platt-deutsch

put a test light on the wire on the S/G unit and it should light with 12 volts when you hit the starter button. If not, It is probly the start switch contacts or battery cable. What year is it? It is probly 12 volt Pos.. Ground. Either polarity will work but Ampmeter will read backwards..

It is a special link. There is a large nut with notches all around it. There is a steel washer behind this large nut that has ears that are folded into one or 2 of the grooves so it wont loosen. Just use a punch and get those ears out of the grooves and use a punch to tap the nut loose. It is right hand threads. The S/G unit will slide out to the right. There is a ring in there about a inch thick that has the hole for the end of the S/G unit drilled off center. This sleeve is held in place with a bolt and locknut . This is the chain tightner for the chain. Dont get the chain too tight or it will wear very fast. When removing the chain link be sure to take some wire and hold the chain so it dont drop into the engine as its a trick to get it back in place without pulling the front cover off the engine but it can be done using a lath or a yardstick and a piece of wire to fish it back in place, not fun. Hope this helps you.

On my 25 there is a nut in the center of the point cam and it is easily loosened with a large screwdriver and allows the cam to turn to any position you want. When #1 cylinder is coming up on compression use a screwdriver to know when it is at TDC (top dead center) and turn the engine 8 more deg. There will be a mark that is "I". With the spark lever retarded adjust so the rotor will send spark to #1 plug and the points are just breaking. Look at ampermeter to determine when points break with ignition on.

Just loosen the screw in center of the cam in the distributor and put it where you want it.. Not necessary to mesh the dist. to any certain place.

Yes.. If the secondary is open it is no good.. Same with the primary.. If it has a short in the secondary coil (even one turn) its toast and only way to see that is on a scope. If you send me the coil I would be glad to test it .

I build the replacement coils for Meyer Early Dodge Parts. The original 12 volt coils had primary resistance of 4.2 Ohms. The secondary has one sides grounded to the threaded stud that holds the steel wire magnetic core around the coil and the other lead is the silver button on the side of the coil. The secondary will measure about 3500 ohms. If it is the late 26 it would be 6 volt and the primary resistance will be about 2.5 ohms and secondary is 3500 ohms. You will need a coil tester to get a good test.

The meet is in Ames Iowa this week and they are there.

Could the small vent tube on the top be plugged?

Adjust the clutch linkage so there is only about 3/4 free pedal at the top of the stroke. That will cause the plates to separate farther when you depress it.

Not sure where to obtain one but there are solar panel battery chargers available. Google it and I am sure you may find one..

I drain every fall and in the spring I use water only with a bottle of water pump lubricant with the water. It is water soluble oil and I seldom have leak and don't have to retighten the packing nuts very often.

Silver solder it back on the shaft.

Looks to me like the ones on my 25 sedan would be easy to make. All you need is a pressbrake and some 16 GA sheet metal.

If you send me the lock I will fit keys to it and take it apart and clean it so it works properly Siebring Lock Box 36 George, IA 51237

I drive my Model A Ford Coupe 55 to 60 mph if I am in a hurry.. Never heard of a windshield blowing out..

If its a permanent magnet motor the rotation will reverse with the polarity of the voltage applied. Think of a electric drill, it has a motor with brushes also and it will always run the same direction unless you would reverse the wires to either the brushes or the field coils. Turning the fan blade around will also not change the direction of the airflow. So, to change the rotation reverse the wires on the brushes. The wires to the brushes or the orientation of the end cap that holds the brushes would cause it to run in opposite direction.

Try pressing in the latch and then pull the lock out.

Buffing wheel and polishing compound?

Wasn't Starter/Generator also used for about the first 1/2 of 1926?

You are using a 12 volt battery I assume..?

Yes the upper lug should have a brass strap to the ground. The car is Positive ground. With the plugs out or in it should spin the engine so maybe engine is stuck as you don't have a Crank to see.. With gear shift in High (to right and forward) Backward transition if you move the car the engine should turn over.

I have the ribbed manifold but don't have the proper shroud around it to take the heat and direct it into the cab. Anybody know who would have one available.. Winter is almost here.. My A is a 1930

Timer = Distributor points

You will need about a 25 watt resistor. The 1 watt aint gonna do it. 4 amps X 6 volts drop is 24 watts.

I can still make keys to fit them and I have the blanks. I need code number and works much better if I have the lock as some are really gummed up and need to be taken apart completely to clean out properly..