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Everything posted by jumpinjivinjoe

  1. I have a 1936 Dodge Coupe. I recently filled up the radiator to see if it had any leaks. I found an aggressive leak that has an 1/8" stream. There is probably more leaks. Do you know any products or techniques that could fix old radiator leaks?
  2. I have a feeling that the battery has died because my cables are new and my connections are good with dielectric grease. I will just get a new battery. Thank you for your help! Joe
  3. I just used a 1/2" drive ratchet attached on the front pully connected to the crank. It turns over without a "cheater" and without too much effort. It has an automatic transmission. What would cause the starter to become bad over the winter?
  4. OK, It will turn over a couple times before the battery drains. I just had to let battery charge more I guess. I just do not understand why it won't turn over like it did last year. Now it won't turn over fast enough or long enough for it to start.
  5. I have a 1957 Mercury Monterey with a Turnpike Cruiser engine. It was running last fall but now I can not get it to start. When I push the start button I get a krkrkrkrkkr sound which seems to be coming from where the solenoid is. So I used two screwdrivers to connect the two large terminals on the solenoid. When I do this I do not get the same sound and the fan will move an inch if I am lucky. Other than that the engine will not turn over. The battery is only 2 or 3 years old and is not corroded at all and has good connections. It is also full of water. It seems that when I try to start the engine it drains the battery quickly. So what could possibly be the problem? Thank You
  6. I have a 1936 dodge and a 1957 mercury and we all know that brake linings have asbestos but what else in our antique cars contain asbestos? I suspect the firewall insulation and the woven wire insulation contain asbestos. Are these suspicions correct? And what else in our cars contain asbestos?
  7. I have a 1957 Mercury Monterey. The left rear door will not stay latched shut. So I need to remove the interior door panel trim. And in order to do that I need to remove the interior door handle. How do I do that? My manual says... "Remove door inside handles. This is accomplished by pressing trimmed panel inward to permit insertion of tool 21812-A between handle and escutcheon. Turn tool to release spring retainer." Would kind of tool do I need?
  8. Well since it is stuck in the open position I will probably keep the existing heat riser on untill I replace the broken exhaust pipe. So once I get enough money to replace the exhaust pipe I will replace the heat riser with a spacer. I just got a set of TOYO tires from a junkyard for $125 with good tread so that I can drive it around without the tires deflating. My Mercury has not been driven for 25 years since my Grandpa had it. Thanks for the resource for heat risers and spacers.
  9. I took it out again on the same short drive. It is still hot but <span style="text-decoration: underline">certainly</span><span style="text-decoration: underline"> not</span> as hot as it was.
  10. I have been spraying WD-40 all over the heat riser for a couple days now. It didn't move at all, not even a wiggle. So I lightly tapped the counter weight back and forth with a hammer. It still won't move freely but at least it is stuck in the open position. Now I feel exhaust coming out of the passenger side tailpipe. And the motor sounds alot better too. I would have never knew to check that intill you said it. I could have put a whole new radiator in and it and that still would not have fixed the problem. I need to replace the heat riser. Where do you suggest I get a new one and what do I need to do to replace it? Thank You!
  11. thanks for the source I bought a kit for it from that website
  12. I never knew about the heat riser. How do I check the heat riser? And if it does not work how do I fix it or where do I get a new one? It probably is running too lean and the cooling system is corroded but I don't even think that would make it run <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">so</span></span></span> hot <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">so</span></span></span> fast which is why I now suspect the heat riser is the problem.
  13. I drove my 1957 Mercury Monterey for the first time in 25 years. When I got back after driving a block or two it was way too hot. The thermostat works because I replaced it(160 degrees). The only major thing I have done to it was rebuild the carburetor; I don't have the carb settings right yet but I don't think it that would cause it to run this hot. Would it? Why would it run way hot after only a block or two? What should I do?
  14. Where do I get new parts for my 1936 Dodge? Such as new <span style="text-decoration: underline">brake shoes?</span> This website sells rubber parts and wheather stripping for Dodge brothers. http://www.antiquedodgeparts.com/exterdog.htm#36 http://www.antiquedodgeparts.com/wthrstrpdog.htm
  15. On the Penrite website they have a search for trannsmission, differential, and motor oil lubrication. For Dodge the years go back to 1923. It says I should use "TRANSOIL 90" for the transmission in my '36 Dodge. http://www.penritedata.com/au/db/vehiclewizard2_s.php?cid=16 and http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_artic...p;nav_top_id=61 Thanks for the suggestion
  16. How do you check the transmission fluid level in a '36 dodge and what type of lubrication do you use?
  17. I just ordered a "bump key" It is a key that bumps up the pins in any lock so that you can turn it and thus remove it easier.
  18. The mechanical fuel pump's strainer bowl has been off for around 70 years. So I think the fuel pump will need to be rebuilt. Do you have any suggestions or tips? Thanks.
  19. no it does not. Well where is this button? Is it on the front of the lock? Do I need a key?
  20. Here is the lock. What button are you talking about?
  21. This is my intake manifold the thermostat housing mounts on the top. I believe the threaded holes that hold the accelerating linkage is different also.
  22. It does indeed have a y-block. But the manifold in the picture is for a 312 and I have a 368.
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