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  1. 29 points
    I have long said, only partly in jest, that the three basic food groups are beer, pizza, and ice cream. (My wife says chocolate is a fourth.) Today, having replaced the spark plug on my 1907 one-lung Cadillac and lubricated everything I could reach, I sallied forth in search of a pizza. My favorite pizza joint made me one – to go, of course. But while waiting for it, I noticed they were serving ice cream cones. I hadn’t had one for months, since the lockdown. I took my pizza home, had three slices with a good craft beer, froze the other slices, and drove the Cadillac back to the restaurant. I was served two scoops in a waffle cone, which I ate sitting behind the wheel of the Cadillac on a brilliantly sunny spring day. Trifecta! Then I drove the Cadillac about 15 more miles, including a gravel road through a federal wildlife preserve. The toilets were closed, but the trees weren’t. The hikers and dog-walkers loved the car. And, since the ice cream was mint chocolate chip, my wife’s food group was included, too! Gil Fitzhugh the Elder, Morristown, NJ
  2. 21 points
    I hate the Packers but in the words of Aaron Rodgers, R-E-L-A-X it has been restored! Now do you guys love me and Peter! 😁 Greg, you can take the bullets out of the chamber now....
  3. 19 points
    Sadly, this is simply another manifestation of Americans' obsession with cheapness, always confusing a low price with a good value. It is probably the single biggest problem facing us as a society, and it is sending us down a spiral from which we may not recover. When I tell a guy it'll cost him $1800 to move the car from my shop to his home in California, he loses his mind, calls me a crook, finds a broker on the internet who will do it for $600 on an open transporter in the middle of February, and then calls me to say, "Do you always send your cars out looking like this? It's going to cost me $1500 just to get it clean again!" Americans, sadly, just aren't able to understand that you get what you pay for. They just want to pay less... for everything. Clothes, cars, taxes, transportation, whatever. And then they wonder why everything around them is shit.
  4. 18 points
    Terry you are correct! The trailer and car inside have been located and returned. It was locate and picked up yesterday afternoon. By the time i got back some and got settled i was/am beat. I appreciate everyone's assistance in sharing and keeping an eye out for this. Thank you all!
  5. 18 points
    Most of you, I'll assume, have been on a car tour with your antique or Classic car. If it went well, you had a great leader who did everything right. Sadly, I'm finding that it's increasingly rare to succeed like that so I thought I'd offer some tips for those of you who might be considering organizing a day tour or weekend outing for old cars. Over the past three weeks, we've done three day tours, which were really rolling car shows. Meet up somewhere, drive in formation to a few hospitals and retirement homes, honk and wave, go home. But all three were frustrating simply because the organizers overlooked the basics or didn't take some factors into account or just didn't manage it correctly. These tips aren't aimed specifically at them, but they are a result of seeing problems in action while we were trying to participate. 1. Drive a reasonable speed. If you're in a modern(ish) car, remember there might be older cars that can't go 75 MPH on the highway. This is not really a problem in my experience. The actual problem is going WAY too slow. That may seem like a non-issue, but on all three of these outings, the tour leader at the head of the line went so slow in an attempt to keep the whole group together that it caused all kinds of new problems. At one point we were on a two-lane country road with a posted 50 MPH speed limit and my speedometer showed 11 MPH (remember, my car reads 6 MPH slow). I put my car in 1st gear and let it idle and I still had to ride the brakes. Meanwhile, traffic is backing up behind us with people trying to go about their daily lives. We motored along that way for maybe 15 minutes. Not cool. This is probably a flat-out awesome way to make the general public hate old cars and think they're slow death traps that can't be used in the modern world. There's also the problem of cooling, brakes, and clutches at that speed. Two older cars, a Model A and a 1935 Ford, dropped out before the second stop today due to the insanely low speeds and stop-start that resulted, wreaking havoc on their cooling systems. Riley took these photos from near the back of the line of one of the tours. He was in the back of Melanie's Chrysler wagon, which has pretty modern performance. She was incredibly frazzled by the time we reached the first stop. Going slow can be scary, too. Photo taken on a 50 MPH road. Actual speed, under 20 MPH. The '32 Buick is second from last in line. Note the traffic backing up in the distance. NONE of them were happy to see old cars on the road that day. The Buick was the oldest car on the tour and can cruise at 50 MPH without issues. There's just no need to drive at parade speeds. Creeping through the hills at 20 MPH. No momentum to get up the hill, and downright terrifying on the way down because the tour leader was riding his brakes to keep everyone together at 20 MPH. Cars bunched up, brakes got hot, and it was scary as well as frustrating. We have to remember that people will think old cars are cool until we start to screw up their day. Just go the speed limit, more or less, and count on everyone else to keep up. There aren't many old cars on these outings that can't comfortably run at 35-40 MPH. Go an appropriate speed and let the slower cars manage themselves--they're used to it anyway. And if you're really concerned about people getting lost, give us addresses for each stop so if we do get separated we can punch it into our phones and at least get there to rejoin. Also, it probably goes without saying that the tour leader should not stop to let everyone catch up right in the middle of a road, which happened several times today. Trust the people in the other cars to be able to figure it out, unless you've completely failed at rule #2... 2. Make good directions. If you are familiar with the area, pretend that you're not because there might be tricky areas that you don't spot simply because you're familiar with them. If you're downloading instructions from the internet, say on Google Maps, drive the route a few times to be sure it's navigable by old cars. Lots of highway driving, congested areas, or construction zones are no-nos. Again, this seems obvious but last week's tour required about 10 miles of high-speed highway driving with traffic, and that was a problem for, say, the 1912 Cadillac that was with us. Just because your "collector car" is a 1987 Lincoln, don't assume everyone has that much performance on tap. Also, try to add landmarks to your directions. Mileage indications are useful, but odometers can be inconsistent, so add landmarks both to warn people that a turn is coming as well as along the way when nothing is happening so that people can verify that they are on the right path. One of our instructions today, for instance, was, "Follow the curves and when the road goes straight, turn left." Um, what? They were trying to say that there was a left turn branching off the main road, which was kind of making a right turn, but it was confusing as hell and a lot of cars shot right past. How about a street name at least? Landmarks, street names, and other indicators can be extremely useful. When Melanie and I make a tour, we often take photos of large landmarks and include them in the directions so people know what to look for. 3. Be aware of your surroundings and react. For a while last week, I was second in line following the tour leader, who was in a modern car (PT Cruiser convertible LOL). There was a long downhill run and he simply rode his brakes all the way down at about 20 MPH. I suppose modern brakes can handle that. On the other hand, those of us in the 5200-pound limousine with 80-year-old brakes were white-knuckling it all the way down the hill terrified that we were either going to plow into the car ahead of us or the brakes were going to catch on fire, even with the transmission howling in 2nd gear. Again, PLEASE take into account the capabilities of the cars around you and drive appropriately. The PT Cruiser could have scooted ahead to give the old cars behind him some room without losing the group at the bottom of the hill. He owns several old cars, including a Pierce-Arrow, so he knows all about old car brakes. THINK! 4. If you need photos of the event, please appoint someone else to do it. The tour leader today stopped every time we were about to turn into a retirement home driveway, waved everyone AROUND his car, and took photos of the line of cars as they maneuvered around him. Meanwhile, radiators are getting steamy, we often had to pull into oncoming traffic to go around his car, local traffic is being blocked, and, well, it's just a mistake to stop like that. Have someone zoom ahead to each stop and take the photos instead. 5. When you have the chance to merge into traffic, TAKE IT. Last week we sat for about 15 minutes at a right turn because the tour leader was waiting for a large enough opening in traffic for ALL the cars to make the turn. Not going to happen. JUST GO. We'll catch up and hopefully traffic will see what's going on and not make too much congestion. If you did rule #2 well, everyone will eventually catch up. 6. If you've got some horsepower, don't be afraid to use it. I don't mean do something stupid like spin the tires, but there was an old guy today in a 1970 Oldsmobile 442, and he drove that thing like it had 20 horsepower. He slept through the first 10 seconds of every green light and accelerated slower than someone in an electric wheelchair. Meanwhile, everyone behind him has now missed the light or the turn and clutches are getting torn up. Yes, there are probably some slow cars on the tour, but if you can scoot along at normal traffic speeds and get out of the way, it'll help everyone keep up and make a smoother drive. Just keep moving with the flow. Creeping along because you think you need to go as slow as the slowest car isn't helping and can make for dangerous situations. The slow guys can handle themselves, I promise. And this last suggestion is for everyone on the drive, organizers and participants alike: PLEASE PAY ATTENTION. Don't just fall asleep and follow the car in front of you like a zombie. At one stop today there was a circular driveway around the courtyard of a rest home. We circled it and then were supposed to exit to the right. Well, at one point, a car died in the circle and by the time he got it going again, the line ahead of him had already pulled out of sight. He saw old cars pulling in, and just followed them to the left, back into the circle. And then the guy behind him followed him. Pretty soon we were locked in an ouroboros of idiots in automobiles where nobody could move because it was totally gridlocked. Come on, guys! You're grown men smart enough to make enough money to buy an old car. Surely you can figure this simple stuff out. I just couldn't believe my eyes as I watched them stupidly continue to pile into the lane and jam us all in place. Two cars had to drive across the grass to break the gridlock and open the path again. It was soooo stupid. This isn't hard, I guess, but if you're inexperienced maybe this will be helpful. If you're an experienced tour participant, maybe help where you can. Melanie sometimes gets out to direct traffic when people get mentally mushy and I occasionally will block an intersection with the giant car to clear a clog. All it really takes is a little bit of extra thought to make everything smooth and easy.
  6. 17 points
    I mentioned my daughter Sarah on the USS San Jacinto. They passed a milestone on April 27 of 100 days a sea without touching land. No port calls because of Covid-19. No end in sight now maybe June or July. She's still smiling and has some of the care packages left I sent.
  7. 16 points
    Hi All, A few days ago, I became the owner of a 1936 Chrysler Airstream convertible that was being stored since 1971 in an old downtown building near where I live. The gentlemen storing it has approximately 90 vehicles stored in various downtown buildings he owns. Walking through these old buildings and seeing all of these cars that have been stored (some since 1950) is amazing. I have known the 92 year old gentlemen who owns the buildings for about six years, and he is a close friend. I have told him that if he ever wanted to sell the Chrysler, I wanted to purchase it for whatever price he wants, no negotiation.. Two weeks ago he had a health scare that landed him in the hospital for a few days. When he got out of the hospital, he called me and asked me to to meet him at his office (he still works every day). I thought it was odd when he asked me to tell him when I was 30 minutes away so his wife could meet us there. I get to his office and sit down. His two secretaries and his wife gather around and he picks up this large envelope and hands it to me. Choking up a bit, he says here... you are the only person in the world I want to have this car. He told me I could pay whatever I thought it was worth. The car is unrestored except for having been painted once over 50 years ago. The upholstery was done at the same time. There is no rust, and I have all the ownership documents since it was first purchased. The only thing I can find missing thus far is one hubcap, the sun visors, and the ash tray cover and knob. I am attaching some images.
  8. 16 points
    Coming soon - Never forget.
  9. 16 points
    It's been just about a month now since I entered the world of pre-war buicks with my 41 and I just wanted to let all of you know how greatful and pleased I am with all of you on this forum. Every day there is something I need to know about, how to locate, or need a discription on something and sometimes within minutes of my post, you guys come through. I worked for Chevrolet for nearly 30 years but never on a pre war car, so there are times my questions may sound very stupid to you guys, yet you never ignore, laugh or belittle. You all just come through every time! I can't tell you how refreshing it is to be on a forum of this caliber. Again, I just want to say "Thank You" to all of you and let you know how greatful this newbe is. All the best to all of you and hope some day we can meet in person. Ed
  10. 15 points
    Hope this helps. 13 years
  11. 14 points
    76 years ago today, June 6th, The Allies landed. It was an amazing feat and many manufacturing facilities were converted to the production of equipment and supplies in relatively short order to help win the war. To all who serve, and who have served, I salute thee. Thank you for your service. Last year, an old friend past on that served under General Patton. He was in the crowd when Patton gave his famous speech. I don't want you to die for your country, I want the other SOB to die for his. He told his story of his part in the war until his dyeing day. This post is in Memory of Richard Boswell. Patton's 5th Army. Tank Division. He was wounded during his service and carried shrapnel and the scars of battle for nearly 3/4ths of a century. Dick was an avid International Harvester Collector. Most of his collection was Farmall Cub, and I.H.C. Cub Cadet tractors and I was glad to be able to call him a friend.
  12. 14 points
    Installed the new timing gear. Installed the re-re-built water pump with new seals in the output side. New bushing and packing on the input side. Patrick Reeve of Reeve Enterprises who rebuilt the engine re-did the pump bushings wanted to put the doubled up lip seals on that side also. But when the (expensive recommended) seals I had installed failed, the stainless spring wore a groove in the shaft at that area. So that side has traditional packing.WE wanted to save that SS shaft I made. After doing the static timing the engine fired right up and ran well. I let it run for about 20 seconds then shut down. Yesterday (May 31st) son Alex helped me put the radiator and hood back on and fill the cooling system. I took her for a drive several times around the block about 2 miles. Still need to tweak the timing and carb etc. After I shut her down I tried to restart …. Oh, crap!! The starter is binding and not motoring! At least this time I knew what the problem was. Previously I had set the coupler to the S/G too tight and had the same problem. I had used the exact same pin locations on the shaft of the pump I rebuilt. (Not original to the car). Finding out later that these were fitted IN ASSEMBLY. After surface grinding .020 off the face of the "Oldham" coupling plate and reinstalling all was fine. The same pump and shaft was reinstalled so what changed??? I made a new gasket for the front bearing to the pump shaft gear crankcase bore surface. Mistake... This time I used 1/32' sheet stock instead of the 1/64". So, effectively moving the shaft back .015 and causing binding at the coupling plate. I had to remove the taper pin at the retaining collar, undo the three bolts holding the bearing to the crankcase, slid the bearing back on the shaft. I then replaced that too thick gasket with the proper 1/64" thickness. Reassembled all and now the starter is functioning properly. In the above photo I also did another adjustment. There is a hose stand off. Originally missing from this car. I took the one from my spare 25 engine. Great! another found missing piece. Pat Reeve and I were concerned about the 1925 style pumps that since they "Float" (No solid attachment to the engine) that there may be too much lateral pressure on the pump unit. This time I was very careful when re-mounting the pump. Not much give with the short hoses. With the upper output hose attached the lower input hose stand off was 1/8" off. To force the short hose on could cause twisting of the pump on the shaft causing binding and hot spots running on the bearing. I added (2) 1/16" gaskets to the stand off mount. The input hose now slid on with no apparent twisting or tension on the pump. Keeping fingers crossed again. Little things do mean a lot.
  13. 14 points
    By definition, women can't be hung. The can, however, be hanged. /sorry
  14. 13 points
    I am a big fan of Evapo-Rust and using it as coolant for a few weeks is a great way to clean out areas of your block that you can't reach any other way. I devised a pump system that would circulate Evapo-Rust through an engine block 24/7 for a week or two and it really cleans things out. If you are using it as coolant, it works fine and has about the same viscosity as water so you won't have any issues there. It seems to transfer heat about as well as water, too. I would recommend some kind of filter in your upper radiator hose(s) to catch any debris that comes loose. I use a pantyhose foot (what I call the Grimy Filter named in honor of fellow board contributor Grimy) in the upper hose and it really does catch quite a bit of junk. Remember that Evapo-Rust only works on iron, so it won't clean corrosion in an aluminum or brass radiator, just iron rust. I don't dilute it and it is not designed to be diluted. SOme cooling systems are smaller than others--my '41 Buick takes 5 gallons and my '35 Lincoln takes 8, so ti can be expensive. But regardless of cost, I have not found anything that works better and is safer. You can even pour it down the drain when you're done, so it's very inert. Here's my pump system at work on my Lincoln's V12. I just hooked it up and let it run for a few weeks. A heater in the bucket kept the solution at about 160 degrees which seemed to boost effectiveness. Using clear tubing allowed me to see it working. I would consider temporarily using this instead of a black rubber upper radiator hose so you can monitor the progress. Here's the inside of my Lincoln's block before and after: Here's some of the debris that the pantyhose filter caught in my '41 Buick after running Evapo-Rust for a few weeks as coolant:
  15. 13 points
    Ok folks, I realize there is a lot of emotion attached to the decision for all of you. Seriously, do you not think the same for all the members of the Hershey Region? For AACA National? It is gut wrenching but very, very few of you have any idea of what goes into putting on Hershey. Contracts have to be signed that amount to a massive amount of money. They had to be signed now. Materials had to be ordered, merchandise, etc. Massive changes to the flea market and corral related to how HE&R and the region handled the COVID response needed to take place. Further fencing in the entire event was a very distinct possibility which was in the 6 figures. But to top it all, here is what the Governor said just the other day once we are in the Green Phase!!! Any gathering for a planned or spontaneous event of greater than 250 individuals is prohibited. This includes, but is not limited to, a concert, festival, fair, conference, sporting event, movie showing, or theater performance. We do not expect people to agree with the decision, no one is happy. This amounts to a huge economic blow to our community, the region and national. This is a huge disappointment to our members but the decision was NOT made lightly. Ron, I pray Carlisle gets to open up! They own their facility and have far more flexibility than AACA has and yes I have been in communication with him. However, as of today Carlisle or Mecum do not have approval by the state to my knowledge. As to the potential car show, that event is far more simple, we have a COVID plan that we can manage BUT without the Governor's approval it will not happen. In retrospect the press release could have been written better, however, it escaped a lot of people who were rushing to get it out due to all the rumors. The possibility of the car show was a last minute idea that got approvals yesterday morning by everyone and was added to the release. Folks, seriously...you have no idea how much effort has been put into this subject, how much angst those who work their butts off every year for you and I have had to deal with and how horrible it was to make this decision but when you are on the front lines you understand much better! I could say a lot more but everyone will in the end feel the way they feel. I just feel bad for the Region as they honestly did all they could at this time to try and save the meet. Trust me they are hurting as much as anyone and do NOT deserve criticism. My opinion.
  16. 13 points
    PLEASE FOLKS, IT IS NOT COMPLETELY CANCELED!!! WE HOPE TO HAVE THE CAR SHOW ON SATURDAY. YOU MIGHT SAY WE ARE BEING FORCED TO GO TO OUR ROOTS AS THE MEET STARTED AS A CAR SHOW WITH NO FLEA MARKET VENDORS. WE ARE SORT OF TRAVELING BACK IN TIME....SADLY, VERY SADLY BUT WE ARE TRYING TO MAKE THE BEST OF IT.
  17. 12 points
    In the 1990s, I got a tip about a Studebaker in a almond orchard in Northern California. It turned out to be a basket case 1929 Studebaker GE Dictator rumble seat cabriolet. A very rare model Studebaker. My brother bought the car with the intention of restoring it. Before he could get started a friend of ours, who was between projects, found out about the car and talked my brother into selling it to him. Our friend did a full frame up restoration on the car. He did not have to take it apart because the entire car was in pieces, rusted out, and wood framing long gone. When it was pulled from the almond orchard it took several pickup truck loads to haul all the pieces to my brothers place and then move it again to our friends house. Our friend still has the Studebaker and it is as beautiful today as when he completed the restoration. Here are pictures as found and after restoration.
  18. 12 points
    So you're saying that yes, the numbers appear to be cooked, but as long as they're doing it for a reason you agree with, it's OK? For the record, I'm more than unhappy about the economics of the situation. I continue to worry just like everyone else, because my business could take a dump at any moment--I legitimately thought I was going under in March. I took out a large bank loan and a huge second mortgage on my house so I could continue to pay my employees. I applied for one of those payroll loans, but sadly our bank decided to file the applications for the big companies first, and guys like me, well, ours got filed sometime later. So right now we're surviving on about 45% of our usual sales volume and a pair of giant loans that has almost doubled my monthly overhead. I can't run like this for long. But I am also proud of the fact that I have not yet had to lay anyone off, because I care about my guys and if I lose them, I won't have them when I need them most should things improve in the future. For now, I consider myself surviving only because of luck and good credit, not smarts or because of anything I'm doing. I feel the anxiety that everyone else feels because I'm not wealthy enough to weather this storm if it destroys my house, literally and figuratively. I don't have wealthy parents or a big trust fund or a steady paycheck to keep me afloat. I've burned it all to the ground and am simply hoping something grows there later. Nevertheless, I think asking people to die so I can make money is not what I want on my gravestone. I would let my business collapse before I would agree that it was OK for someone to die for a chance to save it. Not sure how someone can consider me a fool for believing that people matter more than the economy.
  19. 12 points
    I'm not sure I understand what you mean. The car isn't restored and as I mentioned, it probably looks better in photos than it is. The paint is unquestionably original, as is the interior. It has been maintained but never disassembled or restored. I, too, object to modern hose clamps, but that's a pretty minor thing to change if that's what you need. However, this car's point judging days are over (if it ever had any). These two photos show a little bit more of the paint on the sidemount covers, which is where it has aged most, and you can see some minor checking on the tops of the fenders in the photos of the engine compartment, above. It has been my experience that unrestored cars typically run and drive better than restored cars, with the trade-off being cosmetic imperfections that wouldn't be tolerated on a restored car. I find values to be comparable between the two; a quality survivor can command restored car prices, likely for that reason. The buyers are different. Most guys want shiny and cosmetic perfection and don't really care how the car drives (or simply don't know any better). Guys like me, who love original cars, prefer to put the cars on the road and the feeling of a car that has never been disassembled is hard to quantify, but very few restoration shops can put a car back into condition to match the factory's work. Most can do shiny, but in terms of how the machine operates, that's a bit more esoteric and few restorers achieve it (often because the owner isn't willing to pay for it). Anyway, I hope that answers your question. If not, and you're simply wondering why the car is priced the way it is, well, I guess it's not the right car for you. Someone else will see the value and continue to enjoy it as the previous two owners have over the past 68 years. Sometimes quality is measured in ways other than simply perfection.
  20. 11 points
    I almost always recommend staying with the original electrical system in a car. Now that's not due to my purist point of view, because I agree that driving is the point and whatever gets you on the road is OK with me. I say it simply because few 12-volt conversions actually make sense. Most guys assume that 6-volt systems are inferior and there's a persistent myth that old cars were always hard to start and that changed when 12-volt systems were introduced. Not true, but I bet if you ask 10 guys at any local cruise night about 6-volt electrical systems, you will get 10 guys telling you that they're crap. So part one of the problem is this myth that 6 volts doesn't work. That's BS, but persistent myths in this hobby are not a new thing. Now that I've had, oh, 3500 cars pass through my hands, I have come to realize that trying to out-smart the factory engineers is a dicey proposition. At best you get something that works, but it is merely one guy's idea of how it should work. If it works, that's fine. But if it doesn't work or needs replacement parts, it can be extremely difficult to diagnose the problem and figure out what parts that one guy in his home garage used to do his work. Repairs become significantly more difficult at that point because the factory shop manual, with its detailed diagnostic procedures, is completely worthless. Now you've got to figure it out for yourself without the assistance of the really smart guys who built the thing in the first place. You're pretty much stuck with us yahoos on the internet shooting darts in the dark. I know I've mentioned the 1946 Mercury convertible I had where the previous owner had converted it to 12 volts. It worked fine except the entire car was wired using red 12-gauge wire. EVERYTHING. Should something go wrong with that car, how the heck do you fix it? It worked, but it was a recipe for nightmares for future owners and had a significant impact on the car's marketability and value. Nobody wanted to touch that thing, even though it was ostensibly operational. The conversion can be done without a lot of difficulty, but it's never as easy as it seems and it never really solves any problems without adding a bunch of new ones. Everything electrical in the car will stop working and will need to be altered somehow. Most guys don't bother making the original gauges work and just slap some Summit Racing gauges under the dash and call it done. They figure they only drive in the summer so they don't need the heater or defroster fans to work. Clocks never work anyway, so they skip that, too. They wire up a modern stereo system in the glove box and cut holes in the doors or side panels for speakers or remove the original radio and chop up the dash to make a new one fit. I guess that's all fine and dandy for a car you're going to just drive, but it always screams amateur workmanship and laziness and ultimately the car probably doesn't drive any differently. And the next guy is going to look at your workmanship and strt discounting the car immediately. What most folks don't seem to realize is that most of the problems people have with 6-volt electrical systems can be fixed with cheap, easy repairs: good battery cables, clean grounds, strong battery, rebuilt starter, healthy ignition components. I find that more often than not, a 12-volt conversion is used as a band-aid for sub-standard electrical components throughout the car and the guy doing the work figures it's junk rather than solving the actual problem. There's that myth again. So while I'm not necessarily a purist, I am practical. I am of the opinion that making the original equipment work properly is not only better for values, but also for serviceability and functionality, and simple repairs will typically cost less than a 12-volt "conversion." You can change and upgrade and alter all the parts that need to be changed and upgraded for 12 volts, or you can simply use what's already there and save time and money without taking any steps backwards in terms of service or functionality.
  21. 11 points
    My 1947 Buick Roadmaster Convertible. Took 7-8 years. Still tinkering with Little things. Matt
  22. 11 points
    So I am now the proud owner of a 1969 Riviera I just bought out of Georgia. Car has been restored/rebuilt front to rear bumper, mechanical, body work and paint, complete new interior. Chrome rally wheels to be added, complete console with shifter to be installed, console tilt column also to be installed to make it factory special with options. Color is Twilight Blue Poly which is a medium blue metallic which sparkles and the interior is the lighter blue. Looking forward to adding a few options and enjoying the Riv. Coil springs were replaced but look too high to me so I may replace them again with correct ones. In reviewing the restoration receipts the springs may have been 'extra heavy duty' Working with Spring Specialists to sort it out. Now have 4 of the right #853 wheels so I am considering having them re-chromed. Full factory console and correct console tilt steering column are on their way to me. Fun and games this summer. Chuck
  23. 11 points
    I finally got the new radiator in the '13 yesterday and Joyce and I took it out for about a 50 mile drive. Beautiful day in the 70 deg F sunshine.
  24. 11 points
    I am as unhappy as any of you about losing Hershey--I do a lot of business there, too. I had the same knee-jerk reaction last night and wanted to be angry at someone. Nevertheless, let's keep things in perspective, eh? 105,000 dead Americans, with 2500 more every week (that's one 9/11 every single week for the past three months). Ten times that many people will be permanently affected by just this one illness, never mind all the others that continue to collect victims out of the spotlight. Families hurt, jobs lost, and all kinds of other worse things are happening in the world. Cancelled car shows and having to wear a mask are not even remotely close to the end of the world, it's not the beginning of tyranny, and you can ask elderly Japanese Americans about what an overreaching American government really looks like. If how we're dealing with this situation really upsets you enough to boil your blood, then you should check yourself and really think carefully about just how easy, safe, comfortable, and enjoyable your life really is. We are the lucky ones. Never forget that. I am healthy, my family is healthy, we have a home, I have a job, and we can still find ways to enjoy ourselves, all things considered. My kids aren't going to sleep scared that they will starve. I suspect all of you are pretty much in the same boat with me. If you have toy cars and the resources to be on the internet discussing them, then your life is already better than 90% of all the people on the entire planet. Please, let's keep all that in mind before grabbing the torches and pitchforks. Count your blessings, as the phrase goes.
  25. 11 points
    Wow, guys...just because other events are still advertised as they are going to happen does not mean they will. The Governor and State Police will have a say. You folks that do not live in PA do not realize that our Governor is wielding his power in an absolute manner and has threatened our counties and businesses with a loss of licenses and prosecution if they disobey the directives. Local race track that opened last Monday has already been warned that the police will enforce the rules and stop them if they try to run this week. Google Gov Wolf updates and you will realize what YOU think is simple is not. We will not lose billions over the flea market and corral closing but it will hurt many, many people. Does Hershey have a say? NO, HE&R and the Hershey Region do not tell our Governor what to do. In fact to my knowledge the only thing anyone has received from his office is a form letter. It is frustrating to read posts where people think this decision was made lightly, that it was not done in consultation with many stakeholders and that it was the region took the easy way out!! THEY DID NOT! Their work for the entire year has mostly gone up in smoke, they will lose money and they will lose the opportunity to put on an event that they are immensely dedicated to for everyone else. THEY give up the enjoyment of the event and WORK it for you. Trust me, Hershey was my favorite event of the year and I walked the flea market day after day in years past, but now for 19 years the staff and I have worked long days for the national club, I understand the sacrifice the region folks do as our office does as well. No one is asking you to like or be happy about the decision. None of us are as well. Your losses are compounded by us!! Please ease up...nothing else could have been done.
  26. 11 points
    Yes, we are all very upset. I know a lot of ( most?) people were looking forward to Hershey as the one thing this year that would make them happy, make up for all we have had to cope with, and give some peace of mind. Now that is gone, so we have to keep our chin up and "carry on", with out our annual dose of "Hersheyness". Try and think beyond your own needs - the Hershey region put in so much effort ,so many hours,days, weeks and as Steve M. notes don't deserve or need any negativity from any of us. Just think for all the places in the area : hotels, restaurants, gas stations antique stores(!), etc. this is going to be a shot for them too as they were looking forward to recoup some lost income for the year and the annual AACA event has to be one of the biggest ones every year for them. Very Sad that "the greatest show on earth" will not be happening this year , so STAY HEALTHY and make sure you are ready for 2021. Walt
  27. 11 points
    TAPS ACROSS AMERICA - May 25, 2020 at 3:00 PM CST Marty Roth - (and emotion affected quality of play) HONORING THOSE FALLEN IN THE DEFENSE OF OUR COUNTRY ALL GAVE SOME- SOME GAVE ALL Thankful for my father Albert Roth’s safe return from WWII Pacific Theater while while others were not spared- Remembering Albert Roth SeaBees- 6th Special Battalion 1943-1946
  28. 11 points
    May all of these heroes rest in peace....
  29. 11 points
    Matt, I read this and groaned out loud. When I got back into old cars 21 years ago after a 24-year layoff, I started with a Model A Ford because I’d once had one and think they’re neat cars. I joined both Northern NJ and both national Model A clubs. AND HATED THEM! They had no idea how to enjoy an old car tour. They toured in a snake, nose to tail, and it was a mortal sin to stop to take a picture. I sold the Model A, got into brass, and have been having a blast ever since. Our HCCA tours assume that cars are comfortable at different speeds. Some brass cars cruise comfortably at 23 mph and climb hills at 9 mph; some cruise at 45 and climb at 40. Everybody gets a detailed set of instructions (some tourmasters are better at this than others!) and we tour at different speeds. We’re told when lunch will start, and the starting time of anything that isn’t flexible (like a boat ride or a train ride). Every driver should be able to figure out when to start, given the performance of his or her car and what speed s/he and the car are comfortable with. Sometimes a few cars will bunch up for a while, but the slow ones pull over to let faster antiques and moderns pass. And we have separate, shorter tours just for one-and two-cylinder cars and small steamers. I have planned many days’ routes. I start with a computer program called Map My Fitness; it’s designed for hikers and bikers. (There are other, similar plans that some route planners prefer.) I look for back roads, and for safe places to cross major roads. I look at the topographic map in hilly country to avoid the hairiest parts, especially steep downhill stops. Then I go out in a modern car and drive my own instructions. I learn where the computer says I should turn onto County Road 16 but the sign says Smith St., or maybe there’s no sign at all and I have to say First Right After Mailbox 974. I learn where something that looked like a stop sign on the computer really was a light. I learn where a direction would put early cars in danger, and find an alternative (or prominently warn them if there isn’t one). And I find where I said to turn right where I meant to say to turn left (yes, it happens). When I get home, I rewrite the instructions incorporating what I’ve learned. And then I send them to another club member and ask him or her to drive the route and find the stupidities I missed. Usually, on tour day, there are only one or two remaining ambiguities. Sometimes there are places you just shouldn’t go in an early car. Several years ago, a Model T tour was put onto the DC Beltway with a left exit. When confronted by irate tourists, the tourmaster said that was the only route to that destination. So don’t go there, you bloody idiot! I wasn’t there; if I had been, I might have shoved a screwdriver into the guy’s hood. Gil Fitzhugh the Elder
  30. 11 points
    Hi Przemek Here is a pic of my 34 Series 60c Convertible Phaeton
  31. 11 points
    A snake oil product introduced in another thread caused me to remember this incident from 1980. Here is the information I have placed on some other car forums. I believe you might find it entertaining: Cow magnets (1980) I am indirectly partially responsible for the great cow magnet fiasco! My apologies. A lot of years ago, got a call from a gentleman in Texas that had rust issues in his fuel and was going to take the car to the Pate show in a couple of days for sale, and could I overnight a rebuilt carburetor to him today? Well, the answer was no, but; I told him about the Carter Magna-trap. This was a magnet with a special shape to fit into a Carter glass bowl fuel filter. I have told many enthusiasts about this, and suggested one of the refrigerator magnets like your better half uses to stick honey-do jobs to the refrigerator. He told me he had a dairy farm, and had several of the cow magnets (cows are stupid, they will eat just about anything, including baling wire....oops, showing my age again ). If you feed one of the magnets to a cow, the wire doesn't pass into the entire digestive tract (you city folks, use Google, not about to get into the digestive system of a bovine ) He would make a loop in the fuel line and tape three of the magnets to the loop, hopefully to stop the rust from passing into the carburetor. About 3 days later he called, and he was laughing so hard, it took about 15 minutes for him to repeat the story. Seems everyone that looked at the engine asked about the cow magnets. After the first few, he started with a story that he continued to embellish as the day wore on. The final story was the magnets created a flux field, supercharging the fuel molecules, and giving almost non-Newtonian power and fuel economy! Well, you guessed it. P.T. Barnum scores again! This even made the Johnny Carson show (remember the "headlines" segment)? Over 300,000 cow magnets were sold in the southwestern United States within a month. Every supplier was sold out, and had back orders. Here is a link to a picture of the Carter Magnatrap that I placed on my website: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_Magnatrap.jpg Newspaper story: https://www.washingtonpost.com/arch...noredirect=on&utm_term=.19601413ca5d And now you know "the rest of the story" Jon.
  32. 10 points
    Finally, finally, finally, I can relax on my Olds. I put the radiator in yesterday, tightened up the hoses, bottom mounts, and top rods. Based on what happened last time I went no further with reassembly. I filled the radiator up until the water just covered the tops of the tubes as I’ve been told to do and I never had to stop pouring the water in as it went down as fast as I poured it in, something that the other radiator wouldn’t allow. I watched the water come up the top hose through the clear Gano filter I installed which is the right way it should fill up rather than run down from the top tank. So a couple pumps of the gas pedal and a push on the starter pedal and the Olds fired up immediately. Because of the auto choke and special automatic high idle setting featured(all connected to the starter pedal linkage) the engine starts with authority needing to have the idle turned down some right after it starts. It is an incredible starting engine, better than any other old car I’ve ever seen. Well, because of this quick burst of rpm when it starts, I immediately got a ton of air bubbles in my top hose. Slowing the idle down they dissipated but not completely. A rev of the engine and there was a ton of them. OH NO, NOT AGAIN I thought. Please don’t tell me I still had a combustion to coolant leak somewhere in my motor. I started worrying as they wouldn’t stop, only calm down at slow idle but come right back with speed. I shut the car off, went in the house and just tried to forget about it. Later in the night my brother texted me about the 40lb striped bass he caught in the Westport River earlier in the day and I told him what was going on with my car. He said not to worry and he would come over today to look at it with me. When he got here and we fired it up, it continued to exactly the same high rush of bubbles at start up then almost lose them all at low idle. He looked at me and said he didn’t like what he was seeing so we went through a bunch of tests like compression (all were 85-90), pressurizing each piston, and turning it over while rotating spark plugs in and out of cylinders looking for air in the Gano filter to show up but nothing. So we decided to put all the plugs in and put the cap with wires back on. Started the car then took it for a ride. We first went for gas then drove it about 15 miles with the temp only getting above 165 went we purposely stopped on the side of the road to see just how hot it would get. While we still had bubbles as we were driving (the hood was off so we could watch the Gano) the temp went from just under the 180 it finally got to back down to 165. So I mentioned to my brother that we should go back to my garage so I could top of the radiator. His eyes got the size of saucers and he said what do you mean top it off, you didn’t top it off? I said I only filled it to the top of the coils as what was recommended to me by many old car guys. He immediately insisted my problem was air getting trapped in the vertical tubes of the radiator and he bet me that there was nothing wrong with my engine. I should also mention that zero water had been pushed out of the overflow tube either nor was there any leaking anywhere. When we got back to the garage, and with the car running, I pulled the cap, then started adding more water/antifreeze mixture. Well the bubbles and foam started immediately going away and the radiator continued to take more water while ever getting close to the overflow. Now there is only about 1 1/2” from the top of the tubes to the top of the overflow tube so it didn’t seem like it would take that much water but it did and continued to. Within 5-10 minutes of running at a high idle and adding water the air was almost completely gone and the hottest we could get it was 180 in the garage with no hood on and no air movement other than the fan. It ended up taking about 3/4 or slightly more of water and still never pushed any Real water over the overflow. It turns out the new radiator flows so well and the water pump is so efficient that when I would start the engine it would quickly suck the radiator down before the water coming back into the radiator top tank could cover the tubes causing tons of air pockets in the radiator. So I’ll say it again, finally I think I’ve got my cooling issues solved and I can relax!🕺🕺🕺🕺
  33. 10 points
    At some point during what would have been Hershey week, I'm going to set up an awning and a couple of tables in the back yard, put some stuff on the tables, and sit back with a glass of single malt and think about all the Hershey's I've ever been to. Join me and post photos- we'll have a "virtual Hershey." Terry
  34. 10 points
    I drove this one about 30 miles this morning, taking it back to its owner after we replaced the water pump, fixed the speedometer gear, installed an original 1937 Buick heater & defroster (It's originally an Arizona car that didn't come with that), and some minor things. This '37 Roadmaster is as quiet at highway speeds as any new car--I was amazed. 83 years old and still cruising at highway speeds!
  35. 10 points
    Already handled!!!! Deleting one post cannot delete a thread. However, all threads are now set up so that they can be recovered by us if they accidentally or on purpose get deleted but then need to be brought back.
  36. 10 points
    Had a great trip to Whitehall, NY. Great because with the last repair I discovered a vacuum leak that apparently I engineered years and YEARs ago. Apparently I missed tightening the vacuum line clamp at the power brake booster. Anyway, maybe I am overateting it but I felt like it really ran excellent today. Visited Skene Manor in Whitehall to take pictures of a Chapter Members Le Sabre for our chapter newsletter. Meanwhile I snuck in these two. One from the town looking at the manor, the other from the manor looking out over the town. 110 miles alltogether...
  37. 10 points
    Got the cut away engine working. It runs on an electric motor, and you can bypass it with the clutch to run it by hand. Even the spark plug light for ignition is working.........very, very cool piece. In the world of cool man cave items, this is the top toy I have ever seen. It came from the 1917 auto show circuit according to the notes included with it from the 1950's. It's almost 6 feet tall, on the original stand, and has not been restored. I could sit and watch it for hours...........
  38. 9 points
    OK, I'm going to change my answer. For me, it's LOOKING FOR all the tools I didn't put away properly after the last job. 😨
  39. 9 points
    Doors, fenders and hood were aligned and adjusted for proper fit. Blue tape marks location of small scratches that were unintentionally made while making final adjustments. Paint have to be touch up in those area, will be using an airbrush system. Next will be polishing so I can start assembly. Way overdue!
  40. 9 points
    One More Photo. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America
  41. 9 points
    Gentlemen, let's not give Steve an ulcer. Just let it go...........you can't change what you can't change. Steve.......I'm buying drinks when I'm in town next time.......and lunch at the Hershey Hotel. Thanks for all you do........24/7/365. 👍
  42. 9 points
    OK, I'm trying to figure this out...............an event which does NOT charge an entrance fee for tens of thousands of people over five days.............and people are complaining that the club and region don't want to gamble 200K or better up front just to find out the state, county, township, lawyers, insurance companies, and a bunch of other people who could pull the plug at the last minute? It was obvious the fall meet was doomed back in April. Sad, depressing, but true. If they can pull off a car show, I will come the 1500 miles to see it.........and of the last 49 years, I have only stayed for the show three times. The logic of going even if it's only a smaller show........a placeholder for employment time off/vacation week. I figure I'll haul my car down to the area and tour with it..........
  43. 9 points
    PLEASE read my post in the meets and tours section. It explains things in a bit more detail. This was a gut-wrenching situation that affects all of us but think about the region members who have worked ALL YEAR long to have this event yet to have had to make this decision! Sorry, but very few of you have any remote idea of the challenges during this pandemic presented to the region! They simply became insurmountable.
  44. 9 points
    At a time when the old car hobby and the entire Country is going through a great period of uncertainty. I am pleased to announced that the BCA National Meet for 2021 has has been modified with some first ever changes. The Meet will take place on two consecutive weekends. Part one will be in Charlotte (Concord) North Carolina as had been previously announced. The dates will be changed to June 30 through July 3. The host hotel will remain the same . Part two will be held in Strongsville Ohio on July 7 through July 10. The host hotel in Strongsville is not ready to accept reservations at this time. The National Meet and the BOD both went through a lot of serious discussion about whether this was a good or a bad idea. Many Americans and BCA members are frothing at the bit, to get back to some type of normalcy. The Northeast Ohio Chapter had done a superior job in planning a National Meet. Early registrations and hotel room bookings showed that this was to be a big meet. There was no fair (or financially feasible) way to push all other meets back a year. Thinking outside the box, the host chapters for 2020 and 2021 as well as the National meet Committee decided to have two meets in a row. Possibilities of having them at opposite end of the Summer or a few weeks apart were discussed, but there is currently a frenzy of hotel bookings going on by groups that have had to cancel things for this year. As it turned out, we chose the only weekends possible to give both Chapters a chance to host a National Meet. This situation will give members a chance to attend either two Meets or just attend one Meet. There are a lot of details and planning going on to make this happen, with possible discounts for attending two meets etc. It is even possible that she group may want to set up a tour between Meets. The good news is that a lot of planing is now going on, but we do. have both of those dates locked in. There is much uncertainty going on in the Country at the moment, and the crystal balls of the NMC and the BOD are no better than anyone else's . It is known that the financial impact many of us are currently feeling may affect future meets, no matter how much planing goes in to them. All we can do is to try and give BCA members the best product we can. We know that some people will love this idea and some will not. I personally think that if the National situation resolves itself , we could have a great Buick Summer in 2021. I would ask anyone responding to this thread to be respectful to the Club volunteers that have worked hard to try and put together a great Anniversary party for the BCA's 50th National Meet celebration.Further details will be posted here as they become available.
  45. 9 points
    I’d like to thank everyone for their inputs. I have been a member of many online forums, and this group has set the standard for interacting with a new member... I am so impressed that I joined the AACA today. What an amazing group of people. Thank you SO much. Joe
  46. 9 points
    This is a true testament to your character, a lesser person would have said nothing. I can safely say that there's not a person here who has not made a mistake, though not all are willing to admit to it, especially in a public forum. Thank you and do not be too hard on yourself. I vote with TerryB that we go for round 2.
  47. 9 points
    John_S_in_Penna - Here are a couple of pictures of the car. Both have appeared previously in this forum.
  48. 9 points
    First off I would like to thank the other Franklin owners and club members for you freely shared knowledge and advice..... Air cooled engines and Franklins in particular, are new to me...... I have owned, worked on and driven, many pre 1931 Dodges, Chryslers and model A's ...... But none of them have even come close to the exceptional way this Franklin handled, on these rough, wash boarded dirt roads, that I have to drive on to get to the nearest small town. After buying this 145 sedan in November of last year, and working on it all winter and early spring... it is now finally insured and back on the road as my weekly driver to town... The ride is sooooo smooth on these 18 miles of rough roads... and it has to climb out of this canyon, where we live on a 1,500 acre Nature Preserve, bordering the Gila Wilderness area...... we climb and descend 1,000 ft elevation in less than a mile on a narrow loose dirt and rock, one lane road ...... the tires didn't slip or spin on the steep inclines..... the low 'granny' gear was excellent for crawling out of the canyon and especially good for descending....... saving the use of the brakes.... Up on the flat mesa areas, where I could drive in third gear... it has so much power and smooth acceleration ...... I am impressed...... and the steering was very tight and it was not a constant struggle to keep it driving straight and smooth on the uneven, bumpy, wash board road...... the suspension was very smooth... and we did not even feel the wash board areas... that normally rattle my false teeth in our Toyota 4x4 pickup.... it was like floating on a cloud... driving on these rough dirt, country roads ....... This Franklin is by far the most comfortable pre-war vehicle I have driven...... here are a few photos of it's maiden 'voyage'...... on roads of it's era...... Our House and gardens are seen down in the bottom of the canyon by the creek
  49. 9 points
    Going to be installing new wood into both doors. KC Wood had a pair of wood kits for the doors and only sellls them as a pair so the trucks owner ordered them.this means the truck will basically have all new wood other than the A pillars, lower and upper windshield cross bars. Should be super solid when it’s all installed. The owner wanted just a wood floor to the under seat storage area soone was made up from ash plywood. New floorboards were made as originally made from plain plywood. The interior ash got coats of minwax satin finish and the floorboards got the pine tar/turpentine stain/preservative mixture that I used on my Olds wheels. The bed of this truck will get the same color treatment then satin finished. The bed will get a spar varnish covering for UV and weather protection. The owner also complained to me about things falling between the seat back and cushion area. This truck has different from original seats in it so I installed the seat back and cushion to have a look. One issue is the bottom cushion hadn’t been going back far enough because it was dropping inside the seat back at the back edge. There is no center front to back support rail so I will install on. This will prevent the back of the cushion from dropping inside and allow it to stay on top all the bay to the back of the seat box. This will give it total perimeter support like it should have. New post blocks will be installed so the cushion slides back and stays in its correct location. Looking at the seat back height, I think I’m going to try and lowering it about 1/2” inch. This will apply more pressure where they meet and hopefully help prevent things from sliding down the crack.
  50. 9 points
    Old Cars with Big Engines, great video, be sure to have your audio on. https://www.youtube.com/embed/AsKjPwRaA5Q