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Everything posted by 1910Hupp

  1. Hmm very interesting !! The clutch lag is only on a hill change down and then not always. (I had just assumed I had let the revs drop down too low and indeed if I double de clutch earlier with more revs it doesn't happen). I'm not sure what rear end I have in it which of course makes a big diference. I know its not original. With regards to the timing .The magneto is fitted with an advance and retard and by experimentation we have found the best overall performance spot and fixed the ignition there. In the book "Three Men In a Hupp" the author drove a Hupmobile 20 Tourer which the owner said had a max speed of 22 mph (of course a lot more weight than our cars -Although with the windscreen,hood and luggage rack not to mention my 240lbs mine probably weighs a little more than yours) Soon after I got the car I emailed Bill Cuthbett (the resource person in the club for Hup 20s) re expected performance and he indicated to me that if I could get 30 mph I had a good car. The sister car to mine in Auckland has simaler performance to mine -as they used to race each other in rallies ! However does have same rear end. So not sure whats going on . Either my speedo is reading slow -possible as 25mph seems very fast. Or you have a rocket ship- and I want your engine!! Tell me your procedure for timing your engine becuase I suspect this is the most likely cause of any problem I have -Karl
  2. Thanks David Certainly in my car clutch judder is much better with thicker oil and perhaps the thicker oil is providing a more graduated release. I'm interested at what speed your car cruised at when you had it on the road. Mine cruises at 22-25 mph via the fitted speedo and GPS has confirmed this . On a down hill slope with just me on I have had it pushing 30mph which is plenty fast enough given the braking system and pedal car steering. Up a steep hill we are at 5-10mph in low gear. Changing down on a hill we some times sit stationery for 20 seconds immediately after the change into low and then the clutch seems to take up and we begin to move forward. I wonder where the claims of 50mph came from Karl
  3. Brian No I don't flush it with kerosene but I do drain the oil completely every five hundred miles (about every six to eight months given the miles I do) or so and replace with clean stuff- It's great for a week you think the engine doesn't leak oil as the oil is so clean it doesn't show up. David - In the gearbox I've tried SAE 30 -clutch judder and gnashy gears just couldn't get the change right much worse as got hotter. SAE 10w-30W same. SAE 140 less clutch judder and smoother gearchanges again things deterioate as the gearbox heats up . SAE 250 no clutch judder and smooth silent changes until gearbox gets really hot but still acceptable and lastly a 50/50 mix of SAE 250 and Moreys rear end thickener-probably the best overall and what my sister car runs -However more hassle to mix up so I just use the SAE 250W. Having never seen the inside of my engine/ gear box I was concerned that some of the gearbox oil would end up in the crankcase but I have been reasured that although engine oil will get into the gearbox the reverse is unlikely Karl
  4. David What concerns do you have about multigrades ? I looked in Harold Sharons book on Brass Era Cars and he seemed ok with them- but I would hate to be doing harm by using multigrades. In the rear end I'm running the same 250 SAE as the gearbox. Karl
  5. I'd be interested in what lubricants people with running Model 20's use. Medium weight oil is specified for the engine and the gearbox. However SAE 30 weight in the gearbox gives me lots of clutch judder and gear changes are difficult. The sister car to mine in Auckland runs 250 SAE (ie the old 600W for the Model A Gearbox) in the box which certainly makes gear changing and clutch action a much more pleasent experience. With regard to the engine drippers SAE 30 doesn't give 16 drops per minute when cold and gives about 30dpm when hot Multigrade 10-30W gives 10 drops when cold and 30 dpm when hot which is probably ok. However I'm thinking about about using Mobil 1 -at 5w-50w I wonder if it might be better although more expensive ! I would be interested in others experience opinions. Karl
  6. No -The name sounds slightly familar but not sure why. I didn't restore the Hupmobile or my Model A but bought them virtually completed The only car I have restored completely myself is the Sunbeam Alpine and I did that after I left Auckland (when I wasn't a poor student anymore). Karl
  7. We live about 6 hours south of Auckland in a small rural community close to Palmerston North. However I grew up in Auckland attending High School there and then Med School for 6 years. My Brother and Father still live in Auckland . My car originally came from the South island (as a collection of bits) but was restored in Auckland I think my hub caps are copies of the original Aluminuim ones you talk about . The ones with "Hupp Motor Company" embossed into them. Mine don't have this writing I have visons of getting an original aluminuim one and casting a set in brass. This is a link to an article published on my car soon after the restoration was completed http://www.classiccar.co.nz/articles/yellow-raceabout-1910-hupmobile-181?page=0
  8. Nice car (and nice house) Brian. Steering wheel on the wrong side for us though. Although my friends who drive LHD cars on our RHD roads find in a real advantage as they can get well out of the traffic stream -only an issue when you overtake something and in old cars (or at least my sort of oldcars) we're normally the overtakee. On our last rally I missed a change down on a hill and almost got overtaken by a 1 cylinder 1903 Holley. Karl
  9. The front gas lights are Auto Lamp Company (New York) The Kerosene side lights are Lucas "King of the Road" No 720s. The kerosene taillight I think is a modified Hupp 32 side light as it is black metal with "Hupmobile " embossed on the top. All work but don't throw out much light! I've just puchased a small rushmore gas spotlight which I have restored and will mount on a brass stand off the rear driver side fender when I work out how to engineer it Karl
  10. Whoops file is too large -Karl
  11. How about than me!-Karl
  12. Well that worked ok -Here's one of me and my two other babies The cars definitely look better tham me!!
  13. I Fiqured out the photos So here goes
  14. My 1910 Hupmobile is yellow- yes yellow ! Not original but I brought it like that and I like it a lot. The engine is grey when it is not covered in oil! I had it out today for a 10 mile run at 22 miles per hour-(a long way from the quoted 50mph of the early sales litrature!) I will try and add in a picture of it-if someone can tell me how!! Karl 1910 Hupmobile 20 1930 Model A Sports Coupe 1967 Sunbeam Alpine Roadster And a few practical moderns for everyday trouble free use
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