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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/30/2020 in Posts

  1. 13 points
    I've been busy on the '41 Buick and Melanie's Chrysler since those are our primary tour cars, but the Lincoln subcontractors have been progressing the background. I've got most of my parts back, including these parts for the ignition wires from the chrome shop. Is there anything prettier than fresh chrome? My friend Ed Chapla did a great job on all the details, including chroming the heads of the little screws that hold the clamps together--nice! I also have a batch of parts that should be coming back from powdercoating soon--the parts were there but unfinished when everything shut down, so now that they're back to work they're focusing on their big industrial jobs before my stuff. That's OK with me, there's no hurry just as long as nothing gets lost. Before After Now that the '41 Buick is running and driving properly, I guess it's time to get back to work on the Lincoln. The Lincoln 100th Anniversary show in August has been cancelled, and that was my goal, and obviously I've let that slip quite a bit. The work that still needs to be done is mostly unpleasant--cleaning the aluminum crankcase somehow (thinking wet sanding it, but paint isn't out of the question), polishing all the aluminum including the heads, and cleaning the frame rails that are covered in decades of gunk. But it's time to push forward so at the very least I'll have the winter to test and tweak and tune to get it ready for next year when I expect to be driving the hell out of it. Oh, and I bought a lightly used Gear Vendors overdrive unit from a friend of a friend, so we'll see if I can figure out how to fit it into the Lincoln's torque tube. More to come...
  2. 9 points
    Copied from a Jaguar Forum but it is the same for our Buicks too. This is supposed to be a fun hobby, not a source of frustration.
  3. 9 points
    We have a cruise-in at our shop every Friday evening and with great weather tonight (a little hot at 90 degrees) my friend Phil Tobin showed up with his 1941 Limited Model 91 6-passenger touring sedan. It was a rare opportunity to get the two of them together so of course I snapped some photos. People at the cruise were quick to spot the differences--mine with a divider window and jump seats, while Phil's is, well, a lot nicer (Doug Seybold restoration). Note that Phil's wheels are kind of odd--red outer rims but black centers. I don't think it's correct, but he insists that's how it was delivered. Well OK. I think it looks odd, and even though I'm a fan of red wheels I think the Limited should have black wheels--red is too flashy. Neat to see them both together and I was pleased to see how much attention both cars garnered from people who don't see stock pre-war cars all that often. Nice turn-out at the cruise tonight, too; maybe 70 cars or so. Everyone is happy to have someplace to go for a change, I think.
  4. 9 points
    May daughter has a friend that has been gifted with the art of drawing. His medium is wood and burning images to the wood. Much to my chagrin, may brain can not draw much of anything but a stick person. I appreciate his talent. For my 55th birthday my daughter asked he create a plague of my 54. He used a photo of my 54 taken last year at a show in Charles Town, WV where she won people's choice. The plaque is beautiful.
  5. 9 points
    Happy July 4th, 2020 A little early, but these came out so good. Wouldn't you really rather have a Buick?
  6. 8 points
    Try putting a 112 year old Buick together that was picked up in boxes and pieces swept up off the floor. All this is done without any service manuals. Here is where it is now. Everything that you see below has been completely taken apart, rebuilt and attached to the frame/ chassis.
  7. 8 points
    You weren't kidding when you said you took it easy going home....it took you 12 years!
  8. 8 points
    I had a case of the slows today but did finish the last drawer for the cabinet I'm making...I only have two corner clamps so I had to make them one at the time and wait for the glue to dry. I'm not a cabinet maker but it will serve it's purpose. three of these drawers are already full of micrometers. I've some pulls with a place for a label coming but for now I just put a screw in each one to pull it out. Then I took Mike and Gary's advice and knurled the end of the dip stick. It made a significant difference. Yesterday I noticed a minor leak and this morning I found another one. The first was on the banjo at the front of the engine, the second at the bracket at the rear of the engine. I drained the oil, flipped it over and re-soldered the front connection. When I looked at the other leak I realized I'd neglected to put the fiber washers in so that was an extremely easy fix. I filled it with oil...The only other issue was the hand pump, which didn't seem to be working at all. Then I realized that without being connected to the oil pump it was just sucking air when I worked it. I put my thumb over the hole as I withdrew the pump handle and promptly got a big puddle of oil on the floor...but at least it works properly. I finished this about 3 PM and it's about 5 now. In those two hours I can't see any sign of a leak anywhere but I'm leaving it overnight and will check in the morning. In fact, the brass stock for the acme nuts I'm making came in so I may leave this alone for a few days to make certain all the connections are good. None of the Banjo fittings leaked...not that I expected them to but it's still a relief to know they came out right.
  9. 8 points
    The first part I decided to try reproducing (over a week ago), is the missing drivers door garnish moulding. It's very different than any other Nash body styles, so I would never find a used one to buy. It's curved upwards to follow the top of the door, and it has a crowned profile. The original was made from very thin 21 Gauge steel, and I used a piece of house baseboard heating tin which was very close to 21 G. It already had one edge along the length with a very curved-soft radius 90 degree bend like I needed. First, I cut out the length and width, then bent the inside edge to a tight 90 bend on the 4 foot brake. Then I knew I had to shape the upward bend first, and used a Shrinker : Next, I needed to find a way to make the crowned up profile along the entire length. A Pro shop would use curved metal dies in a huge Pullmax hammering machine, but I went with oak from the woodpile which I shaped with angle grinders: next, I need to form the two ends to have a tight radius "return" as shown: So I made a small hammer-form die from 1/4" round aluminum, I bent it 90, and shaped the profile with a grinder. I will clamp it to each end, and hammer the metal around it: As you are starting to hammer the edge around/over that die, the top and bottom will get a fold rising up. You then hammer those folds back down, then keep hammering it back around the die until you have no folds showing. It takes many repetitions to make it happen. This is called "tuck shrinking", if you care to research that technique that was used by skilled metashapers back when mechanical shrinking equipment was yet to be invented. Lastly, I drilled the screw holes and countersunk them by hand punching: Guys, It takes me way more effort to make picture post updates compared to a few years ago. Maybe overtired or whatever, but I will try to show more of what I have been working on lately. P/S, that last Doodlebug seen in the backround, was waiting for the transporter truck as it had been sold. I also retired from customer work and now rent out indoor storage for vintage cars instead, (so I can spend time on my own stuff now).
  10. 8 points
    Thanks to all, I enjoyed most of my time on the BOD and as CFO. Of course its the people that ultimately counts. As far as getting well, I have no doubt that I will be a cancer survivor. I have a choice and my choice is always the positive choice. Prayers, good wishes, and positive thoughts are always welcome and appreciated.
  11. 8 points
    I took the '13 Buick out for a drive today and introduced him to his little brother that I just picked up in New Hampshire last weekend. It is a 1912 Model T. Had them both out driving around the neighborhood and area.
  12. 8 points
    Rob, here are a couple of tips which some newcomers ask about. You'll find some different opinions, but many, many will agree: ---Don't feel a need to convert from 6 volts to 12 volts. Doing so makes the electrical system more complex, since factory parts aren't there and old manuals are useless. Doing so will likely reduce your car's desirability if you sell. (This was discussed recently on a different thread.) ---Don't feel the need to convert from drum brakes to disk. The old systems were designed by experts, and when properly adjusted, they will work fine for normal driving needs.
  13. 7 points
    here is my car at a few different times. 1935 in hyde park new york, 1953 when it was pulled from a barn in dubois wyoming, february of 1966 when its being used by lincoln collector jack passey to haul a lebaron roadster, 1992 when it was really neglected and needed the engine rebuilt and a new top and now being used at auto camp
  14. 7 points
    While the "official" local cars and coffee was cancelled, just as last month, a fairly large contingent showed up anyway. I took my 1938 Century to the unofficial cars and coffee this morning.
  15. 7 points
  16. 6 points
    My father and I are getting his 1932 Buick Series 50 more road ready then its been in years. We are taking on the front end (very shaky up there!) as well as a pretty big leak out the rear of the transmission. He is the second owner, having bought it in the 1960s. its been on and off the road since then. I look forward to updating you all on this as we go. Below is a pic from around the time he first got it to a recent one of me behind the wheel.
  17. 6 points
    All: Success with frozen clutch ! Ran engine for about an hour and had wife’s hairdryer on high directed into clutch opening on top of transmission. Drove car for 50 yards pumping clutch and it released. Won’t forget to put boards in to depress clutch when I put away for Winter, again. Now for a drive to nowhere. Thanks, all Bill McL
  18. 6 points
    My 1955 Century with a friend's 1949 Super Sedanette.
  19. 6 points
    Took the Buick and Melanie's Chrysler to a 4th of July car show that a friend asked us to attend. No problem. Easy drive there in the morning on surface streets, 35-45 MPH. Car stayed nice and cool even though temperatures were already well into the '80s at 10 AM. Show was decent, although it was filled with mostly garden-variety stuff and a bunch of home-built hot rods. We stayed for about three hours but it just got too hot so we headed home with temperatures in the low '90s. Buick was fine, showing about 195 at long stop lights but 180-185 on the roll. That seems to be normal now. And now that I'm paying attention to the ride, I feel that the front end is VERY floaty. I wasn't paying much attention, but now that I am, it feels like the front of the car is bobbing up and down all the time. More [anecdotal] evidence that I probably need thicker oil in the front shocks. About half way home we ran into some construction and there was one of those steps in the pavement between the old surface and the new area where they're working--you know, one of those cliff faces about five inches high. Ka-BOOOM! I thought both front tires had exploded. A new significant thump under the car presented itself afterwards, so we hustled home and parked it. No visible damage to the wheels and tires, but man, that was a hard hit. Maybe I should be glad for these heavy truck tires. This afternoon I put the car up in the air and poked around underneath. Nothing visible damaged or loose. I found a few loose fasteners, like those holding the front fender speed ornament in place, but I doubt that's a source of such a big rattle. I used rubber hoses and wrapped the brake lines that run along the trailing arms to the rear brakes, as they seemed to be making one of the "small loose part" sounds. Still not the source of the loud thump that started with that big bump yesterday. Hmmm... Then I noticed a sliver of light in the right rear wheel well that I hadn't noticed before. Looking closely, I saw that the fender skirt's forward hook was just barely holding on to the fender. By shaking it a bit, I could cause it to make something akin to the booming sound I heard. It appears that a combination of the fender edge being a bit flexible and that massive bump allowed the bracket to work itself loose. I'm glad it didn't fall off while I was driving; it was just barely holding on by a thread. Things moved around enough at the fender skirt's forward bracket mounting point that it was just barely holding on. Here's how it should fit. The metal of the fender is in good condition, but obviously my rubber gravel guard is coming apart. While taking these photos, I noticed that the gravel guard doesn't even hug the contours of the fender very well, leading me to believe that it is for a Super or Roadmaster, whose fenders are much more rounded in this area. I've been aiming to replace them anyway, but a set of new gravel guards is more than $500. Ouch. I've been putting it off for obvious reasons. Anyway, I assumed that the fender skirt's bracket would be adjustable, but it was solidly riveted in place. I drilled out the rivets and re-positioned the bracket so that it would pull the fender skirt tight against the fender (you'll recall I installed new fender skirt gaskets last year). Interestingly enough, the bracket is slotted like it's supposed to be adjustable, but the holes in the skirt only line up one way, so there's no point to the slots and no real adjustment. Instead, I just tack-welded the bracket in place--as strong as the rivets, semi-permanent, but removable if I need to adjust it in the future. Once the welds cooled, I painted the area black and reinstalled the skirt. Voila! Tight fit that's far more secure than it was before. Before and after: I drilled out the rivets and relocated the bracket to hold the skirt tight to the fender. Cleaned the bracket and tack welded it in place. Ground the welds a bit and painted the area. Now the skirt fits tightly and is no longer in danger of falling off. You can see how the shape of the gravel guard isn't even close to the shape of the fender. I guess should spend the money to replace them. As long as I had the car up in the air, I removed the rear shocks and re-tested them on the vice. I believed one was a little limp but both seemed to be working properly. I topped them up with the ISO 100 oil, and the one I thought was weak took a little more, so that may have been the problem. Removing and installing the rear shocks is not a big job, although it does take a bit of muscle to shove the heavy shock into the frame and hold it in place while you line up and install a bolt from the outside. A bit of work, but all good. Tomorrow I plan to drain the front shocks and fill them with ISO 100 oil as well, hopefully improving ride and handling. Will report back when I have results...
  20. 6 points
    We've been struggling to get the brakes on my wife's '56 Chrysler wagon to work properly. Yes, there are two wheel cylinders per wheel, so a modern dual master cylinder will probably not move enough fluid to make them work properly. Unfortunately, most of the rebuilt master cylinders were junk--we went through four before the fifth worked properly. You MUST get a shop manual, these brakes aren't for rookies or amateurs, they don't work intuitively, and that's why your car isn't stopping properly. There's considerably more to it than just shoes and bleeding the brakes. The adjustment procedure is rather involved and getting the shoes oriented and centered properly is critical to making the brakes work properly. I have heard that the Chrysler brakes are the best of the '50s--I'm not all that impressed with the brakes on my wife's car but I also don't think we've got them quite right yet. There's a steep learning curve and a lot to learn that other braking systems wouldn't demand. It's been two years and we're still dialing it in. Get correct parts on there, then you can work on tweaking the system to work properly. Trying to make mismatched parts work on a system like this is a recipe for failure.
  21. 6 points
    We have had the Roadmaster out every day this holiday weekend. Just got back from driving to Providence to drop our daughter off at a friends. Had to stop on the way home for ice cream. Seems like that is the destination when we take a car out. Happy 4th!
  22. 6 points
    Drove the car for several days and today we put on about another 10 miles up to 45 mph. It has stayed at 22# pressure with no fluctuations. Could have been pressure relief valve sticking open from left over timing gear crumbs. I HOPE that is all it was!
  23. 6 points
  24. 6 points
    Good guess, but after a little Internet research, I'm pretty certain it's Evelyn Keyes. Check this out -- same outfit. She was in a Columbia western, The Desperadoes, in 1943.
  25. 6 points
    Working on an old collector car one can reach a point where you just lay your tools in hand on the floor and walk away. It could be hours, days, months, maybe never, before you walk back, pick up the tool, and find yourself right back where you left off. Always makes me remember when my Uncle Sylvester O'Brien started walking around saying "Meet me in St. Louis, Louie". Really bothered my aunt. I could relate. More than 40 years ago a friend stated "The level of perfection one is able to achieve is directly proportional to the number of times they are willing to do it over". It was a little less than 30 years ago I realized "being willing" was the key to the whole thing. Bernie
  26. 6 points
    Hi build primer applied a couple times and sanded 180 through 240 grit. Black primer on top of that with more block sanding after a week or two of curing. After the next block sanding, the body will be disassembled and mounted on rotisseries. Frame, body and each front fender. The front fenders are massive! Meanwhile, back on the Super Sedan...
  27. 6 points
    Seems to be valued purely on speculation and not on actual sales and output. Careful or they'll have you taking your dividends in bitcoin. I prefer to value something on actual products that could be sold not speculation of what hasn't been built yet.
  28. 6 points
    Regulating the dip stick... I turned the engine over and poured in 1 quart of oil. On the first quart I got a good measurement. When I added a quart it proved more difficult. the design of the dip stick - with a flat milled on it wasn't working well. I took a measurement with a wooden dowel and that worked but it was smaller than the hole it was passing through so I decided I needed a modification. I cut the flat milled portion off the dip stick planning to add an extension that is only 3/8" in diameter...the size of the dowel. To do this I had to turn the end down to 7/8" so it would fit in a collet and re-knurl it. Then it was drilled and the extension inserted and soldered in place. It was still hard to get a good measurement. The oil is too clean and barely showed against the brass. I ended up spraying it with flat black paint. That worked reasonably well and I assume that when I'm not trying to measure clean oil it won't be as much of a problem. At 3 quarts (the amount mentioned in the original owner's manual) the oil level was just below what I think is the front drain hole while it it just above the rear drain hole. I though it might be out of level but it turned out it was dead on so I suspect this is just another example of Mitchell-Lewis precision. I have no way of calculating how much oil will be held in the oil manifold and pump so I am guessing the nominal volume is 3 quarts but it might take a little more the first time it's filled. It doesn't show well here but you can see the drain hole in the upper fight corner in this picture as well as the level in the bottom of the sump. The dipstick finished. Because the sump is barrel shaped, the distance between the lines should get shorter with each quart - which they do. It isn't as precise as I'd like but it is a lot better than no way of measuring the level at all aside from those drain holes. because I'll use oil control rings (which weren't invented until the 20s) slightly over-oiling is not the problem it was in period. My guess is that it will take some experimenting to find out exactly what the optimum level is and if I have to I can always make another dipstick.
  29. 6 points
    Picked up the Limited from Tim Shaffer at the exhaust shop this morning and as pleased as I was with the first round of exhaust upgrades, I am just as pleased with these modifications. The car is nearly silent with the addition of that second little muffler at the back. The idle, which was already pretty muscular, has taken on a deeper baritone sound but is quieter, so it sounds wonderful. There's a video below but it's so quiet that you can barely hear the idle above the ambient noises. Nice! On the highway (of course I had to test it) the drone is COMPLETELY gone. You can't even hear anything but the wooshing wind anymore, and maybe a little bit of that noisy fan belt singing, but that seems to be getting better. The drone, which sounded like a bad wheel bearing rumbling along, has vanished. Very pleased with that. Tim also changed the pipe going over the axle so it won't be in danger of bottoming-out ever again. Beautiful work as always, and he only charged me $150. The guy is superbly talented and very reasonable. If you ever need exhaust work in Ohio, I can't recommend him highly enough. He's an artist of the highest order! Before and after of the over-axle pipe. Mini muffler installed. I think it's too shiny, but it isn't very visible unless you're under the car. I may paint it hi-temp satin black anyway. And as I pulled into the parking lot this morning coming back from Tim's shop, I found this waiting for me, fresh off the trailer: 1951 Buick Roadmaster 79R wagon. A real-deal one owner all original car with just 59,000 original miles. Totally untouched time capsule of a car and a desirable big series wagon. I mean, it still has its original T3 headlights! Starts and runs effortlessly and sounds like a sewing machine with those hydraulic lifters. So smooth! We're going to service it and then I'll get better acquainted with it. New arrivals are always exciting, but I've been expecting this car for a while so it was a very pleasant surprise to see it in my parking lot when I arrived this morning. Too cool!
  30. 6 points
    Only fix one broken thing a a time. You are very close to the point where it will only take 4 or 5 days to have it all torn apart and it may never be driven again. Just keep saying "component restoration" over and over. There are 300 $100 jobs to do everything on the easiest of cars. Restrain yourself and do 30 of them. That should get you a decent driver. And you can parse the rest out from there. Bernie
  31. 6 points
    It's been several weeks of trying to decide if I could, or even want to start up the Nash thread again. Last post of May 2017 dates back to when my Lyme Disease was starting to destroy my brain which then led to Dementia. Enough of that chapter of my life. 3 weeks ago, I actually started up, and drove the Nash out of long dormant storage, but still lacked any drive to get started.....and not even knowing where to start. I drove it out in the lot each day and just stared at it for quite a few days. Trying to recall the passion I once had for this oddball car. I finally decided to fix the non working exhaust system as it sounded like open race car headers. Got the head pipe fitting right, then took off the stupid exhaust cut-out valve to patch that hole in the head pipe, then made my own tailpipe from 1940s Mopar NORS tailpipes that a friend once gave me. Then I could hear how loose the valves were, set those, but now it's so quiet that I can hear a bad rod. My son talked me out of dropping the pan, and keeps saying to get the damn car in paint during good weather for dusty sanding, then do the engine in the winter, indoors. He's right, in that if it looks nice all painted up, then I will definitely want to finish it. Here is the car as of a week ago. I started the body work "prep" by making the missing driver side door garnish moulding and I took lots of pics, and now I am making one good rear trunk from the rusty black donor trunk in the pic, and using parts of it to fix the original deluxe trunk that has the drop down rear panel version for side-mounted spare tire cars. Pics of these projects on the next posts in another day or so.. One of many things I did to try to get interest again, was to read the entire thread twice in the last weeks, then I joined the Nash Club Online Membership, and also bought this ebay listed 1980s Car Show jacket pin that I once mentioned seeing years ago: Way back in this thread, I said I saw one of these pins and I guessed that it must be somebody's local car and not just a drawing. Well, I was right, because as a Nash Club Member, I can now look at old Club records as to what cars were once listed from previous members. This car is the only 1063 in the list, and because that Elks sponsored 1989 Car Show is only 32 minutes from the town of the then owner, ... I would then assume it must have also been shown at Hershey in the 1980s, (because the owner was in Lebanon, Pa which is very close to Hershey). I cannot find a picture of it yet, but this car listed in the club, proves that there is one more in the USA besides mine. I also previously posted a pic of the nice 1063 from Argentina, as well as talking about the rough one in Panama. So in 11 years, that's only 4 that I know of. One thing I did several years ago when I was concerned about my situation, I put every Nash part back into the car except the 7 new but older tires, and the 2nd trunk, and I wrote on the hood in chalk on where those items were stored...just so the next guy would have all of it if things didn't go well for me. I did go through all of those parts a week ago, and I have stuff that I forgot about and now can see that I don't really need anything that I can't make. That boosted my outlook a bit more. One last thing for today's post: Check the link below from "The Filling Station" website that was written right after Hershey 2018. Ten old well funded car guys from all over the USA including the owner of The Filling Station, came to my place right before heading to Hershey. The article shows pics just of 5 of my vehicles then, and I now only still have one of those 5...The Nash! The article says I am "slightly eccentric"...I was still showing signs of Manic from the Lyme, but I also had 10 guys separately wandering all over, in the buildings, outside, etc! They also miss-spelled my name LOL...so much for being famous I guess.. https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/hershey2018.html If not for the Manic (which in my case made me very excited about everything),..... that is how I met all these guys a year earlier as they were gathered at Dave's 33/34 Chevy Roadster resto shop right as they were leaving for 2017 Hershey. I was driving to a friends place and saw a stock 33 Chevy Roadster with it's top down, two older guys turning into a long driveway that leads to a bunch of car storage buildings that a friend once owned... My Manic allowed/mademe to follow the roadster and I saw it drive in a side bay,... so I simply walked right in like I owned the place! They all just stared, so I broke the ice-pick stares by saying I had a stock 34 GM convertible project. A year later Dave found my contact info I gave him that day, and called me to see if I would have the tribe over for a visit.
  32. 6 points
  33. 5 points
    Here's a link to a C/L ad for a '28 Coupe that's for sale in WI for $6900: https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/d/adell-1928-buick/7147348223.html
  34. 5 points
    Had a chance to run the '56 for a few hours today. And what a fine few hours it was. It was 90° when starting out. After a thorough warm up of 20 miles or so on a generally uphill trajectory I drove a fairly steep mountain road for this area. The road rises from 600 ft asl to 1400 asl within a 2.5 mile stretch. While on this section the engine temp climbed to the hot side and promptly cooled off on the downhill side. I did get too much pinging for comfort though. Anyway stopped for a few pics of which I like this one... Then cruised home around the lake. Just a nice 80 mile round trip. Then after dinner I was able to get the GS out for a 20 mile ride in the area. As before, the GS just loves to go!
  35. 5 points
    Even after all this time she's still smiling. Still at least August sometime and she sent me a new shirt. USS San Jacinto, part of task force with the Ike USS Eisenhower.
  36. 5 points
  37. 5 points
    Here is the first post of several, on trying to rebuild the original deluxe ''drop down panel'' style rear trunk by using the black standard donor trunk that only had a opening top. Above pic shows that many decades ago, a prior owner pop-riveted some thin galvanized folded-up metal band completely around the lower rotted edge of the Nash trunk. Yellow arrow shows that I already had cut off some of that banding to see if the part under the lower hinge was good to use. It was, and they sandblasted the trunk after, so I can tell the trunk is supposed to be the navy blue like the main body color is. I used a grinder to see where the trunk manufacturer might have made any seams. They spliced the lower hinged panel in an odd place, seen by the brass line below: I had to make my donor cuts further back. and close to the hinge, due to rot on the Nash trunk sides. It took forever to find equal places to measure from on both trunks to make sure both trunks were cut correctly. Not easy, as I am still worn out from the Jeep project, and trying to triple check everything I do now in very humid weather. above pic shows that I cut way forward on where I eventually would do the final splice, which I had not yet figured out. I might have cut there as I also needed to save the reinforcement pieces that get spotwelded all the way to the top on the deluxe drop lid trunk style. I removed those with a drill and blasted both sides before welding the braces to the black trunk sides. Here I am trying my hardest to get proper precise scribed lines to hopefully not screw up. I took way too long but I can't trust myself on some hot tired days. I had to make angled cuts only because there was a small rotted spot that I could eliminate with these cuts. Next 2 pics shows the Nash donor piece clamped to the 3 sides of the black trunk. I did not take pics of getting the dozens of broken seized pieces of the lower hinge halves. Lucky that the long hinge pin was broken at every joint 'tab' which allowed me room/access to free up each 1" piece, and remove them. Here are 2 pics showing the donor hinge panel on the open, and closed position before welding: Last 2 pics of this post taken today while working on the decorative aluminum strips to show the trunk opened up and closed Those strips will take a bigger pic post (soon), as well as showing the folding linkage I had to make to hold up the right side of the top lid, which I did not have. IT FITS 😱...thank goodness... Hope all you had a good Forth of July. Remember, "Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery, and Today is the only thing that matters. That's why it's called the Present." (meaning a gift)...speaking of which, I don't normally drink, but I celebrated finishing today with a 4 pack of wine coolers. ...and therefore it took longer to do this post 😵
  38. 5 points
    Checked the weather and it's 3 degrees cooler, but with more humidity. Decided to try again, making hay while the sun was shinning, life it short, I want to get this car completed. About the same conditions as yesterday in the shade, but a little more humidity, which is a good thing. Decided to change my primer mixture to a little less than 3:1 to eliminate the gravelly spray I got yesterday. This time, did the hood (Photo 1). Everything went quite well this time, did get a little bit of graveling at the very end, but not much. The primer is still congealing inside the gun and narrowing the aperture of the insides of the gun, causing the problem. I'm still guessing this is due to high heat, mostly, combined with the general thickness of the high build primer. I don't want to dilute it too much, but I'll have to be cognizant of this for when I spray the fenders, which require more material and time. Had a little extra primer in the canister and didn't want to waste any of this stuff, at $104/gallon. Had to beat the clock, as the primer inside the gun was building up inside the gun, so had to work fast. I adjusted the nozzles a little and got it so it was a fairly good coat, although the amount coming out was limited. I decided to knock out the gauge cluster (Photo 2). Was able to get it done just as the gun started spraying next to nothing and I was almost out of primer in the canister. I had to very quickly put the clean-up fluid in to try to keep the gun from clogging. Kept it running with the clean up fluid and was able to clean it up, but just barely made it. Both pieces turned out quite well, these will be easy to sand and make perfect, doors, hood, and trunk lid are very straight at this point. Next round will be the front valance and some touch up on one of the doors. After that, I'll start on the rear fenders. -Chris
  39. 5 points
    Mike, I have read your post several times and this news is still hard to hear. I have no words, I don't know what to say. I too hope the doctor is incorrect and you have plenty more years ahead of you. I will be praying for you and your family my friend.
  40. 5 points
    Ok, here's an example, the cluster and low/reverse gears for an 810-812 Cord. In '55 I decided the best way to protect them for eventual needs and to enjoy them in the mean time was to use them for a lamp base, painted gold. It turned out that gold was an appropriate color, that's what they practically are! Am I lucky, they still haven't been needed for replacement, yet. Not available, they will have to stay in my stash for that dreadful day.
  41. 5 points
  42. 5 points
    The ‘54 belonged to rock star photographer Bob Gruen. Not sure of the circumstances of it being used with this Blondie photo shoot but glad it did. The lady is second only to Marilyn Monroe and the Buick is second to none in my expert opinion on the subject of beauty 😁
  43. 5 points
    I took mine to a lawn equipment repair place and had them duplicated.
  44. 5 points
    Oh come on, Reo'. 'Fin' has come up with some real winners here. Most of us enjoy talking up these "finds". You have been around for a good long time and know how important we all are to each other. With that, I recommend you treat yourself to that '66 Cad Droptop that 'Fin' found for you. 😎, - Cadillac Carl
  45. 5 points
    Matt.....it can take endless amounts of time and money to get a car right......but once it's done, you never have to pound your head against the wall ever again. Then you have the "new" problem...........time goes by faster than you realize, and milage adds up......all of a sudden you realize its been five years and you haven't touched a thing except air in the tires........been there, done that. It's time to enjoy the car with your family.......
  46. 5 points
    Thanks for all the hard work you put out over the years keeping the books, even when many gave you a hard time for it. Now go kick cancers ass!!!!! We love ya bro!
  47. 5 points
    I have one, the knob is sun bleached on one side but the chrome is not pitted. Cost of shipping ($10 priority mail), and its yours. PM your address.
  48. 5 points
    Zealots, in this case "nature experts", are unable to think beyond their initial focus. This usually results in classic "unintended consequences" which often involves the opposite outcome from their initial intent. Zealots are often useful in alerting the rest of us to the existence of a particular problem; however, they rarely have a rational remedy. Just my opinion. Cheers, Grog
  49. 5 points
    I've had a several early 1950s cadillacs, including 2 1950s. Here are answers to your questions. 1. it overheats after about 15 mins but drives great. maybe a stuck thermostat or something? - take the radiator out & have it boiled out. Very simple. Just undo the upper & lower radiator hoses & it comes out with 6 bolts - 3 on each side. Should cost around $150. Don't take it to RadAir, find an old, dirty, inner city radiator shop that looks like it has numerous EPA violations. They do the best work. While that is out, take the threaded plugs out of the block on each side and flush the whole thing out with water. Don't be surprised if when you do this nothing comes out. You'll have to take a coat hanger or screw driver to unplug the crap in the holes. If you want to check the thermostat, it's under the water outlet on top of the waterpump. 4 bolts hold it on. You'll need to cut a new gasket when reinstalling it. 2. tranny shifts in all gears fine but shifts hard, - Several things at play here. It's a delicate balance of engine RPM, how heavy a foot you drive with, and the adjustment of the linkage from the carb down to the transmission. After you get the brakes fixed & it running cool, you can drive it around with a 7/16 wrench and stop periodically to adjust the linkage one way or the other to find the sweet spot. The shop manual talks about this. Buy one on e bay. They are plentiful and cheap. 3. brakes are manual drums and lock up easy. -they seem worse then normal. You can do a complete brake job on this car for under $500. New master cylinder, 3 new brake hoses and 4 new wheel cylinders. Just buy all new & do it. The brakes are very simple on this car. You probably have one or two sticking wheel cylinders from the car sitting and not being used. Properly set up, the brakes on your car are safe. 4. engine has a lifter tick The car probably just needs driving. Change the oil & put a can of Rislone in it. It may cure itself. 5. column shifter broke on me last night and now its stuck in drive. - no idea how to fix this... You're screwed. You broke the potmetal piece on the steering column. Its actually part of the steering column. You'll have to buy one from a parts car. To replace it you'll have to take the steering wheel off and then you'll have access to disassembling that part. It's not a quick job. You can shift the car by having someone sit in it with their foot on the brake (so the car doesn't move) while you open the hood and manually move the shift lever on the bottom of the steering column. Make sure the person sitting in the car has their foot firmly on the brake when you do this. ( I had this part break on a car I owned in college and I did this procedure myself using the emergency brake to hold the car. Not smart, but hey, I was 21). One other thing. How do you know it's overheating? Does it just stop running & won't start for an hour? it may not be vapor lock but instead crap in the gas tank floating around & plugging the pick up line. I had this happen on one of my Cadillacs. You may want to pull the gas tank andhave it boiled out as well. The inner city radiator shop may be able to do this for you too. Your car looks like a nice original. It's a 61 series sedan. Your serial number should start 61 19 and then a 5 digit number for the car #. 61 is the series and 19 designates sedan. You can drive this as an everyday car if you have the cooling & fuel systems functioning as new to deal with the heat & humidity you have down there. You may need an electric fuel pump just as a back up in case it vapor locks on you. You can buy 6 volt ones and there's plenty of room on the frame just in front of the gas tank to locate it. Get the kind the mechanical fuel pump can 'pull through." You won't need to run it all the time, just when it's real hot or you're sitting in stop & go traffic on a hot day. Good Luck!
  50. 5 points
    I've been struggling with the cabinet I designed to hold some of my small tooling. I guess I can confess to not being much of a cabinet maker...it's coming out ok but certainly isn't something fit for any place but the shop. While working on that - since I have to wait for glue to dry - I finished all the connections for the oiling system. With the main connection done, I put the hand priming pump on the stand... My system here is to make all the pieces and assemble them. When I'm sure its right I take them apart and put soldering flux on all the joints. They have to be soldered with everything tightened up. Essentially, I'm using the engine as a soldering jig. I flipped it over to do the last connection... Then flipped it back and did the other lines. The last task was to tighten all the connections and put some pugs in the drain holes. Tomorrow I'll probably buy 4 quarts of cheap oil and try to regulate the dip stick. I also noticed that on the test stand the pump had to raise the oil about 14" - which it did just fine. On the engine it will have to raise it less than 6" which probably means it will register oil pressure faster than it did when I was testing it and that wasn't anything to be concerned about. The hand priming pump may not really be needed...but we'll have to wait and see about that. It certainly can't hurt.