DavidAU

It should only have 1. I think the other maybe on there as a spare as they seem to be somewhat unreliable these days and the old originals like you have are well past their use by date. You could have a look at C & G Ford parts web site and see what they have as they are a very good supplier of Ford parts or go to your local parts supply and get a new one that that will fit on to the distributer. Just make sure it is approx. rated at about 22 mfd. Also get a spare to keep in the car. https://cgfordparts.com

This is from the instructions for a Bosch ZF4 which is very close to a DU4 The magneto is driven by a transverse shaft and is connected by a Simms coupling. This coupling has 19 teeth on one side and 20 teeth on the other, which gives a vernier adjustment so that a very minute adjustment may be made by altering the position of the fibre centre piece. Make sure from time to time that the contact breaker gap is between 15/1000 in. and 18/1000 in.

The pre-war Rolls Royce method is to insert the cotter pin so the head is hard down in the nut groove, grip the other end with pliers and twist it 90 degrees then bend the ends back around the sides of the nut. Finally the ends are cut to size, bent at 90 degrees inwards and pushed into the nut slot where the pin came through the bolt. Why such a complicated method? It is to stop the chauffeur cutting his hands when he is washing down the car and cleaning the exposed nuts on the suspension etc.

https://rroc.org.au/wiki/images/5/57/20_25_Owners_Handbook_Part_9.pdf

I'm with DavidMc but I would also wash it out thoroughly with detergent and water first and then fill it full of water before I drilled it and when I soldered it.

Anyone know what the head is?

I think if it was for a Bentley it would be a bit wider and triple laced.

Great photos. thanks

Contact gilletman on this forum. I think he is in Holland and seems to have a fair knowledge of those cars. You will find his latest post further down the forum titled "Pre War Rally"

Great photos.

I'm with JFranklin above. Clear sheetmetal type Silicone is the best. I spent many years as a metal Roofing contractor and I've seen metal flashings that have been out in the weather (read HEAT) for 20 - 30 years where I live and you have to cut the silicone to separate them. If you stick the badge on with that it will never fall off. I might also add that it is the best thing for sealing exhaust gaskets, manifolds and exhaust pipes as it does not burn. Far better than the expensive exhaust sealer you can buy in tubes.

Just a thought about the curve in the top of the bow. How about slitting a 2mm saw cut in the centre of the bow from one side to the other ( you could even leave a couple of mm of wood on the bottom side so it couldn't be seen from underneath) and insert a straight or curved up piece of 2mm thick steel or stainless ie. 25 x 2 mm across the full width. Through bolt or screw it and cover the ends of the threads so they are hidden and that should hold it straight. Sorry about the size of the sketch

Great job. You wont want to drive it when it's finished in case it gets dinged.

To me, the fact that it is screwed through the face of the badge and that it has the badge makers name on the back says it didn't come off a car as all the car badges I've seen are clipped or use adhesive from the rear. Also GM certainly wouldn't have someone elses name on their stuff. I would think it is probably off a Caravan or boat or similar

This may work https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1964+Glidden+Tour

I agree with Bush Mechanic. It is called a Wired Edge. If you cut the damaged part of the fender away carefully you may find the original rod or part thereof still in place. If so, you can semi form the patch, weld it in place and heat / beat the new plece around the existing rod.

If it has pressed in valves in the factory, one would have to think the manufacturer (not Ford) considered it a disposable item and when the valves failed you throw it away and get another one. All the Ford pumps I have seen have the screws and plate in them.

Spray some WD40 into the lock and it will help with turning the key and getting it in and out while you get a new key made.

On the tow truck coming home too many years ago and the car restorers/dreamers theme song which I hum as I walk around it. Too many projects but IT WILL HAPPEN. ( If I've got time.)

Except for the tail light holes the 39 and 40 fenders are the same.

"I'm, still waiting on a quote for a garage door. Once I get that I can decide whether to build or buy a door. If it comes in under 3G, I think I'm going to just bite the bullet. That will take a good month of sales to try to come up with that. I can open it back to 14 feet though and not have a worry about the cement trucks. They will be able to pour the floor without a pump truck then." Does your local concreteing services have a concrete line pump? These are like the boom pumps but they run the hose over the ground instead of through a boom and can pump the concrete across the ground up to 150 meters from the truck. They are commonly used where concrete is required inside an existing building where the boom type can't reach. It may be worthwhile contacting your local concrete plant to see what's avalible before you decide on the door.

In my part of the world a lot of people use second hand 20 or 40 foot shipping containers for storage. They are nearly indestructable, reasonably cheap to buy and you will probably get most of your money back when you finally sell it. The 20 footers can be delivered on the back of a tilt tray tow truck.

This company sells all types of rivets. https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/solid-rivets#1

I would go the relay route controlled by the original switch. As others have said, make sure each light has a good ground wire to it and also check to make sure it hasn't been fitted with 12 volt bulbs/ sealed beams if it is a 6 volt system.

Or a 1956 Ford Zodiac