Janousek

Those fenders are fixable but I'd want them on the car and have the new grill for the initial pulling. The metal generally wants to go back to it's shape with methodical bumping. That would be easy pickins for 28,000.

I'd also plan on a set of wheel cylinders and master if they are 15 to 20 years old. From my experience this is when they start to get nasty.

I've put these Diamondback Auburn radials on several cars for people. They all seem to like them. I like the looks of them. They'll hold up a 57' Caddy and not look squished like regular radials do. A friend has Coker radials on a 41' Cadillac 75 series and they run 45 lbs or they look and feel flat. Our 40 Buick has Diamondbacks radials but are the modern tires with a whitewall applied. Look like crap in my opinion.

Thank you. I had came across that info somewhere. I've been pondering completely closing this and drilling a small hole in the thermostat. Seems dumb not to have all the coolant pass in a loop from the engine through the radiator.

I've been meaning to do this for 10 years on our 90 series. You'll just have to unsolder and seperate the systems so they can't ever leak. I've seen guys bypass them from the bottom oil lines but it doesn't look good. I was going to gain access inside to the oil lines and run them together. A good radiator shop would be able to do this if you can talk them into it.

I dropped the pan on our 40' yesterday and instead of dropping the drag link I was able to raise the front of the car up until the tires were almost off the ground and it let the pan slip out. I would think this might apply to a 50' also. I choose to run a racing style oil with zinc in it. Schaeffer's racing oil at a straight 40wt is what I run in our old cars. I know oil threads are beat to death but if you have to buy the oil, why not get the best protection. Modern engines run rollers on all the friction points but these engines still have a lot of sliding metal. Our 40' was half assed rebuilt 10 years ago and it had a inch and a half of sludge in it. I know her grandpa ran regular Napa 10w30 oil but it changed hands for 8 years and doesn't appear he ever changed it.

I have a 40' Special that is running hot. I pulled the thermostat housing to check the bypass like others on here. This picture is what I have. Our 48' Buick has the same housing. Bob's Automobilia said this is the later part. I'm going to tap this hole and make it smaller. What would be a minimal hole that I should put in it. It's a 1/2" now and I feel that is enough to bypass a lot of coolant from the block. Radiator is recored Just ordered new waterpump. Going to remove the rear freeze plug and see what's in the block. Coolant isn't rusty. Car warms up fast in town. Seems to cool OK out on the road.

2nd gear whine is usually countershaft needle bearings. These are a hearty gearbox and unless run dry, it's hard to believe the gears are worn. 1st gear whines in our 90 series but they are straight cut gears. I'd rebuild it and try 140 wt. oil. 250 wt. oil if it's still noisy. These gearboxes aren't going to be as quite as the late 30's cars.

I was also private messaged by a member here who was trying to scam me on a previously sold tank from this forum. I almost sent him the money but it smelled fishy. Just be careful.

I repaired my tank. Tig welded all the holes I could find. Light air pressure with soap and water, mark the leaks, weld, and repeat. I did this until I no longer had soapy leaks. Hours of welding. 2. Took it to a dipper and had it dipped. I knew more holes would be there once finished. I was correct. I welded on all the visible and did some more pressure tests. By now I have it down to pin holes and only on the top. The bottom must of sat with fuel and didn't have many leaks. It was all on the top. 3. I poured a gallon of simple green in and washed the heck out of it. Did a high speed dry to keep the flash rust away. Let it set in the sun for a couple hours. 4. Caswell epoxy 2part sealer. This was on backorder all summer. I had to wait. I doubled up what they said to use. I purchased 2 kits. This stuff is thick and I didn't want to skimp. Bit me once on a motorcycle tank years ago. Mixed, poured 3 quarts mixed product in, and turned it continuously for the next hour until it no longer flowed and the tank was warm from the chemical reaction. Their really wasn't much to pour out after it was all coated so I just kept it moving until it set up. It worked great and bled through the pin holes in the top. Only 2 spots on the bottom that I didn't get welded. 5. I 80grit sanded and sprayed 2 coats black epoxy.

Thank you for the replies. Ken Green sold me his leftover 40' engine and is delivering from Georgia this fall. What a guy.

I was short on time this morning. Those delco units are wired to 12 volt voltage regulator out of the 60's. They charge the battery well. Your car doesn't appear to be a touring car so I'm sure it would work well for your application. Modern serpantine belt was used so a new pulley was made to replace the v-belt pulley on the original starter/gen. Personally I think a v-belt would work better and possibly slip less than the serp that was used in this car. 2 v-belts would be better but a new pulley would have to be made. A ring gear and mini starter from a forklift would be more foolproof but you have to add an alternator or charge the battery often if used on a tour.

The belt units I've worked on didn't work that well because the belt was quickly saturated with oil and it would slip on the flywheel. These were large HP cars so maybe on a the smaller Buick and keep it wiped off you would probably be fine. They use a starter/generator from a 60's era simplicity lawn mower. They are a delco unit. The flywheel should have a groove machined in it to keep the flat belt in line.

I'm in Michigan. Morgan, I have a 263 engine but I don't want to use it. The waterneck is located in a different position and I'd like to keep it correct. Between the motor mount castings and the waterneck it's easy to spot the newer engine. The rods in this were converted to slip bearings so I can use them.

Our 40' special is leaking from a welded water jacket. Crack runs across most of the block under the head. I really don't want to stitch or try to reweld it. Figure I'd rebuild another and have it ready to swap in a weekend. Thanks, Brad

I service a 41' Cadillac with factory air and when that car was new you would put the belt on in the spring and take it off in the fall. It's right in the owners manual. You have to lose your 6volt because a compressor clutch isn't available in 6volt. With all the companies around right now it isn't to hard to add air. It's just how classy it looks when your done. I've seen some bad ones. Kinda like an alternator on a car designed for a generator. Most make me want to throw up.

I'm going on 10 years and 12k miles on our 31' Buick tuneup with points and condenser. I keep spares in the car but haven't touched them. Most have forgotten to bend the points flat so they actually close flat and not on a corner. It helps with life. Modern/Cheap condensers is a bigger concern than the points will ever be for me.

My tank has had some pin holes soldered in the top at some point. I've been removing the solder and tig welding them shut. I'll tig the holes until it passes a pressure test and run it for this year. Once the tank liner I use is back in stock I will have the tank dipped, more pressure testing, welding, and then I'll seal it. I'd still buy a better one if it comes up. If I have to buy a new one and modify it a bunch then I might as well use this one because either way I'd want to line it after I move the filler neck. Thanks for the information

Have a rusty tank and the tank sealer I use isn't available until mid july. Wonder if any good tanks are out there or if anybody is making them. 269-986-4697 Brad

Are you saying you put standard bearings in a .010 over ground crank?

I dislike assembly. Every piece will fight to the end regardless of how well it was fitted before paint or chrome.

It's just a bummer for everyone involved. I go to Hershey for the swapping and leave before the car show. It's kinda like the deer hunting my father did with his buddies. All BS but a lot of fun. We social distance all day in the orange field and you can throw a bowling ball down the isle and not hit a soul most of the day. It's just a parking spot as the guys park in their spaces and start walking. How is it acceptable to do a car show and not the swap meet? Some in our group are getting older and giving them a year off and they might not return for numerous reasons. If not for them I probably won't make the annual trip because I can usually internet buy every part as soon as I get home instead of the walking the 26 miles to not find what I'm looking for.

Stuff is getting deep. Who is asking people to die by opening a business responsibly? More lives will be ruined/affected negatively by this shutdown than the virus will ever do.

Steve, I meant the USA. Not the aaca volunteers that setup and run the show. We all have opinions on the subject but the CDC released a death rate of less than .3%. Yes, that is .3%. I understood in the beginning when the numbers scared most everybody. We were scared for a couple weeks until the data started flowing. At this point who even knows how many have actually died from the virus as money is given for each death labeled "Covid". We are supposed to live in fear the rest of our lives and hide behind masks. If I was high risk I'd stay home. Right now I'm not going to live on my knees and I won't have my identity taken away by some homemade mask that doesn't work anyway. Here in Michigan we can't go to church but we can get pot/booze/lotto and put covid positive people in retirement homes. Something is wrong and people need to wake up if they love the good old USA.

We were so fortunate to get Amelia Island completed before this crap stopped that also. I'm sad we won't have Hershey this year and a little ashamed of our society at the same time. Were a bunch of pathetic pansy azz's if you ask me. I understand the legal portion and it's sad what we've become.