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Narve N
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Posts posted by Narve N
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2 hours ago, beemergb said:
Hi there , just seen the article , are the heads now for sale ? I need one for a !931 CL Chrysler
If your engine is an original to the CL then that would be the larger 385 cui engine and not 323 cui as the heads in question here were intended for. If you have no head for your engine at all, there might be some European options: 1) Back in 2006 this newly cast engine block and manifold were displayed at Essen. The items were likely made for 1933 CL in Switzerland. You could maybe contact them if they made a head too. 2) I do also recall that a Danish CG restorer had an extra head with his car.
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8 hours ago, leomara said:
a similar routing for my cable on the left side of the bell housing and clamped with that bracket to the bell housing?
That would make sense. I honestly believe that a safe installation (clamping is vital) is the most important fact, almost all of this will anyhow be hidden. Also, as getting sufficient current to the starter motor is a main task, I am actually considering replacing the ground cable with a longer connected to a starter mounting bolt. By the same consideration, all my main cables are fresh with old-style covers outside.
For the smaller wires however I have reused several of those that still have good isolation.
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Reusing the old cable-isolation this routing appeared natural. Car is second version Series 75 (DCP).
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On 4/17/2024 at 4:50 AM, BlueDevil said:
Pegged the oil pressure.
Just found this interesting thread. Be aware that at least two of my oil pressure relief gauges were stuck and never let the pressure come down. Managed to get one of them back into life with large doses of heat, the other was replaced through Jay. The oil pressure gauge will fail if exposed to 60 lbs+ of pressure for more than a few seconds, one of them even got a bent needle..
And I have a DCP that was not two-tone blue as new, but rather some dreary olive and beige colors. Will not be repainted those, but rather something period however nice and bright.
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Honeycomb on all my original radiators (Series 65 and 75, total of 7 radiators) here in Norway. I did manage to get new core for two of those in UK. The honeycomb diamond pattern supplied is slightly smaller than OEM, but extremely few people will be able to tell and I am happy with them. However the current prices indicate that it pays to search for an original radiator that still functions and keep the water inside. The remanufacture now equals the value a fair parts car.
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Mopar parts numbers are chronologically numbered, that means you can roughly find years of application by identifying other parts with similar numbers. For 1561726, the closest I get by using Len Dawson's catalog is interior stuff for 56 Dodge Trucks that also has 1561 as the first four digits. All prewar stuff had much lower parts numbers.
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Differs (the starting pedal way of functioning) between early and late Series 75, what do you have?
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Are you selling the rebuilt auxiliaries separately?
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This Norwegian 1926 Imperial Roadster has both featured in a period French film, been converted to an Ute (50s maybe) and recently been converted back to a Roadster. I can try to get some contact information for the current owner who obviously has had to make many panels from scratch.
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Interesting to learn something new. My 1929 Series 65 has 14" drums, so going from 14 to 11 on its direct replacement (Series 66 as introduced in 1929) was an interesting development.
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I strongly believe that you are not looking for a 30/31 brake drum. The original ones were much taller than 11" which again sounds like a mid or late 30s, possibly even newer drum? Besides that, the wheel bolt patterns of c1930 era differed a lot between Plymouth vs DeSoto vs Dodge vs various Chryslers.
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On 1/18/2024 at 3:51 PM, BlueDevil said:
..my guess is you oil pump was installed a couple teeth off. Only fix is to drop the pan and the pump, Then you have to rotate the pump and refit it checking to see if the distributor drive slot is parallel to the length of the block. If not, repeat previous steps until it does.
Many thanks for the tip, especially that the drive slot is to be parallel to the engine when cylinder #1 is at TDC. The oil pump drive has 11 teeth and was two off on my car, resulting in a roughly 66 degrees off rotor. I dropped the pan and the oil pump, aligned the pump and then remounted it in less than two hours with no lift. Only downside is the previous owners use of siliconbased adhesive in addition to the pan gasket, necessitating remaking a pan gasket.
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2 hours ago, JACK M said:
Several to choose from if you want to step up to what the racers use.
Looking through the speedwaymotors pages, I cannot find any that looks to be a bolt-on fit on my car? Is it maybe a procedure to narrow down what can be used and how to adapt? I was honestly hoping someone would come forward and list a solution they had made for their 40s Mopar.
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Found a picture with dimensions. Part #855059. I suspect several years had something similar?
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My 1940 Chrysler has a broken stabilizer bar and I did search in vain for years for a used replacement, before I welded what I got with preheating etc. That repaired bar lasted around 2000 miles, but is now again broken and the car really leans in turns. As far as I know, this bar is shared across all Chryslers 1940 and 1941 and of rather small dimensions so an upgrade would be beneficial. Has anyone found a newer and possibly beefier stabilizer bar and mounted that on their 1940s Chrysler?
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The color might be original, but the seats appear to be re-dyed with lots of red color to cover up cracks with paint instead of a more thorough repair and refurbish. This might result in stiff and uncomfortable seats and even faster decaying of the leather.
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Did he show you that new Imperial in another color? The seats look like they have been recolored with lots of red paint and they will need immediate attention to avoid the leather ripping apart, but they appear original and saveable. The underside also looks alright, not covered in fresh underseal to cover up rust etc. That underside crack looks like it is supposed to be there.
But,
have you checked the areas around headlights, lower fenders and rocker panels for excessive use of plastic filler? A gauge for that is not too expensive. If you can borrow a endoscope and look into the inner wheelarches that would also be good. Have you tried driving it, does it steer straight and does the brakes pull up straight? Is there excessive smoke for the engine, is it hard to start cold or hot, does the engine temperature and oil pressure at idle stay normal?
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1. Study the model, use Imperial Club Online pages and all the literature you can get hold of. Get to know what an Imperial is supposed to look like. Ask for an expert on 50s Mopars to come along and check, or be available via the telephone/videolink while you inspect the car.
2. To me the interior looks like a quick job in plain materials to smooth a quick sale. Imperial interiors would normally be more intricate and had patterns embossed in the leather in the late 50s?
3. Some Imperials used pot metal instead of stainless for mouldings and as a result had brightwork that is almost impossible to rechrome.
4. The pictures might indicate straight body sides which is good. Generally it looks like a non-restored car that has had a little work done.
5. These cars rust, get to know where and check all rustspots. Bring a large jack and an overall to inspect the car if the vendor doesn't have a lift available.
6. Do not think it must be this car or nothing, take your time. Lots of alternatives around, eg in Sweden with at least 4 Imperials advertised on this web-page: https://www.blocket.se/annonser/hela_sverige/fordon/bilar?cg=1020&mye=1969&page=2&q=chrysler
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Interesting topic of adding knock-offs. I gave up a similar project some 10 years ago, as the only alternative quoted for especially the rear wheels was to bolt everything onto the brakedrums making it a "bolt-on knock-off". Compared to the overall cost I decided against it. My cars now run on original wheelhubs with updated spokes and one-piece rims which maybe does not look so cool, but is safe and works very well.
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Droite and Gauche (left and right in French, must be made for a French car?)
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7 hours ago, pre1939chrysler said:
I'd be careful on that . Some years back Narve and I ran into a problem with a model 65 I sold him. Apparently WPC used a 4 cylinder chasis on the larger roadsters.Narve correct me if I' m incorrect.
J
Jay, I cannot recall that. Do you have any more on that car? All my Series 65s have been of the same original dimensions, but some owners have done strange stuff to them to keep the cars moving.
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Roughly 1720, no breakdown on Canada/US or RHD/LHD. You'll find the information in books like "Standard Catalog of American Cars" etc, but not online. These books did contain errors and the authors copied each others, so it pays to have the numbers cross-checked if possible.
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And talking about numbers, that 317 with some tags on each side indication that it has been added to the casting moulds for this exact engine, tells the block was cast on March 17th (likely in 1926).
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The FEDCO starts with an E, barely visible. I then put EW221C into this ( https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin ) excellent resource, and found some more info. Car is #2212 out of 9114 built. Entering the FEDCO into the by-the-month tables that Sasha39 once provided makes the car an April 26 production.
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1929 75 starter cable routing
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Good call. As I installed a battery ground connection on/off switch into the floor, the flat strap normally connected from the battery to the frame was not long enough anymore. I will need to replace that with (probably a gauge 0 welding equipment type) cable of sufficient length. Modern, but covered in either some original isolation or tape to disguise the plastic isolation.