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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    "I also want to agree with your observation that the BOD should not expect others to do what they won’t. Also, that the BOD should be more responsive to the member’s requests. When 100 people vote for an action, and 5 members of the BOD vote against that action, with no explanation, then that is a BOD consisting of people who have their own agenda, regardless of what is right for the Club. We can see in the latest minutes that were posted, that there are two voting blocs currently. What is missing is what Willis suggested, the ability to compromise. So, I am hoping there are at least two BOD candidates who show the ability to work across the aisle for the betterment of the Club". John : your wisdom and counsel on the BOD are badly missed as is your efficiency as Secretary.
  2. 2 points
    Fellowship is what it is all about. Paul and I have been friends for 40 years. He knows his stuff and is a skilled craftsman. Old cars give us the pleasure and relief from all the everyday stuff we have to put up with, have to cope with - the old cars are the "fun" thing we can always count on to give us pleasure , even when they get a bit difficult to sort out. We have great respect for stuff that has survived several world wars where they could have wound up in scrap drives for the materials that they were made from. All old cars in some way are unique and great, and of course we all have our favorites. AACA recognizes cars/vehicles 25 years old or older and thanks to them a lot of machinery is being preserved. I can appreciate post WWII era cars very very much, love them. but if it comes down to a point where you can only keep one old car then some of us "seasoned" collectors ( substitute 'old buggers' for that if you want) still think that "Running boards rule".😏 Walt G.
  3. 2 points
    Chuck, you make some astute observations in your post of 1/15/2019. However, here is a different take on the BOD members responsibilities. You (and Willis) have indicated that the BOD members should take the time to learn the nuances of the problems before the BOD, be it the financial issues or contracts with vendors and/or whatever else comes before the Board. You also have indicated that the basic job of the BCA is to fund the magazine, the national meet, and to listen to the members. In my opinion the reason the BCA has been successful with the Bugle and the National Meet is because there is a disconnect between the BOD and the function. Pete and Cindy do an excellent job on the Bugle, and the National Meet Committee has done good job of assisting local committees to run well organized and fun National Meets. It is directly because the BOD allowed a committee to focus on the problem at hand, rather than trying to manage every aspect of the issue, that these two elements of the Club have been consistently excellent. If the BOD would stop trying to micro manage every aspect of whatever issue is before them, and instead, authorize committees to make learned recommendations, it wouldn't be necessary for every member of the board to be experts on every issue before them. As I am sure you are aware, the tendency on the BOD is for everyone to make their point and recommendation, but regardless of all good intentions, not everyone has the proper background to make the best recommendations and, in fact, given that there are 9 BOD members, the BOD can often run off topic and miss important nuances of whatever they are working on. So, if the BOD would consider reaching out to the members, and establish some committees with people who are trained in the aspects of the problem they are working on, then perhaps there would be some forward progress on the issues that seem to have stymied the Club. I also want to agree with your observation that the BOD should not expect others to do what they won’t. Also, that the BOD should be more responsive to the member’s requests. When 100 people vote for an action, and 5 members of the BOD vote against that action, with no explanation, then that is a BOD consisting of people who have their own agenda, regardless of what is right for the Club. We can see in the latest minutes that were posted, that there are two voting blocs currently. What is missing is what Willis suggested, the ability to compromise. So, I am hoping there are at least two BOD candidates who show the ability to work across the aisle for the betterment of the Club.
  4. 2 points
    Welcome to a wonderful Club. Nothing special except to hand oil the felt pads on the rocker arms about every 600-800 miles. In 29 Franklin used Delco Remy ignition, starter and generator all fairly common, reliable, and parts are not hard to find. In fact the distributor cap, rotor, points and condenser are 48-52 Chevy, available at any autoparts store and total cost is less than many other makes of NOS caps. Rhode Island Wire Service has available duplicates of the original Franklin wiring harnesses, along with the option of adding a turn signal unit and it's wiring built right into the harnesses to look original. All you'd need is to find a second tail light for the right side. For the rest, it uses the car's original lights. That Club member is only selling replacement updraft carbs for the 1928 and the early production 1929 because those used pot metal carbs. That is the era that many automotive die cast pot metal parts are crumbling from inter-granular corrosion. The pot metal carbs of the late 1920s can be a risk to use. For the last half of 1929 and on until end of production in 1934, Franklin used cast iron Strombergs - which are one of the best updrafts ever made. If you go looking for a 29, bring a small magnet and see if it sticks to the fuel bowl. If it doesn't don't fret, that member has replacement carbs for each of the two size 29 engines that are sized to work properly with that engine and they are a true auto carb, not an industrial stationary engine carb like some that have been sold in the past. Tire sizes and tubes are not an oddball so you have choices. The Club is reproducing and selling many of the parts that are no longer available. That project has been going for many years, is well funded, and is still growing as demand shows up. There's a few things different about the engine as far as rebuilding and proper assembly, but the Club's website has 15 years of indexed Q&A from two long-time members who own/operate full-time restoration shops very familiar with Franklins. Between the two of them they have at least 70 years experience with Franklins of all ages. That Q&A section has answers/solutions to pretty much any question or problem you would every encounter with a Franklin. The rest of the drive trains are fairly common and use top of the line components, such as Spicer drive shafts, Detroit, or Warner transmissions, etc.. Many of the ball bearings and seals are still being made. If I can help with anymore questions about Franklins, please feel free to pm me. Good hunting. I look forward to someday meeting you and your Franklin ! Paul
  5. 1 point
    My Grandfather passed a while back and I have the opportunity of purchasing a car from the estate and simply must share some pictures. It seems that my boy is totally into old cars his favorite being model T speedsters. Just today we were at a friends and rather than play with the tons of toys at their house the most fun was speedsters up in the garage. We are currently building a '27 speedster and have come put to CA to bring back my grandfathers car that we will be keeping for ourselves. It is so nice I hope to repair the paint chips and keep the original paint. P.S. The tractor is one my Grandfather built for me that I repaired for him. P.P.S. He just turned 4
  6. 1 point
    Ken said he sold the car to a collector who said he's going to keep it stock.
  7. 1 point
    Great photos, BabyChadwick!! These two young men (men, because this picture was taken some 22 years ago) had two great-grandfathers that belonged to car clubs with Rolls-Royce, Packard and Delahaye ownership. Both of their grand fathers were club members, their father and and four uncles are club members, and they both now own their own collector cars/antiques.
  8. 1 point
    I see the rear area has been shortened. If the face and horn area is a separate piece, it is an original. If the face and horn area is part of the cast body, I believe it is a reproduction.
  9. 1 point
    Poorboy it, split some radiator hose and slip around it, then cover the hose with a Steering Wheel Cover..
  10. 1 point
    Sir, I checked out the Joe Gibbs 15W-50 oil. The benefits they advertise seems as though is what I’m After. The 9.00 and change a quart is a sticker shock. I’m just accustomed to paying lesson for engine oil. Then again I once bought 6 bottles of Budweiser for $1.50 and a pack of Marlboros for .30. Times and things change. Turbinator
  11. 1 point
    Mitch, thanks. Understood. I start the car often in the Winter and let idle for 10-20 minutes. Too much salt on the roads after snow fall. Even if the roads are dry it takes some rain to wash the salt off the road. I undercoated per exact directions with POR 15. I missed spots inside the metal frame supports. I have a plan to get the insides as well. Thanks again for the tip on 4 quarts, new GOOD FILTER, and top off with Marvel. I use only ethanol free gasoline. Turbinator
  12. 1 point
    Hey Sac, I am going to forward this to my buddy with a 31. If you have a price area in mind could you PM me.
  13. 1 point
    It is forums such as this that help make decisions in some instances. Bernies post of the squeak at his u-joint that eventually failed I kept in my memory bank. This summer, backing out of the garage there was a rotational squeak , but only in reverse. In my mind, the u-joint could be going bad as noted from Bernies experience with a squeaking u-joint. I kept tabs on it. Mine recently however, started as a low growl only from 0-40 mph. I'm thinking low front pump pressure per the manual trouble shooting. Sometimes the noise was not present from 0-40. It was a bit elusive but the u-joint was forefront of my mind as the culprit. Then growling started from 0-50 and beyond. Then she started squeaking in forward drive. Then it started clicking. All of this in just driving 15 miles! I nursed her home. Pulled the rear. The forums and people posting their failures of parts and successes in repairs are invaluable.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks, Mike, for letting all us armchair idiots know what a bunch of losers we are. Glad you took the time to breeze in and admonish all of us, as you apparently don’t sit in front of your keyboard ready to tear into posts “like a butcher with a clever” like the rest of us. This must have been a one time occurrence when you happened to do exactly what you’re criticizing the rest of us for doing. Nice to have someone with your acumen in all things automotive set the forum straight.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    If I may state a few issues I continue to see with past BOD and continue to see to day. Its call listen to the folks who pay the bill, by that I mean the members. The members have and always will have the best answer to the problems of the club {not always} The job of BOD member will always be an on the job training and it takes a full year to get up to speed. By then there are now members to get up to speed. The Board has an odd number for one reason, and that is to avoid a tie and a non elected member on the board should NEVER HAVE A VOTE. It upsets the balance period. The Board in the past has not been flexible to new ideas. The board has become bogged down with audit, parking, membership decline, and now office staff and what hours the office will be open and what can the office staff can do. Talk about OJT. Who will do what and when. Lets face it the number one thing the club has to do is publish the Bugle and do a National Meet. The Bugle and the National meet are complex issues and seem to be done very well. The old adage is if it aint broke don't try to fix it. That leaves the Boards one job to put out REAL FIRES and fund the BUGLE and the NATIONAL MEET and to listen to their customers which is us the folks who pay the way. Its pretty simple a candidate should be someone who is willing to learn and listen and be prepared to swim up stream. Just a side note I have written the current board about some issues I have seen in the past and I have only heard from 2 so when the time comes to assign duties to the new office folks don't ask them to do what you as a board member wont do. This board and the future one needs to adapt the SUNDOWN RULE. For what its worth. .
  17. 1 point
    I just read through some of the earlier comments I hadn't had a chance to for a few days. The 1925 thru 1927 series 11 cars had a transmission brake, not four wheel brakes. Four wheel drum brakes started in 1928 series 12 cars. The series 11 is a great running and driving car but best if driven at about 40 mph, stops well but of course 4 wheel brakes stop better. I woud suggest before you buy anything , any make, any year is to see if you can find someone with a similar make , year model, and ask to go for a ride of some length. In response to the comments regarding the 1931 Derham bodied car I had, I wanted to buy it from Jack Edmunds but he sold it to a dealer from Briarcliff Manor, NY , then known as The Imperial Barn. . I bought it from them, not him. I wanted to buy it from him but he decided to sell it to them because they had the cash and it would have taken me longer to come up with that by about a week. this was all 40 + years ago so perhaps his memory was a bit foggy. Three of us restored the car - me, Paul Fitzpatrick and Bob Patchke most all of the work completed in Bob's garage at his house in West Babylon, NY. .
  18. 1 point
    I think it's a 1936 Graham. Yes, I know those are the same body stampings as a 1936 Reo. The trim on the side of the hood looks more like Graham to me, but the picture is to blurry to be conclusive. The trim on the trunk lid however, points to Graham. 1936 Reo: 1936 Graham:
  19. 1 point
    Top speed would be about the same. The 80 series isn't significantly lighter and frontal area is the same, so wind resistance would be similar to a 90 series. When it was new, it probably ran close to the advertised 80 MPH. Today it might do somewhere in the high 70s... for a little while, anyway. My '32 Model 97 would cruise pretty happily at 55-60 MPH. Too much more than that for an extended period and I would worry about at least one of those long rods ventilating the side of the block. Taking an ancient long-stroke engine and running it flat-out for any period of time seems like a catastrophe waiting to happen (never mind the brakes, suspension, and tires at those speeds). You have to remember that driving conditions in 1932 were vastly different than they are today. There were no highways and even paved roads were not necessarily the norm. Big cars like these were designed to be easy to drive by just leaving them in high gear and letting them creep through town at modest speeds without a lot of shifting. In 1932, if you could find enough pavement to get up to 60 MPH, it was probably considered like going 150 MPH on our highways today--unreasonable and reckless. Flat-out speed was never the point with any manufacturer, it was just bragging rights in advertising more than a recommendation for reasonable cruising speed. I'm going to politely ask you not to try to go 80 MPH in your old Buick. It's not as thrilling as you might think, it proves nothing, and it could end up outrageously expensive. That said, if you bought a car like this and are interested in going fast, you've made a crucial error...
  20. 1 point
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  22. 1 point
    That is an entirely different model, from an earlier era. Note it has the 'bent transverse front spring' which was used on the low, price Overland from about 1919 to 1925. It was a model intended to compete with the Ford T.
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  25. 1 point
    No motor/trans -Missoula