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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Well the weather has finally broke to a point where the sun is out and warming up some. We had 6" of snow for the 1st and 2nd day of the new year followed by rain every other day mixed with cold temps. When the weather was somewhat decent I had a ton of work to get done for the business. Since the weather was nicer today I decided to repaint the front rock guard. I had it painted and cleared a while back, but the clear ran bad and I wasn't happy how it came out. I resanded it and got it repainted and cleared and it looks nice like the fenders. Now I'm debating on if I should put the grill and headlight pieces on after I put the rock guard back on. I will be able to mask and cover those pieces when I get ready to do the cut and buff so they won't get damaged and dirty or be in the way.
  2. 1 point
    Well, I sold my 70 Skylark in October this past year. I kept saying I wasn't going to buy another car for a while, but sometimes they just fall into your lap. I am picking it up on Tuesday (possibly Monday if I can work the schedule). A bit of a long-winded story, but I'll try to keep it short. Lance and I went to go look at a 57 Roadmaster 75 coupe that is currently advertised on eBay. It is local to me, so we made a day out of the inspection. The coupe came from a wealthy collector in Southern CA that is having this dealer broker his cars. Apparently, he is selling anything that is not valued at $1 million or more. Oooook then. We were less than impressed with the coupe, so proceeded to small talk the dealer, and found out the owner has another 57 that he sent over in another building. He said "You don't want to see it, it's a turd and the transmission is out." We said, "we'd like to see it please." So 30 minutes later, a guy brought a key to the other building and opened the door. What we saw was this car in the photos. Yes, the transmission is not currently "working," but I am hopeful that it's a simple fix. Even if it's not, I'm not concerned. It does need an exhaust system, the current one is pretty rotted. It originally was all garnet red top and bottom, but sometime in its life it was painted its current combo. All (or most) of the chrome is original clean, no pits. Interior has been redone is mostly correct fabrics. Dash pad and upper door panels are not quite right, but I can handle that. Headliner has a white perforated material that isn't right either, but that's a pretty easy fix. It's just a clean car. Factory AC and wonderbar radio. Not a speck of rust to be found anywhere. I've been hounding the guy for 2 weeks to get a price from the seller, and he finally got back with me yesterday. Today, the deal is 99% done. I just have to sign some paperwork and pay him. We currently have snowmageddon 2019 happening, so I can't get back out there until Monday or Tuesday. If I could've picked it up today, I would have. Darn snow storm rolled in about 1pm today. I plan to have this in OKC this year. I have to thank Lance for allowing me to buy this ahead of him. We were both salivating at the prospect. I'll have to make sure I get his black 57 extra spiffy for him. This is the "turd" ...it's better in person. It still has all the grime on it from the trip East..
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  5. 1 point
    The TV auctions don't really interest me, and every high-priced result makes the public think antique cars are unaffordable to them. So many times, when I explain to casually interested friends that most antique cars are reasonably priced, they exclaim, "I had no idea!" I'd rather see a 1935 Hupmobile selling for $15,000, or a 1951 Nash selling for the same. They come closer to what our hobby is all about.
  6. 1 point
    True, it starts at 26:56 (funny that the episodes are mirrored! 😳🤔
  7. 1 point
    What do the numbers match?
  8. 1 point
    It's a decal. I've seen them before.
  9. 1 point
    4baer1, if your Dynaflow is shifting, something is wrong.. A Dynaflow does not shift. The only shift is if the driver moves the lever from D to L or the other way. You probably know this but others new to Dynaflow may not. Ben
  10. 1 point
    Wow, looking at this photo of four happy adults in that time period in Denmark...makes me think about what their lives may have been like in just a few short years. At the approximate time of this photo, Hitler was on his way to supreme power in nearby Germany, and shortly thereafter had Denmark in his sights. I cannot help but think of this, whenever I see photos of normal, happy life in Europe during the 1930's. May God rest so many millions of souls from that period in history...
  11. 1 point
    Ever since the operation I am not original any more. I came with a cord.
  12. 1 point
    From a judging standpoint,I would think that original would be just the way the unit left the factory floor. That being said,in some circles "field modifications" are allowed. I once had a '31 Chevy fire engine that faithfully served a small community until 1977. Driving an open cab truck flat out to a rural chimney fire in January was a less than pleasant experience, especially with no windshield. At some point early in it's service life,a windshield from a '28 Chevy truck was installed.This required the placement of the spotlight, originally mounted on the right side of the dash, to a bracket behind the fuel tank. It all looked quite proper,and it won numerous trophies at some rather prestigious meets. Cut up touring bodies were a common way to get new and extended life out of an obsolete vehicle, but I don't think that Duesenburg made into a flatbed hay hauler would be well received at Pebble Beach. When I restored my '21 Chevy, I could have restored it back to it's touring configuration,but the pickup conversion,done about 1925,was just too cute. Judging isn't everything.
  13. 1 point
    We got a little snow over the weekend...
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  16. 1 point
    More and more, cars make NO ECONOMIC SENSE, that said, why should they. I buy and drive what I like, to hell with the money/cost/out. While I don’t want to flush money down the drain, a well lived life for a car guy with gasoline in his veins means owning and driving interesting vehicles. Keeping it in perspective and within ones means is reasonable, but I have made and lost seven figures on cars in the aggregate, in the end, what does it matter. I have had more fun than any reasonable person could expect. And I’m still doing it. I plan to die broke, shrouds don’t have pockets. Ed PS- One can always make more money, no one can buy more time.......no matter how much you have. Drive you car.......your time is shorter than you realize.
  17. 1 point
    I was born in the French part of Switzerland. We had German the last 3 years at school but in the German part of the country, people are speaking Swiss German (sort of slang). With the school German, I understood nothing. When I began to work at GM in 1970, I had to bite the bullet and "improve" my German knowledge. I would say I'm understanding most of what is said, except what is spoken in some Swiss regions; their slang is just not understandable to me. I'm sure you have similar situation in England; not everybody is speaking the Oxford English! Due to my interest in US vehicles, I began to buy US magazines when I was 19-20 years old. I understood the pictures perfectly, that's was all! With the time, it improved; one decisive factor was when I went a long time ago for vacation in California: I was alone and had to make the effort to understand and speak. I still have difficulties to understand English speaking people over the phone, depending the region they are coming from. Fortunately, I understand almost everything in print!
  18. 1 point
    I love your '55 St. Regis. It has been converted to a 3-spd Torqueflight transmission? The indicator on the dash looks like the standard 2-spd Powerflight. Anyway, I am interested in this car. Jon jyinger1@gmail.com
  19. 1 point
    First step in assembling the front seat back was to clean, paint and inspect the seat frame and spring unit. The transverse spring wire that supports the individual zig-zag springs (essentially the lumbar support) was fractured and had to be replaced. This frame came from low-mileage car and was in excellent condition. The clean, shiny metal you see is as the frame appeared when the old trim cover was removed! It has been coated with a clear protectant to preserve it. Initial test fit of the trim cover and side panel to ensure that all the seams will be covered by the side panels as designed and sewn. I installed the 2 screws that will ultimately attach the ash tray to the seat back. Having the screw heads in place will make it much easier to locate the attaching points for the ash tray after the trim cover has been attached to the frame. Visible at the top of the above image is the first point of attachment of the seat cover. There is a wire-reinforced upper bolster that is attached via hog rings to the upper frame rail. The heavy felt isolator is installed between the two layers of springs in the seat back spring unit. The trim cover is drawn over the perimeter of the frame and retained with hog rings. After installing the cover and verifying the fit of the side panel, the upper bolster looks loose and baggy. The area beneath the french seam required additional padding to fill out the cover contours. I removed the cover and added thin layers of cotton/poly blend padding to better match the cover shape After re-installing the cover, fabricated stuffing tools like these make it easier to manipulate the last bits of padding into the necessary position under the corner: End view of the seat back after revising the corner padding. Front seat back, ready for assembly to the cushion: The 1958 Buick foam seat cushions were among the earliest applications of molded urethane foam seating components. The Special models retained the traditional spring and pad designs for the seat cushions and backs. The Century, Super, Roadmaster and Limited models were equipped with foam seat cushions, but retained "spring and pad" seat back pads with rubberized horsehair pads. I disassembled the seat frame and cleaned and painted the steel structure. Since the cushion frame had some surface corrosion, I used a more aggressive treatment and then painted the frame black. I inserted a stiff reinforcement layer of woven carpet material between the springs and the foam layer, hog-ringing the carpet to the zig-zag springs to ensure that the underlayment would not shift with occupant entry/egress. The carpet replaces the original layer of cotton burlap, which had long ago lost its ability to support the foam and isolate it from the springs. New foam is installed, along with a layer of non-woven cotton/poly felt to retain the rear edge of the foam to the frame. The felt also acts as an insulator/isolator between the rear section of the trim cover and the "bar cover", or rear bottom section of the frame. The foam is trimmed to shape and "skived" or contoured at the perimeter to give a smooth appearance of the cover after assembly. I have found that an electric carving knife works great for shaping and contouring the urethane foam. The pink chalk mark highlights the center of the frame and the center of the trim cover. I always start in the center and work outwards from the center to establish and maintain the proper cover position on the seat. Like the original design, I added a layer of padding and burlap above the foam, then applied the trim cover: The first step in retaining the cover was to hog ring the rear "tie-down" to the lower portion of the seat frame, just beneath where the forward edge of the seat back would eventually be positioned. Then, working out from the center, hog-ringing the perimeter of the cover to the frame. After building up the assembly, I determined that I needed additional padding to get the required comfort, fit and appearance. The cover was too loose on the pad assembly. I removed the cover from the frame and added a thin layer of padding over the entire seating surface, with additional layers around the perimeter to provide a more full looking perimeter. The second build-up was much improved Attaching the seat back to the cushion is accomplished with 6 - yes, 6! - 1/4-20 bolts. Adding the ash tray and robe cord to the seat back: It took 3 of us to maneuver the seat into the car, but we managed to position it without any injuries or damage: It will be challenging (impossible?) to install the seat side panels in the vehicle, but the side panels are still at the anodizer's facility. If necessary, the seat will be removed to allow installation of the aluminum trim panels.
  20. 1 point
    Minus the weight of the rolling frame and determining the correct front/rear weight distribution of the body........ Yes?........bob
  21. 1 point
    Things have been moving quickly as I prepare the car for its maiden show. It will be displayed at the Detroit Autorama on March 1-3. Early in December, I visited my friend Pat who has been working on the seat trim. He had completed most of the covers and we planned to install the covers onto the frame & spring units. He had researched the correct appearance for the covers. Images of interiors of several other cars showed that there was a lot of variation in the way the trim covers were sewn. For example, these seats look "overstuffed" and the french seams at the corners do not line up with the outboard stitch lines on the insert areas: This seat has better contours, without the overstuffed look, but the upper (red) panel goes straight across the seat, instead of curving downward at the outboard corners: Here is the 1/3 section of the rear seat back. The short , angled french seam aligns perfectly with the insert stitch line and the corner of the tan and beige joint. The upper edge of tan/beige joint is contoured to match the images in the 1958 Buick color and trim book and images of original interiors. This is the initial test fit of the 2/3 folding rear seat cushion. Shape looks good, corners and edges still need some finessing: Looking better! Here, I am beginning to assemble the 1/3 section of the rear seat back. A perimeter wrap of non-woven polyester will help retain the shape of the side facings. Together in the car for the first time. I'm not happy with it, so I will disassemble it and start over. But my granddaughter gave it her approval for comfort!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    The main purpose for an electric fuel pump on these cars is to refill the carburetor prior to starting the car after the fuel has evaporated out of the carburetor while the car is parked. While an oil presssure switch might sound like a good idea for safety, it defeats the primary use of the electric pump. If you want to be safe, use a relay activated by the ignition switch. I use my electric fuel pump routinely for a few seconds before a cold start after the car has been parked for a few days. Other than that, I have only used the electric fuel pump to prevent vapor lock in 90+ degree temperature driving on tours when I have had to use ethanol containing fuel. With non-ethanol fuel, the electric fuel pump is typically not needed except for refilling the carburetor after fuel evaporation while parked for multiple days.
  24. 1 point
    I was over to Joe's house today and the car is truly spectacular. It should be at OKC next year from what the current plan is.
  25. 1 point
    Friendship Day I have been pretty quiet lately, just working away at various cosmetic issues, getting my doors back together, etc. But today was my favorite old car event of the year in the Bay Area -- Friendship Day, a very informal, non-judged get together put on by the Mid Peninsula Old Time Auto Club. Here are a few pics and videos. L to R, Don Micheletti's 1918 Buick (by the way, on the cover of this month's BCA Bugle!), a '48 Super, and my '41 Super Jim Ceasri at the wheel of his magnificent 1919 Buick Speedster. Jim built this car himself, using a chassis and running gear from a car that had been converted to a farm truck! (Apparently, I have fun afoul of the new restrictions on posting photos, so I will try to continue with multiple posts.)