1910Hupp

The sad thing is I think you and I both find this post distressing -but for very different reasons . While I respect your right to bear arms I'm very glad that I live in a country were no one criminal or not, Law enforcement or not can pull put a handgun and use it. No hand guns available in this country and intentional shootings per year can be counted on one hand.

I was just discussing steeldraulics with some friends last night. One of my friends has them on his Durant he tells me that he has awful trouble with them staying adjusted. He will adjust them up and they are great and then 50 miles later they are out of adjustment. He says his friends with them suffer the same problem- Do you have the solution ? Karl

Peter My car has a repo Selden plate on the drivers side seat upstand I suspect they would have had one originally. I don't think a flywheel cover is original -certainly not drawn on the pictures in my original manual Never ever seen a photo of an original toolkit let alone the real thing On my car I used red fibre washers and silicone gasket goop on the water openings in the cylinder blocks The silicone makes up for the irregularities in the outlet/inlet castings . My steering spider is aluminium but is definitely a later casting Karl

No problems enjoy the day ! Of course we are a day ahead of you -Mine was great apart from having to work some of it - No eggnog or indeed any alcohol for me . A bad look when the doctor smells of alcohol!! LOL Karl

David can you email the apron measurements to me as well Thanks Karl Pmac good to have another colonial on board even if you are currently in the States. What I did with my grease cups is tap the inside for a zerk fitting . Then you just take the cap off and give it a couple of pumps with the grease gun saves a lot of time and mess and still looks original -Karl

David Nice car - All the best with finding a Breeze Carb - It took me four years but got one eventually off Ebay . At least unlike me your manifold has not been butchered -Karl

I've never used the bottom plug . The air valve I've left alone after opening it up as far as I could and still being able to start the car. My carb spits a bit of fuel vapour out the bottom of the carb when the mixture is a bit rich when I start up. Settles when I lean it down No drip after shut off from the carb but everything else drips oil ! Karl

Thanks Max That's really sad news . I was and still am in awe of his Hupmobile knowledge. A couple of times on recent trips to Queensland I debated making the pilgrimage to his home town to talk early Hupps and poke around his cars and garage but never got there - Karl

The Restoration Supply Company can provide the Battleship Lineolum and lots of other good stuff as well -Karl

When you start it open the throttle fully . Open the mixture one whole turn. Flood the carburettor . Turn the car over 4 times with the ignition off. Then flood the carb again. Turn the ignition on and should fire on first or second pull. . Once running turn the mixture screw in until the idle is fastest . The air valve is trial and error but you don't want it opening at crank or idle speed otherwise you will never start as will be too lean. I leave the plug out the bottom of the manifold all the time . Preheating the intake air just means less air is ingested. In the day it was useful as with the inferior low octanes warmed air gave better combustion but we don't have that problem today. I don't have a spring on my carburettor . Karl

I'm currently running the Breeze . Previously I had the Holley NH on a butchered manifold . The Holley had more top end speed (only an extra 5 mph) but being designed for the 2.8 litres of the Model T engine is too big for the Hupp motor and you can't get a nice idle. The Breeze performs well . To start mine I open the Mixture adjustment by 3/4 Turn and when it starts I lean it down until i get the fastest idle speed . When I first started using the breeze I was running it to rich it performs much better when leaner - I couldn't work out why the car was running cold and had reduced power. I leave the air valve well alone . I have tried fiddling with variable ignition timing and although I still have adjustment available I generally leave the ignition alone -the exception being on a long "high speed" run when I will advance it fully. Karl

Shipping no problem - probably cheaper than to get it here, Not sure i think my total bill including making the camshaft was about NZ $ 1800 so about NZ$800 I could get a firm price if you wanted to proceed -Karl

David I can certainly get it done here by the same shop who did mine. However the postage cost half way round the world and back may be an issue -Karl

David - Contact Edgar in Australia he informed me how to do my cam bearings . Unfortunately they were poured by a shop so I don't have any photos. My cam had a 40 thou bend in it and we tried to straighten it by shot peening it . It broke in two. I had a shaft made locally including fabrication, heat treatment, grinding and hardening it cost me NZ $1000 or about US$700 which I thought was pretty good - Was done by the same shop who fabricated the Stoddard jugs -Karl

Been there . Mine stopped completely. Set the camshaft up in the side plate and wrap its journals in newspaper the pour the babbit. Perfect clearance Karl

Had the same problem First check the air valve is only just open -otherwise you will be sucking air and the mixture will be too lean to ever fire. Open the needle dial about 1.5 turns as a starting point . To start I open it another half turn . I then flood the carb and turn the motor over 2 or 3 times with the mag off. The re flood the carb and turn the mag on and spin it over Normally fires first pull. The I turn the needle dial back a 1/2 turn until the car runs nicely . Karl

I ran the NH prior to going back to the Breeze . The NH is a very simple carb and really there is nothing to adjust other than the mixture and Idle speed . The later won't effect your acceleration but the former might. Close it right up and open it 11/2 turns then open close/ until its running sweetly and that's it . The other thing is to check that the throttle at the carb is moving as it should sometimes if the linkage is not right when we depress the gas pedal the carb throttle hardly moves at.all . The major problem with the NH is that it is to big for the Hup engine as it was designed for the 2.3l of the Model T. Hence top end speed is great but smooth idle is a problem. You say you have a smooth idle which would be unusual in my experience with the NH on the Hup ? Inlet manifold leak The previous owner of my car converted the plugs to 18mm which I'm sure are non standard. I run Champion D21's (the hottest 18mm plug I could get) gapped to 23 thou Karl

Thanks Max I have passed it on -Karl

One of my friends is restoring a 1915 Model K . We are having trouble finding some oversized pistons for it . Anything above +40 thou we can use -Can any one help? -Karl

I would love it! However I suspect the postage to New Zealand would bankrupt me! Karl

Two more things the motor runs much colder . I presumbe it was running lean on the Holley creating heat . And secondly it is a nightmare to start cold . I took it to work last week and the night was relatively cold ( it is still early spring here) I couldn't start it until I used the priming cups ! Karl

Having recently converted from the Holly NH conversion to the original Breeze Carb and manifold I am finally getting to grips with driving the car . For starting I certainly need to richen the mixture by about 1/4 of a turn even if the car is hot . Once it fires which it normally does on the first of second pull I can turn the carb back 1/4 turn and it will continue to run. The spring tension on the air valve is very crucial - to much and it will never start and to little means no acceleration and a sensation like you are driving with the brakes on.!! Unlike the Holly the Breeze really does perform better when the engine is hot . Warm up is no longer just a good idea but mandatory for lively performance . Overall I'm pretty happy with the Breeze - Top end speed is identical to the Holly but acceleration to get there is not as brisk. Idle is much better with the Breeze -But most importantly the Breeze is original so will remain on the car ! Karl

David You may be right. Although the drips drip into the crankcase The centre bearing housing splits the crank case into two compartments. After a run when I open the bottom petcocks I get a stream of oil from the front for 30 seconds or so but only for about 15 seconds from the rear . So I assume that the rear uses more oil via seepage into the gearbox. The drip rate with straight 30 is about 10 dpm when cold and 20dpm when hot . I fiqured that more oil was better than less, especially when cold and the multigrade seems to supply a better drip rate when cold . I used to use 10-30W (as I use this in the model T , Model A and V8 ) but Edgar Bowen recommends 20-50w and he has done more miles in his Hupmobile than just about any one I know. Harold Sharon also recommends Multigrade in his book as well . Finally and probably the main reason is I find it hard to get straight 30W locally any more ! Karl

Andrew I have run 250 Wt in the gearbox and was still able to change gears with no problems. Once I fixed the absence of thrust washers and some wear issues in the gearbox such heavy oil was not required to facilitate smooth changes and I now run multigrade 20-50 with no problems in both box and motor . I have also used straight 30 wt but I found that when cold the oiler drip factor was a bit on the low side -Karl