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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/2020 in all areas

  1. Necessary controls located within the drivers reach came first. Early cars often had things like drip oilers and ignition components ;trembler coils and similar, mounted on the firewall right in front of the driver as they needed frequent monitoring and adjustment. As vehicles progressed and things like speed limits were effected, accessory's like clocks and mile-o--meters and speedometers became popular. The firewall became the logical place to mount such items. At some point in the late pre- teens or early teens the dashboard as we now think of it came along at about the same time bodyw
    4 points
  2. The next task was to shape the levers for the brake cam actuation lever. Those tiny parts required a lot of work as usual. Both parts on the right side have some dots stamped on them as reference mark for the shaft as they are not interchangeable; the line you can see is for the proper indexing for the shaft for the same reason. Once installed on the brake shields, the dots will be on the inner side, therefore they will not be seen. The pins at the end of the shafts will help to locate the cams prior to silver soldering. I still have to add one or two details to those levers; it will then be
    3 points
  3. November 2019 Hemmings Classic Cars had an editorial by editor Richard Lentinello called "Desired Undesirables" He list 8 cars that a few years ago he would not have considered owning and the Reatta is one of them. (The other cars were, Buick GN, Cadillac Eldorado Touring coupe, Chevrolet Citation X-11, Dodge Caravan, Mazda RX-7, Oldsmobile Trofeo, Volkswagen GTI) You need to read the entire article to get to reasons. Jump ahead to March 2020 Hemming Classic Cars and Dan Tyransky of Chesterland OH responded in letters to the editors.....telling about the 1990 (red/tan) Re
    3 points
  4. If any shop has a problem assembeling a post war V-8 engine, I would take it to another shop and tear it down.(all the way) A "Y" engine is simple, and if you can't get it right on the first try, you shouldn't get another chance.
    3 points
  5. While watching the B-J Auction the other night, I almost snorted my beer when a "patina-wrapped" vehicle came across the block. Here's an example of the look: Talk about taking a trend and over doing it! Patina is O.K. on certain vehicles, but it has to be real. What's next, a patina wrap on a brand new C-8 Corvette? Maybe it's just me. End of rant. Cheers, Grog
    2 points
  6. A little late to the game, but my 32 DL is set up the same as keiser31's 31. A lot of grease and grime, but you can see the shock and mount in this picture taken during disassembly. The restored parts. You can see the longer front u-bolts for attaching the shock plate.
    2 points
  7. And when a bullfrog jumps he would not bump his rear end had he flapped his wings. For the experienced mechanic with mechanical aptitude to rebuild an engine would not be so hard. For others that are not so mechanical I Would be reluctant to say to them all you have to do is read the book. To minimize skills required to rebuild engines I think is myopic. It’s like saying reinstalling the evaporator box, plenum rubber, and hoses Under the dash of a 63 zRiviera requires reading the manual. The manual shows how it goes together, but not how to reinstall the rascal. In some cases you have
    2 points
  8. My daughter took up embroidery. She made this from scratch for me!
    2 points
  9. The dash board was originally a wooden board that stood up ahead of the seat of a buggy, to deflect mud dashed up by the horse's hooves. First car equipped with a speedometer was the 1901 curved dash Oldsmobile runabout, quite a feat considering the speedo as we know it was not invented until 1902. The Warner Electric company pioneered the auto speedometer, patterned after a cut-meter they made to measure the cutting speed of machine tools. They promoted the use of their speedos so effectively that by 1910 9 out of 10 speedos in use were made by Warner.
    2 points
  10. I agree with what Matt says. Besides Miller & Lincoln, I would add Hobart. I have a Hobart MIG welder that will run on both 120 & 240 volts. So far I have been happy with it and it works well. I bought mine at Tractor Supply. The MOST IMPORTANT statement made by Matt is be sure you buy a welder that you can get parts for. If not, the welder will only be as good as the first part to wear out. The three brand names stated in this discussion should have parts availability for the long future. All other non name brand welders, ??? Just IMO
    2 points
  11. Here is the completed chassis. I hope to get the engine and transmission installed in the next month or so. Then to get all of the control rods installed and then the body.
    2 points
  12. If you can post a picture, a box may come to you from someone who does not know that it is correct for a Maxwell.
    2 points
  13. White and Humphries were the largest Standard Eight distributors in California. They even attempted (and built) to build a custom speedster based on the Standard Eight. - Bob
    2 points
  14. Most important question: What kind of welder? Brand names always better than the off-brands (of which there are many) but that doesn't mean they're bad. I'll assume you're looking at a MIG, which is a great choice for a hobbyist and a novice. Make sure that the wire moves easily through the cable and torch and that the regulator flows properly. If possible, run a few test beads at all settings to evaluate whether it's working properly--some Chinese brands have little more than ON and OFF settings even though it looks like they have more. If possible, do a few passes on whatever mat
    2 points
  15. I’m still not thoroughly convinced that a Chrysler Six used the chopped off plate, I have a question in the Bob Scafani about this to see if he has a set. Chrysler did “extras” above and beyond Dodge and Plymouth on the 6’s. I am however using this design until further notice! 😆
    2 points
  16. stakeside FYI---it is Doug Walters who has scanned in all these items. Please give credit where due. It has been a HUGE job, and we can not thank him enough for this effort. By the way, Doug, I can not find invoices for Victory Sixes on the club website listings.
    2 points
  17. Aw, come'on Roberta. All members who have served on the board have had suggestions ignored. And as just a lowly member offering my suggestions to board members, I have been ignored (even by you)...but hey, we are all still friends (right?).
    2 points
  18. When you say you cant get the propane from the RV to the small bottles are you referring to those small torches? Those things don't get hot enough to do much good. You need an oxy acetylene set up to get real heat.
    2 points
  19. I was a 35 year rural mail carrier, I never used a RHD vehicle. I found them to be too cumbersome in trying to do my work. A coworker used a RHD Subaru and preferred that as he was a very short person. As I stated earlier in this thread I would like to find an RHD Model A Phaeton.
    2 points
  20. The nightmare door panels. Here is how I made cardboard templates for the particle board door panels. (But at least this car had panels, my 1957 Chevy has no panels and I will have to just wing it. I will use the same method on it as well.) First I used newspapers to get the general shape of the door panel to transfer to the cardboard and cut the cardboard out. Plus I tried to line up the holes and things onto the cardboard. Checking the fit. Getting everything lined up on the cardboard.
    2 points
  21. Vinyl is making a comeback!
    2 points
  22. Nice car. I get it. But I don’t get it. I’m trying to get it. I may be too old at 68 to get it. But if it keeps the hobby going, I may get it. Unless I don’t get it. In any case, under 20k doesn’t buy much these days, and that’s a very nice car.... and well presented as always....dc
    2 points
  23. Hi All Well this is an interesting discussion. As an owner of an RHD in a LHD here is one owner’s perspective. First, a thank you to Gill for the complement on my ’15 Ford Canadian RHD roadster. Here in Nova Scotia, we drove on the left side of the road up to 1923 before switching over as did the neighbouring provinces. Ford Canada built both LHD and RHD for the Canadian markets and early on also for Australia and the UK. So for me, locating and restoring a local RHD model was high on the desirability list. I’m not the only one in the area either as there are around a half
    2 points
  24. This message is from the back of a Massey Ferguson operator's manual from 1969. Seems to be quite appropriate to working on and driving our vehicles to this day.
    2 points
  25. You make some good points, Xander. But we do vehicle wraps in my shop, and there is no way we could even buy the material for a grand. People see our work and come zipping into our office quite often on a whim, and ask us things like, "How much to make my whole van look like a helmet for the _______ ?" (insert favorite NFL team here) My brother once made his girlfriends' van look like a P-40 of Flying Tigers fame, and that brought lots of people into the shop. But when we tell them to figure 4-5 grand for starters, it usually sends them packing.
    2 points
  26. I suspect what you're experiencing is the Ackerman angle getting wonky. Ackerman is the relationship between the tie rods and the spindles and on lowered cars, that gets pushed all out of whack. Essentially the steering box and tie rods remain in the same place they were when the suspension was stock but the connection point on the spindle is higher relative to stock (because the suspension is lowered and therefore the body is closer to the ground and therefore the steering box is closer to the ground). It depends on how the car was lowered, but essentially you're now moving the tie rods throu
    2 points
  27. I don't personally understand what the big deal is about "patina". Personally, the rust and wear only looks like an old ratty car to me! Nobody ever describes a worn, dirty , paint peeling house as having a "nice patina"!
    2 points
  28. I am with you . Supposed to be fun. Ben
    2 points
  29. A view when new. It is not Brunn's greatest design but I think it is ok. A blind rear quarter would have been better. According to notes from the 2nd owner, the body was originally intended for the smaller 135 inch wheel base. This car has 145.
    2 points
  30. I had several distractions today but still managed to make two threaded sleeves. I have to make 30 of these so it is important I make sure they will work. 12 are for the main bearing studs. Those will be 9/16-18 on the OD and 7/16-20 on the ID. 18 are for the sump. They will be 9/16-18 OD and 3/8-16 ID. Cutting a 9/16 thread with this tool is pushing the envelope but it seems to work, probably because this is free-machining brass. The long one is for the main bearings and the short one for the sump. I also got 4 packages in the mail at the end o
    2 points
  31. "Too soon old, too late smart"..I've been in the senior category for awhile and that describes me...
    2 points
  32. Drove Almendrón a total of 45 miles to South Beach for the annual Art Deco Festival and car show. What a gorgeous 82 degree sunny day! Not rubbing it in my snowbirds friends!
    2 points
  33. Although I would get it running first and said as much, I can't believe we are discouraging the idea of restoring this when the original poster has been warned about the time and cost of such an undertaking, and still has his mind set on doing it. Is this not a restoration site? A 1936 Buick is a WOODEN body, with a metal skin. The wood, if bad, is really a bigger problem than anything else I see here. I don't mean to be discouraging, it is certainly possible to fix. I am learning how as we speak. Where are the 1936 Buick owners? IIRC there are a few who frequent these
    1 point
  34. I don’t believe there was any royalty arrangement to HS. All the rights to the HS V8 were fully vested to Standard Steel as part of the purchase. Thus Standard Steel was the only producer of the HS V8 for all other brand uses ( Peerless excludes) with all monies for sales going to Standard Steel Car Co - Bob
    1 point
  35. From my research on the HS V8 and the Standard Eight automobile it appears that , while built by different companies (Peerless and Standard Steel Car), the 1915/1916 HS V8s built by Peerless and Standard were very close to being almost identical. But beginning with the 1917 production year the two engine designs began to deviate from each other as both companies implemented their own improvements to the engine design. - Bob
    1 point
  36. I think a wind-up clock would also qualify as one of the first instruments with a dial face that appeared on a car dashboard. Craig
    1 point
  37. Transmission Removal With the help of several very kind friends, we pulled the transmission out of my car today so I could deal with the problem of it popping out of third gear on a downgrade. Not an easy job, but things went very smoothly and we had it out in about four hours. I haven't had a chance to inspect things in detail yet, but here's a pic of the front bearing. Anyone see anything wrong here? 😉 And here's a shot of the rear of the engine. Again, things don't look quite right. I will be taking the
    1 point
  38. Just an FYI...pretty sure the original fuel cap is vented Tom Mooney
    1 point
  39. Jeff Lee in Nova Scotia has a nicely-restored 1915 Canadian Model T with right-hand drive (correct) and painted blue (correct). If I were looking for a T roadster I wouldn't hesitate to buy that one. The unusual provenance is an interesting talking point.
    1 point
  40. Restored 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sports Coupe Original matching numbers chassis and engine - Recently rebuilt (50 miles) 330 cubic inch 4 barrel V8 with 320 horsepower – Period correct quadrajet carb Working factory a/c - Upgraded power front disc brakes - Power steering Period correct factory automatic jetaway 330/ST300 2-speed switch pitch transmission Metalic blue - Body exceptionally - New matching basketweave headliner, new cloth seats and new vinyl blue interior New interior with bucket seats and center console floor shifter
    1 point
  41. The Brunn bodied J8-90 car is for sale. See attached picture. Chance to own something nobody else has. I would like someone else to step up so I don't have to.
    1 point
  42. Did you plastigauge the bearings? The crank shaft should spin freely before hooking up the rods. Then a bit more resistance for the rings (lots of oil on them). Plastigauge on the rod bearings is a must. None of this is specific to Fords.
    1 point
  43. I suspect it's the dry air – something I doubt you get much of in Norfolk.
    1 point
  44. https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/albany-1936-buick-series-40/7054599593.html Been for sale for a while now.
    1 point
  45. Jaguar F type or a Porsche Boxster would be nice weekend cars, and maybe the C6, C7 Corvette. Not sure about the newest one yet.
    1 point
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