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StillOutThere

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Everything posted by StillOutThere

  1. I have a 1935 Dodge convert. I looked into this wanting an overdrive. As I understand it the first overdrives were offered by Chrysler in 1936. And it will not fit is a 1935 car frame. So just suggesting you'd better clarify with Portland what he wants and what it is going into. I'll be watching in case there is a simple solution to use in my '35 of course!
  2. Jon's comments are quite accurate in all respects. I own a '35 Hudson. Going to suggest your overall value starts at $100. The problem then is to find the buyer.
  3. I would highly recommend Diamond Back Tires "Auburn radials". I have 6.00 x 16 radials on my '35 Dodge. Thrilled with their appearance, ride, balance, everything. Also available 6.50 if that is what your car had. Original owner purchased a set of the '36 center wheel trims at the dealership so you see them in my pictures.
  4. Interested in any information relative to individual builds done POSTWAR by the Spohn Karosserie (Carosserie) in Ravensburg, Germany. Prior to WWII Spohn had been the primary builder of most Maybach automobiles. Spohn built on numerous chassis. Veritas BMWs have a great deal of support elsewhere. My primary interest is the approximately two dozen "Spohn Custom" cars created on customer chassis primarily for US service men while they were stationed in Germany. Josef Eiwanger, Jr., manager of Spohn postwar, felt that American-styled custom cars could be a profitable market niche to keep the company alive. Spohn closed mid 1957. I own one of the Spohn Customs and it is in concours restoration. It is 1952 titled and based on a 1940 Ford chassis. The Spohn Palos was displayed in unrestored condition at the Petersen Museum in Los Angeles a few years ago. All brands, comments, questions are welcome regarding the postwar Spohn Karosserie. Thank you for your interest.
  5. Buy a deep well socket rather than shorten the U-bolts! I've done many car and HD truck leaf spring changes. "As tight as I could get them" has always been the recommended torque. Oh, there is probably a printed spec somewhere but I don't have an engineering degree to care.
  6. ESPO Springs 'n Things. They also have all the specs, outstanding tech help on the order line. They'd be happy to make your one leaf (or might rightly suggest you replace the other side at the same time). Yes, I personally have used them multiple times and highly recommend.
  7. 1951 Kaiser Deluxe coupe. For 1952 the same car would be called a Manhattan. These two years are the only years of a "coupe" body with the shorter roof than the two door sedan which continued in later years. The 2D sedan basically using a 4D sedan upper roof stamping. Was my car. I sought out the body style because I thought the styling truly awesome.
  8. Kilo speedos are one heck of a conversation piece at an American car show in any LHD car! Would look great in my '35 Dodge convertible dash!
  9. Very nice but has nothing whatsoever to do with Chrysler nor any relationship of any kind.
  10. There is a Hudson forum and you would do well to post this there as well. Enjoy your restoration. Great car.
  11. You must be listening to the fan or your throttle linkage /carburetion or timing is very poorly adjusted. The car should do sixty EASILY. My '35 does.
  12. The first Essex-Terraplane was introduced in July of 1932. Name remained "E-T" through 1933. The '32s are narrow tread. What is the backing plate to backing plate measurement of this front axle?
  13. Got my bushings from ESPO Springs and Things. Very knowledgeable sales dept and very reasonable prices!
  14. Three comments: A chassis grease cup needs to be turned down "hard" to force the grease into the mechanical joint. The distributor and clutch cups need a very small turn; one revolution at the most. The old grease in any cut you have should be removed and washed out and a modern grease filled into the cup.
  15. What do you need to shim? Pinion play? Axle end play? Driveshaft angle? Clarify please.
  16. Not mine. A friend has this wheel among a few inherited parts and is needing help identifying it. It is not for sale at this time. I was guessing '36-38 and thinking '36 was the earliest banjo offered at Dodge and I do not know the last year. Little help from the experts here please? Thanks.
  17. Attaching some pics of details of my '35 Dodge wheels in hopes they are helpful to you. I expect they are the same wheel you are seeking. Sorry I have no spares. In the full wheel photo the single bolt center plate is the retainer to the sidemount bracket.
  18. I second the "secure with zip ties" idea for those of us that have the the covers. Have done so with my '35 Dodge. Very small ties, just used two at opposite corners.
  19. Not an engineer, just an experienced hobbyist who at one time partnered in a restoration shop and then later managed another shop. Have had conversations with radiator builders and known a couple of those Detroit engineers. Another thought would be that the impeller in your pump has come loose from its shaft. Some are swadged, some pressed, some welded. Some come loose! That could cause no visible flow. There are always MANY things to consider to fix an old car problem. There can only be ONE FIX for the actual problem.
  20. Used to be there were many sway bar link replacement kits available in the hobby and in the stores. But they are a high wear item both for the bushings deteriorating and wear on the shaft. You may have to go with something like this from auto parts stores. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/masterpro-chassis-4348/suspension---steering-16778/chassis-16549/sway-stabilizer-bar-link-12663/68abce94fb1f/masterpro-chassis-stabilizer-bar-link-kit/k80631/4500827?q=sway+bar+link Then rethread to match length of your original and adjust the length of the spacer tube as well. And a coat of flat black paint to make it disappear!
  21. Automotive drive train engineers will tell you that approximately HALF of the cooling of an internal combustion engine is the oiling system and the other HALF is the cooling system.
  22. Provide the VIN and a picture of the car. You want one that fits YOUR car, not any Chrysler from '31-34 - there are significant changes.
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