markss8

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About markss8

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  1. markss8

    1950 Chiefton Steering Help

    there are three adjustments on the steering gear and they must be done in the proper order. the proceedure is too lengthy to put in here, so if you can't get hold of a service manual, let me know and i'll fax the pages to you, or mail copies.
  2. markss8

    Parts Manual

    i found a PONTIAC WHOLESALE PARTS CATALOG on ebay. it has a yellow cover and has dozens of expanded pictures and drawings which indicate the group number, not the part number. by referring to the picture and then to the text listing of part-numbers by group, i have been able to identify all of the part numbers for everything i have looked at so far with no ambiguity.
  3. markss8

    WTB- 1950 Chiefton Hood Hinge Springs

    i have the same problem with my 50 chieftain.. the hood sits at half-mast. i saw a set of springs on ebay last month, the seller stated that he had replaced his with NOS and that it did not make any difference (and he did not bother to swap them back and thus was selling his original springs). i believe california pontiac restoration has springs. can anyone confirm that even new springs don't hold the hood all the way up? the geometry is such that the springs are almost completely relaxed with the hood in the up position, and at greatest extension with the hood closed.
  4. markss8

    Voltage regulator 6 volt-HELP

    i'd like to hear more about the 6v alternator for the 50 pontiac, guys. in particular, what alternator & bracket, internal or external regulator, and what you did to run inverters for 12v acessories. thanks!
  5. the bleeders on my 50 pontiac have a female threaded port to accept a bleeder tube (kent-moore #j-747) so that brake fluid wont run down the backing plate and into the drum. i don't know what this thread size is, tho it seems close to a 10-32. anybody know? i want to reverse pressure flush/bleed the system and so i'd like to make up a tube to thread into the wheel cyl bleeders. i've considered replacing the old style bleeders with modern nipple-type, but i am not sure if the seat dimensions are the same. if anyone has had some experience with this, please let me know. thanks!
  6. markss8

    1950 Silverstreak

    hi guys! just thought i'd tack this post on to the string of 50 chieftain posts already running rather than start a new one. just found this site and registered today. my 50 chieftain 4 door deluxe is taragon green... a repaint about 20 years ago, i gather from a show brochure written by the original owner. he states the original paint formula is no longer available and provided the one he used to get a close match. she's a beutiful car, one-family-owned for 58 years!! i've been going through all the electrical, just cleaning the terminals and repairing a few bad "twist and tape" jobs on a couple of wires. other than that, the car has no issues and drives great! i spent a couple of days de-musting the underside of the dash, with pine-sol to get 58 years worth of dust out of there, rubbed out the dash with polishing compound, and polished all the chrome first with turtle wax chrome cleaner/polish, then a second pass with a polish called maas, which i got at the hardware store. this stuff comes in a toothpaste tube and works great on chrome, stainless, brass, and copper. the original hood ornament was solid chrome and in perfect condition; but i found a nicely rechromed light-up one and put it on. now i'm looking for the lamp socket and wire to illuminated it, though i did make a nice one with a single-wire socket from an auto parts store. i modified this socket so that it has a better ground than that provided by the mounting clips which catch the hole in the stainless hood panel ( i believe that is stainless, and stainless is rather resistive ) to make a better ground, i drilled into the side of the socket just below the contact disk and attatched a seperate ground wire using a sheet metal screw. i made one other improvement in a ground for the hydromatic shift indicator lamp, which also relies on good continuity through the indicator housing to the steering column tube. i took a short piece of brass strip and locked it down to the indicator with the lamp housing mounting screw. the other end of the strip runs down 1 1/2" and brushes against the inside of the indicator housing plate. this is a better ground than the factory set-up, which relies on current to pass along the plated indicator needle body. i was getting about 4 ohms across this plated piece and of course now almost 0 ohms across the brass strip. i could tell that the original circuit was resistive because the spring-loaded contact was pretty green compared to most the other terminals and contacts i've been over--even the ones under the hood looked better than this one. anyway, blah-blah-blah!! just wanted to say hi to everbody and offer what i could as a newcomer. from what i have read, the name silver streak refers to the engine, not to the body syle. i think i read this on the wiki site, thought i know those contributions are not always athoritative. markss8