ron hausmann

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Posts posted by ron hausmann

  1. 11 hours ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said:

    Ron, I know the Phillips head screws weren’t around in 1917. You made the rivet covers to hide them. The question I have is would they have used rivets or straight blade screws? Thanks Mike 

    hey mike - they probably would have used straight screw bolts, but it’s easier to fill in Phillips crosses than to try to halffill them to look like old screws. I’m lazy.😎

    thanks, Ron 

    • Like 2

  2. All -

       As of July 6, much detail work has been accomplished and body is nearing completion.

    1. Both rear fenders have been cut down In the fronts to make up for the taller truck spring height. This has eliminated much of the open area above the tires and now they look like they should, not so high. Still need to make pe4manent mounts on sides of truck.

    2. New under-seat gas tank has been pe4manently mounted and prepped. This is correct location for this style WW1 truck. Gas piping has been fabricated but won’t be installed until engine is in.
    3. Front drivers seating covers have been finished. See pictures. There will be a small walkway in between the separate front seat springs To allow acces# from front to cargo hold.

    4. First Aid cabinet above the front passenger shoulder has been completed and hardware applied.

    5. Faux rivets At the rear step gate have been fashioned to disguise The modern Phillips screw mounts.


        This week, fenders and misc. parts go to sandblaster and engine parts go to Engine rebuilder

        Sanding and painting body wil now start in earnest

        Ron Hausmann P.E.








    • Like 4

  3. 14 hours ago, Bush Mechanic said:

    Very nice build, Sir. Those new springs will have to settle six inches to fill the wheel arches, though. Have you thrown a few bags of cement in her yet, to see how it sits? I don't wish to offend, but at the moment the gap between wheel and guard is a little too large, to my eye. I reckon it's in the springs, as the hangers look to be horizontal. As the weight goes on, the hangers may need a tweak with a lever to head them in the right direction. But looking at your other builds, I'm sure you're on top of this, anyway, so I'm probably teaching my Grandmother to suck eggs. Apologies.

    bush - no offense .yes he rear fenders are too high. I will slice off the front 4-6” of both of them to bring the tops down. He rear ends of these fenders can’t be brought down because that would ruin proportions and interfere with grease fittings. They are correct fenders but the rear springs are higher, more sprung than a car. The tire in relation to the f3nder is correc5 for a 1918 fender. See 1918 Sedanlett3 picture.


    • Like 3

  4. As of today, June 24, 2020 -

    1. Rear fenders have been shaped, stretched, and mounted. Some minor repairs to be done, but they fit. This s rare because Kissel fenders were mandrel-made and then best matched at the factory. Then they were stretched on with. Inch effort. Also, I had two good right rear fenders so I had to turn a right into a left by removing the interior mud guard. You now can’t tell.

    2. Almost all compartment doors and hardware have been made and mounted. 
    3. Steering column mounts have been installed. The long column weight and torque will be distributed on the cowl and top floorboard.
    4. Seat design and dimensions relative to the steering column and pedal locations, has been done. The “fit” for the driver will be tight but quite comfortable! I might shorten the steering column shafts by 3”-4” to ,Abe it perfect but this might not be worth the three or four days effort. 
    5. All driver compartment Floorboards and instrument panel box have been finished. See pictures. Because we have a flat one board cowl, it needed a hollow behind the instrument panel to house the speedometer body, wiring, etc.

    6. Now will load up engine block and parts and take to St. Claire Engine, my Kissels engine rebuilder. 
    7. Now will work on fitment of Front fenders. Once that is done, I can reliably measure the floorboard sizes.

    8. Also located a replica French 75 cannon In rural France. This World War One Truck could function as a tow vehicle for Light field artillery And I’m debating adding a heavy hitch to do just that. And figuring out how much to pay for a fake cannon in France.

    9. Now will start first coat painting and sanding of body. I have to be careful not to do too good a job since these trucks were brush-painted by drafted soldiers in Europe in most cases. And using field mixed paints of varying quality.

    Here are pictures of a few more contemporary vehicles like mine.

    Ron Hausmann P.E.




  5. As of June 14, 2020, I’ve attached much of the door hardware, hinges, and handles.

    Also have built the rear drawbar and braces.

    And, after a lot of painstaking cutting, planing, carving, and epoxying, have rebuilt the correct front awning.

    I used unused pieces from my prior 1918 Kissel Sedanlette restoration to trim to become this awning. Very hard!

    now on to engine and painting and fenders.

    its starting to look very much like the pictures!

    Ron Hausmann P.E.










    • Like 6

  6. All - as of June 3, 2020, most of the main oak body building is complete, and now we are moving to trim pieces, hardware, doors, and such. Having started out with a very very square frame and oak slabs, the superstructure is 100% square all the way up, wh8ch really has surprised me. Next up are;

    a. Build front floorboards and cover them with pyramid vinyl

    b. Build and apply hardware for compartment doors

    c. Trim out front flat cowling

    d. Build and cover running boards

    f.  Use wood filler over all nails and wood screws. And sand it.

    g. Prime paint underbody wood and hidden spaces.

    i.  Shorten all steering column components by 6” to work and look “antique truck-style”

    j.  Free up rusted brake operatingbar fittings and  oust beneath car.

        Take care, Ron Hausmann P.E.





    • Like 6

  7. All,

       As of May 29, 2020, I am working on the to0 bows and finish carpentry to support these. I had several old NOS ones that I did not use on my last restoration laying around, so I sliced them and cut them with doweled joints to fit just right as you see. Also put braces alongside the cuts for str3ngth. I’m pretty impressed with how everything is fitting! 
       This coming week,  I’ll Permanently mount these top bows and put on the board trims alongside the bows and posts. 
       And I’ll, finish building the flat cowl features high I’ve fitted but put aside.

       I won’t finish the seat and floorboards until my new custom gas tank is delivered end of June. It floes underneath the front seat. Hope it fits.

    • Like 1

  8. 12 hours ago, hddennis said:

    Ron, truck looks great! I was looking back at your original truck photos and wonder if you have any other details. When I was researching details for my Maxwell being a former Marine I wanted to duplicate a WWI Marine vehicle. Having donated some of my late father-in-laws WWII Marine items to the National Marine Corps Museum I felt I had an "in" with the curator. He and assistants could only find one photo of a Marine marked WWI truck and it was so far away almost no markings were visible. You originally posted this photo of a WWI Kissel and it appears to be a USM? vehicle. 


    Howard Dennis182713648_KisselTruck.thumb.jpg.e95461b7f8520faa37a17beb054b8db3.jpg

    Howard - I have six old photos of this specific type of truck body, most with markings,. I don’t know if these are Army or Marine but they are in this chain. All of the cars are different makes while the bodies appear almost identical except for accommodations which would be unique to that model car. Each cowl is different. 

    • Like 1

  9. Getting there. Body is not symmetrical as the passenger side has a columnar cabinet-like structure about 6” wide by 18”.  You can see that in the photos from 1917 and 1918 if you look close. I suspect that this was to stabilize the otherwise- frail top and for storage as well. I guess having A passenger next to the driver in an army truck wasn’t customary anyway. Tomorrow I’ll start fitting the top bows.

    Ron Hausmann P.E.



    • Like 4

  10. All - as of May 19, 2020 the truck body is taking nice shape. See pictures. The steering column is purposely misplaced in these views because I had to keep it out of my way when building the oak drivers box. Please note that there are several storage compartments required in the tr)C’s walls and bench. The gas tank on light tr7cks is placed under the front seat.

        My next main steps are:

    a. Collect and load all spare engine parts for my engine rebuilder. I have three akissel 6-38 derelict engines and should. E able to get one good one out of the lot.

    b. Finish truck body superstructure to match the pictures.

    c. Blast, prime, and finish front and rear fenders and experiment with mounting rear ones.

    d. Build and test fit the running boards.

    f. Design and create rear step brackets/hitch fittings.
    g. Scrounge up non leaking radiator core.

    Ron Hausmann P.E.










    • Like 3

  11.     It’s not off topic - it’s on topic.

        I grew up on a farm a few miles away from Hartford Wisconsin. I saw several Kissels, cut down to function as tractors, as a child. They were powerful engines. 
         Moreover my father was a WW2 mechanic and we had a running US Army half track chassis that he drove for fun. 
         So I always had motor oil and Wisconsin cars in my veins.

         When my kids started graduating college I had enough money to start buying Kissels. And never stopped.

        That’s it. Ron 

    • Like 5

  12. All -  

      As of May 13, 2020, assembly of the frame components is underway. I’m kind of  designing those components as we go, since no trucks of this model survive. Note that I have purposely misplaced the steering co.umn temporarily, to keep it out of my way when fitting oak body components. 
       Challenges ahead are;

    A. reducing length of all five steering column components by six inches

    B. unfreezing major rust within brake operating rod components

    C. designing and ordering gas tank that can actually be filled and gauged with this body on

    D. Designing and creating instrument box cluster for this unique configuration

    E. Making a light artillery hitch that is strong, big, and will work for a small towed piece.

         Stay tuned! Ron Hausmann P.E.





    • Like 2

  13. Larry - thanks for your note. Yes let’s get together soon.

    All - here are current pictures as of May 9, 2020. Body sills are ready to go on. Body aprons have been finished with one coat of camo. Body frame and framed cowl are ready to be mounted permanently on those pieces. Ran out of sill padding so ordered some. This week will star5 doing assembly and she will start looking truck-ish.

    Ron Hausmann P.E.






    • Like 1

  14. Thanks alsancle, 

       The pictured car is misidentified as a 1924 Kissel - it’s actually a 1922 or 1923 Model 6-45 Kissel. The top hood vent identifies it as such. I believe this actual car survives and is being restored in New Hampshire right now!

    ron hausmann  

  15. All - Getting back to restoration now that immediate danger is past! I tested NEGAT8VE for COVID19 on Tuesday, April 21 2020,after testing positive on April 1. 
        below are pictures of a 1917 Kissel model 6-38 Light Army Truck cowl, cowl framing and dash instruments casting. The casting rebuild described in post above is coming along well. Just in need of more cosmetic work. Look close.
        The cowl metal piece was tricky. I cut off the front end of an old car cowl. Try cutting a three-dimensional flared metal cowl completely flat! That new cowl piece required front and back framing to strengthen it. That framed cowl will carry the steering column, instruments, hood, and front framing which requires much strength and rigidity. I carved these pieces out out solid oak.

       More to follow. Ron Hausmann










    • Like 7