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OLBUICKS

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Everything posted by OLBUICKS

  1. Who sell remanufactured starters for 38 Special straight 8.... Also is there any one who sells starter solenoids.
  2. There was a thread awhile back about installing high torque fields in the late 30s starters on straight 8s for faster starting, I'm going to have a local shop over haul my starter and was wondering where I could get these...
  3. I bought every thing from Bob's, with bead, he sells very small screws to help hold it in place, I took small peices of felt after I was finished a glued it over the screw heads so the glass would not come in contact with the screw heads.. Also if you have your door completly stripped be sure to install your door latch first.. I just finished my doors about a moth ago, nice winter project..
  4. I had all new window cut from a local glass shop. I installed new tracks as well. What causes a lot of windows crack is where people put screws or rivits in the felt tracks. I bought small screws from Bob's and just used a couple to secure the channel. I tore out small peices of felt about 1/4" length and glued it over the screw heads, you can't tell that it's even there. This will keep the glass coming in direct contact with the screw heads. Besure to get your side measurments correct or it will rub against the channel when you roll the window up and down, use the old glass to get it
  5. Got it fixed.. one of the 4 screws that holds the regulator was a little too long..
  6. I just finished a 2 day job replacing the door glass, new felt, in my 38 coupe. After completion my door glass on the drivers side lacks 1/2" of going all the way down.. All my side adjustments are good, regulator seems to be good, and it rolls up and down very smooth, but stops about 1/2" from going all the way down. The teeth look very good on the regualator. I can't see any thing inside to cause a problem.. Ant ideas? Or is the as far down this window goes? My 38 4 door glass goes all the way down..
  7. Got it done... kind of a tough job, but the main thing I was careful of making sure the glass was in the right positition in the lift channel so it would not be too far left or right and rub the sides. I installed the glass in position before the final setting and aligned the glass where I wanted it and marked it with masking tape, and a marker. I talked to a local glass shop in town and he said, not to totally glue it in but use a couple layers of friction tape and glue, so if I ever needed to take it apart the tape will let the window come out of the channel much easier. I did have
  8. Restoring the doors on my 38, and was wondering if I used JB Weld to glue my window channels in place instead of small screws.. I see so many old cars with door glass cracked because of the screws. Any any one used this method? Also where can I get the door seal clips? Thanks
  9. Thanks for your reply. Here is some answers to your replys. The car is never in the rain, garage keep, gaskets are good, bulbs are from Bob's, I think his products are very good. Had the generator rebuilt 2 years ago, puts out 7.3 volts, my thoughts are heavy discharge at idle,then to 7.3 out put may be a problem, or head light switch, remember it has one position that turns the right head light off when you are passing a car. I will replace the buss bar, and the right socket. which could be shorting, but looks new. This will be my start. Thing is I never drive the car at night, but I'am
  10. On my 38 Special my right head light buld "the originial bulbs" keep burning out. I'm 99% sure it's not a wiring problem, rewired 3 years ago. I put the new brighter bulbs in. I know some thime the glass breaks loose when you install them, but I super glue mine at the base before I install them... any ideas? It's alway the right side bulb...
  11. I would also pull the oil pan off and clean out the sludge. It could get sucked up in the pick up and completly shut your oil supply off.. I pulled mine after reading where some one posted on this site they burn up their engine,,, glad I pulled mine off, it was a mess,also raised my oil pressure,,, simple job, just drop the sway bar and it's a straight shot... good Luck... As said in these replys use only non detergent oil, or your engine will come apart..
  12. 1938 Buick model 47 on ebay.. rare car needs restored, barn find...
  13. I have a 1938 model 47 special slant back with dual side mounts. It's all original. I will not drive it down there. I''m going to see about a hauler to take it to Charlotte.. BCA sent me a letter wanting me to bring it down there because it's a rare car. I will have to see what the cost of all this will be...
  14. I have a 1938 4 door Special model 47 slant back with factory dual side mounts, unrestored, is there any of these registered?
  15. How many are going to the Nationals in June?
  16. I bought a adapter that goes on the wiper transmission for my 38 that you don't use the acron nut. It goes over the splines and has a screw that threads in where the acorn nut screws in to hold it on. Then you can use the fine spline wiper arm like used on Chevrolets. I couldn't get the Acon Nut to start threading on the spline is the reason I installed this part.. Depends on how originial you want to keep your car. I found these on e bay..
  17. America Collectors insured my 38 for $102 yearly, for $9000. They quoted me little over $200 yearly for my 69 Charger for $25G
  18. Love my 38 Special model 47. Gets lots of thumbs up!
  19. Generator is always putting out a good charge while driving.
  20. Charges good, even at full charge, same thing
  21. I think I will take it back to the shop to go ahead and clean it out, put in new brushes and bearings
  22. Thanks for all the replys. The pos cable is large, the neg cable is not quite as large, I will replace both of them with the suggestions I have read here, as for the generator the same guy I took the starter to today rebuilt the generator lat year, and it puts out 7+ volts. I do not drive the car after dark, so there is no drain at idle as far as that goes with head lights, I will keep in touch with the problem after I get new battery cables.. Thanks for all your reply's. This is my first dealing with straight 8 engines, and thought it was a slow cranker like old Dodges with early hemi's.
  23. My 38 straight cranks some what slow all the time, and after I drive for awhile I try to restart it, it cranks very very slow, infact will not start until enging cools off, the enging runs good, good oil pressure. It acts like a starter that drags after the engine runs to temp, I took my starter to a rebuild shop today to get it rebuilt, "this guy has rebuilt alt. generators, and starters all his life" put it on his machine and it's pulling 130 amp, which is good. Last year I bought a 8 volt battey and put in the car, cranked great, but I could not get the car to charge with the 8
  24. No one has mentioned that there is a grease fitting under the car at the MC that may need some new grease. It's where the clutch and brake pedal pivots on a shaft under the car.. Just a thought..
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