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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Turns out dad’s Bronco was much more special than I could have known. Yes, this is it. Same VIN and everything. I didn’t want to sell this and tried not to, but eventually needed to sell it to pay for dad’s care. I promised myself early on that I wouldn’t beat myself up if something like this happened. The plus side, near the end, they remark about how well it was cared for and how original it remained. That would have made dad happy. I don’t know if my dad knew the history, but there was no evidence of it and his insurance values didn’t reflect it if he knew.
  2. 5 points
    No work should be done on the vehicle until the title is squared away!
  3. 3 points
    K.T. Keller on the styling of his 1949-'52 Mopars: "We build cars to set in, not piss over". "Won't knock your hat off, but won't knock your eyes out either." anonymous
  4. 2 points
    My father and I are getting his 1932 Buick Series 50 more road ready then its been in years. We are taking on the front end (very shaky up there!) as well as a pretty big leak out the rear of the transmission. He is the second owner, having bought it in the 1960s. its been on and off the road since then. I look forward to updating you all on this as we go. Below is a pic from around the time he first got it to a recent one of me behind the wheel.
  5. 2 points
    I love those ‘49-52 Mopars, I grew up with them. My first car, 1952 Plymouth Concord business coupe....”the bump”
  6. 2 points
    Good idea, Billy ! This is the only picture I have of any of my cars with the instrument lights on. And it wasn't very dark yet. I wish I could do better, but I will take some pictures in darker conditions when I get my car back. This is my unrestored 1927 Cadillac sedan. The inlay is a Cadillac patented process, used only in 1927. - Carl
  7. 2 points
    This 1955 Buick Century is for sale. The location is Hampton, Virginia. The seller of this car is Scottie. He is asking 22,000 dollars, but says he is negotiable on the price. Here's a couple of pictures of the car...These are the only pictures I have, but I can get more from the seller. Here are the features on this car... 322 nailhead engine (early 1955 version) with 4 barrel carb Power brakes Power steering E Z Eye glass at front windshield and side glass Original spare tire The front bench seat has been completely reupholstered with material matching the original Carpet replaced brand new to match original The engine runs beautifully. The back seat is original and intact, but is tearing at the seams. Headliner is original with no tears. Windshield wiper fluid reservoir and bracket are missing. Seller does have the whole set of original hubcaps. The body is solid. The seller described the odometer reading as actual at 22,555. Here's a photo he took of the odometer as it stands today...I am also told that the title is clean. If you are interested, PM me and I will send you the cell number to contact the seller, Scottie.
  8. 2 points
    The stainless steel panel with engine-turned surface arrived this evening. It looks great! FPM Metals did a fantastic job laser cutting the .063" stainless steel sheet. The part was carefully packaged and covered in protective film. The old domed lenses with their rims drop right in. If you want engine-turned stainless or aluminum parts, FPM Metals is the place to go; happy to find a good vendor. I had to build a small box to hold the older 1932 instruments along the lines of what was in the 1932 President cars, as the instruments sit about 1/2 inch behind the lenses. That box will get screwed in back of the panel. The box needed about twelve 8-32 rivet nuts for mounting the instruments and attaching the box to the dash panel. I tried the technique of using a screw and nut to set the rivet nuts, gave up and went to Harbor Freight for a $23 rivet nut tool - money well spent as it was the best technique for installing rivet nuts. The original 1932 panel didn't have rivet nuts - they pierced the steel box to extrude some metal, then tapped for screw threads, cheap and efficient. Four snap-in instrument light sockets were ordered from Restoration Supply Co., another excellent vendor. Four #1445 miniature bulbs will be ordered for night lighting of the older gauges. The new gauges have built-in lights. I did mess up the dimensions on the opening for the speedometer, made it about 1/4" too large in diameter, realized the mistake one day too late. I machined an aluminum ring from 1/8th inch thick 6061-T6 aluminum to make up the difference. Of course, half way through the machining, the lathe bit dug too deeply into the thin aluminum, yanked the part out of the lathe chuck and turned it into an egg-shaped potato chip against the cross-slide. Stubborn as I am, I tried rounding it out and flattening it, stuck it back in the lathe to finish it. In the end, I spent another half hour lightly tapping the ring to level it within about 0.004", according to my old feeler gauges on a cast iron surface plate, and pinched it round in a vise. It cleaned up well with progressively finer abrasive paper to 1200 grit, wet sanded. The speedometer lens fits the ring and the ring fits the panel - joy! I may have to use acrylic adhesive (Crazy Glue) to hold the ring in the panel, but that will avoid the risk of damaging the ring or panel, and a little acetone can always remove it. I laid out all the switches and instruments (except the recently ordered oil temp gauge, due in a week or so). Tomorrow, I'll start mounting everything. Then it's back to wiring. The instrument panel from FPM Metals with protective, clear plastic over it. The instruments, lenses, and switches laid out for mounting. Instruments with the stainless panel. The 1/2" deep box made for mounting the old instruments. It's hand-fabricated from 0.050" thick aluminum with 8-32 rivet nuts inserted. The big holes were cut on a Craftsman jig saw with a 20-tooth/inch wood-cutting blade and lots of WD-40 for lubricant/cooling. Bends and flanges were turned with, ViseGrips, a 1"x3" steel dolly block, and a body hammer. Instrument box in process with printed paper pattern.
  9. 2 points
    Sorry about that old-tank. But it was much easier to talk offline. Mike was able to let me know some of the things done to the car-- the good, the bad, and the ugly. Including letting me know that he installed a vapor lock switch that might help deal with some intermittent stalling issues I've had. Wish I knew what that switch did a few weeks ago... Let's just say I'm glad it stalled prior to getting on the freeway on-ramp and that I had enough momentum to get to the side of the road! And since he asked for pics from SF, here's one from Napa. Figure that's close enough and I did not need to deal with as much traffic to get it.
  10. 2 points
    I was wondering what an electric shopper was when I saw the ad
  11. 2 points
    Could be a decent deal depending on mechanical condition and function. After all of these years of looking at old car ads, I still can't figure out why sellers think that whether a car runs or not is so irrelevant that they don't need to mention it in the ad. 🙄
  12. 2 points
    Frank, about the only time I use a 3-jaw is to hold hex stock that is too big for a collet. I don't even have a backing plate for it...I just put it in the 4-jaw. I lock a piece of round stock close to the measurement across the flats in the 3 jaw and indicate it by moving the jaws on the 4-jaw. That way it is always very close and even almost repeatable. I'm lucky in that because my small 4-jaw and the 3-jaw chucks came from a local High School where they were hardly used. When they closed down the industrial arts program they threw all the tooling in a dumpster. An old friend (who was the teacher) pulled them out and gave them to me. I had to make the backing plate for the 4-jaw and have the material to make one for the 3-jaw but have never gotten to it...and probably never will. My engine stand came from the same school...also something they dumped.
  13. 2 points
    When I first moved to the Dakotas in the early 70's there were a lot of old cars setting in the trees and yards. Those days are long gone. When the scrap iron prices and old car values went through the roof those cars disappeared in a hurry. Old Dodge and Chevy pickups from the 30's, 40's and 50's were very common. No one wanted them as the Fords were the rage. Not anymore. Now it's hard to find an old pickup from the 70's or 80's. Times have really changed.
  14. 2 points
    "Let's start with your price Native" - Who are you quoting here? "Well, I don't know why I spent hours of my time digging mine out, photographing it, posting the photos, driving it 30 miles to the UPS place to get a shipping quote, etc, when these other two guys want you to get a much more common Super fender. Pete" I think you are misunderstanding. I don't think this was directed at you. My interpretation is that he felt that a couple people were encroaching on his potential sale. "If he didnt want to sell it, dont respond..." He obviously wanted to sell it; he made an effort to post several good pictures and an honest description. My advice: Don't pass on a good part if you are serious about it. Good luck!
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Yes, you were ranting and raving about it in the past and I didn't forget. That is a nice engine to power my lawn mower or a decent go kart.
  17. 1 point
    The video says that the 30-year owner (your father) and the subsequent owner didn't know its historical value, since the original "Boss Bronco" labels had been removed. In a way, that's good! Before I saw the video, I was concerned that whoever bought it from you knew its value and took advantage. Thankfully, the transaction was honest. Honesty in our hobby makes buying and selling more enjoyable for everyone.
  18. 1 point
    You only know it because I introduced it to you three years ago.............and it's not just ANY Sunbeam....it's the twin cam six 3 liter........
  19. 1 point
    Brass is Best usually includes a pic of the dish lighted in his post for his cars for sale. I love that feature. Check out his posts in the "Cars For Sale" section and you will see some great dashboards lighted.
  20. 1 point
    Mike, I'm glad you found somebody to finish the Humberette. It must not be easy to sell such kind of vehicle.
  21. 1 point
    Around here you need a title to GIVE a car to any junk/salvage yard, unless they are one of those “shady” outfits. OTOH, I’ve heard there aren’t (around here) many that take just any old/vintage cars (with title) for free, even if you deliver it to them on your dime. I have friends with a yard specializing in older ‘50s/‘60s cars, but they don’t want any, even for free, because it’s too costly to deal with all necessary bureaucracy involved.
  22. 1 point
    I admire your dedication to this problem child. I am assuming the check engine light isn't on and no error codes turn up? Daves89 recently had a strange issue with erratic operation due to a front brake dragging which placed an abnormal load on the engine which seemed to indicate an engine problem. Sometimes the seemingly unrelated can cause secondary symptoms. If you suspect a sensor acting up, try watching the readout in diagnostics while driving, especially when and where it is prone to having an issue. For instance, watch the MAF signal. I usually see 4-6grams/sec at warm idle and a relatively stable increase as engine speed and load increases. Similar for TPS, should be around .4v at warm idle and smooth increase as throttle is opened. This can be done with the key on and engine off just to make it easier. What does the ignition timing look like, stable at idle around 20deg at warm idle maybe increasing a couple degrees when dropped in gear? It is highly variable when underway so hard to make a suggestion on that. What do the fueling parameters look like, the Integrator and Block Learn? Target for both items is 128 and may go above or below that as it adjusts but shouldn't stay locked at a single reading, such as 150 or 128. How about O2 cross counts while driving and up to temperature. What is intake air temperature reading? Shouldn't be too far off of the outside air temperature displayed in the climate control, at least while underway, except one may be in *F and the other *C so convert. Do you get a knock signal or especially knock retard indication while driving? Essentially the ECM needs reasonable and logical data to calculate what to do. If the data is corrupt, maybe outside the expected range, but still within the system limits, it might not show a code, but will cause trouble. That's why we disconnect sensors to revert to open loop and base programming to see if it stabilizes or improves.
  23. 1 point
    Interesting Find. See my post under Buick General about the Jasper park cars. I only knew of the 4 model 49's made for Jasper park Lodge. This makes 5. Even in the production records apparently there are none, so I assume they were special orders. Seems odd as the 55 was fancier, but I have no other explanation. If Jaanika can find out any history on the car I am very interested. Was it possibly a park tour car originally? If it was there may be Jasper park lodge or Brewester Rocky mountain decals visible on the doors or between the doors. Yes they are 128" wheelbase 7 passenger tourings.
  24. 1 point
    I find it is the same for 1963 seatbelts. For that year, anything goes as long as it's functional and has the period correct anchor bolt. Red, green or blue generic mats near impossible. I stumbled upon generic red rubber and later, generic red carpeted mats years ago at liquidation stores. Not today. I remember embarking on a road trip with the family when the kids were young. Our ride at the time was a year old Gr. Cherokee (I think). While sipping her coffee, my wife would say "ah, still has the new car smell". I didn't want to spoil her experience by admitting it was actually the cheap off-shore mats I bought the weekend prior off-gassing inside our confined space! John B.
  25. 1 point
    Oh, and don't worry if you see the oil level drop some while driving. Like with your Ser. 11 oil level indicator, that's the oil being pumped and slung up in the engine base with higher rpms. Gauge is so sensitive you can watch it change slightly just by blipping the throttle. Paul
  26. 1 point
    For sale Original 12K miles 1986 Chrysler 5th Ave Edition All original mint automobile in and out -top and bottom and it's Ready for the Presentation AACA class.. Has All options / Color is Maroon and Silver/ with WW tires / wire wheel Caps/ electric seat.& windows /tilt wheel / cruse control / .Contact Bob @ phone 919 935 9119 North Carolina
  27. 1 point
    Just for the record its wet cold and windy here. Our winter. Theres about 3 or 4 cluster lights at the back of speedo on my 38, they come on thru head light switch, there is a dimmer switch bottom edge of dash. Could shine light down open air vent .Over and Out.
  28. 1 point
    Thanks guys. If I do paint at home, I will take every precaution and step. I have a good series of articles in my Chevrolet Club magazine that goes through the entire bodywork process in 16 volumes, thus far. It as a chapter just on protection. I'll have to weigh the cost of buying all the protective, cleaning, and lighting gear and the risk of doing a bad paint job vs the high cost of hiring someone else to do it and the transport involved. I still have a while to go on the body, it really needs a lot more work, so it will be at least another year before I think about painting. I think I got my tach drive situation "good enough." I was able to use the repro cable in the original cable housing, then I was able to drill out some chunks and filings of the stuck end of the original cable from the pinion housing. I got it to the point where it will fit in and spin properly with the new cable, although debating whether or not to keep drilling and mess around with it, which may risk ruining it. I will probably leave well enough alone, then fix it again or replace it if it breaks down the line. Cheers! -Chris
  29. 1 point
    Very nice job! I like the instructions that Cliff posted, "for the type of cement, ask a harness maker". Try finding one of those today, at one time there was one on every block.
  30. 1 point
    Received the nut in the mail today and tried it on the shaft of my neighbors Divine brand pedestal buffing machine. It went on fairly easy about half it’s thickness than it got too tight for just by hand. We used the spindle lock and the aluminum spanner wrench and turned it on some, removed it to find small brass milling, then put it back on repeating the process using the shaft threads and any burred edges to chase the threads. After about 5 on/off cycles on each side, it screws on perfectly just with bare fingers. I tried it on his other buffer (the one with the buffing wheel attached)and it fits perfectly. There is just a little burr where the thread starts on each side of the nut that a jewelers file will take care of. I would say to make the other two exactly the same size but no tighter in diameter and we will be fine. Your RH threading project is a complete success joe! Just the LH to test.
  31. 1 point
    I do as well on my 29 Hudson. This is a great thread by way. Your very lucky. Also , you must adjust your float height for modern fuels specific gravity is significantly less than fuel from when your carb was designed. Generally speaking ( not knowing your carb ) I raise the float height in all my cars almost an 1/8”.
  32. 1 point
    "The High Hand" with Douglas Gerrard, Johnnie Hermand (bellboy), and director William Desmond Taylor @ Wilshire Hotel
  33. 1 point
    I think they might have used carriage bolts. They were commonly used for purposes like that and I'm sure there are others here who have struggled getting them out when old and rusty.
  34. 1 point
    There is at least one crusty Model A wheel, transmission or engine in every old barn.
  35. 1 point
    JACK MULHALL AND HIS BRAND NEW AUTOMOBILE (IN FRONT KING KONG GATE) 8B4-059
  36. 1 point
    WELDON HEYBURN W FUTURISTIC CONCEPT CAR AUTOMOBILE FOR FILM SPEED 1270-23
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Cool, here's more fun in the park, a '31 Packard convertible Victoria with body by Rollston.
  40. 1 point
    Always remember if the title is not in your name you do not own the car. The paperwork is the absolute most important thing.
  41. 1 point
    Great writing, Matt.....and you’ve hit on why stock old cars are so much fun...they make life interesting, and even the troubles with them give us good stories....although I realize one of your stories is not as much fun...
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    hey mike - they probably would have used straight screw bolts, but it’s easier to fill in Phillips crosses than to try to halffill them to look like old screws. I’m lazy.😎 thanks, Ron
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Me and my two youngest went to Hampton to meet someone with the same car. Car looks and runs great. I think I talked with the gentleman for about an hour. At this point, it's all motivation to me. By the way...it is for sale. I will post in the buy/sale forum soon.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Fly over here in Dutchess County, NY......
  48. 1 point
    I've had to use the old "Pantyhose for a Fan Belt" trick to get a date home from an evening at the Jersey Shore. The '49 Pontiac convertible did just fine. It worked, and I offered to replace the item. Her mother was impressed, but her father was not amused, or was it the other way around?
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point