'm sure that we can get a crank made locally without having to worry about exchange rates and shiping costs . Will be in touch -Karl
  14. It lives !!! Thanks to all. In the end I think it was a combination of the needle valve not being opened enough and the air valve being open to much . Seems to idle well but when I open up the throttle I do seem to get a lot fuel vapor coming out the bottom the carb- I guess it will be a matter of fiddling with the needle valve and the air valve control settings to eliminate this - Ken ? Edgar? David? Karl
  15. Ouch Roger - I can get it done down here in the Manawatu . B and H engineering in Palmerston North do all the Vintage car engine work for this end of the island and a lot for overseas - Currently they are making 1912 Simplex engines from scratch for a customer . They have certainly seen the inside of my engine and have made a camshaft for me and it was pretty cheap ( about NZ$600) and most of that was the cost of getting it hardened etc . I would thoroughly recommend their work they also give a 10% discount for VCC members . When we had my engine apart they crack tested my crankshaft which thankfully was ok but Graham (the owner) didn't think it would be a big job to make another one if needed If you want I can talk to Graham and get a rough idea of what it would cost to make a crankshaft. Karl
  16. Thanks Phil I have those -Karl
  17. Max Tried the Model T gasket rings and they are a tad smaller than the ports. My plan was to use my copper rings and over the top of them use a copper crush gasket with an ID close to the ring OD. I think I will probably use my rings plus a gasket. The exhaust gasket for a Mini can be cut up to provide a nice size gasket for the ports- Karl
  18. Thanks a million Max -The frustration level was getting pretty high. Once I ruled out a blockage in the manifold I fiqured it was too much air getting in somewhere but didn't think of the air valve. Getting a seal on the inlet manifold block interface may also be a contribution to the problem . What I tried to do was turn down some 1 3/8 copper pipe so the OD fitted the ID of the manifold and block. The I parted off the pipe into to rings 50 thou longer than the combined recess in block and manifold . After annealing the rings I put them in and installed the manifolds . My plan was that the rings would squish up and expand and create a seal . However the recesses in the manifold are not of uniform depth and vary by about 15 thou round the circumference so perhaps I didn't get as much crush /seal as I wanted . Nice to know that after a 100 years the ANZACs are still looking out for each other ! Karl
  19. Well yet again I had a go at installing my reconditioned breeze carburettor and yet again it would not run. It was fully rebuilt by Stan Howe and I know it has been bench run and flow tested. It will start if I fill the priming cups but won't run for more than a few beats before stopping . Opening up the throttle makes no difference during those few beats. I wonder about the reproduction inlet manifold but it appears to have no blockages in it . I'll check it out tomorrow . Failing that I wonder about a leak at the manifold block junction. It ran fine with the old (butchered) manifold and Holly NH carb-Karl
  20. Thanks Phil looks ok . He states "some small parts missing but nothing major" Everything missing on a Hup 20 is a major! Having said that the only thing I can see missing is the magneto drive cover which I'm sure the new owner would never find and would have to get one cast up . -Karl
  21. Thanks Max I never knew that the Hupp engine was used in any other vehicle . I found this picture of a 1912 Little and sure enough its our beloved engine . More importantly it shows me how to mount a fan (I have searched and searched for a photo of Hupps accessory fan) Also I am intriqued by the way the rods are set up allow advance and retard of the mag. Karl http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/399493,16959/1912-Little-Roadster_photo.aspx
  22. David I think probably it is due to the petcock upstands being slightly longer than they should be. I looked at them when I pulled the engine apart and even posted some pictures here The consensus was they where ok and I was to scared to shorten them up as the car is running so well now. The oil is only a minor nuisance really. The compression is really good I'd be very surprised if the rings need doing. Karl
  23. Roger As a Kiwi myself I think the are talking about journeys more like what you did in Aussie. Distances in excess of 1000 miles spread over a large number of days. My Hup has travelled from Auckland to Taupo a few times. I take it on Veteran runs locally a few times a year and they are normally 80 to 100 miles long. I have had my car 5 years and am only now reaching the point where I would be happy to take it on a long tour. The only mechanical parts of it that hasn't had major work on it in the last 5 years is the rear end and radiator . Unfortunately despite being self employed I just don't have the ability to take a week or two off work and go touring with my car. However I will do precisely this in Jan 2016 when I go to the Vero Rally in Dunedin but will take my 1930 Model A for that -Karl
  24. My Great Grandfather had a model 32 . It served him well. Unfortunately he was not a great driver and this was compounded by his Irish affinity for whiskey. On one well lubricated trip home he drifted slightly off course and knocked down two shop verrnada posts fully collapsing the shop verranda. The Hup was apparrently unscathed!! The dangers did not cease when he arrived home as he had an unfortunate habit of forgetting to apply the brakes when he entered his garage to park the car. After replacing the garage rear wall a few times my long suffering grandfather and his brothers solved the problem by installing a crumple zone of empty gas cans at the rear of the garage -Gas cans being easier to replace than garage walls ! Karl
  25. I get a little seepage from the front bearing but only enough to leave a fine linear spray on the inside of the hood. Magneto leakage has never been a problem. My issue is lots of oil the spews out the breather pipes and runs down the side of the crankcase -Karl
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