jord

Can anyone send me pics of the trunk area of a 1939 sedan? I am trying to locate the position of the light and switch. Thanks

My 1939- 4 door will not start after sitting for a few day's unless it is primed ,however when I turn on the electric fuel pump to fill the carb I can then see gas going into the intake manifold when I pump the throttle and it will start easily. So the bowl is draining, will a carb kit fix this. She has had some back fires earlier which I read on the site will take out some part of the carb. Also noticed some surging. Mine is a 06H carb 4 hole base it was rebuilt then sat for a few years. Next if am to remove the carb I was thinking of adding a pvc system, I already have a threaded hole at the front of the intake manifold so if I install a base below the carb with holes to the throat of the carb what kind of pvc valve would be ok or just feed it directly

Thanks everyone, ordered press in fittings from Mac's and when they arrive I will install them then grease her up and try and get her on the road for a test run. if all goes well body work will be next.

Ken, you were right, I panicked because there never was a grease fitting and with brighter light I saw the needle bearing. I just found out that they did use press in fittings that would explain all. Will try and make photo's smaller next time Thanks

Definitely the splines, could be the drive tube was changed out before I purchased the car, thought nothing of it because when I removed the bearing it was well lubricated but now I think it was because my universal bearing and cap were leaking. I will try to get a photo of the set up.

Thanks Ken, looks like some parts may have been changed over the years, right now I look up the hole and only see splines. I have installed the bearing so I may have to take things apart to get a measurement as to it's location and drill a new hole for a fitting.Thanks

Cannot find any reference as to a grease fitting or plug in the drive tube of a 1939 LZ 4 door. The hole is 5/16 in diameter and machined smooth, located about 2 inches behind the speedometer take off at the five o'clock position looking at the rear of the engine Thanks again to everyone for your help

Ken, did yours come with the carb ball fitting or can I buy the end online somewhere. The spring loaded ball connector at the end of the cable

Thanks Ken, Tried Allan but get no follow up response and Boos has his on back order. Hopefully Allan will get back to me as he does have a good price

Thanks to everyone,I did contact all our vendors and no one as any stock so I will for now go with the straight cable pull

Is there an after market Front Emergency Brake Cable for a 1939 zephyr 4 door, Mine is old and this is to important for safety

Whoops,1939 LZ 4

Looking at one of the vendors and they list a cable to the carb and also a fixed rod. Which would I need the prices are high just for a simple cable assembly. Right now I have the cable for the old V8 engine which is very short. Or even a photo of both may help me at a local auto parts store. Thanks as always Jord

Monday and Thursday morning I will be out for appointments, but would like to meet again any other time. Will be home 8362 Palmetto Way, Foley

Thanks everyone,Ken I believe we met in Foley a number of years back. I am contacting restoration specialist for help and if they cannot help I will contact you . The ford suppliers are not the same,they are close.

Is there a source for window felts that go onto the window guides? I found kits for 100.00 . Looking for something to glue on the 2 1/2 inch side and then buy the narrow channel fuzzy, my metal is in good shape, 1939 Lincoln Zephyr 4 door Thanks

Thanks Vern and Tom; the difficulty I ran into was about 2 inches of light rust in the channel. What I ended up doing was to get a 12 inch saws-all blade and ran it up and down the sides of the channel then a small screwdriver to wedge in behind and drive it out into the open then up and out. Any recommendation on the rust treatment Thanks to both of you

Thanks will give it a go. Still looking for a very fluid rust preventive product that will flow into the lower door drains

Can anyone let me know how to remove the larger window guide on the doors, removed a small screw on the bottom of it and I am afraid to knock it upward from the bottom. Also is their a product that I can apply to the bottom of the inside door to prevent further rusting?

Thanks Peecher and Flatcat I have the setup as per picture, just to make sure the line from the bottom of the filter goes back to the lower block outlet while the middle line goes into the side of the filter. My pressure switch uses the top outlet. Thanks again

Just now got the engine running, I am not sure if the piping for the oil filter is correct. At the rear of the engine I have three ports the top goes to the pressure switch and next the two holes on the side, the top one closest to the rear end side goes to the side of the oil filter and the lower front side port goes to the bottom of the filter housing, not sure if this is correct. I would hate to just recycle the oil up and back. Thanks for any assitance

Does anyone know which fuel additive is recommended for our V12 engines, concerned about the valves in particular with unleaded ethanol fuel. Thanks for any information

I just had mine rebuilt at Steele Rubber Products, had to send in the core and it came back looking brand new. Cost around 400.00, mine required a small repair 1 800 447 0849 you can find them on the net. Turn around was a couple weeks

I also found the rear mount rubber had broken down, and once I had the mount rebuilt it went on perfectly

What is the best product for the roof insulation before the headliner goes in. Original seems to have been a fibrous material that I cannot find. Some sites recommend double foil insulating sheets, I am concerned about moisture trapped up there. Thanks again