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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Necessary controls located within the drivers reach came first. Early cars often had things like drip oilers and ignition components ;trembler coils and similar, mounted on the firewall right in front of the driver as they needed frequent monitoring and adjustment. As vehicles progressed and things like speed limits were effected, accessory's like clocks and mile-o--meters and speedometers became popular. The firewall became the logical place to mount such items. At some point in the late pre- teens or early teens the dashboard as we now think of it came along at about the same time bodywork in front of the seats became popular. Prior to that most vehicles simply had the flat surface of the firewall for mounting controls and accessory's. the extended cowl bodywork made it difficult to see and adjust items mounted to the firewall so a separate panel was fitted ; usually underneath the back edge of the cowl, to bring things back to a position where the driver could access them. Racing cars generally adopted forward bodywork before regular use vehicles as added protection from flying mud, stones and similar hazards to the driver and sometimes riding mechanic in high speed events. The first dash board was possibly fitted to a specialised racing or record breaking machine. Who was the first is any ones guess. Greg in Canada
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    The next task was to shape the levers for the brake cam actuation lever. Those tiny parts required a lot of work as usual. Both parts on the right side have some dots stamped on them as reference mark for the shaft as they are not interchangeable; the line you can see is for the proper indexing for the shaft for the same reason. Once installed on the brake shields, the dots will be on the inner side, therefore they will not be seen. The pins at the end of the shafts will help to locate the cams prior to silver soldering. I still have to add one or two details to those levers; it will then be the turn to do the bearing for the shafts. On the real vehicle, the bearing is adjustable by loosing a nut and applying the brakes; I think I will skip this feature as the brake shoes will anyway be also adapted to each drum and brake shield. Sure, this practice is contrary to the one of Mr. Leyland; the purpose of my construction is not the same!
  4. 3 points
    November 2019 Hemmings Classic Cars had an editorial by editor Richard Lentinello called "Desired Undesirables" He list 8 cars that a few years ago he would not have considered owning and the Reatta is one of them. (The other cars were, Buick GN, Cadillac Eldorado Touring coupe, Chevrolet Citation X-11, Dodge Caravan, Mazda RX-7, Oldsmobile Trofeo, Volkswagen GTI) You need to read the entire article to get to reasons. Jump ahead to March 2020 Hemming Classic Cars and Dan Tyransky of Chesterland OH responded in letters to the editors.....telling about the 1990 (red/tan) Reatta convertible that he just purchased from his aunt's neighbor in Ft Myers FL. He references the Nov articles and tell how pleased is with the Reatta. They even included a photo of Dan's convertible..... little things like this help keep the car in print for other car collectors and help them realize there are good collectable cars out there that are quite reasonable to purchase.
  5. 3 points
    If any shop has a problem assembeling a post war V-8 engine, I would take it to another shop and tear it down.(all the way) A "Y" engine is simple, and if you can't get it right on the first try, you shouldn't get another chance.
  6. 2 points
    While watching the B-J Auction the other night, I almost snorted my beer when a "patina-wrapped" vehicle came across the block. Here's an example of the look: Talk about taking a trend and over doing it! Patina is O.K. on certain vehicles, but it has to be real. What's next, a patina wrap on a brand new C-8 Corvette? Maybe it's just me. End of rant. Cheers, Grog
  7. 2 points
    A little late to the game, but my 32 DL is set up the same as keiser31's 31. A lot of grease and grime, but you can see the shock and mount in this picture taken during disassembly. The restored parts. You can see the longer front u-bolts for attaching the shock plate.
  8. 2 points
    And when a bullfrog jumps he would not bump his rear end had he flapped his wings. For the experienced mechanic with mechanical aptitude to rebuild an engine would not be so hard. For others that are not so mechanical I Would be reluctant to say to them all you have to do is read the book. To minimize skills required to rebuild engines I think is myopic. It’s like saying reinstalling the evaporator box, plenum rubber, and hoses Under the dash of a 63 zRiviera requires reading the manual. The manual shows how it goes together, but not how to reinstall the rascal. In some cases you have great insights in other cases you have blinders blocking your view. It’s hard to have it right all the time. Turbinator
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    My daughter took up embroidery. She made this from scratch for me!
  11. 2 points
    The dash board was originally a wooden board that stood up ahead of the seat of a buggy, to deflect mud dashed up by the horse's hooves. First car equipped with a speedometer was the 1901 curved dash Oldsmobile runabout, quite a feat considering the speedo as we know it was not invented until 1902. The Warner Electric company pioneered the auto speedometer, patterned after a cut-meter they made to measure the cutting speed of machine tools. They promoted the use of their speedos so effectively that by 1910 9 out of 10 speedos in use were made by Warner.
  12. 2 points
    I agree with what Matt says. Besides Miller & Lincoln, I would add Hobart. I have a Hobart MIG welder that will run on both 120 & 240 volts. So far I have been happy with it and it works well. I bought mine at Tractor Supply. The MOST IMPORTANT statement made by Matt is be sure you buy a welder that you can get parts for. If not, the welder will only be as good as the first part to wear out. The three brand names stated in this discussion should have parts availability for the long future. All other non name brand welders, ??? Just IMO
  13. 2 points
    Here is the completed chassis. I hope to get the engine and transmission installed in the next month or so. Then to get all of the control rods installed and then the body.
  14. 2 points
    If you can post a picture, a box may come to you from someone who does not know that it is correct for a Maxwell.
  15. 2 points
    White and Humphries were the largest Standard Eight distributors in California. They even attempted (and built) to build a custom speedster based on the Standard Eight. - Bob
  16. 2 points
    Most important question: What kind of welder? Brand names always better than the off-brands (of which there are many) but that doesn't mean they're bad. I'll assume you're looking at a MIG, which is a great choice for a hobbyist and a novice. Make sure that the wire moves easily through the cable and torch and that the regulator flows properly. If possible, run a few test beads at all settings to evaluate whether it's working properly--some Chinese brands have little more than ON and OFF settings even though it looks like they have more. If possible, do a few passes on whatever material you plan to weld, especially if it's sheet metal. I would not even consider a flux-core welder; get one that uses shielding gas for best results. Whatever brand you might be considering, look at replacement parts availability. Things like the cable sheath, torch, and wire feed/motor may all need to be replaced at some point so you should know whether you can get those parts easily or if they're obsolete or only sold in Zimbabwe. Also consider the power of the welder. There are plenty of 120V units that work on household current, and most of the well-known manufacturers make both small and medium versions--get the medium if possible. It will handle thicker material and lay down better welds with more precision because it will be using less of its potential. Easier to make a big welder do light work than to make a little welder do heavy work. My advice is always to buy the best tool you can possibly afford. A used Miller or Lincoln Electric welder will cost a bit more, but it will serve you well for many years, offer great parts and technical support, and be easier to work with as a novice compared to an inexpensive used flux core metal-sticker-togetherer from Xuixong Industries. Show us some potentials and maybe we can offer tips. I love welding!
  17. 2 points
    I’m still not thoroughly convinced that a Chrysler Six used the chopped off plate, I have a question in the Bob Scafani about this to see if he has a set. Chrysler did “extras” above and beyond Dodge and Plymouth on the 6’s. I am however using this design until further notice! 😆
  18. 2 points
    stakeside FYI---it is Doug Walters who has scanned in all these items. Please give credit where due. It has been a HUGE job, and we can not thank him enough for this effort. By the way, Doug, I can not find invoices for Victory Sixes on the club website listings.
  19. 2 points
    Aw, come'on Roberta. All members who have served on the board have had suggestions ignored. And as just a lowly member offering my suggestions to board members, I have been ignored (even by you)...but hey, we are all still friends (right?).
  20. 2 points
    When you say you cant get the propane from the RV to the small bottles are you referring to those small torches? Those things don't get hot enough to do much good. You need an oxy acetylene set up to get real heat.
  21. 2 points
    I was a 35 year rural mail carrier, I never used a RHD vehicle. I found them to be too cumbersome in trying to do my work. A coworker used a RHD Subaru and preferred that as he was a very short person. As I stated earlier in this thread I would like to find an RHD Model A Phaeton.
  22. 2 points
    The nightmare door panels. Here is how I made cardboard templates for the particle board door panels. (But at least this car had panels, my 1957 Chevy has no panels and I will have to just wing it. I will use the same method on it as well.) First I used newspapers to get the general shape of the door panel to transfer to the cardboard and cut the cardboard out. Plus I tried to line up the holes and things onto the cardboard. Checking the fit. Getting everything lined up on the cardboard. Then transferring this cardboard template to the particle board. And using adhesive to attach the vinyl. And when you are done it should look like this.
  23. 2 points
    Vinyl is making a comeback!
  24. 2 points
    Nice car. I get it. But I don’t get it. I’m trying to get it. I may be too old at 68 to get it. But if it keeps the hobby going, I may get it. Unless I don’t get it. In any case, under 20k doesn’t buy much these days, and that’s a very nice car.... and well presented as always....dc
  25. 2 points
    Hi All Well this is an interesting discussion. As an owner of an RHD in a LHD here is one owner’s perspective. First, a thank you to Gill for the complement on my ’15 Ford Canadian RHD roadster. Here in Nova Scotia, we drove on the left side of the road up to 1923 before switching over as did the neighbouring provinces. Ford Canada built both LHD and RHD for the Canadian markets and early on also for Australia and the UK. So for me, locating and restoring a local RHD model was high on the desirability list. I’m not the only one in the area either as there are around a half dozen or more restored RHD Ts. So for me it was worth a small premium to acquire a RHD even when living in a LHD world. However since I live in a busy area and want to drive on the road, I did add electric brake and turn signals to the car for visibility before ever leaving the drive way. As to the RHD vs LHD value. As with real estate, location, location, location. RHD Ts are the odd ball and sometimes less desirable model in North America. However take that same car to the UK (or perhaps Australia) where the values for Ts is higher to start with (then here anyway) and I expect that a ready to run RHD T would attract a premium over a similar LHD model in a RHD market. The market location says it all. The LHD E Type Jaguar is more desirable here than an RHD model, but take the same car to the UK and the relative value will be reversed. So the like most of the collector car market, location and the eye of the beholder is a big part of the perceived and market value of any car by purchaser. Drive Safe Jeff Nova Scotia Canada
  26. 2 points
    This message is from the back of a Massey Ferguson operator's manual from 1969. Seems to be quite appropriate to working on and driving our vehicles to this day.
  27. 2 points
    You make some good points, Xander. But we do vehicle wraps in my shop, and there is no way we could even buy the material for a grand. People see our work and come zipping into our office quite often on a whim, and ask us things like, "How much to make my whole van look like a helmet for the _______ ?" (insert favorite NFL team here) My brother once made his girlfriends' van look like a P-40 of Flying Tigers fame, and that brought lots of people into the shop. But when we tell them to figure 4-5 grand for starters, it usually sends them packing.
  28. 2 points
    I suspect what you're experiencing is the Ackerman angle getting wonky. Ackerman is the relationship between the tie rods and the spindles and on lowered cars, that gets pushed all out of whack. Essentially the steering box and tie rods remain in the same place they were when the suspension was stock but the connection point on the spindle is higher relative to stock (because the suspension is lowered and therefore the body is closer to the ground and therefore the steering box is closer to the ground). It depends on how the car was lowered, but essentially you're now moving the tie rods through a different part of their travel. Since the range of travel is an arc, the distance between the steering box and spindles has been shortened somewhat and gets even shorter when you go over a bump and compress the suspension. It's easy enough to set up a static alignment to keep the car going straight, but as the suspension compresses, the already shorter tie rods pull the spindles inwards more than they should, causing the squirrely handling. It can be especially pronounced while turning a corner where the left and right wheels have to also travel a different radius. Here's a quick diagram of your tie rods (red) as viewed head-on from the front of the car. You can see how the relationship between the tie rods and their attachment point on the spindle can drastically affect steering (the blue arcs represent the travel of the tie rod end on the spindle). On a stock setup, Ackerman is arranged so that the tie rods are moving through the widest point of their radius pretty consistently. But you'll also note that as the suspension compresses on a lowered car, the tie rods pull the wheels inward significantly more than they do on the stock suspension as they move through the upper areas of their travel (the blue arc). What's the fix? Probably some creative aligning, perhaps some spacers on the spindles to move the tie rods back down to an angle closer to horizontal (or whatever stock spec is), or even different spindles. For instance, "drop spindles" mostly avoid this problem because they simply move the location of the wheel relative to the suspension rather than lowering the entire suspension as with shorter springs. There might even be brackets that relocate the steering box lower on the frame, but I'm not sure whether that would require modifications to the steering column. Or you could put it back to stock ride height, but I'm guessing you don't want to do that. It'll be a little twitchy no matter what, but a good alignment shop and the right components can mostly alleviate the problem. When I lowered my 5.0 Mustang and went racing, alignment was critical and I machined some spacers to drop the steering rack a bit to put the tie rods back into a more friendly relationship with the spindles. You might also check to see if they installed a quick-ratio steering box when they lowered it (or--God forbid--a modern rack). That can add to the touchiness. Putting in a slower steering box will at least reduce that over-sensitive unpredictability. Hope this helps!
  29. 2 points
    I don't personally understand what the big deal is about "patina". Personally, the rust and wear only looks like an old ratty car to me! Nobody ever describes a worn, dirty , paint peeling house as having a "nice patina"!
  30. 2 points
    I am with you . Supposed to be fun. Ben
  31. 2 points
    A view when new. It is not Brunn's greatest design but I think it is ok. A blind rear quarter would have been better. According to notes from the 2nd owner, the body was originally intended for the smaller 135 inch wheel base. This car has 145.
  32. 2 points
    I had several distractions today but still managed to make two threaded sleeves. I have to make 30 of these so it is important I make sure they will work. 12 are for the main bearing studs. Those will be 9/16-18 on the OD and 7/16-20 on the ID. 18 are for the sump. They will be 9/16-18 OD and 3/8-16 ID. Cutting a 9/16 thread with this tool is pushing the envelope but it seems to work, probably because this is free-machining brass. The long one is for the main bearings and the short one for the sump. I also got 4 packages in the mail at the end of the day, including these nice Franklin brake-line fittings from my friend Mike West that I'll use to conduct oil to the center main and the center camshaft bearing. The hex stock and the collet I need to make the final parts for the water pump also came in so I've gone from having to think of something to make to having plenty to do.
  33. 2 points
    "Too soon old, too late smart"..I've been in the senior category for awhile and that describes me...
  34. 2 points
    Drove Almendrón a total of 45 miles to South Beach for the annual Art Deco Festival and car show. What a gorgeous 82 degree sunny day! Not rubbing it in my snowbirds friends!
  35. 1 point
    Some other makes I have encountered which used the Standard Steel Car produced HS V8 include (and I am sure there are others): Abbott-Detroit Anderson Apperson Common Sense Tractor Daniels (I have seen Daniels listed as using their own V8 design also) Douglas Drummond Murray Rock Falls Ross Bob
  36. 1 point
    Like it or not, Japanese cars are collectible and you're going to see more and more of them showing up at AACA events. That 10,000 original mile MR2 sold in about a month with multiple guys fighting over it. The 24,000 mile 280Z Turbo was so popular that guys called me asking me to let them talk to the guy who bought it. And for guys about my age (50) who grew up in the '80s, cars like this 1985 Toyota Supra are much like the Camaros and '57 Chevys that previous generations grew up with and later collected. The hobby still works the way it always has, it's just the age of the cars is changing. Which brings me around to this stunningly well-preserved Supra. This is the car you want to own and it's a slam-dunk for HPOF competition. It's had just two owners and despite spending almost all its life in Minnesota, it is spotless (and that's a word I don't use lightly or often). It is fully documented with window sticker, manuals, ownership papers, and service receipts dating back more than 30 years and it appears that the same shop took care of it for most of its life. Everything works, it offers a desirable color combination, and every single option except a sunroof. There are a few minor signs of use on the original paint, but nothing that needs any attention and it has obviously never been hit or rusty. The medium red is about right for a car like this, neither overtly sporting nor something awful, which were on the color charts in 1985. 1985 was the only year it came with the big SUPRA decal on the tailgate, and I kind of like that detail. Leather seats were a $700 option, and this car has them and they're beautifully preserved with no cracks, splits, or even significant wear. Original carpets are protected by original mats, the dash isn't cracked or split, and the headliner was replaced a few months ago. Supras came only one way: loaded, which means power windows, locks, seats, and mirrors, a decent AM/FM/cassette stereo with graphic equalizer (remember those?), and automatic climate control, all of which work properly. The trunk is in great shape except for one little spot where it faded for some reason, and the original, untouched, unused Dunlop spare tire and alloy wheel are still in the well. If I told you that you could buy a car with a smooth, torquey DOHC inline-6, all-independent suspension, and 4-wheel disc brakes you may not guess Toyota, but this car is spec'd like an E-Type Jag. The 2.8 liter 5M-GE six sounds spectacular thanks to a new stainless steel exhaust system and with 160 horsepower pulls the relatively lightweight Supra around with genuine enthusiasm. Check out how beautifully detailed the engine bay is--it's original except for a repaint on the valve covers and basic service items. Even the new battery is from Toyota, not a parts store generic. It starts instantly (it's a Toyota after all) and runs superbly thanks to fuel injection. The automatic transmission isn't the liability that you'd expect, since it also came with 4.10 gears, making it quite punchy--especially if you set that little switch on the console to "PWR" and disengage the overdrive. The suspension is supple yet capable and it feels incredibly tight and solid going down the road. It shows about 125,000 miles, but it feels more like 25,000. I can't get over how nicely preserved this car really is. New 15-inch radials were fitted last year, so it's ready to roll. I've come to accept that cars like this are part of the hobby--you should, too. And I have to admit that the more I look, the more I like this car. I ignored it when I was 15 years old but today I can see it was a significant step forward for Japanese performance and was a cornerstone in today's hyper performance machines. The fact that it feels so contemporary and has ignored the passage of time only means that you'll have an interesting car that will be easy to own and fun to drive. And for only $19,900, how can you go wrong? If you like sports cars, you owe it to yourself to give Japan's finest a closer look. Thanks for looking!
  37. 1 point
    The engine number, if correct, implies a factory replacement engine, and NEVER assume the chassis under ANY Duesenberg is in fact a factory unit, they made frames, axles, and everything else, so if you have an engine, you have a “car” by some definition. The gentleman who built these series of bodies used factory correct chassis with numbers matching components as well as all new chassis, so one must be a detective to determine what any particular car is.......or is not. Part of the fun of Model J Duesenbergs!
  38. 1 point
    The 1933/34 club sedans here are surely classics and should be great drivers. As to the market for prewar sedans, they're a hard sell. I purchased my '29 McLaughlin-Buick close-coupled sedan because I always liked the look of them, not even thinking about making money (which I won't). The younger generation barely give it a second glance, but I enjoy it.For now that's what counts.
  39. 1 point
    I may have the reason and the occasion for the pin found in a history text book called Romantic Kent by Victor Lauriston. On page 565 the author is reciting the activities and history of the Couzens family of Chatham, Ontario. I won't bore you with the details except to say their home and factory were located in a place which has become not very attractive today. In 1910, young Jim Couzens was working for the Malcolmson coal yards. I quote from the text " Through that he got in on the ground floor of the Henry Ford new motor enterprise. He ultimately retired a millionaire, to become the Mayor of Detroit and United States Senator. If not for his Canadian birth, he would have become President of the United States." I am going to have to put his residence as a stop on our Snapper's tour when we drive around Chatham in July in our 100 year old vehicles. Regards, Gary
  40. 1 point
    https://www.google.com/search?q=roller+chain+breaker&rlz=1C1CHBF_enCA819CA819&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiymuDtzJbnAhWSu54KHSr2BWMQ_AUoAnoECA0QBA&biw=1366&bih=625 .43 second Google search.
  41. 1 point
    It's a Knight sleeve valve--if it's not smoking, it's broken. And if it's a former Aseltine car, the mechanicals are going to be right. Nobody knew more about these cars than he.
  42. 1 point
    I heard the owner got a matching jacket. He said the brand new "Hard Rock Cafe" or the "Old Men Rule" T shirts just weren't his style.
  43. 1 point
    Nice to see another 'post' Fiesta being restored. They are rarer than the hardtop version. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/stove-huggers-the-non-studebaker-forum/52229-orphan-of-the-day-05-02-1958-oldsmobile-88-fiesta?50956-Orphan-of-the-Day-05-02-1958-Oldsmobile-88-Fiesta=&highlight=fiesta Craig
  44. 1 point
    That is my problem.. Cars or the wife list...
  45. 1 point
    I suspect it's the dry air – something I doubt you get much of in Norfolk.
  46. 1 point
    29 miles for breakfast today. Supposed to be another big snow storm this coming weekend so that will bring us back to Northeast US reality.
  47. 1 point
    DB26- if your happy with your purchase.........then all is fine. Having something at 600 or nothing at 3k. Only you need to be satisfied. Enjoy it.👍
  48. 1 point
    There was a fellow in the Red Field South at Hershey before that field was eliminated in 2019 that would restore enamel signs - not inexpensive , but he did excellent work. I believe he was from either North or South Carolina but can not recall exactly. The video here of the sign restoration using an air brush and paint is good if you wish to go that route. I may add that if you do not own an air brush to spray on the paint you can also consider this: clean and prep the rusted areas as seen in the video - grind out the rust, prime the spot, use some finish body putty, reprime the area once that is done. Have patience and let the paint and putty dry ! 😣 If you want to repaint the now smooth area by hand with a brush may I suggest : ( I taught art for 35-40 years and have collected /restored my own cars, toys, etc for 50+ years) you buy a good red sable paint brush in an art store ( do not use a cheap brush that has bristles that look like a whisk broom and is found at the local dollar store) the paint you want to use you will find at an art store as well - One Shot sign lettering enamel. It is not cheap, but if you brush it on ( enough to cover but not to thick) the brush hairs will flow out smooth. This paint is used by pin stripers to pin stripe cars and sign painters to letter trucks for advertising. It is why it is called sign lettering enamel. MAKE SURE you do this in a place that is dust free so dust doesn't settle in the wet paint which takes a long time to dry. Let it dry overnight and resist the temptation to touch it to see if its dry or you will leave a finger print in the paint! Clean your brush with the recommended paint thinner completely! You can use the sign lettering enamel on the center of your restored hubcaps as well. I have done all of what I mentioned , patience and time is required. Have fun in 2020!!
  49. 1 point
    Some progress today, I’m a little limited at this time due to recent shoulder surgery. installed the chrome feature between the windshields and got rid of a bunch more Phillips screws.
  50. 1 point