ron hausmann

Examples

Ryan, I use the thinnest wire nails with the thinnest big heads that I can find at Lowes or Home Depot. 1”, 3/4”, 1 1/4” lengths depending on where. I actually drill the metal and pre drill the holes into the wood 1/4” or so to avoid splitting. I use a hammer and needle nose pliers to position the nails to drive them. Then I usually end up using a flat headed punch for the last whacks. That seems to set the nail deeper and is safer to avoid metal damage. Finally, I coat my nail work in risky areas with a fine coat of epoxy so that those nails won’t work free. Tedious but important work. Ron Hausmann P.E.

All - here’s an update and status as of March 12, 2022. Spent most of this past week doing wood repair. The oak and ash crossmember frames underneath the trunk supports were dry rotted. Hinges mount there so I had no alternative but to carefully chip out the wood from underneath and carve new oak members to fit. This entails taking apart the trunk drain gutters and included fitment of hinge bodies. Also loosening the metal nails. All of this is tedious carving and careful work! In process, found that of the four SOSS 121 style hinges for the two trunks, one was damaged. I’ll use it but will need to find a replacement. Kissel was a prolific user of SOSS HIDDEN HINGES, using different sizes in different models. SOSs discontinued these decades and decades ago. I’m trying to getting replacements but those are hens teeth. This coming week I’ll finish fitting the trunk lids and hinges and re- nail all of the wood and metal around those lips. Then I’ll epoxy everything down permanently. Also thought I would attach a professional photograph that I had shot of my existing Gold Bug from last year. Thanks you. Ron Hausmann P.E.

Do you have any pictures with dimensions please. I need two SOSS hinges for a 1923 Kissel Gold Bug. Big ones. I also have several EXTRA hinges SOSS from derelict Kissel 1917-1918 doors which are good but smaller than later ones Ron Hausmann P. E. 313-510-8463

For convenience I’ve used rustoleum a lot in my restorations. Not for main stuff like fenders and bodies, but small trim stuff and frames and the like. Mostly black or cream colors. It has stood up long and very well for years and years. As to using clear coat on it, I have had problems with it peeling off if I wait a day or more to apply it. It seems to stay on and stay put nicely, however, if you apply it within an hour or so of the base color paint, just when it’s drying. In those immediately applied cases, the clear has stayed on. But using the same coats of rustoleum in “gloss” looks the same and less hassle. Most rustoleum colors come in many flat, satin, semi, and glass types. Go online to see the wide set of choices. Ron Hausmann P.E.

Dan, This is covered by several fabric and then leather layers which are finish nailed into that gray ash nailer. That nailer is critical so that’s why I strengthened it with “west system” epoxy wood treatment. Take care. Ron

Status as of March 4 , 2022 1. Side seat sliders have been finish primed and ready for finishin*. 2. Side doors have been fitted and readied for full final paint. 3.:first trunk compartment has been be4n cle@mec, scrub Ed, and door replaced. 4. Have lined pro welder to help me install rivets next week. 5. Finish painted last of under seat wood caps and last of rear axle. 6. created new cove4 for hidden compartment with g trunk. thank you. ron hausmann

All - Status of restoration as of February 25, 2022. Less progress as we took some time off to vacation with granddaughter. 1. continued reinforcing, cleaning, and lubricating side seat openings. These were swollen due to moisture. 2. continued and completed rebuilding of side seats and frames. Had to replace some frayed oak. 3. Found the initials of the wood worked who carved the oak frame hidden within the side seat chamber. His initials were H. H. According to the Kissel museum who researched for me, there were two persons named Helmer Hanson and Herbert Hahn who worked in the bodywork section of Kissel factory in the 1920’s. whomeve4 carved these initials, he or she was very proud. 4. started finishing and painting the rear axle. 5. nailed and glued front steel cowl plate onto front of car. Made it 100% flush. 6. screwed and trued front seat retainer metal around front seat structure. Fit great onto my new wood. Note that most Kissel woodwork members are stamped with their “build number”. You can see it on many of these photos. This was needed because wood frames were hand built and the factory carpenters needed to keep track of matched pieces like doors, drawers, and the like. This cars build number is 15273. Next week I will get with a local welder guy to help me apply the rivets to the frame. I will also paint it then because transport now is too problematic now and I can paint it. I will also start assembling the brakes, spindle mechanisms, and springs with shakles. Thank you. Ron Hausmann P.E.

All - progress as of Super Bowl Sunday, Feb. 13, 2022. Making very steady progress on rebuilding wood! Since the car was stored statically in a dirt floor shed from 1956 until I bought it in 2016, (60 years) the dry body wood generally swelled in the damp darkness. Now that it’s in a heated garage, every original wood screw needs to be tightened. The drawer seats were gunked up and the interior slides were crusty. Now that these have been cleaned and dried, they slide well. Kissels had very meticulous wood worked frames and I’m tediously replicating every piece. Here’s progress: 1. Picked up rear axle from sandblaster and readied it for painting. 2. Removed non-stock drawer sides from side-seat mechanisms and cleaned everything left side. 3. Rebuilt left side wood on side seat slider. This involved infusing cracks and screws with epoxy. 4. Finished rebuilding front seat base and under-seat compartments. Very detailed carved oak. 5. Finished painting all the loose chassis parts yellow. Now stored for future use. 6. replaced some interior body oak at the side seat lips and heavily epoxied these parts on. In the coming two weeks I will: A. Finish rivet work on the bare frame B. Transport bare frame to sandblaster to be blasted and powder coated. C. Start sub-assembly of loose chassis components. D. Continue resurrection of side seat slides and wood. E. Start refinishing and clearning of two rear trunk compartments. Ron Hausmann P.E.

All - here is status as of Saturday February 5, 2022; 1. Continued painting numerous chassis parts yellow. Using Rustoleum JD Yellow which is a match to DuPont YS-379 which is being used for body and fenders. That color has been used on another recent Gold Bug restoration. 2. Spent several days carving the replacement base ledger timber for the body frame. Laminated several pieces of 3/4” oak together and used planer tools to recreate the part. Kind of proud of how it fits. 3. Epoxy glued new ledger timber in place and secured it with long lag bolts and thick metal plates. Nailed body panels undersides to timber. These plates and nails had to be placed carefully where they would not be visible and where they would not interfere with later Woodwork and frame. 4. Picked up rear axle which has been sandblasted next week plans - - - - a. Pant and finish rear axle. b. Start assembling steering knuckles onto front axle to be ready to mount. C. Do sub-assembly of tie rod, drag link, and connections. d. Continue woodwork for front seat compartment and side panels. e. Start fitment of side seats into openings and slides. f. Maybe build up courage to start learning propanevyorch and heating hot rivets Thankyou. Ron Hausmann P.E.

I first considered that too because of the drum headlights and the mud flapped front fender. But then I looked closer. It’s not a Kissel. Kissels in the twenties didn’t use indented fenders. And the wheel hubs are definitely not Kissel. Radiator isn’t rounded enough either. There’s a Lincoln behind it. Ron Hausmann

Bob, Since these vehicles were often brush painted in the field by troopers using a poorly described paint recipie, and since the term “khaki” can have numerous meanings, it stood to reason to me that there should be a lot of variations. I, like you have seen many different WW1 vehicles painted a wide range of colors. Really anything close is correct. My body is painted with a Rustoleum shade I’ve identified earlier in this thread. And then I added brushstrokes. To make sure it is drab. As to canvas, I just asked my top guy to match as good as he could. Thanks, Ron

Early 1921 Kissel Model 6-45 Gold Bug Speedster. Early 21’s had flat fenders and full running boards; Late 21 they changed to step plates and crowned fenders.

Hey Bob, You are a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate your information! It all helps. I am aware that the plaque I’ve mounted likely came from a much heavier FWD or Nash WW1 truck. I contacted Heil company who originally made the truck for which the plaque was made, but they have no records and were really clueless. The real (and selfish) reason that I’ve put artillery markings on this light truck, which could also be an ambulance, is more personal. I did a lot of research to do this naming. Here goes. A. Kissel made military trucks before WW1. Well documented. Even international sales. B. Kissel was located in farm country Wisconsin.. C. The US Army experimented and researched using trucks before WW1 in Wisconsin. True story. D. I was born where Kissels were made in Wisconsin. On a farm near Hartford and West Bend. E. I have since lived in Michigan for 50 years. F. In 1917 the Wisconsin and Michigan National Guards were “federalized” into the US Army 32nd Division, better known as the “Red Arrow” Division. G. As part of this federalization, the Wisconsin National Guard’s “1st Wisconsin Cavalry” became the US Army’s “120 Field Artillery Regiment”. H. Before Federalization, the Wisconsin National Guard had some motor vehicles. In all likelihood, they used Wisconsin Built motor vehicles for the Wisconsin NG. With all that military history, as well as my own personal history, I’ve recreated this light artillery truck and marked it with the Wisconsin-Michigan Red Arrow Division symbol as well as the 120th Field Artillery emblem. I always was enamored by cavalry movies as a kid, and now I can be part of that business thru this truck. Sorry for the long-winded ness . Ron Hausmann

Best of luck on your build. Your GMC chassis is longe4 than my Kissel chassis is so you will have a less tight driver compartment. once you start, you’ll find that there’s really only one way that you can frame that body, open or closed. if I am help, let me know. Ron

Bob - here you go. It was attached to a thick metal plate cut out from somewhere when I got it. I removed that remnant of plate. Ron Hausmann

All - Status as of January 28, 2022; 1. Received rivet tools, rivets, and rivet gun. Am practicing because I’ve never used a rivet gun. 2. Bought a small oxyacetylene torch setup and tools to use to preheat rivets. Buying a small furnace was the same money and I will get a lot more use out of the torch setup. Need to practice. 3. Picked up serviced radiator from radiator shop. Put unrestored radiator shroud on it to assure correct fit. 4. Continued painting brake, spring, and axle fittings yellow. Bold. 5. Started wood work reinforcement and repair on body. Wood is in pretty good shape but 100-year-old plyscore wood is delaminating so I am reinforcing it at stress points. This coming week, I hope to a. Get riveting of brackets on to frame done. I’m a bit intimidated but will move ahead with this. b. Sandblaster should be done blasting and powder outing axle, steering ,spring and other major parts. c. Drop off rear axle to be sandblasted. I will paint it because it’s liquid oil cannot take powder coat bake. d. Continue painting drive shaft and other small chassis parts. e. Continue body wood reinforcement and repairs.

Thanks Bob, I’m aware that this horn is a poison gas alarm horn as it is marked on the case. The reason I’ve mounted it here is because it’s case also has a “US Army” casting on it and a “1918” cast date. Those touches, as well as the brass “1918 Ammunition Carrier” plaque on the cowl certainly will give the vehicle an identity and some provenance. Saves a lot of question-answering! Take care. Ron

I’ve used several Neville type fat man steering wheels on my Kissel Kars. Those wheels were common in the early twenties on Kissels. Nevilles come in 17” and very rare 18”:diameters. In two cases, I’ve just machined the central holes to fit my tapered Kissel steering columns and they work fine. Ron Hausmann P.E.

Craig - that style steering wheel is commonly known as a “fat man steering wheel”. There were several styles. This one is a Neville steering wheel, used by Kissel and others as either stock or after market options. You need these on some hard to get into models. Ron Hausmann

1923 Kissel Model 6-55 Brougham Sedan

All - Update as of January 22, 2022: 1. Decided to use rivets instead of bolts after much consultation. Went to several local frame shops and learned that nobody commercially uses frame rivets. So hiring somebody is out. 2. Shopped around and bought 60 rivets 5/16”, rivet tools, and a 7x rivet hammer. Not that expensive! 3. Finished bolting in all four front spring brackets and four engine mounts. Will remove bolts progressively once riveting commences. 4. Cleaned more parts including drive shaft and universals. 5. Selected paint shop for help painting large body panels. I will do chassis and small parts and assembly. 6. narrowed down yellow colors to use to a deep yellow by PPG. Or successor to DuPont. 7. Dropped off springs, wheel hubs, drums, steering arms, and front axle to sandblaster for blasting and powder coating base coat. 8. Picked up newly serviced rear axle/differential. This coming week we plan to; a. Sand and paint rear axle/differential. b. Pick up springs and chassis parts from blaster for me to finish paint. c. Decide what finish paint color to use D. Drop off four fenders, two side aprons, and hood to finish paint shop for long term concours level painting. e. Do some test riveting and rivet heating. f. Start cleaning and finishing steering column, water outlets, water pipes, and engine looms. Ron Hausmann P.E.

Thank you! Twenties and teens Kissels use these on their spring shackle bolts. Ron Hausmann P.E.

All - Here are a few pictures of the internals of a Kissel Double Six Wiedley engine. The subject engine is not a Kissel Double six insofar as the Kissel had overhead valve springs, whereas this one has side valves. And some of the configurations don’t match. The subject engine has side rocker arms, which are very similar to those I’ve seen on some Duesenberg walking beam engines. I sure feels like it’s a duesy to me. Ron Hausmann

All - in 1917 and 1918 Kissel offered a “Kissel Double Six” model, which used a Wiedley 12 engine block. Only one survives today in Denver. Somewhere I have those technical pictures, but not now. It’s possible that this is one of these engines. Weidley 12 engines were also used in some period trucks. Ron Hausmann