caddyshack
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Posts posted by caddyshack
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Congrats Paul. That is a very interesting Brush. My first impression when I saw this post was Wow! But I thought it was earlier than 1911. The engine has had quite a few repairs over the years and the typical motor number area had a weld very near where the number was stamped. The magneto was also interesting. I have not seen one on a 1911 before. Keep us posted on your findings, it is truly a magnificent find. The research and documentation is the fun part. Skip in MN.
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Where are you located Scott if we wanted to see the car? Thanks
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Where are you located?
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Jonah, Thanks for the sketch.
It is very similar to my coil box and this spring I will try to get the Brush running.
Skip in MN.
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Thanks for the responses, and especially Scott who provided valuable pictures. The coil shown turns out to be a vibrating coil used on Fords and other early vehicles. I had misplaced the original coil box 20 years ago when I started restoration. The box shown has a Brush switch plate added with no plug connection. I purchased this box 10 years ago thinking it was an original Brush item. Wrong, now I have the right box and will use the switch plate to rebuild it correctly. Skip in MN.
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2 hours ago, Paul schaefer said:
The terminals would connect as follows C terminal to the timer, B terminal to battery positive, M was for magneto (not used on your car), and the ground from the battery to the engine frame. Hope this helps. Paul
Thanks Paul, I agree with this, but I still don't know where the coil to spark plug wire attaches.
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Thank you M. Sinclair. I have this diagram, it is included in the Brush Model D "Instruction Book". Unfortunately the terminal connection letters do not correspond to my coil box. I have a coil box without the Magneto switch, and it is a Jacobson-Brandow Co. box, but it was for a Ford T. Might work on the Brush, but I would prefer to use original parts. Thanks again, Skip
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Can anybody provide a simple wiring diagram for a 1912 Brush. The attached coil box is original, but the auto never had a magneto system. The bottom connections are marked M (left side), C (center connection), and B (right side). I lost the sketch that I made years ago when I started tearing things apart. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you. Skip in MN.
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M. Sinclair. This is a photo of the cut-out pedal on my 1912 F Brush. I am not sure if this will help you, but the pedal is roughly 3 inches high from the floorboard. The arm below the floorboard is 2 inches long. I will keep looking for the spare Model T Ford cut-out that I replaced years ago. I know it is similar. Good luck with your search. Skip in MN.
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If interested, call or email me to come and see the vehicle.
Always open to offers, but I won't sell another auto without the buyer looking it over first.
Currently selling locally with an asking price of $19K.
Any questions, please contact me.
Thanks,
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On 5/27/2023 at 4:01 PM, Nash34 said:
Hello
Do you have your Brush for sale still?
Not at this time. I am selling two other vehicles before the Brush. I will list the Brush on this site and locally later this summer or early fall. Thanks for asking. Skip
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To answer a few questions so far;
1 It is titled and licensed in MN.
2. The interior is original.
3. There are top bow irons that need restoration and replacement of top bow wood.
4. A Selden Patent Plate was not issued for 1911 or 1912 Brush autos.
5. The front headlight fork is missing, and there are no headlights either.
6. Both drive chains are there.
Any more questions please ask anytime.
Skip
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Thinking of selling this spring, but need some feedback from fellow Brush owners. Attached is an older photo of my project that started in 1979. Parts were needed, and most items have been found. The motor does not run yet, and the correct front fenders are still needed (have originals). Selling price is not fixed yet, and that is where I could use your feedback, either good or bad. More pictures in April when the snow clears.
Thanks,
Skip in MN.
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Did not have any trouble bringing women, including my future wife, back and forth from college in 1965 in this modified 1956 Corvette. Three people crammed into the seating area made shifting the 3-speed a little challenging however. Skip in MN.
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On 12/14/2022 at 5:45 AM, Restorer32 said:
Once had a job applicant who claimed she could tig weld 2 pieces of aluminum from packs of cigarettes together and she had pics to prove it.
Bet she could weld a broken heart and the crack of dawn too.
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This is a great thread. Previously mentioned autos really do look better with the top down. In my case I like the hardtop and the convertible top down. Skip in MN.
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My first thought was a 1904 Knox runabout. Very interesting photos, thanks for posting.
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Greg, I pulled the floor boards over the weekend and used lighting, mirrors, etc., and still did not find any stamping on the transmission, just raised part numbers. Years ago I removed the grime and paint from the transmission and it is possible that during that process the number could have been filled in with new primer and paint. The number in Scott's photo does not look like the sharp number stamps used on the cylinder head. Maybe it is just wear over the years. Glad to see that Scott found some verification however. Wish more people would respond.
Skip
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Hi Greg,
The transmission will only have a part number. The serial number (originally called the motor number) is only found on top of the cylinder head and the brass I.D. plate attached to the seat kick board or dash. In the "Price list of parts" reprint book they refer to the motor number in these two locations for the Brush Models D, E, F, and Liberty. My F model does not have a Trans Number as listed in your post. Hopefully others will respond with their findings. Good luck with your search.
Skip in MN.
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The passenger side front fender on the right is the correct style for '12.
I am looking for the same style for the drivers side front fender. Used condition is fine, but has to be in restorable condition. Anyone that had new fenders made and might want to part with their old dented fender would be appreciated.
The fender on the left in the photo is a different design and may have been a fabricated repair. Just trying to make them look the same.
Thanks, Skip in MN.
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I am probably dating myself, but when I first got serious about repairing and tuning my first "real" car ('56 Vette). I purchased the following inexpensive tune-up devices made by RAC in the early '60's.
Dwell tachometer, Engine Vacuum and Fuel Pump tester, Compression tester, and Timing light. Along with an S-K socket set.
These items kept me out of the repair shops, unless it was something more serious.
Oh well, we had to start somewhere. Still have the darn things in a box, can't seem to throw anything away.
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At my age it is hard to remember what I had for dinner last night let alone 60+ years ago getting my first old car. Might miss a couple but here goes.
Before;
'27 Chevy Sedan
'28 Chevy Sedan
'26 Ford Sedan
'30 Ford Coupe
'56 Corvette
After;
'29 Ford Coupe
'29 Ford Sedan
'24 Ford Touring
'04 Cadillac B Touring
'12 Brush F
'62 Corvette
'26 Ford Coupe
'27 Ford Chassis
'21 Ford Roadster
'66 Chevelle (2) ss Convert. and std model
'70 Chevelle ss cowl inducted
Most have changed hands over the years, but what a journey it has been. At least we have stayed married for the last 53 years and have stayed fairly healthy. Some friends have not been so lucky. Happy motoring to all. Skip in MN.
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25 minutes ago, 46 Lincoln EFN said:
Hello all!
what’s an spc?
As for the oil coming out of the exhaust come to think of it I did I did spray blaster small engine tuneup in it and and use a compressor to Disperse the oil to try to clean the valves. It was black like oil and a car smoked like a fiend for 5 minutes, it Eventually stalled. I do have low compression on the side that is running , 65 psi on 11 ( no spark and good compression on passenger side, coil issue I believe )
If oil coming out of the exhaust is not a normal symptom of a problem , then it must be the spray I put in. I had forgotten that when this happened, it kinda freaked me out , hopefully the valves are just bad on 11
Thank you all for your help I really appreciate it
Everett
I think you meant sbc., which is a small block Chevy motor. Sounds like an engine rebuild is in order. Good luck.
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My 1912 F Model had a 6" high wooden box that held 8 dry cell batteries. From what I can tell there was no hold down device because the dry cell batteries were fairly tall and were installed by removing the passenger seat. They were not going to bounce out of the box in any case. I did not find any paint on the battery box, just dirty and oily from years of wear. If you are not interested in original design, make a wooden frame under the seat that is the size of your modern battery. Drop it in and wire it up. It won't go anywhere.
Good luck, Skip in MN.
1912 "F" Brush
in Brush Automobiles
Posted
The Brush is still for sale.
$19K or reasonable offer. These are desirable autos and hard to find.
Selling as is, and will include all literature, books, parts, and info relating to this auto.
Found the correct coil this past winter, but have not checked it out or installed it.
Thanks in advance, Skip in Bloomington, MN.