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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I will agree with much of this, particularly the part where you should forget values and just have fun with your old cars. Let the future take care of itself. If you're buying and need to "make sure you get a good deal" then I would suggest that you are the only one who gets to decide what a "good deal" entails. If you're happy with the car and the price, regardless of what "the book" says, then that's a good deal. "Overpriced" cars can be good values and under-priced cars can be a rip-off. Don't second-guess yourself, either as buyer or seller. As for auctions, they do tend to artificially inflate prices simply because auction results report all the fees as the sale price, which makes sense, since that's what the buyer actually paid to take the car home (although as Ed points out, the seller probably only got 80% of it). As most of you know, the auction houses recently discovered the "buyer's premium" in addition to the "seller's premium" and most get 10% from both parties. I don't know how everyone just decided that was acceptable, but I find it a remarkable study in separating fools and their money. There will surely be defenders to appear in this thread who say that if they know about the premium, they stop bidding 10% sooner, but that isn't really the point. If I had a car with a $50,000 window sticker on it in my showroom and you said you wanted it, and my next move was to send you an invoice for $55,000, you'd lose your friggin' mind and complain until I knocked $5000 off the price. So don't tell me it's OK; it's just a sucker game that the auctions play because they've somehow convinced everyone that their cars aren't junk and it's the best way to buy. Oh, and the booze is free and maybe you'll get on TV. But I digress. My point is, that even with their artificial fee-inflated values (which, in turn, feed the price guides' algorithms) auctions are pretty much the only real barometer for pricing because they report exactly how much money changed hands for that car. That's all we've got beyond our gut feelings. Some of us have well-tuned guts, some of us still think that Model As will continue to be found in farmer's barns and purchased for $15. Again, that's why I say if you think it's a good deal, it is. Screw what anyone else thinks. You don't ask people if they think your wife is pretty and if they don't, you divorce her, right? Why let someone else do your thinking for you? I do disagree with some of these suggestions for buying a car. The moment you start to talk about your expenses or how hard it will be to get the car home or paying your taxes, I'm tuning you out. Those are expenses we all face if we participate in the hobby and it's not my job to underwrite your fun. I'll sell you the car, but all that other stuff really isn't my problem. Everyone else has to pay their own way, too. I always appreciate an offer but please don't be insulting, even if you and I don't agree on the value of the car. Don't show up with a "take it or leave it" attitude if you've already decided that I'm 40% too expensive. That just wastes my time and makes me dislike you. 10%? Let's talk. I've got my price up front, you shouldn't be surprised when my margins aren't big enough to finance your trip, transportation, sales tax, and a new set of tires. And please don't ask me to negotiate against myself--guys who simply ask, "What's the least you'll take?" usually don't get an answer and if they do, it's the asking price. Doing that kind of nonsense only shows you're a bottom-feeder looking for something on the cheap, not a sincere hobbyist. You probably want this car more than I want to sell it to you. There are thousands of buyers, someone else will come along tomorrow. But how many cars like this are there for you to buy? Go ahead and walk away, I won't chase you--that's a game I don't play. Should you call back, the reception will be cool and you'll find me far less flexible and friendly than I was before you started playing silly games. Be sincere, be forthright, and you'll find I treat you the same and it tends to be a far better experience for everyone involved. Remember that the purchase is just part of the ownership experience. A vast majority of buyers burn up all their goodwill trying to save a few bucks that are largely irrelevant in the grand scheme of owning a car. What they don't realize is that in two years, when they need to know something about the car or want a reference or need me to fix their paperwork because they tried to cheat on their taxes and failed, I'm really not going to be interested in helping them out. You used up all your goodwill with the low price you needed so badly. Anything after that is your problem. Treat me with respect, deal with me in good faith, be reasonable, and you'll find that you have a friend in the business for life. Maybe this sounds harsh, but you should always keep in mind that there's much more to the old car hobby than merely getting a good deal when you buy a car: there's everything that comes after that one single moment. And that's a lot of words.
  2. 7 points
    All sorted ,started ok , hood down , just need somewhere to go, surely we need some bread or milk 😊
  3. 6 points
    Price gudes have hundreds of values in them for cars that don’t even exist, auctions are actual sales. Not the asinine made for tv stuff, but real auctions. Fact of the matter is, it’s not too hard to value cars if you work in the industry. People asking the question most often think they have found a “bargain” or deal........and are out of their area of understanding. I have bought and sold hundreds and hundreds of vehicles and have NEVER used the term or condition code of one to five. It has no real meaning or reference. None. Auctions give a fair basis for what any one particular market is currently doing. I own a early Ford, and would never use a price guide as a basis for selling or buying it. As far as people overpaying at auctions......it happens maybe five percent of the time.......people bottom feeding at auctions happens every single time.......every time. Understanding current trends in the field of what you are buying or selling is more important than any number..........80 percent of the market is in a down or negative territory.........why buy anything that needs work unless it’s one off or very, very unusual. Projects are fine.........but most of the time they don’t make sense from a time/expense/aggravations point of view.
  4. 5 points
    I have always found it amusing when I have been at an auction and a car which is not a #1 sells for a price over #1 in the guide. Then an auction report comes out and that car is described as better than a #1 because it sold for more than the price guide said it should. Or when a #1 car sells for less than it should the report describes it as having problems to help fit into the value in the guide. Another thing that is strange. If a car sells at auction and no other ones have sold for a very long time the average selling price is stated as "not available". Wouldn't the average selling price be the price of the car that just sold? I have also been in the situation where someone has come to look at a car I have for sale and tries to threaten me with the price guide. They get the guide out and break into a heated argument about how the guide is written by experts and is the law of the land. They explain that I have to sell them the car for X amount because this expert or that expert says it is only worth X amount and of course nobody but they would want to buy the car. After hearing this reasoning for many years my response now is "Call the price guide and buy the one they have for sale". But when I say that I am always told that I don't understand and that the price guide doesn't sell cars. Another weird thing is when you have a car listed for less than the price guide nobody calls you up to tell you that your car is priced too low. Price guides are only guides. Sometimes they are more amusing than the Sunday Comics. Other times I wish I could call them up and order 12 cars at the stated #1 value.
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    Each point set opens and closes in sequence. 1 open, 1 closes. 2 opens, 2 closes. 1 opens etc. They are 45o apart. This is from p. 934 of Service Station and Motor Mechanics' Manual, 1940, George George, A.M.I.A.E., M.S.A.E., M.I.A.M., F.I.C.A. Angus & Robertson, Sydney and London.
  7. 3 points
    I've always said If I could buy cars for the Price Guide estimates, I'd buy almost all of them. But then I ask myself would I sell for those prices, Hell No! is the answer.
  8. 3 points
    The '29 Cadillac uses dual points and a four-lobe cam in the distributor (instead of eight) with one coil and one condenser. Either set of points can fire the coil since they're sitting on the same breaker plate and there is only one condenser required since it's still doing 8 cylinders' worth of work. Each set of points fires every other cylinder. The theory was that the points would last longer by firing half as often. I've found that with a good condenser the points will last almost indefinitely in my '29 (good thing because the points are rare and expensive). You don't necessarily need two condensers for two sets of points--the condenser's job is to only dampen the spark that tends to form between the points as they snap open. That spark causes the material transfer between the points and the pitting that ruins points. In theory, the condenser is just a capacitor with a low enough resistance that the current that would be required to jump that gap is diverted into the capacitor. That's why getting one with a correct rating is so important. Two isn't mandatory if one is doing the job adequately. My '35 Lincoln essentially has two separate ignition systems running a single distributor. Two coils, two sets of points, two capacitors, two breaker plates isolated from one another, and one distributor with one rotor firing twelve leads. As long as the capacitor can absorb and discharge the energy in the point gap, it's fine. One, two, one big one, whatever, it doesn't really matter as long as the energy is absorbed before it can make the jump between the points. The capacitor does not play a role in triggering the coil or the spark. The ignition would probably fire without a condenser (for a while, anyway) since it's the points that is causing the magnetic field in the coil to collapse to generate the actual spark. Condensers are just there to make it consistent and reliable, and to increase point life.
  9. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone who contributed advice, technical articles, etc. I still can't claim to be the world's expert, but I now feel like I'm a fairly well-informed buyer and have made my decision. I bought Phillips 66 ISO 460 Compounded Gear Oil. It's a non-EP compounded worm gear and steam cylinder lubricant. It was one of only a few with an ASTM D130 copper corrosion test rating of 1A. That appears to be the most important factor, to protect the gear from corrosion. Even though they all claim to be safe for non-ferrous alloys, nearly all of the other lubes, including Chevron Meropa, are rated 1B. Phillips also specifically states that this product is recommended for differentials on antique and classic cars. It's hard to find any of them in quantities less than a 400-lb barrel, but I was able to buy a 35-lb bucket online from Petroleum Service Company. And you don't have to be a distributor or company to order from them.
  10. 2 points
    Price guides really have no value. Auction prices are the only mechanism you have to establish any range, unless you are a dealer turning a lot of cars. If you can find a few recent public auction sale of the same model car you can use that minus about 20%. You need to factor in options and conditions. A private seller needs to realize they will never get close to the auction price of the same car. If you see a car sell at auction for 100k, assume the seller walked away with about 80k of that.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    price guides are relatively useless.............. I can buy a Mercer raceabout for about 140k according to a price guide, in #1 condition. How about- Ill take 10 of them! guy once brought a price guide to my house for a #3 model A coupe. told me that my car was worth an even 4400. because the guide said so. Told him I would take 10 of them.............. his mouth dropped, crickets, and then he drove away.................. idiot!
  13. 2 points
    At $400, this cover probably has some ability to breathe, while also being somewhat waterproof. In this case there will be very specific cleaning needs. Failure to follow these will destroy the delicate balance, and make the fabric much less waterproof. Unless someone here is 100% familiar with the exact cleaning procedure for this fabric, you MUST contact the company. - Carl
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    This is the service bulletin which Bill and Jim referenced above. Notice the battery is the standard DC-12 that has been flipped around...not a special battery with post relocation. There`s more...but this should suspend any doubt as to what is factory correct Tom Mooney
  16. 2 points
    Notice the date on this drawing..this is surely an engineering drawing which appeared in the factory assembly manual used to assemble the cars in Flint...
  17. 2 points
    Notice the last paragragh and the date of the document..
  18. 2 points
    The cars left the factory with the positive post by the radiator. I forget where I saw it in factory literature in the past to convince myself that they did. Riviera used a cable from terminal post to battery positive post with a number (2982505) that is unique to that car in the Master Parts Book. Also a unique number for the ground cable (2982507). Sorry, that MPB does not provide a cable length, I wish it did. I suspect they are a bit longer to allow them to pass across the top of the battery to the posts out front. There was a service bulletin about routing the cables back behind the post that holds the battery down, to prevent them from rubbing against the trumpet horns, when installed.
  19. 2 points
    When quoting others' postings, I like to edit their length, to bring out just one specific thought. There's no need to have 5 paragraphs and 10 pictures in a quote!
  20. 2 points
    This is photoshop express on an iPad
  21. 2 points
    How can he like Studebakers if he doesn't take very good care of them.
  22. 2 points
    Price guides are not entirely "useless." As for auctions--they are more useless than any price guide. All they show is one guy was willing to pay more for a car than an a roomful of strangers.
  23. 2 points
    Some info in this thread https://forums.aaca.org/topic/319822-1924-dodge-choke-set-up/?tab=comments#comment-1820101
  24. 2 points
    I got my floats from Snyder's Early Ford. Or Gaslight is very inexpensive. $4.95 for a nitrophyl one. $12 50 for Brass . They also have sediment bowls and screens.
  25. 2 points
    Check the tires, change the fluids, fill it with gas, and drive it.
  26. 2 points
    This was a reply we got from the company that supplies the software to our forums, our forums are not custom software, we buy a service and Invision was a leader in this area when we switched over some years ago. At this time, it is impossible for us to spend more on this site as we are in the midst of trying to raise funds for the remodel of our new facility. As it is, operating the forums are a major expense for the club. This may not be the answer you want but at least I dug for the reply Peter and I got based upon a request by one of our moderators. "There are no longer post numbers on the 4.4 system. There actually hasnt been in any of the 4.x series, and these were actually quite a flawed concept. While post 3 for example for you may be one post, it may be a different post for another. For example, post 2 for you may be a hidden post."
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    Who is that idiot spoiling an otherwise pleasant photo of old Buicks???? Oh, it appears to be me
  29. 2 points
    Just out getting groceries yesterday. Nice 75 degree Sunday in Springtown, TX
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Imagine the disappointment of the guy who buys this car with the intent of restoring it and realizes when he's in up to his elbows (having been sold a car that he believes has a correct engine) that he has to find an engine that they only built for three months in 1931? I have a '31 CD8 roadster sitting right outside my office at this moment and I'll agree that it's just about the prettiest thing ever (it's the only car I don't rotate out of the office area because I like looking at it). There's just no way you could take that car in the ad and turn it into this for $70,000.
  32. 1 point
    Know how you feel , was 4 months for me , end of October till today , was getting withdrawal symptoms 😊
  33. 1 point
    Ed, dont mean to burst your bubble, but doubt you are happier then Bill Gates. He is a very happy guy. told me so himself............
  34. 1 point
    Hmmm, I was just about to say "pretty car, but maybe a little too much blue with that interior..." Perhaps my reaction explains the low production number. (On the other hand, Plum-on-Plum = "yum"!)
  35. 1 point
    That's something you'll have to discuss with the engineers who designed it back in '63. Originally, both cables were black. Sometime before you acquired the car, someone has 1)replaced the cables, and 2) replaced the battery, and 3) repositioned the cables. One of the letters that Tom posted shows that only the 4700 model has the positive post "inboard", all the rest are "outboard." I can only guess that it was discovered that in the 4700 model, the positive post was too close to the hood brace; so rather than redesign the battery box, they just turned the battery around. Common sense to me would be to replace the battery with a side post battery and new cables. But then it wouldn't be like "factory."
  36. 1 point
    I don’t always buy bumper guards.... but when I do..... I will try to find a set of straight ones. Darn, hard to find and when they appear they are way up there $$$$$$ that’s why I decided to repair mine
  37. 1 point
    I was thinking the same thing. Would like to add : Better yet, pics from both sides. Good looking engines I'm my opinion. - Carl
  38. 1 point
    There are places that do this in the US. I had a slice in my Tundra’s console top and you can’t tell it was ever there. Ask an rv, auto shop or an apholstory place in your area for a referral.
  39. 1 point
    my 92 vette has leather seats and steering wheel wrap. It feels like hard plastic, there's no give or softness to the material at all.
  40. 1 point
    I'm not surprised it didn't work though I didn't anticipate the reason. One of the things I did this morning was polishing the vanes. I did that with a piece of 500 grit wet or dry using the lapping plate as the flat surface. The result was quite satisfactory. The vanes fell into place from gravity alone. I then assembled the pump and ran it - to no avail. It did pull up a little oil but not enough to reach the pump. I then took the end plate off but left it on the stand so I could easily rotate it and see what was happening. It turns out that the surface tension of the oil is enough to keep the vanes from sliding out. Aside from that, I suspect it will work brilliantly. In fact, it was drawing weakly without the vanes doing anything at all which I take to be a very good sign. The pump is also turning very smoothly. So, now I have to design a fixture to hold the vanes while I drill holes in them for little springs. This is actually a real challenge for me because the fixture will have to be extremely precise. There is very little room to work with and since the vanes were made on the rotor, replacing them could be a major undertaking. I'll have to make the fixture and make a few test vanes to set it up so that when I do make the holes I'm confident they will be in the right place and the right depth. I'd also like to find some real vane pump springs 1/8" in diameter and about 1/2" long. I don 't know if that is realistic...for the moment I'll get something from McMaster Carr but I'm concerned about the huge number of cycles these springs will have to sustain. One potential problem is that the pump itself will be inaccessible when the engine is assembled. To get to it, I'd have to take the engine out and remove the flywheel. Thankfully, that isn't a big deal on a brass car but it isn't the sort of repair you can do on the side of the road.
  41. 1 point
    Ok people, if you have the car lifted, simply turn one of the rear wheels. IF the opposite follows, its a posi. If it rotates opposite, it's an open diff.
  42. 1 point
    The picture that Don posted above shows the correct color. It's a hard color to match and it's a wrinkle finish to boot. Lots of restored '63's have a brighter red non wrinkle color on them. This picture is an excellent reference to what you should strive for if you're going for totally original. Don't use Don's engine as a perfect example though. He installed a Vintage Air A/C unit so his compressor is a later Sanden style unit and his firewall is missing the OE A/C blower box.
  43. 1 point
    Matt, the blackwalls will look great with the trim rings IMHO. In addition to saving money and making the car look like most cars actually looked in the 30s, you will avoid the problems everyone seems to be having now with the whitewalls not staying white.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Leave it to crooked politicians to screw everything up. A few years ago there was legislation pending to destroy all vehicles prior to the date they imposed severe pollution laws. There was a big uprising by we who loved our sport.
  46. 1 point
    Anyone wanting to give away any decent condition pre-war cars because they will be worthless in the near future can contact me. I'll take them.
  47. 1 point
    The Buick Club of New South Wales took a trip to the township of Molong, 170 miles west of Sydney. We had a great roll-up for a 3 day event with approximately 25 Buicks ranging from 1920 to 1980 in attendance. The drought was rather obvious with the landscape brown and dusty with trees beginning to die. At my home on the coast north of Sydney we had flooding! Picture is a member's 1934 Holden bodied barn find.
  48. 1 point
    Large Marge just took Linda and I and our grandson on a 949 mile round trip down to the Boston Mountains and Ouachita Mountains in Northern Arkansas. Left Thursday AM and got back this afternoon. Took in Crystal Bridges museum in Bentonville, the Daisy BB gun museum in Rogers, lunch in Eureka Springs, a Razorback baseball game in Fayetteville, and dinner with family in Alma. Base of operations was a cabin in Lake Fort Smith on the Scenic old 71 highway.
  49. 1 point
    So sorry Ben about your troubles and as others have said, glad you were not hurt! Looks like the Buick can be made whole again, keeping fingers crossed with the Insurance Adjuster. It certainly wasn't something you wanted to have happen with all the car has put you through but especially with messing up plans for a much desired Spring Break! Keep us posted on your thread. Hang in there!
  50. 1 point
    The walnut wheel is nice, but I'm a sucker for the original. The one yours came with is like the one on my '67. I have been going back-and-forth in my head about adding a fitted, black leather wrap to the rim. I think that would be classy and in keeping with the way it could have been offered originally. On the other hand, that skinny, hard rim in my hand while driving is soooo "1960's". There's no mistaking that feel with a contemporary vehicle...