Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 16 points
    A while back I bought a 1953 GMC Fire Engine. Why you ask? Why not I say. So one of the first nice days after buying the truck. I call my friend who has 2 young boys 5 and 3 at the time. I ask if he and the boys are home and they are. I tell my friend not to tell the boys, but that I am coming over with a fire engine. He agrees to take the boys out in the yard to wait. I come down their street lights and sirens and pull into the driveway. The oldest boy is so excited he can't speak. He is just jumping up and down and screaming. His little brother is the same way. After a few moments the older boy looks at me and says. "Why did I not know you had a fire truck?" I told him I just bought it. He thought for a second and said "Well I should have known sooner." The 2 boys climbed all over the truck for about the next hour and tried every button and switch. Then they went for a ride around the block, only after getting their plastic fire helmets from in the house. A few days later the Older boy went to school and for show and tell took a toy fire engine. He proceeded to tell his class all about the fire engine his friend had brought over for him to play with. When his Mother picked him up from school the teacher told her about his great imagination. How he made up a story about his friend having a real fire truck. His Mother laughed and told the teacher his friend dose have a fire truck. His friend is 40 years old and then she pulled out her phone and showed the teacher pictures. This is why everyone should own a fire engine.
  2. 14 points
    Thanks to everyones contributions trying to help me find my Reo Royale Victoria ashtray. I found one that has the two ash holders and I can modify the wood style. For a $50 purchase price and 5 years of looking I got one. I have seen some going not my style for $200 I got this on eBay from Classic and Exotic
  3. 10 points
    When I bought my 32’ Olds as a project, the small door recessed mount ashtray was missing. All GM cars of the era and Cabriolet type models used the exact same size and receptacle but the tray itself was slightly different. There are repops made of the Chevy version which I could of used but kept look for an original. While I couldn’t find an Olds one, an original pontiac, with the Indian head logo came up on eBay so I bought it, figuring someone would have to look really close to see what it was. When talking with my friend joe who was restoring a 32’ Olds coupe at the same time I was doing my roadster, I told him I had found a pontiac ashtray. Well it turned out he had a 32’ pontiac convertible coupe, like my Olds, but he could only find an Oldsmobile logo ashtray. So we ended up trading and he got a pontiac tray for his pontiac and I got an Oldsmobile tray for my Olds! While its its hard to see in the photo, it’s the shield and acorn Olds logo on the ashtray. What a find. Just like your 5 year search.
  4. 8 points
  5. 7 points
    Thanks for the report, Konrad! I just logged into the forum to post this pic and my own report of the afternoon's events, but Konrad has summed it up so well I will just post the photo. It looks like just another photo of my Buick in the driveway, but it's not. It's a photo of my Buick in the driveway after a successful test drive during which I tried my best to get it to pop out of third gear and it just wouldn't do it! 😄 I'm a very happy camper and again want to thank my friends for all their help.
  6. 7 points
    Some of my best dreams would become a nightmare if they became reality. Do you really want 25 years of dreaming to come to an end?
  7. 7 points
    Yes, Matt, I had to respond to the individual who "needed" a disk brake "upgrade" for this DeSoto. Just wondering if it also "needs" an electric power steering unit, to be "safe to drive", and maybe a Sound System "upgrade", and then maybe a Small Block Chevy engine to be safe in traffic ???
  8. 7 points
    I can't compete with Carl Fisher's Packard, but here's one to add to the four I posted on Page 1 of this thread. I still think it's one of the best threads on the forum, and I'm really enjoying it. Thank you, VL2, and all those who have participated. Gil Fitzhugh the Elder
  9. 7 points
    Non-original fender skirts and continental kits are removed immediately as soon as cars come into my shop. You want them, they're in the trunk. May God have mercy on your soul.
  10. 6 points
    https://www.whitefuneralhomeofgriffith.com/obituary/Carl-Blackard?fbclid=IwAR3Qd8kilR04c7-JEaum9rVZyc7AvgL1ZnXpMqGVKjWtLttXJ_jeuR91UQE Tom Mooney
  11. 6 points
    What ever happened to restoring a car just for the shear joy of it and just because it is a car beautiful in your eyes. Am I the only one left!
  12. 6 points
    Another great program brought to you by Walt & John. For the new members here that have never been to Hershey, they would benefit from watching! Check out their other programs as well - you will not be disappointed ! Steve https://www.4vs.org/4VS-WatchNowPage3-TheAntiqueRoadTest-21.php
  13. 6 points
    This on is not as big as yours, but I have just as much fun with it. Perhaps more fun than driving any of my old cars... Frank
  14. 6 points
    I met Carl at the ROA meet in St. Charles IL in 2015. He was a very fine person and I really enjoyed talking to him. I took this photo of him with his '64 Super Wildcat.
  15. 6 points
    Just to make this clear for anyone trying to follow along, the "southpaw" threads we are talking about are on the "keepers" that hold the coil springs onto the rear axle at the bottom of the coils. The threads are left-handed on both sides (to compensate for the "twisting" movement of the springs when they contract). On my car, we found that someone had apparently been unaware of this and had stripped out the threads on one side. He had then drilled it out to a larger diameter and substituted a right-hand nut and bolt. Don happened to have an extra "correct" left-hand keeper which he generously gave me, so my car is now back to the proper configuration. With regard to Konrad's sore arms, I will soon be posting a wrap up on this job with an account of what we learned that may help other people in the future. As I said at the beginning of the transmission job, I know that this may just be another day in the shop for many of you, but it never hurts to post what we've learned along the way that may be of some help to others.
  16. 6 points
    You would want to be totally honest and sincere-- and knock, don't push, on the door of opportunity. People can usually detect greed and insincerity. Most people appreciate honest buyers and want their cars to go to a good home.
  17. 6 points
    I think I'm going to start printing my website in a magazine format. If you want to buy a car from me, there is now a 10% buyer's premium to cover my own costly and unnecessary decision. If the price is $50,000, be sure to bring $55,000 with you. You know, to cover my overhead. Thanks!
  18. 6 points
    Former Buicktown member, Brian, is selling his '55 Buick Super due to health issues. He is the third owner of the car which he purchased from southern California in 2004. Original owner died in 1982, years later his widow sold the car to her nephew, and Brian bought it from him. He has all of the original documentation for the car. This is a really straight Buick. Using Haggertys valuation guide, it is a strong #2, close to a #1. Millage shows 68,880. Runs and drives great. In addition to the car, Brian had purchased another '55 for spare parts, and has spare engine, transmission, etc. that is included with the car if wanted. Car is located Flint, Michigan. Asking price is $26,000. For more information, contact the owner, Brian: home phone 810-732-5011, or cell 810-730-4856.
  19. 6 points
    Just had to post this comparison of my left front wheel. First photo is the day after I brought the car home from Florida. The tire was partially off the rim so while driving up the interstate, the wind actually got under the tire and was beginning to pull it off the rim. We had to stop and put duct tape on the tire to keep it on in a driving rainstorm. What fun 🤪
  20. 6 points
    To continue with the brakes, I had first to do the links transmitting the movement from the brake shaft and the actuator lever. The link is curved to clear the differential. I don't know how much space is between link and differential on the real cars; on the model, I will have to be careful by not spraying too much paint!
  21. 6 points
    So the good news is I have a set of rare headlights from a marque that was only in business for a few years and there are now only about ten now known to exist. The bad news is I have a set of rare headlights from a marque that was only in business for a few years and there are now only about ten known to exist! 🤣
  22. 5 points
    Yes, because a Duesenberg J convertible coupe is just so slow, clumsy, and un-roadworthy. Who would want to drive one of those?!? I always find it amusing that people justify their creations like this by saying they merely wanted something they can drive. If that's true, why does this thing have only 800 miles on it? I have a client who puts that many miles on his real Duesenberg every month in the summer. Besides, if I want something that drives like a Ford E350 cargo van, well, I can go rent one. If I want something that drives like a Duesenberg J, I'm pretty sure there's only one way to get that experience. PS: How are all of you driving your antique cars on the roads? I understand that it's well nigh impossible.
  23. 5 points
    That's kind of the opposite of me--if I sell a personal car, I never want to see it again. It's like staying friends with an old girlfriend and she brings her new guy around once in a while so you can hang out. No thanks. Plus if something breaks on the car (which it surely will), it isn't a buddy who will pester you about it. I'd hate to lose a friendship over a car, but it's in most people's nature to want someone else to solve their problems.
  24. 5 points
    Before the internet, it took me about 12 years to find a radiator cap (after someone helped themselves to my original) for my 1931 Dodge....
  25. 5 points
    Here’s a couple, 16 year old me in ‘88 and I duplicated the shot in my parents driveway in ‘09 when I bought the 71 GS. My buddy took the other one for high school photography class. 1988.
  26. 5 points
    Carl was a friend who I always enjoyed meeting and talking to at the national meets. He was a great listener before he spoke which is one reason he had so much wisdom to share. As Ed said, always more than willing to share his knowledge with anyone in need and did it with great humility. RIP Carl and my condolences to his family. This is a reminder that you never know when that ROA friend or acquaintance you are talking to at a national meet might be the last time you see them so make the most of those moments. Peace
  27. 5 points
    Even if I'm shaping metal since years, sometimes I'm too optimistic. As the weather was mild recently, I went to my store room/garage to shape a piece of wood on which I would "stamp" the rear axle halves like the original part (first picture). I cut a piece of brass 0.5mm thick, annealed it and began to bang and bend it. Well, the metal did not respond like I wanted; the end result was just good for the trash as you will see on the second picture. I had to think how to continue it; from 2 possible options, I choose the one which I will have to silver solder the flancs in the middle. The last picture is where I'm now. Of course, with a right die set, the pressing would have been possible. However, for that kind of metal forming, the wood is way too soft.
  28. 5 points
    And me running my mini swing shovel. It's a "Dandy Dave's L'il Digger." I put it together out of discarded parts and left over bits of scrap metal. Assembled in 2001 and none of the parts were meant to be part of a swing shovel. The undercarriage was from a Vermeer W 1-A Trencher. The swing gear is off of a McCormick-Deering horse drawn corn binder. Motor was from a Jacobsen lawn mower. Forward and reversing clutches from a Wayne Road Sweeper work the crowd. An old builders winch for the hoist. Fabricated the deck, swing pin, bucket, boom, gantry, and other stuff. Folks that see it in action just say, "Why, that's just Dandy Dave." Hence the name. 😃
  29. 5 points
  30. 5 points
    First off, convince yourself to seek out a similar car that is for sale at a reasonable price in running condition! The biggest reason people want a certain car is because they can't have it. There are far more cars for sale than you will ever want, so start shopping.
  31. 5 points
    Me on a 1957 Agricat Dozer that I rescued. These were manufactured in Berkley, California Not a car but sure turns a lot of heads.
  32. 5 points
  33. 5 points
    Took this photo over the weekend, not the best car in my collection, but it is my favorite car. I am the third owner of this piece of Chevrolet history. Every time I drive it I feel like I am 20 years old again, until I have to get out of it..... This was at George Albright's Charity show in Ocala Florida. George is a contributor to this site and also the Tax Collector for Marion County FL and runs a great show where the money goes to charity! Great Job George thanks John
  34. 5 points
    Here's mine. 1941 Buick Super . 23,800 original miles at purchase July 2011 Mankato MN. I'm the third owner. A Minnesota car from new til 2011. (NO RUST ☺️) current mileage 35,430. had her out today for a 30 mile run. I've enjoyed seeing you guys with your cars. Thanks Victoria Lynn. Great idea.☺️ Wayne Fresno, Ca.
  35. 5 points
    My auction catalogs are like most of my other magazines - they were interesting when I first looked through them, but very few ever got looked at a second time. Terry
  36. 5 points
    The shocks are adjustable with five positions via a control lever to the left of the steering column connected to a ride regulation gauge on the dash indicating free to firm.
  37. 5 points
    Found in a pile of Buick photos
  38. 4 points
    Both rear axle halves are ready to get silver soldered together. They are far from pretty, some cosmetic improvement is in order!
  39. 4 points
    Not weekend yet but getting ready to drive to AACA Winter Nationals about 12 miles away. Hopping for a Jr. Award
  40. 4 points
    Good morning. My name is Patrick Reeve and my father and son and I run a machine shop that we specialize in early engines and drive lines. If any one needs them, a couple of years ago we made a couple sets of conn. rods to replace the hinged rods that are of H beam style and ARP rod bolts, 4140 annealed and stressed relieved material . We made them for insert type bearings or we can Babbitt them also. They are for the 1.625 size rod journal crank pin diameter( I believe the earlier style crank). If any one needs them, just let me know. Thank you, Patrick 315-663-1569 cell or 315-655-8812 shop
  41. 4 points
    A bit more progress. Frame is all repaired, and with first coat of primer.
  42. 4 points
    If you have a few South Bend lathes, and a Bridgeport mill with lots of tooling and attachments. The ability to weld, braze, and solder and fabricate what you don't have. A well equipped wood working shop to boot then go for it. Otherwise you'll need deep enough pockets to send it to someone like me who can do all that stuff. Stuff for off brand brass era cars is just not laying around everywhere. If memory serves me correctly the front axle on a one cylinder Brush is made of wood. The engine runs left handed or counter clockwise. Dandy Dave!
  43. 4 points
    I have used Jet-Hot in the past and have been pleased with it. Unfortunately, the best they offer is a flat black and I'm not sure that's what I want on this particular car. They would also have to remove the porcelain and I'm not sure how the raw cast iron will look without it. With the porcelain intact but discolored, I'm hoping that the high-temp paint will be sufficient. Perhaps between the 1200-degree semi-gloss black I'm applying now and the 2000-degree gloss clear, it'll look good and survive. The exhaust on this car shouldn't see more than about 800 degrees at worst, which is well below the paint's "rating" (although I've learned that temperature ratings are often very optimistic). The manifolds are easy enough to remove so if the paint fails once I start driving it, I'll pull them off and do something different next winter. Hopefully this paint survives. It was with all that in mind that I did some additional manifold painting today. First I tapped the exhaust crossover passages, which was easy enough. The cast iron is a little "gritty" but I was able to cut clean threads nonetheless. They aren't super deep, so I hope a plug will hold securely--perhaps a little bit of brazing to hold it in place would be a good idea. Is there a high-temperature Lok-Tite? I'll have to look and see. Crossover passage tapped for 1/2-NPT threads and sandblasted. Once the holes were tapped, I simply did the same thing that I did the other day--clean up the rusty mounting ears in the blast cabinet and paint the primary exhaust manifolds. The porcelain is spalling a bit but I don't know how visible it'll be once the paint is dry and the manifolds are mounted. The photo below shows the passenger's side manifold in roughly the position it'll be on the engine--that surface facing the camera is the important one since it'll be most visible above the cylinder heads. In that area, the porcelain is in pretty good shape. It sure looks good when the paint is wet. Passenger side exhaust manifold with first coat of paint. The directions on the paint says to either-coat within one hour or after 48 hours, so I added a second coat on pieces I painted two days ago. I still have the other intake manifold to blast and paint but with good results like this, I'm confident in the process. Besides, the intakes seem to run a lot cooler so the paint should survive without issues. I ordered some of the high-gloss clear so that will be the final coat. It air-dries within about two hours and can be handled in six hours, but it needs heat to fully cure. I won't really know anything about the final finish until everything is reassembled and back in the car and the car is running. Second coat on the parts looks pretty good. So far, so good...
  44. 4 points
    I'm happy to report that we got the transmission back in the car this morning, and a shake-down cruise around the block revealed no problems. I have yet to give it the "acid test" of coasting down a long downgrade in third gear, but I am pretty certain we took care of the problem of it popping out of gear. I am extremely grateful to my friends Don, Konrad, and Tom for all the help and support! What a great hobby! Neil
  45. 4 points
  46. 4 points
    I couldn't get thru the weekend without problems, of course. When I moved the chassis out of the garage, I noticed that what I thought was neutral was not neutral, but 2nd gear. I shifted it into neutral and here is the position of the shifter (Photo 1), way up front. There was no way to shift it into 1st or 3rd, there is no room. Luckily, I was able to move the chassis around in the meantime. Here's the clean garage and where I placed the chassis for now (Photo 2). I went on the MGA forum to ask for any ideas on what may be causing this and I got some ideas about the split ring that connects the shifter unit to the internal linkage. I had to take apart my nice work on the trans tunnel to access the shifter unit. I took it out and took some of it apart to see if I could figure it out, and everything looked fine. I then went to the trans itself to see if an adjustment could be made on the paw and main shaft, to allow the shifter to get a central neutral position. It was easy to adjust as THE REBUILDER FORGOT TO PUT IN THE BOLT THAT SECURES THE PAW TO THE MAIN SHAFT! ( you can see the hole at the bottom of the assembly on Photo 3). A forum friend was able to locate an original bolt for me, so I'll have that fixed soon. So disappointed that nothing, just nothing is done correctly by these people that you pay a good sum to, only to get shoddy, half-hearted work. I wonder how the inside of the transmission is now. Anyway, this should fix the problem once I get the bolt in there. Once that got squared away, I got right into the body work again. Starting back on the bonnet (Photo 4). IT's been sitting for a while, so some flash rust has come back on the steel areas, so I cleaned up the steel section around the outside and sprayed it with some rust inhibitor to stabilize any remaining rust. I'll have to do that with most of the steel frame, as it was all a little rusty and it flashes back pretty quickly. I'll leave the aluminum alone and hit the whole thing with good primer once I clean up all the steel frame. After the bonnet, I'll do the doors, which are half-way completed already.
  47. 4 points
    Thanks John! Another post which is more or less déjà vu: The rear brakes are now ready; they are similar to the front ones. The support plate has another shape due to the differences between front and rear axle. I can continue with the differential; there are 4 flanches to do: 2 which will be part of the diff body, one for the cover and the last one for the differential carrier or pumpkin. By the way, did you know that Cadillac cars from 1932 had adjustable shock absorbers? The shop manual is not very detailed nor has a good system's description. If I'm right, there were 5 possibilities which could be set from the driver's seat. All four shock absorbers were connected with rods, adding the complexity to that frame. As you see, it was not an invention from recent years.
  48. 4 points
    I drove the car to the muffler shop with open exhaust. It was loud. I didn't get pulled over for excessive noise. Ha! They fitted the Y pipe and connected it to existing exhaust pipe. The muffler shop also made the extension piece for the air filter. All painted and looking good. Went for a test drive and she runs really well. Nice bottom end torque for backing up hill slowly to get out of my driveway and on the interstate there is plenty of power. Next, I'll be checking the gas mileage. Dave
  49. 4 points
    A fellow member sent me a PM the other day cautiously asking about some of the information from a previous thread about this car, especially the details about metal stitching. I realized that I had a lot of details there but they're all wiped and while we've talked vaguely about metal stitching elsewhere, it's still kind of like black magic to a lot of people--myself included before I saw how it worked. Shortly after the car arrived in July 2018, my son Riley and I were doing some tinkering at the shop. While the Lincoln was idling in the parking lot, Riley pointed at the side of the engine and asked, "Where's that water coming from?" With a flashlight, I was quickly able to ascertain that it was not the water pump, not a head gasket, not a hose, but a hole in the side of the cylinder block weeping coolant. Oh boy… Just a little drip on the side of the block... ...which required this much material to be removed. Also note the crack extending up to the deck surface as well as the sleeved cylinder and .030 pistons--someone in the past knew about the damage and just covered it up and ignored it. With some investigation, we found that the block had cracked sometime in the not-too-distant past and that whomever had discovered the damage had hastily covered up the hole with some epoxy and painted the engine block to hide it. Obviously that is neither a correct nor a permanent repair, and it caused me no small amount of consternation in the days that followed. A few phone calls revealed that rebuilding a Lincoln K V12 costs roughly 70% of this particular car's total value, and that's provided I could find a replacement block. The solution? I would remove the engine from the car and send it to Frank Casey in Massachusetts who is reportedly the world's finest practitioner of the arcane art of metal stitching. Yes, metal stitching. Knitting cast iron together without the use of heat. Skeptical? So was I. It works and seems like nothing short of a miracle. There's sound science behind it and metal stitching can save ancient metal parts once thought irreparably damaged and do it without the fear of future issues. Forget what you know about repairing cast iron. The following photos are from a variety of sources (including my own block) showing how the process works. I could describe it, but the process seems so much like black magic that you really have to see it with your own eyes to understand. Have a look: A fresh chunk of cast iron was stitched into place creating a permanent repair that will be invisible once the block is painted. The crack on the deck was also stitched and machined smooth. Pressure testing held 40 PSI for three days. Repair is good. How metal stitching works. Overlapping threaded studs called "laces" replace the damaged metal and lock into place using reverse-tapered threads. They can be ground, machined, painted, and finished to be completely invisible. Think this block is toast? Guess again. Amazing repairs can be achieved with metal stitching. Metal stitching can save ancient metal parts once thought irreparably damaged and do it without the fear of future issues. There are those who claim to be able to weld cast iron, but they are few and cannot guarantee success. Specialized materials and techniques, including preheating the castings in an oven and cooling them at a controlled pace are keys to success, but it is impossible to know how an ancient casting will react to the stress of welding decades after it was made. Add in oil contamination, porosity, the typically low quality of the materials used in the past, and the unpredictable nature of shattered metal, and you have a process that is far from a sure thing. Many of you have seen hackneyed work-arounds when replacement castings cannot be found, and in many cases, valuable, irreplaceable parts are scrapped simply because there are no alternatives. The stitching process is very much what it implies, a literal knitting together of metal parts using tiny holes with specialized metal fittings called locks and laces. They not only reinforce the repair, but fill the cracks permanently, rendering an air- and water-tight surface that can be machined, drilled, tapped, and stressed just as if the damage had never existed. It is as much art as science and is probably not for the do-it-yourself hobbyist without significant practice. But as you can see, the process can salvage parts that most of us would have considered scrap. I was able to keep my engine largely assembled, eliminating the expense of a full rebuild, something that would not have been possible with any of the welding processes. Once the engine is reassembled and painted, the repair will be invisible and should last another 80 years without issue.
  50. 4 points
    August 1984 Some 33 years later...