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Everything posted by Janousek

  1. Bob Drake Ford reproductions has something close. They are the only ones I know of.
  2. Dynaflash, did I miss something? I was stating that no one around here would work that cheap. I priced up the materials for our 67 series Cadillac with the same body as this limited and it was over 2 grand for the materials.
  3. No trimmer around here would work that cheap. Proper materials are gonna run a couple grand. Depends on the job though. I always make sure and have the seat coils repocketed and all of the original fabric and stuffing replaced and any wood needs to be sealed and painted. That is half the labor right there but the smell is permanetly gone and the seats sit proper. Your roadmaster is sharp but it doesn't quite have the stance as the big limited.
  4. You guys a bunch of city slickers? I've heard that term throughout my childhood from my dad's farming buddies.
  5. I know were off topic but linings are sold by the foot and are of different thickness and width. The rivets are a few bucks a 100 at mcmaster carr. Brakes are the easy part of a car like this.
  6. Dynaflash, if you buy it, send me the brake linings I'll take care of you. I have an old brake lining machine but I don't advertise it. It would be a snap to rivet those pads onto the shoes. I've been buying the Kanter complete brakes for most everything but my 42' wasn't listed. I'm not exactly sure the chassis differences between our cars. I know the frame is the same and I have open driveshaft with leaf springs. I don't know if the axles back then are different or the front brakes. They are big brakes though. Really to do a proper job you should turn the drums and arch the shoes. Or brake doktor them. That's been my favorite tool of the summer.
  7. I looked over the ebay ad again. For me the car looks usuable for a driver except the interior. I can smell it through the ethernet cable. That's the rabbit hole our Cadillac is falling down and the interior looked nicer than this. It was a driver but where do you stop. I don't know too many people that want to sit in 70+ year old broadcloth if it has an aroma. Unless your a trimmer looking for a project your bill is going to cost more than you'll pay for the car. Then throw in a new steering wheel and paint the garnishes, dashboard, maybe some interior chrome work. It's to the point where most average guys are out. My phone never rings anymore for normal Joe looking for normal work. I hope someone on here buys it. If I could go back I'd buy it in a second over my Cadillac.
  8. Dynaflash, it's no big deal to get the shoes relined. White Post or several others do it in a weeks turnaround. One thing to know is if 1 wheel cylinder is leaking then they all are including master cylinder.
  9. I can't believe the manpower in the video. Thanks for sharing Xander.
  10. Thats tempting. If it was in my backyard I might do something stupid. Still a few thousand more than I paid for our Cadillac. Matt would know more than me but It feels like their aren't many buyers for this stuff anymore. Seems like everyday stuff has been soft and only the collectors are paying big bucks for special cars. I surely know most kids don't want anything to do with them. I have 5 nephews and they don't care at all. Couple of them are even embarrased to ride in our cars and pull their hoodies over their heads when we go through town. With us not having kids it makes it easy to decide they will not get one for inheritance.
  11. Like Friartuck said don't rely on bolts with just threads. I've been into Brass era transmissions where non shouldered bolts were used the gear shucked back and forth and wore the threads. This loosened up the gear on the hub and it would shuck. They all had red locktite on all the them and they were all loose. I remachined the stuff and used shouldered bolts from Mcmaster carr. That way it's impossible to shuck.
  12. As a shop owner it's starting to make sense now. Sounds like you weren't ready to have the job done and it just snowballed. I tell people all the time the car has no business in the shop unless your committed 100% to get the job done. Otherwise were wasting each others time. Shop owner probably sat the car outside when he figured the money wasn't there. Nobody wins in this situation and to top it off the shop owner has to eat the profits from the wire job to pay for the damage on the fender when the car shouldn't have been there in the first place. Nobody wins and nobody is happy in the end.
  13. This is tough situation. A good shop could paint the fender and match pretty good. I'm sure it would be a lot closer than the brown fender to door on the Cadillac of your avatar. Fenderweldt is your friend and your dividing line for the color. They aren't going to be able to whip up a shelf color, it will take some tinting. Modern collision shops aren't going to do it. Easier to say they can't and onto the next collision job. I think the wiring shop owes you a repaired fender but not a complete paint job. I don't know anything about the insurace end of it. A stand up show will take care of you but a stand up shop isn't going to take 2.5 years to do a harness.
  14. Matt, your article was excellent in the CCCA comparing the Limited and the 41' Cadillac. I haven't driven those exact cars but have driven enough Cadillacs and Buicks of the era to relate to the article. These bodies tended to rot at the inner rockers/outer rockers, back of body where the trunk lid lines up with the body, and where the rear fenders attach to the body. Most GM stuff of this era goes in these locations so if you can find a clean one then your miles ahead.
  15. These are great looking cars. I have the Cadillac version that we are currently restoring but I think the Buick had the better engine back then. I wish we had the Buick but I'm not inclined to restore and lose money on two of these bohemiths. This car needs everything ours did so I have a good pulse on what the costs are. Thanks for sharing all the info Dynaflash. I don't think the price is bad but you'd bury yourself in a hurry.
  16. This is what happens to our group in the orange field. This year the foot traffic was almost nonexistent. I applaud all the volunteers that make this event happen. I don't like to be negative about any of it but some consolidation would be nice. I just know as long as someone is paying for the spot then eyes are gonna look the other way. Money and pride not to the shrink this large event are hard to overcome. I also don't mind the little scooters for the disabled, but the golf carts this year seemed to be a problem. I had one run up the side of my foot. Luckily for me it didn't do anything but just because your dragging a beer can doesn't mean you have the right away over foot traffic. I thought for a while I was at the old Auburn auction park.
  17. Oh, they are becoming empty. What sucks for us in the Orange field is lack of traffic. I personally know several guys from different clubs that don't cross the bridge anymore. Well, those guys using the chocolate field for a parking lot slow down or eliminate our traffic if they are incapable doing the entire swap meet. Maybe those of us on the "other side of the tracks" could get some action. Traffic on our side isn't hardly worth bringing anything anymore.
  18. I walk the entire show every year. I enjoy doing it but it sure gets old walking down entire rows with just a few tables out and the rest being parked cars. Or a truck will pull up and 4 guys bail out leaving an empty truck without any junk for sale. I see it all the time. The vending spot next to us has been empty for a couple years but it was a parking spot for at least consecutive 5 years before that. I thank Mike for showing some these pictures even if it pisses off some of the offenders. I bet enough money is changing hands that nothing will ever become of it.
  19. I won't offer you candy from a windowless van but perhaps I can entice you to the dark side.
  20. Hopefully you can sell it, still come to Auburn, and the new owners bring the car every year like you have done. 9th street gets thinner every year. Wasn't this car restored by Timbrinks??? not sure how to spell it. They were known for quality work and the family still runs it.
  21. Right now I have woven shoes. I've tried them both and woven work the best. I have to get some drums made for a model30 packard so it has me thinking about getting a set done on our car also. At this point it would be nice to experiment. If I was to do one thing different on our 31' Engine it would be to eliminate the oil temperature regulator. At least gut it and have it appear correct. It's a possible failure point of coolant dumping into the engine.
  22. Mike, you can't sell this car. We can't afford to have one less Auburn down on 9th street. You guys still coming to Auburn? Brad
  23. Yes. I have nothing against mechanical brakes. I set up about 3 cars a years with them and non have skunked me like our car. They are fine brakes until you get past 45 mph. Then it has a good pedal and the harder you push the shoes just don't dig in. The harder you push it never translate into a progressive stop. They'll stop you but if someone ever pulls out when were cruising were smoked. I really want to try a set of cast drums but I don't have the time to go through the process. We live in the country and our driving is mostly back roads so I just tolerate them. Buick engineered it to have one long shoe for front braking and a short shoe for reverse. I have a 33' Cadillac in the shop now that needs brake work. It will be intersting to compare the two when I'm done with it.
  24. I wasn't going to say anything but I think it's his strong opinion. I personally prefer to run a quality mineral based oil like Schaffers racing oil in straight 30 or 40 depending the time of year. It's more oil than these cars ever need and have the correct additives for a long life without the seal leakeage that synthetic can cause. I remember in the mid 90's when GM switched to syn gear lube in the front pigs. They started leaking out of the seals and the service bulletin wanted the tech to lower the oil level to prevent this seal weeping. I also ran axle tests back in that time frame and the synthetics wouldn't take the shear metal to metal contact that the mineral oil would. Additives were developed and we moved forward. Without these additives the oil wasn't that good. So in my experience 20 years ago just because it said synthetic didn't mean it was better. A good quality mineral oil that is developed with our cars in mind is what I'm happy with.
  25. I had Ross bump our 31' to around 6.5:1. They should have my profile in there for a 31'. I remember them being around 2500 bucks about 8 years ago. It's a strong car. Our 31' has terrible brakes. Really good until speeds exceed 45mpgh. This is a problem since our cars happy speed is 60mph. I've tried three different linings and it easilly outdrives the brakes. I blame it on the steel drums. The shoes just don't bite into the steel. I've set ours up by the book and also with a brake doktor and they just aren't good. Somebody please get a set of cast iron drums made and sell me some.