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Steve Shore

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  1. I need to buy the center back glass for a 1952 Buick Special Model 41D 4dr Sedan. I believe that a glass from 1950-52 4dr Special will work. Email at sshore@tecwell.com or call 903.720.1465. Thanks!
  2. You actually can still get Type A. I just bought some at my local auto parts store. I did have to ask for it - they did not even keep it out on the shelf. It was stored in the back.
  3. Pete, I did join the BCA and the North Texas chapter. Hopefully I can make some meets this spring.
  4. Here is my first Buick - 1952 Special Deluxe with 18,000 original miles. I bought this Buick back in November 2008 off of Ebay. I was browsing through Ebay specifically looking for original low mileage cars (I have a couple of low mileage original vehicles as well as some frame off restored cars). Something about complete untouched cars has always facisinated me. Anyway, something about this old Buick caught my eye. After a couple of phone calls I ended up "Buying it Now". When the car was delivered to my office it completely blew me away. This car has not been touched in any way - original paint, interior, engine, everything was original. The only things I have done to it was to install a brand new gas tank and install seat belts. Every instrument and light works on it other than the clock. It runs great and my first experience with either a Buick straight 8 engine and a Dynaflow transmission has been great. I am currently in the middle of a frame off restoration of a 52 Ford Victoria. I am going to be real interested in seeing how the "luxury" Ford compares to the "economical" Buick. I am betting that the Buick comes out on top as far as ride quality and interior comfort. Anyway, I am part of the Buick family now and i could not be more enthused.
  5. Here are some photos. It really is a sweet running car. BTW - I have everything from a 39 Ford V8 to two Camaro Z28's and this car gets more attention when I drive it than anything else I have. It really does have a "cool" factor that most cars don't have.
  6. I have a 1939 Ford Standard Tudor that I just completed a frame off concours restoration of. One big problem - after 800 miles the engine leaks alot of what I think is anti-freeze on the garage floor from underneath the bell housing area. I cannot seem to catch it leaking - it leaks it overnight as the engine cools after driving. Even more puzzeling the radiator coolant level does not seem to go down. I have yet to add any coolant since I started driving the car 800 miles ago. I might add that when the engine is cool you can see a small amount of coolant laying on top of the engine block where the back of the intake manifold bolts on. This is only apparent whent the engine is COOL - when looked at when HOT and running there is no visible sign of coolant laying on top of the block by the back of the manifold. When the engine cranks a small amount of clear water does come out of the tailpipe as well as some amount of black soot that stains the concrete. Also, the radiator has a little bit of brown "crud" around the filler neck, although like I said the anti-freeze is still full to the top and is still a clean green color. I would think of a blown head gasket but I am puzzeled by the coolant level not going down in the radiator or the fact that the engine oil still seems to be clean and not contaminated. I am really puzzeled by all of the coolant on my garage floor and the water coming from the tailpipe. Help!
  7. OK, now I have another question in regard to the best motor oil viscosity to use in my Buick. I have a 52 Buick Special Deluxe with 18,000 original miles. Obviously the engine has never been torn down and is all original. I changed the oil and used the motor oil sold by the Indiana AACA chapter - it is the oil with the ZDP formulated in the oil. However, the oil viscosity is 15W-40. I buy this oil by the case and use it in all of my classic cars - from a 39 Ford up to my Camaros. In researching the Straight 8 engine I have found out that the original specs called for 20W engine oil. The oil pressure does show "high" on the dash gauge. My question - should I drain this oil and go back to a non-ZDP forumalted 20W oil? I know I can add a ZDP additive so that really is not an issue. I was just surprised that the specs called for a 20W oil. thanks for the help again.
  8. OK, I found the problem... When the engine died, I immediately removed the top half of the carburetor (with the carb still on the engine) and found the float chambers dry. In order to remove the top half of the carb, I had to remove the fuel line to the carburetor. It was full of fuel. I checked the pump action of the fuel pump while cranking the engine with the fuel line disconnected from the carb. The pumped checked out OK. Bottom line - I found a little tiny screen in the fuel inlet of the carburetor. This screen was pretty rusty and obviously obstructing the flow of fuel. I removed the screen and reassembled the carburetor and now the car runs fine. BTW - I did purchase and install and brand new fuel tank. The old one was full of gunk. I did this right after purchasing the car. I really enjoy this car and the fact that it is an untouched 18,000 mile original. I am a full blown Buick fan now and I really appreciate all of the help that I received on this forumn. Thanks alot!
  9. I have a 52 Series 41D with 18,000 original miles. The car has run great over the past three months that I have had it. However, beginning today, it has developed a strange condition. It starts right up with no problem. It hesitates a little bit at start up, but after it warms up it seems to run fine. However, as it goes down the road the engine starts missing and then dies. It will not start again unless you let it sit for about five minutes. It will crank right up but then die again after a few minutes. The only other clue I can give is that the ampmeter on the dash shows to be charging at the top end of the scale when the car is being driven down the road. Any help would be appreciated.
  10. Thanks for the reply - the filter is not a problem - Autozone has the filter in stock. I am just wondering about running a detergent oil in what might have been a non-detergent engine. I guess I will probably just go ahead and run HD oil in it.
  11. I have just bought a 1952 Special with 18,000 original miles. It runs and drives beautifully. I have a question - what should I do about the initial oil change - can a good quality detergent oil be used in an original engine like this? I use the "Classic Car" oil with ZDP that is sold by the Indiana club in all of my other cars. However, those engines have all be re-build and overhauled. I have never dealt with a 55 year old engine that has never been torn down. BTW - this is my first classic Buick. I've got mostly Fords and two Z28's. For some reason this car just struck me and i bought it.
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