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About northmn

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  1. I just had to reply to this. I had a similar problem with my gauge reading all sorts of things for a year . I took the dash and sender out to try to fix the problem. One day I was thinking that during the restoration a year earkier I painstakingly dismantled every electrical connector outside the car and cleaned the wire ends with steel wool till they where bright copper again. The only one I didn't do was the gas tank sender ones. I pulled the tank down again and took off the ground shielding to discover it was a black colour . It took emery cloth to get it bright again. The fuel gauge has been working flawlessly since.
  2. 85 T-Type (not mine) for sale on ebay item #171301671621 6 days left. Looks like a rare find for the mileage and condition and a fraction the price I spent restoring mine. It's nice to see one in such original condition by the looks of it. I hope it gets a good home.
  3. Thanks, no it is the turbo 6 engine. The body mounts are from Summit recing and made by Energy Suspension. The restoration lasted 5 years and everything was restored. Yes I drove it to the States for the Riv reunions but am reluctant to take it on long trips any more.
  4. northmn

    picture 059

    These stainless lines will crack if bent too much so I heated the area to be be bent that was to take a sharp bend to reduce the risk of cracking.
  5. northmn

    Fame After

    I 'am one of those people that went overboard on a restoration for sentimental reason and definitely not a profit. I wanted this car to be better than it was when new in some ways .
  6. northmn

    picture 059

    Stainless lines and new hardware instead of steel .
  7. northmn

    epoxy primed

    Production line of parts are sand blasted, epoxy primed, then 3 coats of 3 part industrial urethane.
  8. Fine media blasted then clear satin epoxy sprayed
  9. This was severly rotten out from a leaky front glass at the top that was replaced many years ago and was not resealed properly to allow for proper water drainage. This leaked to the floor inside and under the carpet. I had to cut the rotten floor section out, fabricate new parts, jig them, then bolt and weld everything. This would have been impossible to replicate as when new given the layers of sheet metal where parts of the body itself overlapped at this point to gain the strength needed.
  10. northmn

    Body Soldering

    I used a circular air sander with 50 to 100 grit discs in a cross hatch pattern very lightly to remove built up solder till it felt flat with the surrounding area. There was only a skim coat of body filler required by the body man when it was sent to the paint shop.
  11. The metal on these cars is thick enough to body solder without warping. I preferr it over plastic fillers because it should last longer without falling off in ten plus years.
  12. northmn


    Ruberized undercoating saved this Riv . After much scraping with an electric scraper I sand blasted it, then 1 coat etching primer, 2 coat epoxy primer, 3 coats 3 part urethane with hardener, then 1 coat acrylic enamel.
  13. 6 mill plastic and tuck tape encase the upper painted part leaving the entire underneath to be media blasted with black beauty. A shop vac hose in the back corner blows dust constantly out the front while blasting takes place. When the sand pot is empty I swept it up and recycled it through screening to be reused again.
  14. Urethane body mounts are from Energy Suspension. The entire exhaust system from manifolds back where ceramic coated and baked on. Ceramic coating is done inside and out to control heat and improve performance. It will also keep corrosion down.