Janousek

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Everything posted by Janousek

  1. Do yourself a favor and ditch that woven ground strap and run a 1/0 cable from the battery to a starter bolt. You will elimate hassles in the future by allowing the current to flow and not through the frame. A hot car will appreciate this mod.
  2. My cousin repairs electric fork lifts for a living. He says they can sometimes shock a battery with a real hard charge but it takes an old school charger capable of a lot of amps. He says the modern chargers won't do it for safety reasons. Sometimes it works according to him and I think he said it boils the crap off the plates maybe. I never fool with old batteries and send them down the road if they are suspect.
  3. Looking for a paint formula in modern single stage urethane for a 68' 442 engine. Trying to save myself 20 bucks buying a spray bomb for a sprayout to be converted to Single stage. Thanks for the help, Brad
  4. Get a dial indicator on the ring gear to check the backlash. Most vehicels are .004-.008 but a lot of this older stuff can have over .010" when worn. Just make sure you put it back where it was or it will probably make noise. The pattern is set into that gearset and not a good idea to change it. I probably wouldn't remove the carrier just the spiders/side gears and inspect outer wheel bearings if the carrier feels smooth, decent backlash on ring gear, and you have preload on the carrier bearings. Good backlash/wear pattern in the teeth before you dissasemble means the bearings are in good shape. Once the bearings start to fail is when the backlash grows. If you throw a dial indicator on it and it reads .025" then your in for new bearings/crush sleeve and that is when setup is critical.
  5. I forgot to mention that diff whine is during acceleration only and on coast the singing sound will go away. Might want to check the outer wheel bearings when you do the brakes. Seems like I replace a set a year that are decent/safe bearings but make noise. They would have minimal or no lubrication if they were ever run low on gear oil. With your new shop get a chassis ear setup so you can pinpoint some of this stuff quicker.
  6. Nice write up Matt. I'm with Bob that they had brass thrust washers between the spiders and sometimes between the sidegears and housing. All the old Motors books recommend 140 wt in this stuff. They aren't lying either as I used to think I was helping with modern 80-90 and all they did was leak and make noise. I run a quality 140wt safe on white metals oil in stuff after 30'. Most of the pre 30's get a 250wt safe for white metals. Better plan on 4 wheel cylinders to go along with a leaky master cylinder. While your in there the shoes will need to be relined and drums turned. You know the drill for a can of worms.
  7. Lamar, they were diamondbacks on restored original rims with SS spokes. This was happening over 10 years ago. The car was just sold but it has mostly sat for the past decade. I checked the odometer that I know was a tick under 20k of him driving the car. I would guess the radials were installed at 18k. It just seemed like we would borrow the car and have to put the spare on. Have the wheel relaced and next time we borrow it another would break. It was constant and ruined a good driving car. Some others in the 53'-54' Skylark club had the same problem if they drove them a lot. The car drove great with radials though. I wouldn't hesitate with radials on a steel wheel. His 40' Buick had the same treatment and never batted an eye with Diamondbacks. I'll be putting them on our 42' Cadillac limo when I get around to getting the engine back in it. I know several guys with radials on Auburn wire wheels and they have been fine. I think that skylark is such a whale. I used to have a set of wires from a 53' eldorado and I was going to compare them against the skylark wheels but It never happened before they met the scrap pile. I've never heard of the Eldorado spokes breaking.
  8. Multi weights in our 31' don't act like a straight weight when hot. Oil pressure at hot idle is low. Our 35' Auburn is the same way. 10-40 was barely noticable over 10-30 on the gage. 30 or 40 weight carry better oil pressure hot. I run them in warmer weather so their isn't a need for multi weights. I use Schaeffer's racing oil or Brad Penn without any additives. I used to run reg oil with zinc added but I can buy a 5 gallon pail of the correct oil for less money than trying to be chemist. Straight 40 just acts right in our cars and other cars I service. Rule of thumb from a long time antique engine builder is 10psi per 1000 rpm's. Getting into the 40's the cars started carrying more oil pressure than the 20-30's. You can't go wrong with 30 or 40 wt straight in an old car.
  9. Straight 40 wt is what I use in our 31'. 30wt or 10-40 at hot idle was pretty low on pressure. Straight 40wt keeps it at 5psi at hot idle.
  10. I like the idea of your overdrive. We have high speed gears in our car. I've never drove it before they were installed but sometimes a little more low end would be nice. We had pistons made that bump it up around 6.5:1 and is a much better all around motor. I worked with Ross Racing Pistons and they will be on file with them. Only thing I'd change is to get a little more skirt under the pin to stablilze the piston. Otherwise they have close to 10k on them without any trouble.
  11. The original DP40 would spray nice and be able to sand wet or dry pits in suspension parts and such without adding a 2k build primer to your suspension parts. This is a nice way to do things as epoxy is more durable and less prone to chiping than 2k's. One product not two. We could no longer do this with DP40lf and it was important to us. We never had a failure but we dropped the lf after one car. It was no longer a product we wanted. The SPI epoxy is more versatile for me and better than I remember even the DP40 was. Who knows, maybe the dp40lf would work for me now but I have a such a trust with SPI that I wouldn't use the lead free even if it was free. Some of the primers now are hybrids for fill and bare metal coverage. They usually are urethane based. I wouldn't use them personally but I know body shops do but thats a different ball game. They need the most of speed and don't have time to spot prime bare metal with epoxies. Our local PPG dealer was the pits and now they are out of business. I still have access to the Color library because I use their base. My recommendation for SPI is a solid choice for pros and hobbiest. They put out a nice Tech manual, call the owner of the business for tech support 7 days a week, 2 full gallons of sprayable epoxy for $182.68 with free shipping, epoxy colors of grey,black,red oxide, white. They also don't send out the letter once or twice a year with price increases like I get from local jobber. I see RM won Pebble Beach with SPI products last year. It's not mixed in a bath tub, and all the products I use are as good or better than the Dupont/PPG top shelf products. Most of the time a lot better. I don't do generic body supplies nor do I buy tools that aren't american made. I'm hard headed on what I use and I always try to use the best product for the job. SPI has beyond met my expectations. PPG bought our local bodyshop a paint booth when they signed a 3 or 5 year contract. My Hershey buddy has a 30+ man shop and I could retire on his paint contract. Regulations are one thing, but with SPI I'm not paying for someone else's contract, bass boat, nascar, sema booth, etc... Stuff rolls down hill and small guys like me pay for this advertising.
  12. Back when we used the old dp40 with K200(I think as it was 20 years ago) for a 2k build primer. Good combination that held up well. I've stripped cars my grandfather did in the early 80's with DP40 and it held up great. Occasionally we would hit three coats of dp40 for build instead of spraying one coat and then going over that with 2k fill primer. The nice thing about original dp40 was it's sanded decent. Once dp40LF came along it was no longer sandable and would gum the paper. We dropped it their and searched for a replacement. Using epoxy for build seems to stop any shrinkage the 2k's filles seem to do. It's a much slower cure product so it won't work for everybody. When I'm rotating parts through the process I have time to let a part sit a few weeks on the extreme end. It doesn't build as much per coat as your shooting from a 1.5 tip. 3 coats of epoxy does a decent job of filling. The procedure is not for everyone as it takes longer but it does a great job and It's nice to know you have one product for the foundation of the paint. I don't do all epoxy for every job but most of them are. Take a look at the SPI forum. It's one of the best paint related forums out there. The core guys are truely experts and not internet experts either. I've used SPI for over ten years now and I've never had a problem. All of their products are the highest quality or right their with the others. Limited colors so I use Standox or PPG solvent base with SPI clear. I have guys thinking I'm trying to save a buck with generic products but this stuff is better and the price is better. The difference is a PPG shop gets all the perks from their mega contracts or sponsoring race cars while guys like me have to eat the price hikes. The tech line is second to none as you talk with the owner of the company who still paints. He almost always picks right up and if he doesn't he'll call back with an hour. Good luck getting this service from Xalta or PPG.
  13. Cassette player???? I grew up in the cassette era and they stunk back then. You used to see cassettes thrown along side the road with the ribbon all strung out. I haven't seen that in a couple decades. Your 16 so your phone or ipod or whatever should be controlling your music. Old car radio places gut the existing old radios and put modern guts in the and are ipod capable. For me the idea of driving an old car is clearing your mind and thinking about whats next. None of our stuff has radios. BillP, these 356's are real cars with Porsche drivetrains. You know VW's with swaybars. Thats my feeling of a Porsche and my opinion after being treated like a piece of human waste by the most arrogant/condescending car people I've ever met. This was at a Porsche Parade. I'm not trying to knock VW's either as they are neat and owners are usually very humble/fun people. I'm block sanding louvered hoods today and you gave me a great memory thinking about that Porsche Parade. I can't wait to mention it to the wife when she gets home as that will be a good laugh as she was treated the same.
  14. 90's GM stuff was pretty good. I think they all were but the supercars your talking about probably wouldn't be. I'm sure the parts are super cheap and readilly available for a McClaren or Ferrari. 90's stuff isn't cool yet to me and It might never be since I drove them as transportation. I'd say screw the mileage and get something that pulls you in. I used to drive a 72' chevelle with a 307 back and forth to work for a couple years in the early 2000's. It got 20 mpg gallon and I beat it like a red headed stepchild. You can get decent deals right now on 50's sedans. Your looking at 12-15 mpg but the fun is priceless. I've restored a couple 356 Porsches(VW drivetrain) and I had to force myself to drive them 300 miles. And I mean force myself as they were miserable little pricks. Now a 59' Cadillac and I'll drive all day. Cars fit your personallity I guess. Your budget is catered better to a 50/60's sedan and for the right deal maybe a coupe. Straight eight Buicks are great cars especially if you get a manual transmission. You will get good help here and if you want to get noticed the 50's stuff does it.
  15. The magic number for humidity in Michigan is 50% or under won't flash quick. Above that and you better hurry. At least these numbers are in the shop from the humidity gauge. We bailed on dp40 in the mid 90's when it went lead free. I've tried several before relying on SPI epoxy. Best product of it's kind for me. I use it for bare metal, build primer, and sealer before final paint. One product for the build. I use the black epoxy and haven't used a satin type of finish for almost 10 years. Epoxy is my primer and final chassis coat for the frame and all the underhood satin finish items.
  16. Regular Dawn dish soap in a bucket of hot water with a bristle brush is an excellent metal prep. I do this first and then I use a waterborne prep cleaner with lint free rags. Both of these products will cause flash rust quick so you have to get on it with a waterblade/dedicated synthetic shammy and air gun to dry. It's a hustle procedure. Regular solvent based preps just don't clean like the waterborne stuff. It removes grease better but not blasting dust and such. Try it and you'll know what I'm talking about.
  17. Each of your replies make sense. I put a diode in a 1913 Packard to stop the orignal starter/generator from doing exactly what your saying. And they do get hot when it happens. I have 10k + miles between the Auburn and Buick with a solid state 6 volt cutouts without problem. I'll keep using them but I also have battery disconnects in the car and accessible while driving.
  18. So the idea behind this is full charge all the time but stopping the battery from going dead when turned off? Whats wrong with operational cutouts? If I sit behind the wheel for 2+ hours straight in our 31' Buick I don't like the idea of juicing the batter that much. It doesn't need it.
  19. None of our nephews have any interest in our cars. One will pull the hood over his head in my 59' GMC if we go through town. The cards haven't played out right but one of these times I'll be able to pick him up from school in it. I'm running out of time as he's 15 now, but he has told me he won't come out of school if I do. The other one would like our cars if we have a white Lamborgini with gold wheels. They watch professional sports and all the crap that goes with it. The others just don't care. It's a one kid at a time if they are interested. All of our other car clubs are hurting for memberships. The current generation has all the social interaction they need on their phone. We had to go up town and hang out. That meant cars and the cool cars are what we wanted. A lot of kids don't get their license at 16 anymore. They take the class but it's no big deal when they turn 16 to go to the Secretary of State. When they finally do get it they are happy with a 4 door honda which I would've been the one pulling the hood over my head in that rice burner. My wife and her sister spent a lot of time at car shows as kids with their grandpa. The wife took and the sister could care less. It's nothing you can force on the kids. We tried to expose the nephews early and they just don't care. With us not having kids they would be smart to act interested, but they will end up in museums instead of their hands to sell when we are gone. It appears to me the AACA is doing the best for new people in the clubs were in. The other clubs are one marque style small clubs and the cars are expensive. This leaves out most young people. Their isn't a good answer. One kid at a time and when your out and about driving your old cars answer questions and be friendly. That is what we try to do.
  20. Your Olds is probably the accelerator pump deteriorated more than the timing. It will idle all day long until you step on it and squirt of fuel isn't their to feed the cylinders. The Maxwell looks like a nice starting point for preservation or restoration if one wanted to be upside down in a car. If it was a Marmon you could get some money out of it. I'm with the put in on ebay for 5 grand and go from there.
  21. I haven't heard that one. The powders should have uv protection. I wouldn't let that sway me as a lot of park benches and such that sit outside year around are powdercoated. Antique cars sit out how many hours out of a year?
  22. SaddleRider, you lost me somewhere. I used to like Chasing Classic Cars and this year I haven't. Seems like it's changed direction away from classics and into mostly micros. The neat thing is I don't have to watch it anymore. BTW, I'm not retrainable for politcally correctness either. I rode in the back of pickup trucks, stood in the front seat of the car, and surely didn't wear a bike helmet. It was a way of thinning the herd.
  23. The factory didn't use high build primers and 3+ wet coats or more for base/clear to make the wheels better than new. I don't think they used any primer on some of them. Our 42' cadillac is original and they appear to have a one step paint on the wheels. I know John Deere never used primer on the two cylinder tractors. I usually run a countersink bit in my drill to clean the lug area. Also try to keep the paint thickness to a minimum on the back hub area.
  24. I know a guy that was on the show and purchased a vehicle from them. He said Edd was a jerk to everybody on set. Maybe he was just having a bad day. Chasing Classic cars should be changed to Chasing Micro Cars. Ditch Wayne and his fascination for tiny cars and just show Roger working on stuff. He makes the show watchable for me and I liked the Minerva episode. Otherwise it's been Pebble Beach and clips of whichever auction company is sponsoring him.
  25. Kar Grabber floor rack. A perimeter around the car where attachments hook on the outside lip to pull stuff. In the picture you can see it's a pain in the butt to pull the cherry picker over the plates but I use it more than I dread it.