DavidAU

Take it to a Cylinder Head repair shop. Those places weld up cracked aluminium cylinder heads, straighten warp heads etc. all the time (mainly Japanese and Korean) and have all sorts of rubber bungs etc. that they jam in to them to pressure test them in water when they have been repaired. If there is a shop near you that does Vapour blasting ( high pressure water, air and glass beads) it leaves a nice smooth shiny finish on aluminium without polishing. The photo is a head I had pressure tested and blasted a while ago.

http://minervisten.simplesite.com/ When I try to have it translated by google McAfee blocks it as a dangerous site.

What ever you put on it, black is my preference, use radial tires. Owning early Fords I can tell you the difference in handling and ride between radials and cross plys is night and day. I would never put cross plys on one of my cars again.

I had these wheels powder coated and they look exactly like the 2K paint on the body. The beauty about powder coating, apart from the fact you give some one 5 dirty rough looking wheels and a couple of days later they come back looking like new, is when they are being coated, the powder is electrically charged and it wraps around the spoke so the coverage is even everywhere, where as with spray painting it is sometimes quite difficult to get paint on to the back of the spokes if there are other spokes in the way.

Possibly before and after restoration but a strange way to advertise it if it is.

Looks like the Dodge ute is the high speed version. Check the wiper blade out.

"As of now everything works except the ammeter" Ah, This might have been written in error but in case it wasn't, the 40 Fords don't have an amp meter, they have a volt meter. This was a one year only for Ford so yours might be giving a correct reading after all.

Thanks Tom. I also have looked and couldn't find a number but I was told it was 68-1226 by a NOS parts dealer who thought he had one in stock but didn't. I think they are shrunk fitted into the drum so theoretically could be replaced but its looking like I will have to buy a repo hub.

I'm looking for an outer rear wheel bearing race that fits into the brake drum of a 38 to 48 Ford. I think the Ford # is 68-1226 and the rear bearing ( 68-1225 ) runs inside this race. As an alternative, someone may be able to give me the cross reference part No. of a Timken or similar brand race or bearing that I can try to find locally. (once I have an alternative bearing # I might be able to find the race) Thanks

I'm looking for an outer rear wheel bearing race that fits into the brake drum of a 38 to 48 Ford. I think the Ford # is 68-1226 and the rear bearing ( 68-1225 ) runs inside this race. As an alternative, someone may be able to give me the cross reference part No. of a Timken or similar brand race or bearing that I can try to find locally. (once I have an alternative bearing # I might be able to find the race) Thanks

I'm a bit late on the reply but if you have to, you could put a round washer or two between the latch and the lock washer / nut to take up any slack if it was required. The lock washer has a square centre to suit the shaft and a tab to bend onto the nut so no it will not come loose when turning the handle. You could use a nyloc nut instead of the lock washer if you wanted to.

This might help if you need a new lock cylinder. The spring loaded pin goes to the top when you slide it in the the hole. I have just fitted one in my 40 coupe and had to do quite a lot of filing and fiddling around to get it into place and if I had to do it again I would buy the new handle with the lock already installed. It would be a lot easier. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/catalogsearch/result/?q=trunk+lock+&x=13&y=10

Does it have a high pressure switch fitted and if it does is it working? This switch is fitted to just about all A/C systems to prevent high pressure in the system which may be what your problem is. I had one blow a hose in a car I had a few years ago because the switch was faulty. Sounded like two tire blowouts at once. Certainly got my attention.

A bit late I know but if you have the chance this is the BEST oil seal to fit in the front of a flathead engine. Fitted properly ( look on U tube how to fit a flathead oil seal) they work better than any other type of seal. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=Flathead oil seal&originalQuery=Flathead oil seal

Get it Sandblasted by a shop that knows what they are doing and then paint it with a couple of coats of epoxy primer. This will hold it for as long as it takes to get to final paint stage as long as you don't leave it out in the weather.

This place might help with the springs. http://www.romeoengineering.com/Vintage.html

The only problem I can see with your solution is that if the block is that thin you may crack it when you tighten up the nuts. I also dont think I would use a gasket between the plate and the block because it could deteriorate. I would clean and dry the block with Brake Kleen or similar and use JB Weld as the sealant. Lets face it , you never want to pull it off and the JB will stick to both surfaces and will reinforce the block.

There is one for sale this weekend at the Mecum auctions. https://www.mecum.com/lots/PJ0618-329019/1924-gardner-radio-special-touring/

One for sale here https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1949/buick/roadmaster/100988130

How do you stitch a hole? I've seen cracks stitched and can understand the process but not sure how you do a hole. Wouldn't it be better / easier to put a stainless steel plate over it and drill and tap some fixing points in to the block as well as using a permanent type of sealant between the plate and the block.

You wouldn't get too far with your own unautherised design plates where I live in Queensland, Australia. All the cop cars are fitted with automatic scanning cameras that are connect directly from the computer in the car to the Transport dept. data base and they check every vehicle they see around them looking for unregistered vehicles, fine dodgers, outstanding warrants etc. If the vehicle cannot be identified by its plates who would they send the fine to if you activated a red light camera or a remote controlled fixed radar camera so the penalty for unregistered plates is pretty savage $ and could even include car confiscation. Big brother is definately watching. You can purchase personalised plates for various prices depending what you are after and what they'll let you have. Another nice little earner for the Government. https://ppq.com.au/

"The extra consideration will be the time for charging stops." I can just see it now. Every corner coffee shop will have a charging station and a sign "4 cups of coffee gets you a free charge and a donut"

As the others have said, you'll be way behind financially if you start on this one and it'll be a long time before you get to drive it. Even if you got it for free it would still cost far more than than a good one you could buy now. Get the good one and you can still learn on it by fiddling and changing things to suit you and you get to drive it at the same time.

How much does a good one that does not need major restoration sell for in your area?

I have always thought that by having a smaller shoe with less surface area on the leading shoe like the Bendix system has, the hydraulic system would automaticly apply more pressure to the smaller shoe causing more friction which starts to rotate it and that in turn drives the rear shoe harder into the drum.