Jump to content

SMB

Members
  • Posts

    338
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SMB

  1. Hi Don, I ordered a pair from Grump's Garage. Cost about $23 shipped. They are stainless so they can be polished. Hope they fit. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  2. While cleaning up I noticed the 1936 President left front fender. I used the front portion to repair my 37 fender. The back half of the fender is very usable and with no dents. I would bring the back half for $25. Pictures upon request. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  3. Since nobody here seems to know I ordered a set and will find out. If they fit I'll pass the information on here. If they don't I'll just have to pass them on to a Ford owner.
  4. I have seen DIY videos on repairing temp. gauges so I would think it could be repaired by someone who specializes in restoring gauges. Try and internet search for "temperature gauge repair". <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  5. I'll be riding along with Ken Voigt and will bring the following parts if they are spoken for ahead of time. I can email pictures. I have a suggested price - if you wish to offer more feel free to do so. I will also ship any of the parts if you wish to pay the freight. Please email BROWNSL3@PIE.MIDCO.NET for pictures or questions. 1937 President parts: 1. Complete differential w/brakes $50 (will not ship) I'll have to check with Ken to see about room for this. 2. 1 wheel - 16 x 4.5 ---- 5x 5.5 pattern for 9/16 lugs $25 3. full set of lug nuts 9/16" 10 RH and 10 LH $25 4. complete front brake parts removed from the hubs: drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, backing plates, etc. $50 5. fuel pump - GONE 6. Heater - GONE 7. Electro Vac GONE TRADE? I need a 37 Pres. ashtray and throttle knob. 1966 Cruiser parts: 1. Flight-o-matic -GONE 2. Cast alternator bracket GONE 3. Starter -for parts ? Has dirt in it. Bolts incl. $5 HEATER, ELECTRO VAC, BRACKETS , FOM and FUEL PUMP ARE SPOKEN FOR. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  6. I posted this on the SDC forum a couple days ago with no response so I'll give it a try here. I'm using my original wiper arms and discovered that they are worthless in even a light rain. However I have found that I can buy reproduction 37-40 Ford Open car/40 Ford Closed car wiper arms that are the same length and have the same mounting system using a wiper arm nut. Just wondering if anyone has tried these and found them to fit the shafts on 37 (and some other 30's models) Studebakers. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  7. I'm looking for a 37 President ash tray. I don't need the slide. I also would like to find an undented 37 President throttle knob with shaft. The wire, escutcheon, etc are not needed. Please reply to: BROWNSL3@PIE.MIDCO.NET <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  8. Try Tanks Inc. I didn't check but know they have reproductions. I had good luck with them.
  9. I hope this is not a duplicate post but I cannot find my original. Anyway, I suggest putting an audible signal in the wiring for your turn signals. It is easily done and only costs about $5. I found that without it I very often left the blinker on. :eek: Here is a link to the description of how to build the signal and the parts needed. They are readily available at Radio Shack. <cite>www.freightlinerchassisownersclub.org/Documents/.../TurnSignalBuzzer.pdf</cite> <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  10. OK, I now have some pictures of the 41-48 Chevy tank in a 37 Studebaker. I already emailed these to the two interested parties but will post them here also. If anyone has questions just email me. Steve <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  11. Hi Don, My tank had the same problem and I did not want to deal with rust, etc. in the fuel. However, I screwed up about having pictures. I will just copy the reply I sent to the other Don: <style></style>Hi Don, I am embarassed - I don't have pictures. I was sure I had taken some but apparently not. The car is about 3.5 hours away getting upholstery done and I may have it back in a week or 3 weeks at the latest with cooperation of the weather. I can get pictures taken then. However, it was an easy swap. I used the original top mounting straps and the lower ones which were provided with the tank. I centered the tank between the frame rails. I shortened the pickup tube and made a hole in the crossmember so I could hook up to the fuel line with a rubber line and clamps by going through the hole. The filler tube can be mounted at several angles so I used the position which would allow it to clear the frame rail and the floor of the trunk and shortened it. My filler tube still is held to the frame with the original bracket. I built a support bracket which attaches to the inner stone guard (?) and holds the upper part of the tube in the proper location . Bob Drake (a parts vendor) sells a flexible gas filler tube made just for applications like this for about $25 I think. It can be cut to length. That and a couple clamps and it was done. The tank does have a vent which I routed up under the fender. If you use a vented cap it may be unnecessary. The tank I used is found in the "bargain room" at the Tanks Inc. website. It is #48RCG-BR-S and is $125 = shipping and their shipping was fast. I will get pictures as soon as I can and I apolgize for not having them. Let me know if you have any other questions. Steve I have your email and will have pictures as soon as I am able to get to the car. I may have a chance to do it this next weekend if winter ever ends. These new tanks fit right in the available space and hold 16 gallon vs the 18 gallon of the original. Steve Brown <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  12. On my 37 I ended up using a new tank from Tanks in Minnesota. It was made for a 41 to 48 Chevy I believe. It was a close out with the sending unit included which fit nicely in the space for the original. The sending unit was the correct one for the gas gauge also. I did have to make a hole in the cross piece of the frame to make connection to the tube into the tank. I cut the included filler tube short and used a bendable rubber connector from Bob Drake to fasten to the original fill tube which I fastened to the inner fender with brackets. The tank with sending unit was about $160 shipped IIRC.. I can send pictures if you wish and provide your email address. But then maybe you're looking for an original - if so, if so good luck. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  13. Did you read the post 4 down from your own? There is a rear bumper in the first picture. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  14. Here you go: Robert Kapteyn studebaker@mac.com <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  15. Sorry, I do not. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  16. There is an extensive thread on the SDC website and a post from Ed Reynolds explaining what he will be doing. Studebaker International has purchased the SASCO inventory and it will stay in South Bend. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  17. I'm in need of: Radio head - just to fill holes in dash Ash tray - A dictator ash tray is different. I already have the receiver which it slides into. Throttle knob and shaft. Again Dictator knob is different. This is again just to fill the hole so cable condition is not important and bezel is not needed. Knob has a "T" on it. I can send pictures of the items if needed. BROWNSL3@PIE.MIDCO.NET <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
  18. Contact Bob Kapetyn. He had a bunch of used 37 parts including a grill and the garnish moldings with the vent windows. He probably has the other items you need also as he has lots of NOS parts. Joilet Studebaker 815-722-7262 Studebaker@mcs.com I heard he fell from his roof recently so he may be incapacitated for a while. If you search "1937 Studebaker parts" you will find a bunch of photos of most of the used stuff he had.
  19. I have a heater from a 37 Studebaker which would be usable. The support area in back needs to be repaired. I can send pictures if you are interested. BROWNSL3@PIE.MIDCO.NET Steve
  20. Who is beating up on upholstery guys? The question you missed is: What should one expect to pay for having a single seat reupholstered?
  21. I have a 37 coupe which originally had leather on the cushions while the rest of the trim was vinyl. I'm just curious about what to expect to have the one seat brought back to close to original. Nothing very fancy about it. The wooden frames are in very good condition and the springs will need a little repair but overall are good. They will need to be cleaned up and probably painted. I have gotten a price to do it in vinyl and was surprised at how high it is. The shop is apparently well regarded for their work. Just wondering if I am cheap or the shop is extremely high priced? What is a reasonable price for a good job?
  22. Posted this question in the Studebaker section and had no response so I'll try here. I want to know if there is a way to remove the knob from the shaft of the light switch and from the shaft of the throttle cable. The knob on the light switch turns on the shaft but doesn't screw off. The throttle knob does not turn. There are no set screws or other visible means of attachment so I am stumped. The vehicle is a 37 Studebaker - if that is important.
  23. I would like to remove the knobs from the headlight switch shaft and the throttle cable shaft. Anyone know if and how this can be done? The headlight knob turns easily but does not seem to want to pull off. The throttle cable knob looks the same but will not even turn. These are on a 37 Studebaker.
  24. If you follow the recommended 3 step process I think it works great. 1. Use the Marine Clean, 2. Use the Metal Ready and then 3. POR 15. I used in on various areas on my project with great results - floors, headlight buckets, battery tray, etc. I also used in on a fender where I grafted a rusty section onto my original. I applied POR 15 to the inside and exterior. I did visit with a professional restorer who said you have to be careful about what top coat you use as he has had some problems. I think a phone call to the company will resolve that. I know of a fellow who doesn't like it but he hasn't followed the preparation procedure -trying to save a couple bucks I suppose. The product goes a long way and flows out nicely leaving a shiny, very tough finish.
  25. Check out POR 15. They have a gas tank coating kit. You may not have to remove all the rust with their product. I have not used it but have used the POR 15 rust encapsulating product and think it is excellent.
×
×
  • Create New...