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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    This is so true, I have a hot rod friend who looks at my antiques and shakes his head, saying "no one wants those original old cars anymore" and "all the people who wanted those are dead now". Somehow he misses the irony that I'm standing there, alive, and love the original cars....
  2. 3 points
    Me and my 1941 Chrysler Windsor ,picking up the Christmas tree.
  3. 3 points
    I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Out of the whole break, I only had a few hours to work on the engine. I spent that time separating the engine and transmission. First thing I did was to follow Mr Willie's advise and support the engine with an engine hoist rather than using jack stands.Once secured, I removed the bell housing cover as shown.Remove 6 bolts (2 bolts into engine block and 4 bolts into bell housing). Remove. Showing site after removal.Showing the bell housing cover removed from the engine. Next, I rotated the flywheel with a flathead screwdriver rested against 1 bell housing cover bolt reinstalled as shown to reach the other nuts.I did this to preserve any mounting surfaces. There are over 20 nuts mounted at the outer diameter. When you look closely, you can differentiate the 3 flywheel to torque converter nuts from the rest because these 3 nuts are resting directly on the flywheel, while all of the others are actually poking through a hole in the flywheel as shown. Remove.Next, remove 6 bell housing to engine block bolts as shown. I then hoisted the engine end up just a bit to get enough separation from engine and transmission to fit a wedge between them. There are 2 dowels that keep the engine and transmission aligned with each other. 1 is right on the side where the starter motor mounts to as shown.The other dowel is opposite to the 1st one as shown.I took a wedge and very carefully pried the engine off of the transmission at the dowel locations. When both dowels slide off, you now have complete separation.I also was sure to note how the flywheel was bolted to the torque converter. These 3 holes in the flywheel shown here...line up with the 4 features (2 bolts, a plug and a welded tab) shown here on the torque converter.Showing the transmission on its homemade carriage.And showing the engine on its engine stand.Overall, this task was easy.
  4. 3 points
    This past weekend I finished adjusting my carburetor float and installed it on the car. Then I installed the heat control valve between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe along with the two heat pipes going to the carburetor. I had those pipes welded shut at the ends inside the heat control valve so I should not have any heat issues related to them anyway.
  5. 3 points
    You might think it should be the painter asking where he can find them.
  6. 3 points
    It's always fun to cruise with the grandkids.
  7. 3 points
    I like that Hundredth Anniversary picture. Here's my car parked behind my twin on show day.
  8. 3 points
    Folks, very sorry things are up in the air. We hope to have everything buttoned up in the next two weeks and get all your questions answered. Sorry for the delay but we have been waiting on answers from others and I have been saddled with a medical issue the past month. We are on it strong now! There will be parking near the show site.
  9. 3 points
    Here are the official production records from Buick on that years vehicles.
  10. 3 points
    Started today, 75% there to rolling front end out from under the A as a complete unit, and sending it off to Pat for a rebuild. Once done we will do same to the rear, and with that out, replace the clutch. Start Jan 5! 🙂 Billy let me know if you hit any shows in CT!
  11. 3 points
    It is sad that people just don't take pride in their job. I am glad the motor is back home. John
  12. 3 points
    Here you go, Happy Sunday everyone the photo of the car with the hood up is a detail of a Franklin Dealers/salesman's dinner in NY City and shows a 12 cylinder Franklin prototype - that engine was supposed to go into a production line of cars that shared the same bodies etc as the 1932 series 16a Airman, but using a extended chassis to accommodate the larger engine. That didn't happen because the bank took over the Franklin company and decided a completely new car would sell better. Not a wise choice - it didn't. ( I knew a fellow who as a young man worked at and for the bank that took over the Franklin company, interesting stories he had to relate to me ) The hood on this prototype was longer then the Airman series that had the 6 cylinder engine . First car on the left is the regular Airman, compare the details of the hood ( note the number of doors in the side) with the V12 with the raised hood. Hope some of you find this interesting. Walt
  13. 2 points
    *SOLD* THIS is exactly how I like my Corvettes. Fully sorted, nicely broken-in, already pre-scuffed, and 100% ready to rock. Watch too much TV and you'd think that the only Corvette you should own is a numbers-matching car with a fresh restoration and Bloomington Gold certification, but the truth is, driving a Corvette gently is like kissing your mother--technically it's the same, but it's really not. This particular 1966 Corvette convertible comes out of long-term ownership where it has been maintained and enjoyed, but not restored. It was repainted perhaps 25 years ago in its original code 976 Nassau Blue and while it looks good in photos and from five feet away, there are plenty of blemishes and signs of use, mostly some bubbles on the cowl at the base of the windshield that are probably the result of a prep issue. If a driver-grade car isn't your thing, you can stop right here. If you like to drive however, you'll be pleased to note that the fiberglass is in excellent condition with none of the usual cracks around the headlight openings and the doors fit beautifully--I don't think it's ever been fully disassembled. Chrome is decent to very good. You won't be ashamed to be seen in this car any more than you're ashamed to be seen in jeans and a T-shirt. I believe the code 418 dark blue vinyl interior is original. It's in good shape aside from two splits in the driver's seat back, but they could probably be repaired. Or you could just throw some repro seat covers in there, it wouldn't matter. Door panels and the dash are quite good and not cracked or sun-baked, and the steering wheel is in great shape. Gauges are a little faded but they all work, including the tach with a 6500 RPM redline, which helps corroborate that this is an original L72 car (more on that in a moment). I have to admit I hate the way the Hurst shifter looks and feels, but it does work quite well when you're racking it through the gears at speed. There's an aftermarket AM/FM/cassette radio with that unusual vertical orientation and it powers a pair of speakers behind the seats, but one of the knobs is missing. Meh. Clock doesn't work, but who cares? White convertible top is in excellent condition and seals up pretty well. The engine is a great-running 427 cubic inch V8, although it is definitely NOT matching-numbers. However, it is a 3963512 big block casting, which is a later 427 or 454 block used in cars like the COPO Camaro and LS6 Chevelles, as well as a few less glamorous applications. I don't know exactly where it was born because the stamping pad numbers don't add up to anything beyond a CE--some say it's a warranty replacement block, but who knows? Again, this is NOT a matching-numbers car, so let's not worry about that esoterica here. At least it's a genuine hi-po big block and not some kind of '70s truck block. Either way, it's a fantastic runner. It wears a few markings that suggest this car was originally an L72 427/425 but I have no real proof and my only evidence is circumstantial like the tach and the ancient decals that certainly appear to be original. I do not believe it has a solid lifter camshaft anymore and I didn't bother checking carburetor or distributor numbers--it shouldn't matter on a car like this. I do know that it was rebuilt maybe 10 years ago and was just recently tuned and serviced so it runs extremely well. It starts easily, idles nicely, and man is this thing STOUT! Like most big block Corvettes, it'll drive nicely enough if you're just puttering around, but what it really wants you to do is put your foot on the floor and abuse it. The harder you drive it, the better it works. There's a fantastic whack of torque at any speed and it rips through the gears so quickly you don't really have much time to think about it. Just grab the next gear as fast as you can and hope that one hand on the wheel is enough to keep it going straight. Gear ratios in the Muncie M21 are ideal--as you clutch in the engine RPM falls to exactly the right speed to engage the next gear. It's just joyous to run through the gears. VROOOOM--shift---VROOOOOM--shift--VROOOOOM--shift--VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMM. I'm grinning just thinking about driving this car...maybe it'll be dry tomorrow... It does have manual steering and manual brakes, so man up before you call me because I'm not listening to how your wife needs it to have power steering before you can buy it. Newer Firestone radials with hubcaps, which is a look I like. Chassis is clean and not rusty, but there's a little surface scale on the frame and suspension parts and the dual exhaust system is older but without leaks. It sits right, handles well, and actually doesn't have any serious rattles, another indication of a car that hasn't been blown apart before. Pretty Corvettes with prizes are fine and that seems to be where most guys want the hobby to go. But I promise if you take this one out for a drive, you'll have more fun in 10 minutes than the guy with a trophy car has in a year. Big block 'Vettes were built for combat, not tea parties so treat this one right and make it dance. Price is a pretty reasonable $49,900 and you could drive this car home to California tomorrow. Thanks for looking!
  14. 2 points
    Not mine but I have one just like it. Great car. Have toured mine everywhere. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1923-buick-series-23-model-6-45-phaeton/
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    I always liked the Charger in the movie... I was too young to see it when it first came out, but watched it a few years later when it was on local tv. My parents got me a Kingsize Matchbox toy of a Charger, which I destroyed ( what a normal 5 year would do ). I replaced it a few years ago.
  17. 2 points
    And this....https://bringatrailer.com/2013/01/14/million-dollar-claim-the-bullitt-1968-dodge-charger/
  18. 2 points
    And this.... Who owns the charger from the movie Bullitt? The black second-gen Dodge Charger was once owned by actor Bruce Willis, who then sold it off to Jay Kay of Jamiroquai who imported it to the UK around eight years ago.Feb 12, 2018
  19. 2 points
    Well....there is THIS....https://www.carlylemotors.com/vehicle-details/1968-dodge-charger-r-t-440--bullitt-charger--coupe-eb9cd4a309244e4193d64ac1ba3ee3ec
  20. 2 points
    I read that the second Mustang was found in Mexico. It was a little more than a shell, but the found numbers on the car that matched. They also found the Charger that was used for the street scenes, and not the chase. The two Chargers were not originally black. One was Yellow, the other was B5 Blue. They were painted black for the movie. Filming chase scenes on location are difficult, setting up shots, closing streets, blocking off regular traffic, crowd control, etc. Warner Brothers wanted the chase to be filmed on the back lot, but McQueen said no , so it was filmed on the actual streets. The editing makes it look like one long chase. The film won an Oscar for editing.
  21. 2 points
    Problem is the maroon car is a open quarter sedan, and the black car here is a business coupe.
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    I don't think the Humberette held the land speed record in 1914! Hopefully, it will at least help. I had hoped it may increase the CR a little higher, every little helps. I only hit 50 pages as I 'waffle on' too much! I do attempt sometimes to make my posts a little light hearted. Thank you Mike. I am now starting to get 'Cabin Fever'. I will have a go this morning and try puffing my way up to the workshop. I really would like to see if I can make a start on machining the pistons. It is also expensive being stuck in the house with the computer - I keep buying 'engineering stuff' on eBay! Just bought a tool post grinder yesterday.
  24. 2 points
    For whatever it is worth. A few years back I picked up a 1914 Califunny porcelain plate for really cheap because it was in poor condition. I didn't (and don't) have a 1914 car, but for the price I just wanted it (a single, only pairs can be used for YOM) just to hang on a shop wall. After I straightened it a bit, I mixed model paint for color with two-ton (slow setting) clear epoxy. I used bits of window screen to fill two sizable holes (carefully cut for a tight fit), and electrical tape as a form on the bottom side. Laid the plate flat and level, painted the epoxy/paint mix carefully to the full height of the plate's surface.and allowed to set 24 hours. It took three applications. One for the near black backside. One for the background color on the front. And one white for missing portions of numbers and letters (part of the "CAL" was missing). I didn't get the color match quite right (off-red is a tough color to match), but it came out amazingly good! A couple people have seen it and remarked how nice it is and wanted to buy it. But I like seeing it whenever that shop door is open.
  25. 2 points
    Junior"CONEHEAD" from SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE?
  26. 2 points
    First drive of the year! Capitol Reef National Park.
  27. 2 points
    Buickborn - I just recently bought this car from Kentucky. Have not seen it yet in person, is still on its way to Germany, but is supposed to be driver quality only. Was on ebay but no other bid than mine. Really wondered about that. Hubcaps included but not installed. 😁 The car has its obvious flaws, but nothing that cannot be fixed, at least I hope so. 😁 Germany is surely not Buick territory, but I am just fascinated by the brands' history and styling of the 40s and 50s. But here are no high-end restored Buicks, at least I am not aware of, no market for these. Only worthy collectables here for most people are Mercedes and Porsche, nothing else. Went to a classic car seller last week and saw 5 Mercedes 300 SL gull wings and convertibles and numerous 190 SL's of 50s vintage and even a few Porsche Spyders among dozens 50-90s Porsche. Great cars, for sure, but nothing so special here. American cars of the 50s have such a huge aura and presence that is absolutely thrilling to me. Maybe that explains the interest of people outside of the US, at least mine. 😎 When I go to a car meet here e. g. with my 56 Caddy CdV, although it is in a poor condition, people are just stunned by it. When I explain its features or open the hood, people are asking 'really?' or is that a V8? People cannot believe its opulence and power. It is the star on every meet. Not a single lady not saying 'Was für ein schönes Auto!' ('what a beautiful car!') despite all of the dings and bad chrome. And it drives like a dream.... Cannot wait to drive my 53 Roadmaster Riviera again that came this week back from the paint shop. Needs reassembly now..... Sorry for contemplating, couldn't sleep.
  28. 2 points
    Yes! 1) Engine/transmission, 2) frame, and 3) battery must all be grounded together. If the negative battery cable goes to the frame, the cable from the frame to the engine/transmission must be as big and good as the negative battery cable. If the negative battery cable goes to the engine/transmission, then the cable from the engine/transmission over to the frame can be smaller but still must be really good. The body must be grounded to one of the three. Since they are all tied together with fairly big cables, it doesn't much matter which one. I don't recall where the factory body ground is on a 39 Buick, but I'll bet it runs from the firewall or cowl down to the frame.
  29. 2 points
    I knew an old-school mechanic (who was very good) who swore by the stuff, especially for cars that had sat some time.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Part no. 1860787 fits a 1959 DeSoto. It's called a Lower Rear Quarter Moulding which is somewhat misleading. I'm guessing it goes on the very rear top fin tip above the upper round taillight. There's another moulding that goes over the top of the fin and this is the one underneath.
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
    Here you go....https://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-Chrysler-Royal-Deluxe-CD-8-Coupe/303432299568?hash=item46a5f97430:g:R4MAAOSwoQdeEMSa
  34. 2 points
    DOUBLE DOWN: I'll see your 2020 and raise you. My personal goal will be 4040 miles. I'll dip into the piggy bank for gas money. Steve
  35. 2 points
    It's back on the ground now. I took photos before putting on those lovely 30 year old whitewalls and rusty 14" rallyes though When I was installing the brakes, I screwed up and installed the left and right brake adjusters on the wrong sides. I went to do a preliminary adjustment and ended up tightening the adjuster all the way in...causing me to disassemble both sides to swap them. That's what I get for not double checking. Brake and fuel lines will be here sometime mid week. In the interim, I'll bring the body back in and start getting that ready. I don't imagine it'll take long to get it cleaned up and ready for paint. The doors and fenders are in pretty good shape, with the exception of two creases in one of the doors. I have a suspicion that the fenders are "flat tops" and will need some help there. Trunk lid is nice. Hood is exceptionally nice, but I'll have to make the spring disappear on the bottom side. Maybe end of February to see some color?
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    On Friday, it took all of 6 hours to do so, as we took our time and carefully made some great progress. We determined that the hood towards the front of the car was off center by about 1/4". (Al was correct in his observation). We dropped a plumb line from the center hood hole where the hood ornament is bolted on (also measured from hood crease to hood crease at that point to be doubly sure that the hole itself was centered. We then carefully measured the space between the inside frame rails and found dead center. We then moved the hood so that everything lined up on center. The gap along the rear edge of the hood at the cowl was then even, although slightly tighter at each side - however the gap was exactly the same on each side. There is no way to correct this without welding metal most of the way across the rear edge of the hood which is not practical. We also raised the center radiator support (hood latch bolts into this) as hood was sitting a little low and front fenders did not line up until we made this adjustment. We have a little tinkering to do, but are 90% of the way. This coming week, we will fine tune everything and drill some 1/8" pilot holes under each of the three rubber angle bumpers into the front fenders and into the inner panel below. Reason: We will be removing the hood and fenders for painting and don't want to have to waste any more time on this, especially with fresh paint. In conclusion, want to say that 1953 and 1954 Buick hoods are very difficult to properly line up, as can be seen if closely looking at any cars of that vintage. Having the springs renewed was a big plus, as they now open smoothly. Before rebuilding the springs, the hood jerked back when being opened and hit the cowl or top of doors - not good. I greatly appreciate all of the helpful ideas regarding this issue and want to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions, as well as encouragement. Fred
  38. 2 points
    I trudge along with my vintage cars at various speeds. I go hard for a while. Other times progress slows down. I backed off over the holidays, spending a lot of time relaxing. I think I’m actually ready to go back to my day job! I can’t remember the last time I ever said that. I’m sort of supplying a steady drip of funds for my old cars. I don’t order all my project parts in large chunks. I try and save money where I can. I am not saving or tallying my receipts on my ‘38 revival. I’m a fool to think if I spend $20K over 10 years, it’s justified. Compared to spending $20K in two years. I can’t/won’t do that! Lol. I am fairly new to the old car hobby. I will admit that I have debated how much to spend restoring an old car compared to a realistic sell price. This thought process is a black hole to disappointment. I have a great time while out in my garage working on my old cars. I get giddy ordering new parts. Upon arrival I really enjoy installing the parts. The satisfaction of a completed well-done job is a good feeling. The resale price has become irrelevant to me. I spend what I am comfortable with. Where I’ll end up I don’t know. I do know for sure that later I’ll enjoy driving the car immensely. I am fortunate that I do have time on my side. I’ll be 49 in 2020. Hopefully I’ll have quite a good run to enjoy the hobby.
  39. 2 points
    This one about says it all... (except... owned since High School)
  40. 2 points
    Me in my first 1950 Buick in 1955 and beside the present one on the way to BCA Nationals in 2012' Ben
  41. 2 points
    I've taken a lot of pictures of other people when I was our region's newsletter editor; but I found one of myself. The girl is my cousin. The car shown is my only pre-war car:
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Just wanted to provide an update on my 37. I ended up completely re-wiring my headlights, parking lights, taillights & brake lights. Found all kinds of things which could have been contributing to my problems. All my exterior lights are now working properly. I just got the windshield wipers (vacuum motors) working today. That completes my inspection checklist so I can now get it titled & registered which I plan to do tomorrow. I wanted to thank everyone for their advice, it was very helpful in resolving my electrical issues. Thanks again. Larry
  44. 1 point
    Sure did. Figured the plain white was just too... plain. Still a bit to do yet. Phil
  45. 1 point
    My '18 Buick has one like that on the tail light
  46. 1 point
    I wish I had taken a picture of the inside of the oil pan that came off my RUNNING Pierce-Arrow, it would have converted you to a believer in the importance of cleaning them out. It had 3/4” of gunk which blocked at least 70% of the oil pickup screen. Mind you, think about a RUNNING AND DRIVING CAR WITHOUT OIL.... Good work takes patience but bad work costs money.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Update time 🤷🏽‍♂️? So, I've grown ridiculously tired of starring at the car in its current form, so I started working on it today! Here's a Parts list of what's going on. Ported +1 655 with comp springs HE341 w/ 4 inch to 3 inch downpipe Electric exhaust cutout 2.5 inch exhaust after cutout with Magnaflow cat and muffler TU 4 puck purple plate clutch Autopilot V2 air management Poly Bushing sway bar Poly Bushing control arm bushings Moog ball joints New inner and outer tire rod ends New power steering pump Known good rack New oil pump New piston rings New rod and main bearings New timing belt 2 Soundqubed hds2 10 inch woofers .. I'm sure I'm forgetting some other things 🤷🏽‍♂️... Right now I'm in the process of stripping down the engine bay so I can paint it, the engine, and the suspension parts. From there I plan on working on the suspension and engine in the shed and getting everything back in the car. I would LOVE to have the car back together and reliable by the beginning of March, I just have to apply myself. I hope you guys are looking forward to some major progress finally happening, because IT'S.. ABOUT.. TO.. GO.. DOWN!!!
  50. 1 point
    Part Number 747-001 that I ordered from Auto Zone is the perfect replacement for the top pull down motor housing. It does not come with the plastic gear (my cousin made me an aluminum gear about 20 years ago to replace it with so I didn't need one). The picture shows the clear plastic but mine arrived as the durable black plastic newer type one. Now the pull down feels really strong and works great again.