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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    More and more, cars make NO ECONOMIC SENSE, that said, why should they. I buy and drive what I like, to hell with the money/cost/out. While I don’t want to flush money down the drain, a well lived life for a car guy with gasoline in his veins means owning and driving interesting vehicles. Keeping it in perspective and within ones means is reasonable, but I have made and lost seven figures on cars in the aggregate, in the end, what does it matter. I have had more fun than any reasonable person could expect. And I’m still doing it. I plan to die broke, shrouds don’t have pockets. Ed PS- One can always make more money, no one can buy more time.......no matter how much you have. Drive you car.......your time is shorter than you realize.
  2. 11 points
    As the jig is ready, why wait longer to glue the letters? To avoid scratches on the paint, I glued a piece of paper at the “B” side of the jig. Then, I attached it temporarily on the trunk and I tried if the first letter, the middle “N” would fit. As the jig was not following the curve from the trunk lid, the letter went a bit under the jig. I tried to restore its position with a screwdriver and I heard “tic” and no N anymore. Nothing around the car…No good at all. As I had no clue about the possible path, I began to search on the floor in the supposed way; I found nothing. Nothing? Not true: I found a partly finished part from a hinge which flew years ago! After maybe two hours without positive result, I decided to remove the jig and correct its shape. And what did I saw? The “N”! It did not fly away, but went under the jig! What a relief! Indeed, I could glue 3 letters each time; therefore I had to prepare less 2 K glue. I will have to clean a bit the lid (I put too much glue at the first letter); I will wait 1 or 2 days to do that. Indeed, I’m satisfied; the distance between letters may not be the same left and right, but it’s hard no notice it.
  3. 10 points
    Here is a pic of my 55 Buick Century that I am restoring , bought it 2 years ago it look better than it was, have gutted the interior and doing all new wiring ,completed a total brake rebuild every thing has been changed in the brake department. All chrome has been or is being done , new paint, all new exhaust , new steele window rubber. There is a lot more to this rebuilt like when It was unloaded off the trailer and put is my garage and the next day backed car out my garage to clean up and on driving car back in to the garage the brakes failed and I ran into 2 other cars and did $ 9.000 damage. My luck has not been good with this car, hope it gets better with this rebuild. SID
  4. 10 points
    The front of the can has a "WARNING- Harmful If Swallowed..." statement, so its not old. In the old days, people just didn't drink that sh**. They had more sense than people today.
  5. 9 points
    I would call a vehicle "original", if it's an unrestored, as it left the factory, vehicle. If it has been restored, I would call it "restored to original condition". As the saying goes "it's only original once". It can be the finest, most expensive restoration, but it's not original it's restored!
  6. 9 points
    The point is that any representative democracy (club, government, etc.) is at risk of having those selected to represent the entirety of the club/public/whatever deciding that they are no longer beholden to the whole of those whom they represent, but rather to a select few.
  7. 8 points
    What does it mean TODAY? Absolutely nothing!
  8. 8 points
  9. 7 points
    Here are the 4 "blanks" for the banjo fittings. Not surprisingly, the last one came out best but all of them are acceptable. I made the high head bolts that hold down the valve cages. They are OK but I was frustrated by the fact that original period bolts usually have a slight crown to the head. At the time I made the bolts, I couldn't do that so I put a slight chamfer on the edges. They obviously work but they didn't look right. So, I set the radius tool to as large a radius as I thought it could turn without chattering and put one of the bolts in the lathe. This job is much easier to do because the radius is fixed. All you are doing is moving it in and that can be done by moving the saddle of the lathe. I took very small cuts and left the machining marks - which are very light. Now, rather than looking like I made them they just look like old bolts.
  10. 7 points
    Asking for pricing advice here will get you lots of opinions but probably not any closer to a deal or a real number. In my opinion, the buyer is the sole arbiter of what constitutes a "good deal." That is, if you feel like you got your money's worth, then that is all that matters. If you're going to pour through price guides and ask opinions, well, the numbers are going to be all over the map and you'll have a hard time recognizing a good deal or a bad deal when it presents itself. It's good to have a frame of reference and at least a range in which these cars can live, but without seeing a car in person and evaluating it personally, there's just no way to say what you should or shouldn't pay for a car. $67,500 seems like an awful lot for a rusty Hurst Olds, '69s aren't as valuable as '70s, and you do want to make sure that it is not only numbers-matching but also a real Hurst, which probably wasn't coded into the VIN since it was built by an outside vendor (I'm not positive, but I'm sure an Olds expert will be able to confirm or deny this). Bear in mind that while you seem to think $40-45,000 is a reasonable offer, the seller might not. That's 1/3 less than he's asking and even if he's way off base, that can be offensive. I don't suffer fools lightly in my showroom and I know that I won't be able to make a deal with a guy who's that far away so I don't even try. HE obviously thinks it's worth that much--even if he's wrong, it will be hard for the two of you to find a common ground if you're that far apart. Don't waste a trip if you don't think he's going to be receptive to your numbers. You should probably negotiate price before you go visit to determine whether it's even worth your time. If you negotiate $45,000 and show up and it's worse than you thought, then you can walk away. I'd recommend settling on a price with him before you go, not while you're there. That will tell you if it's going to be a wasted trip or not. Also, if you're seeing restored cars running through auctions for $50-75,000, perhaps you should buy one of those instead of this rusty fixer-upper. A little rust inevitably turns into a lot of rust and you'll be into that range long before the paint is dry on a project. With just a quick look, I can find two for sale right now, one with a dealer known for egregiously high prices @$89,900 and one in Oklahoma for $59,995. If you want one of these and have $45,000 to burn, I'd be looking VERY hard at that $59,995 car. Maybe it's more than you want to spend right this moment, but you won't be able to take any car with rust that you purchased for $40,000 and restore it into a car that nice for $20,000. Does that make sense? Go see it, evaluate it, and decide if it's worth your time to restore it. It will cost you twice what you expect to restore it, maybe 3-4 times more. If you're not ready for that, then a finished car with a slightly higher price tag is where I'd be shopping instead. Good luck!
  11. 6 points
    John I want you to know that I agree with Jack you set the bar that it is going to be tough for the next person that has to follow in your foot steps. While I don't always agree I always respect your opinion. The BCA owes you a big thanks for all of your efforts during your time on the BCA I can think of easier things to do than run for the BOD but I wont go into that Thanks for your efforts Chuck
  12. 6 points
    The Anderson-Overland Company was built in 1924-25 in Anderson, SC, as an Overland dealership and was later Olds-Cadillac, Buick, AMC, then Datsun/British-Leyland. Designed by local architects Casey and Fant, in 1981 it became storage for a car repair shop, and fortunately its original tri-fold showroom doors survive for the building's future restoration. There are mezzanine level offices, with access by a ramp from the showroom, street level to an unfettered upstairs space with parking for about a dozen cars. Three of us AACA'ers use the building for car storage and light repairs. The AACA Library & Research Center's 1955 Chevy Bookmobile shared this upstairs space for many years before its 2011 donation. Here she is making a Rip Van Winkle-like debut coming down the ramp after years of slumber. It's a pretty cool place, and an amazing survivor! TG
  13. 6 points
    "I also want to agree with your observation that the BOD should not expect others to do what they won’t. Also, that the BOD should be more responsive to the member’s requests. When 100 people vote for an action, and 5 members of the BOD vote against that action, with no explanation, then that is a BOD consisting of people who have their own agenda, regardless of what is right for the Club. We can see in the latest minutes that were posted, that there are two voting blocs currently. What is missing is what Willis suggested, the ability to compromise. So, I am hoping there are at least two BOD candidates who show the ability to work across the aisle for the betterment of the Club". John : your wisdom and counsel on the BOD are badly missed as is your efficiency as Secretary.
  14. 6 points
    Chuck, you make some astute observations in your post of 1/15/2019. However, here is a different take on the BOD members responsibilities. You (and Willis) have indicated that the BOD members should take the time to learn the nuances of the problems before the BOD, be it the financial issues or contracts with vendors and/or whatever else comes before the Board. You also have indicated that the basic job of the BCA is to fund the magazine, the national meet, and to listen to the members. In my opinion the reason the BCA has been successful with the Bugle and the National Meet is because there is a disconnect between the BOD and the function. Pete and Cindy do an excellent job on the Bugle, and the National Meet Committee has done good job of assisting local committees to run well organized and fun National Meets. It is directly because the BOD allowed a committee to focus on the problem at hand, rather than trying to manage every aspect of the issue, that these two elements of the Club have been consistently excellent. If the BOD would stop trying to micro manage every aspect of whatever issue is before them, and instead, authorize committees to make learned recommendations, it wouldn't be necessary for every member of the board to be experts on every issue before them. As I am sure you are aware, the tendency on the BOD is for everyone to make their point and recommendation, but regardless of all good intentions, not everyone has the proper background to make the best recommendations and, in fact, given that there are 9 BOD members, the BOD can often run off topic and miss important nuances of whatever they are working on. So, if the BOD would consider reaching out to the members, and establish some committees with people who are trained in the aspects of the problem they are working on, then perhaps there would be some forward progress on the issues that seem to have stymied the Club. I also want to agree with your observation that the BOD should not expect others to do what they won’t. Also, that the BOD should be more responsive to the member’s requests. When 100 people vote for an action, and 5 members of the BOD vote against that action, with no explanation, then that is a BOD consisting of people who have their own agenda, regardless of what is right for the Club. We can see in the latest minutes that were posted, that there are two voting blocs currently. What is missing is what Willis suggested, the ability to compromise. So, I am hoping there are at least two BOD candidates who show the ability to work across the aisle for the betterment of the Club.
  15. 6 points
    Wrong, it's the missing soap dish off David Buicks bathtub , I'm sure the museum would like to have it back. Seriously, I think it should be donated to the Buick truck guru, Larry Schramm, I bet he could use a soap dish in his garage
  16. 6 points
    I thought you would like the color combo, Joe! It really is a nice car. Dare I say it's nicer than Laurel was (my 58 Roadmaster). It came with a binder containing several pre/during/post restoration photos and a few little literature trinkets. Also, a copy of the November 1996 Bugle with it on the back cover was included.
  17. 6 points
    Offer the cars🙄 for free? Really and I am expected to just take all that time off of work, perhaps a month just to get a car out, busting my butt and give it away? I have to now work for nothing? Do you work for nothing? Don't know about you but I have a family to take care of. Some of you just don't seem to understand the amount of hard labor and time that is involved just getting the cars out and down to the main drive, which by the way is over a mile away and also overgrown with woods from where the main building is, so they can easily be picked up. Would you give away something that say, your grandparents saved for 80 years to someone outside of your family and would you also put in hard labor as well to do that? No, you would not.
  18. 6 points
    The step is from a 1915 Buick C-4 truck or a 1916 Buick D-4 truck. Passenger side. Same as drivers side, except the part of the fender indicates that it is passenger side. Typical of the passenger side, not worn very much. Also note that someone used a blue flame wrench to the step and cut the vertical support off.
  19. 5 points
    Close, but straight up is on, left is off and locked, and right is off and unlocked on the original switch. I just drove mine two days ago and can confirm. TG
  20. 5 points
    We all are entitled to our own opinion but I have a very different take on this portion of your post. When a majority of the voting members of the club elect an officer, and only 100 people present at a meeting join together after having been given some information that is false or misleading try to throw that member out of the club, the members of the board who voted to expel that member would be the ones whose actions would concern me. I hope that the financial secrecy will soon be a thing of the past. I hope that good candidates will run for the board and that the voting members elect candidates who will continue in the improvement and additional transparency in operation of the club. There are places for use of committees, but ultimately, the Board of Directors has to be responsible for the operation of the club.
  21. 5 points
    Had one good warm day just as we got the body off so we rolled her out and power washed 90 years of dirt grease and oil off. I can't believe the condition everything is in.
  22. 5 points
    Top speed would be about the same. The 80 series isn't significantly lighter and frontal area is the same, so wind resistance would be similar to a 90 series. When it was new, it probably ran close to the advertised 80 MPH. Today it might do somewhere in the high 70s... for a little while, anyway. My '32 Model 97 would cruise pretty happily at 55-60 MPH. Too much more than that for an extended period and I would worry about at least one of those long rods ventilating the side of the block. Taking an ancient long-stroke engine and running it flat-out for any period of time seems like a catastrophe waiting to happen (never mind the brakes, suspension, and tires at those speeds). You have to remember that driving conditions in 1932 were vastly different than they are today. There were no highways and even paved roads were not necessarily the norm. Big cars like these were designed to be easy to drive by just leaving them in high gear and letting them creep through town at modest speeds without a lot of shifting. In 1932, if you could find enough pavement to get up to 60 MPH, it was probably considered like going 150 MPH on our highways today--unreasonable and reckless. Flat-out speed was never the point with any manufacturer, it was just bragging rights in advertising more than a recommendation for reasonable cruising speed. I'm going to politely ask you not to try to go 80 MPH in your old Buick. It's not as thrilling as you might think, it proves nothing, and it could end up outrageously expensive. That said, if you bought a car like this and are interested in going fast, you've made a crucial error...
  23. 5 points
    I thought it was you Bernie living the nightmare of the torque tube troubles. Mine did not quite get to the state yours was upon opening up the can of worn parts. However, she was well on her way. I did get 3/8-16 bolts to cut the heads and use as guide pins upon installation. Funny part, with my 54, pushing the tube to connect with the torque ball was a snap. No guide pins at all. Harley Earl must have been smiling upon me that day. I see you painted yours before re-installing, etc. I just plan on removing the years of road grim and revealing the factory marks, etc. The hard lines have been replaced, as well as, the rubber brake hose feeding the rear brakes. I'm all set there. I did advise my wife she may be pushing an axle under the Buick sometime this week. I'll be under it guiding the nose of the torque tube to torque ball. I love a team player!
  24. 5 points
    My symptom was a very light squeak at slow speeds. Mostly I heard it driving into cruise nights. One bearing cap had no rollers. At the time someone on the Forum had been writing that he could not separate his torque tube and transmission. I figured if my joint had let go and jammed the shaft it could twist the splines on my tailshaft and do the same. The short shaft, joints , and bearing on any car that hasn't been disassembled should be suspect. Imron, new brake lines with the spring stone guard makes a nice look only a few see. I did have to have a rear brake hose fabricated. I wanted to be sure it was fresh stock. That was a trip into the City plus $35. I cut the heads off two bolts and made guide pins to ease sliding it back together. That made things go smoothly. I use a hacksaw to cut screwdriver slots where the heads were. It is a big job and opens the whole bottom of the car so I did quite a few more minor jobs; cleaned and renewed undercoating, new exhaust, glass bead and paint wheels, new tires. A lot of the "lipstick" cars haven't had these services done. It is nice to be prodded into them. Here is the final shot. Well, right before I wiped the brake fluid off the tires. Bernie
  25. 4 points
    The yellow paint has probably exited the vehicle. Recommend making a white chalk mark on the distributor base below the #1 spark plug wire port. Then removing the distributor cap. Rotate the engine till the rotor is near the #1 sparkplug wire port. Then manually rotate the engine a small bit while checking for the timing mark in your window. This would be easier to do if you loosen all the plugs first. When you find the timing mark, repaint the line. White or yellow paint inside the groove will work.