ron hausmann

I agree completely with the above! Real estate selling depends upon “location, location, location”, not use. Ron Hausmann

Here is a picture of the original Kissel Gold Bug vehicle number plaque and a new one that I punched from today. This is mounted on the cowl inside the engine bay. Also shown is the paired plaque which is mounted on the right front fender base. Kissels had the vehicle numbers in these two locations. Ron Hausmann P.E.

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All, We are making good progress finally on the two remaining large pieces, the body painting and the engine. Here is the status as of January 7, 2024; 1. Body fitting and metal warping is complete! 2. New rear deck apron has been fabricated and fitted. Looking great! 3. New front apron under radiator has been fabricated and fitted. Also great! 4. Priming and painting have just started. Will start getting final layers on this month. 5. Engine rebuilding has started. Old engine is worn but repairable. After disassembly we are ok with connecting rods, block, head, and valve train. Will probably grind all valve surfaces, sleeve piston cylinders, and fit new aluminum pistons. 6. Have refurbished an antique after-market air cleaner that I will use. Stock engine had no cleaner. thanks, Ron Hausmann P.E.

All, Unfortunately, many many small shops that catered to small- job restoration stuff for guys like us have gone out of business in these last couple of years. Not enough volume to justify staying around. In Detroit, the two top antique car chrome/nickel plating companies, Fini-Finish and B&W, just went out of business this year. Less and less of these specialty folks! Ron Hausmann P.E.

Here are those E &J Model 20 lights on my Kissel Gold Bug. These were dealer installed options for the Gold Bug Speedster in 1922 and 1923. They look wonderful, but they don’t create much light in their original small bulb installation, but who drives those cars at night anyhow? Stock headlights were barrel-type as on the unrestored Bug in the last picture. Ron,Hausmann P.E.

All, As of December 19 2023 we are back at it. 1. Fitting body, fenders, aprons, and skirts together before final painting. kissel did not use stamped metal body panels. They pounded steel and aluminum sheets on mandrel bucks in batches, and then matched L and R pairs as best as they could. So there is a lot of variation on supposed symmetry of the various pieces that requires pre- fitting and shimming. 2. Shipping engine to professional rebuilder to have the ”guts” checked out. I’ve never opened up this engine. I have however rebuilt all of the piping and attachments for the engine. 3. I am sandblasting the exhaust manifold. Need to reweld a couple bolt tabs that broke off. I want to nickel the manifold to dress it up. Stay tuned. Ron Hausmann P.E.

Hursst, I have a few coffee cans full of period correct fasteners. They are cleaned but mostly a bit chewed up. That works for mos5 of the pieces that need painted bolts. Also close to my shop is an old style hardware store that still sells flat head screws in all required sizes and bolts without proof marks. And they sell hundreds of differ3nt springs too. Between those two outlets, I’m usually ok. As a last resort, Restoration supply and the internet always have what one needs. Ron

All - As of December 2, 2023, I’ve continued working on minor parts restoration as I await the completion of the main body at the painter. Below are pictures of the Kissel exhaust cutout fitting and the actual segmental muffler. On past cars I’ve usually used a more modern exhaust system and muffler. It’s less expensive and actually cannot easily be observed. And the modern mounts are more rigid. But for this Gold Bug, which I hope to make a national winner, i’m striving for 100% originality. So I'm using the original exhaust fittings. Also, the big 3” exhaust dump and piping aren’t easily found today. I had to fabricate the exhaust flap pivot shaft since the original one was broken off at the neck and couldn’t be welded. A long cut off 5/8” bolt was used but I had to cut the flap into it and create mounting screws and spring slot. Took a day. Note casting date on exhaust part - 11-12-18. Thanks, Ron Hausmann P.E.

All, getting there. Here are pictures today, November 27, 2023. Working on hood and step plate figments. The painters work is beyond excellent. Better than new. Ron

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Thanks carbking. You have superior knowledge as to these applications. And certainly are more correct. I would likewise not recommend interchanging different sized Stromberg carbs with Zenoths or Marvels. However, I have had good luck and success when interchanging different sizes and models of near-year Stromberg carbs. Stromberg OS-2 for Stromberg LB-2; Stromberg OS-1 for OS-2; and the like. Perhaps interchanging of Strombergs only is more conducive to success than other makes? Indeed, I switched out my LB-1 on my Sedanlette with a Stromberg OS-1 and the car seemingly runs with more power. I know that the Venturi flows are different, but not by much, so for these less-driven cars, I don’t think that exactness really matters. His best solution would certainly be making the M-5 work. But maybe interchanging a Stromberg M5 for an M4 gets this persons car running, so at least it can be enjoyed. While he waits years for locating a correct Stromberg M5. It won’t hurt anything and get the car going. Take care. Ron

Day, Stromberg sold dozens of adapters in the 1910’s and 1920’s which allowed you to use one size carb flange to attach to a different size. I’ve got their catalogue in fact. That SAE size for Stromberg, means the c-to-c measurement between flange bolts at the intake, as carbking says above. There is I think a 1/4” difference for each size. I’ve never seen a Stromberg M5. I have seen Stromberg M4 carbs and they are occasionally on eBay. Both are big orifices. If I were you, and not planning on racing my Seagrave, I would buy a Stromberg M4, and buy or build a small adapter to mount it to your M5 flange. Other connections for gas and carb controls would be identical. Trivia - (Stromberg M4 carbs were original equipment on 1920’s Revere cars which had Rochester-Duesenberg engines). Big beasts. Ron Hausmann P.E.

Hey Tbone8728, I live in Michigan. I have titled several cars here in Michigan which I bought without title. For those cars, once I paid the sales tax, the Secretary of State merely issued a title. It’s relatively easier than most of these posts above indicate, IF you have proof that you actually own the car and IF you have the VIN. I’ve titled several cars with just a handwritten bill-of-sale. I assume that if you have a note or letter saying that you’ve acquired ownership of that car (or estate) you have requisite proof. Then all you do is apply for a lost title at the Michigan SOS. Michigan adopted the national title registry in 2017, so the Michigan SOS will run the VIN to see if your car was ever junked or rebuilt or salvaged. If it was, the car will need to be inspected, which is troublesome and pricey. But If not, they will issue a title. Good Luck. Ron Hausmann P.E.

You are welcome!

All, Thanksgiving 2023 involved working on miscellaneous tasks. 1. Made door sills and polished and drilled them 2. Cleaned and painted exhaust cutout foot pedal 3. cleans, painted, and polished hood venting mechanism. Only Model 6-45 had these. 4. Coordinated final fitment of body and doors to chassis with Painters men. The fitting of the doors, body, trunk lids ,and other exposed wood parts (door and lid edges) are better and more aligned than when the car was new. The painters workmanship is extraordinary! Ron Hausmann P.E.

The 1922 Kissel freighter in my pictures above has a listed top speed of 17 mph. A real speed demon. Ron Hausmann P.E.

Yvonne, Lawrence, Mark. My high quality reproduction cap in this above forum string is still available at $300 plus shipping. It has a threaded hole underneath which can be adapted to whatever mount your car has. It can be shined up nicely. First buyer gets it. Let me know. Ron Hausmann

1912 Caddy, Antique truck conversations fit in well here. Especially pre-1930 trucks. The fact however is that there are far far fewer antique trucks that exist from this period than cars. Hence there are fewer discussions. I have interest in such antique trucks, mainly Kissels. They are as rare as hens teeth. But they exist. Here are pictures of my 1917 Kissel US Army Light Delivery Truck, and a Kissel 1918 Flyer and 1922 Freighter which their owners refused to sell me. (They preferred to have the sit outside and rust - a shame). Ron Hausmann P. E.

Remy type coil. Side may have markings of “284”. Used in many Remy system cars including mine. Ron Hausmann P.E.

The car will start and run. Lights will Likely work. The ammeter will read backwards. If you know it’s hooked up negative ground, I would just reverse that connection and be done with it. Ron Hausmann P.E.

WOW

What’s a Zenith Award?

All, Important day today. Body preparation is done and in primer. See pictures. Complete detailed chassis was delivered to painter today for body mounting . Then going to “metal guy” for fitting of fenders, aprons, and flat parts. Body work is absolutely beautiful with seams between hatches and body being 1/16” fitment, like a new car. Ron Hausmann P.E.

John, You might consider researching other period Kissel models to see if other non/Columbia rear axle assemblies would be able to be used. The 1927-1929 Kissel rears that I have are not Columbia. All have the Lockheed brakes. Is it possible yours wasn’t an originall? Again the Kissel parts manuals from that period would clear things up. A substitution might also solve your ratio issues. Ron Hausmann P.E.