caddyshack

After college I was able to purchase two early ('04 Cad and '12 Brush) vehicles. Not knowing exactly what I had, I found the research side of the hobby to be the most rewarding. Back in the early '70's I also had to purchase 3 year bonds in relation to the title search, before a title and plates could be issued. This 3 year period meant no work on the vehicles. During this period, restoration methods, parts searches, and verification of build sheets were all valuable experiences. Later purchases (Ford T's and A's) let me do more hands on tasks like body work, electrical, welding, etc.. It was all fun. Now in my mid 70's it's time to let others do the work for me. I find that today, I enjoy helping others or bringing a vehicle to local car gatherings and letting the younger generation ask some of the darnedest questions.

I use the standard Harbor Freight dollies at home under a 62 Corvette, '26 Ford T, and Chevy Tahoe sometimes. Price was very reasonable and they work fine in the garage. Also have a 21 foot pontoon sitting on them at the cabins garage. Really easy to move the boat against the wall for winter storage. Good luck, I would recommend these.

I put 10 gallons of ethanol gas in my '62 Corvette, by mistake, just before storing it for the winter. A couple of months later we smelled gas in the basement and could not figure out the cause. Looked around in the garage and saw a pool of gas on the floor of the attached garage. Could have blown the house up. After cleaning up the mess I found that the fuel pump diaphragm was eaten away as well as all the rubber hoses. That next spring all items from the gas tank to the carb were replaced. Dumb mistake cost hundreds of dollars and many hours of aggravation.

Bought this '70 SS Chevelle in late '69 and drove while in college and after graduation for three more years. That car was amazing, cowl induction, high hp, 4 speed, great highway cruiser. Really miss that one. Married, kids on the way, and new career meant a larger family car in 1974 however. Skip in MN.

I assume you know which valve is inlet and which is exhaust. Inlet near steering column. The following info comes from the Model D instruction book, reprinted by "Brush Owners Association" 2/95. "Inlet valve opens after the piston has moved down 1/16" past dead center and closes when the piston has moved up 13/16" on the second stroke. The spark should occur a little before or after the end of the second stroke. The exhaust valve opens 7/16" before the end of the third stroke and closes 1/16" after the end of the fourth stroke, just before the inlet valve opens." The article does not say how high the inlet valve opens, but My model "F" opens up about the same as the exhaust valve. If you did not replace the valves, springs, clips, etc., grinding in new valves and seats is not easiest job and requires great care. I let the local engine rebuilders do this. Hope this helps, maybe others would like to comment also. Good luck.

Tyler, Magnificent story and photos. Thanks for sharing this early segment of automotive history. Skip in MN.

When I was born in 1947, my first and favorite car was 43 years old (1904 Cadillac) and my second favorite was 35 years older (1912 Brush) which I still own. Many Model T's and A's later and pretty soon they all become your favorites. The '62 Vet is still the favorite all around car. Skip in frozen MN.

Back in the early 1960's we used a product called "Heat" and added it to our gas tanks to prevent gas line freeze ups in the winter. It was the same straight alcohol used in ethanol today. My high horsepower autos never had a problem with "heat" products, and when warm weather came we quit using it. Today you don't have that option. Regular, non ethanol, gas is still available in my area but the higher octane additives are needed for better performance. I used ethanol gas in my '62 Vet years ago, by mistake, and had to replace every rubber gasket, hose, fuel pump diaphragm, gas tank items, etc. for hundreds of dollars. Now, I only keep regular non ethanol gas on hand for all small engines and boat motors. I won't even keep a spare can of ethanol gas in the garage. It would evaporate faster than I could use it. Just venting, I hate the stuff.

That probably is a deal breaker concerning your freight and fabrication charges from Australia. In any case, you do very nice work and wishing you all the best for the holiday season. Happy motoring! Skip in MN.

Boxhead, Those are great looking fenders, and I too would be interested in the purchase of the two front fenders. I have a Model F that has two miss matched fenders and new replacements have been on my mind recently. Rootlieb makes them also, and I would need to furnish mounting hardware. Is your fabrication the same way? The front fenders do not show the mounting bracket that attaches to the frame near the running board. Very nice work, keep us posted. Thanks, Skip in MN.

Personally I have always been drawn to the very early autos. One of my first autos was a 1904 Cadillac, then a '12 Brush, then Model T and A Fords. The research and documentation was almost as much fun as finding them. Wood bodies, lightweight channel frames, wood axels, wooden frames, one cylinder motors, chain driven, it was all fascinating. Along with this early hobby I started with muscle car daily drivers. Vettes and Chevelles primarily. I guess when you get locked in on a specific manufacturer you kind of develop a passion as they evolve over the years. In my 70's I still enjoy the same same stuff I did 50 years ago. Just a habit I guess.

No, they were accessory items and not furnished at the factory. The headlight forks and side lamp brackets were furnished by the factory according to their parts listing.

The notches in your hubcap are there for tightening your hubcap with a spanner wrench that fits into the notch. My 1904 caps had similar notches. I would have guessed your cap was 1908/09 era. Very nice cap, thanks for posting. Skip

I was pheasant hunting in Iowa and my 1980 Ford Bronco did not have any clutch at 30 mph in a very remote area. Was with my young son and I was quite concerned and did not want to shut off the truck and be stranded in no mans land. Pulled over and just turned off the ignition while still in gear. The pin and cotter key were missing from the tranny connection and nothing in the tool box would even come close to working. There was a telephone pole with a dozen or so nails in it, so I removed the largest nail and was able to reconnect the clevis to the tranny using the nail as the pin. Drove 140 miles home and was never so thankful. Just another weed in the garden of life. Skip

Lived in Hawaii while in the Navy and loved it at first, but then I realized that I was always driving in a circle to nowhere. Give me lakes, rivers, forests, green grass and I will call it home. When you live on an island and they have an interstate highway designation, it's time to move.

I typically don't name the autos, but this one had a couple of names that I can't mention when the fuel system got eaten up by ethanol gas. And, when the master brake cylinder failed and leaked fluid all over the carpet. The names were quite close to words used back in my Navy days. In the mid '80's someone called it "Casper" and that kind of stuck. When I asked, why Casper, he said it was like a ghost. Here one minute and gone the next. It's fast, but not that fast.

Definitely '26/'27 Ford T wire wheels. Appear to be in nice condition. I have 2 full sets of wheels as shown in your photo with standard T wire wheel hubcaps, and a beautiful set of late '27 wire wheels that used the larger AR style model A wire wheel hubcaps. Thanks for posting.

That radiator looks exactly like my '12 Model F. Only problem is that it is an all steel radiator and outer shell. Painted body color. Earlier styles were brass however. Check with a magnet if in doubt.

In my community the answer to congested traffic lights is to remove the lights and install "round abouts". It is like a dog chasing its tail and some people really have problems with making a turn on a round about. I know that truckers just love them when they have deliveries in the city. Really takes some getting use to.

Liberty and Model F Brushes were made in 1912 Model year. Some may have been made in late 1911 but were still called a 1912 model. Serial numbers were used for registration and the Selden Plate patent numbers were discontinued before 1912.

Tires that old and cracked have little value, other than period correct for display purposes. Tires that old are not safe for any road application. I would list for "best offer" and hope for a taker. Good luck.

Hi Adam. Could you verify if there is a Brush logo or a star shaped logo on your step plate(s). Thank you. Skip in MN.

Any photos out there of an original Liberty step plate? I have only seen one, and that was at Homer Edmiston's auction many years ago. That step plate had a Brush logo, very similar to early Cadillac step plates.

Don't think it's an "A" model, but definitely a "BC" model.

Model D, Rectangular steel with tall (4") sight glass on the dash Model E, I have seen both. I am not sure if they were carried over from the D Model. Model F, Round Brass tank with (2") brass sight glass on the dash. Skip