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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    What's more rare for a 1940 than year only wheels, transmission, belt line trim, glove box doors without dents, interior windshield garnish molding? Rocker trim for both sides - Voila' perfect fit, perfect shape, and proper for this body style:
  2. 5 points
    Today I finished the plating of the last pieces for The back of my combination switch. Did some copper plating and zinc plating. I’ll get my levers plated soon.
  3. 4 points
    Don't forget Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth who learned to drive and maintain military trucks during WWII. She apparently learned more than to differentiate between a fan belt and a spark plug. From The History Channel: "After months of begging her father to let his heir pitch in, Elizabeth—then an 18-year-old princess—joined the Women’s Auxiliary Territorial Service during World War II. Known as Second Subaltern Elizabeth Windsor, she donned a pair of coveralls and trained in London as a mechanic and military truck driver. The queen remains the only female member of the royal family to have entered the armed forces and is the only living head of state who served in World War II." I looked at other sources that confirmed her service. I've read in the past that the Queen (then Princess) drove an ambulance during the days and nights of the London Blitz. New Year's Cheers, Grog
  4. 4 points
    While not entirely based in fact, the story told when folks ask how I moved from New Jersey to New Orleans, here it is: Dregs of a difficult winter in New Jersey, and taking vacation from my job, commuting into mid-town Manhattan, and my apartment was being renovated by the new owner: So, not having any storage available, I piled everything I owned into my '64 Valiant Station Wagon. Ready to leave, I realized that my snow shovel was still leaning against the car. Having no more room inside, I tied it to the roof rack. I drove south to escape the latest round of winter weather, and just continued down I-95, I-85, I-65, then west on I-10. I stopped for gas in New Orleans, and the station attendant, while topping off the tank, cleaning the windshield, and checking the oil (remember those days?), asked: Hey Mister, what's that thing on your roof? I knew I had found my new home !
  5. 4 points
    I got the semi-barrel plater done and it worked pretty well. I need to work on the dangler as it spent too much time plating itself (and creating general electrolytic havoc) instead of maintaining contact with the parts to be plated. I have some ideas and I think this will be pretty easy to fix. I also want to look at increasing the rotation speed. The bbq rotisserie motor I got doesn't have a speed control and it goes really slow. The parts tend to stick together and make their way to near the top before gravity takes over and they fall to the bottom. I need to get a little more tumble action. All that said, I put 25 nuts/bolts in there and 40 minutes later had a nice plate. I still have to clean each one before plating and they need a quick touch-up on a soft wire wheel after to get the nice shine, but that's a heck of a lots less work than wiring each one not too mention I could only plate 5 things at a time before.
  6. 4 points
    When my neighbor's Prius makes the list of collectables, I'm jumping off a bridge. 😄
  7. 3 points
    . 1939 Buick Century Sport Coupe. Black with grey interior. Restored around 1996 and has less than 3000 miles since then. Loaded. Side mounts, front fender marker lights, fog lights, sun visor, spot lights, push button radio, heater and rarest of all stream board running board option. About the only thing I have done is have the steering wheel redone. I have owned it since 2010 and have the history back to the restoration which was done in Milwaukee. Note .....dash picture was taken with steering wheel before it was redone. 512-869-5114 $28,000 If there is no interest here it will go to Hemmings and I am afraid it will get shipped out of the US
  8. 3 points
    Below is the preview for the wall display I ordered from Valley Designs ND. I sent them an Adobe Illustrator file of a graphic I had made of The Aqua Zephyr a couple of years ago. This display won't have the 3-D look of Valley Designs ND's other products, but I think this design will work well, especially with the turquoise LED lights they are putting in it. I will post pictures of the actual wall display once it is received and hung in either my garage or one of my rooms in the house (if mama will let me hang it in the house!) Thanks to @Craig Balzer for sharing his Christmas gift with us. You inspired me to get one too!
  9. 3 points
    Just because I hope to be without Reatta sometime this year (2020) I am staying on the forum. There is one more Reatta on my bucket list, eventually I just have to experience owning a select 60. The red and white color scheme may be the coolest Reatta if not coolest car ever. You rarely see them unless your at a Reatta meet or a very large car show but the guys that built this car really got it right. For you 60 owners, please post photos on this thread.
  10. 3 points
    Nurses on the frontline: Photos celebrate the brave women who trained in mechanics, drove tanks and cared for wounded soldiers on the battlefields of WWI and WWII Fascinating photographs documented the heroics of the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry (FANY) Founded in 1907, the all-women Corps initially provided frontline nursing support during the First World War Role expanded ahead of the Second World War and FANYs served as drivers, cooks and encryption specialists
  11. 3 points
    Thanks. All good and working with the old accelerator pump. Check ball definitely in there. Two nice streams of fuel now and car starts on first crank.
  12. 3 points
    After the rear brake shields were ready, it was time to modify the dies to press the front shields. At first, I was thinking that the shape is easy; well it was the case to do the separate male insert. The female job was not that easy. The almost rectangular cavity could be milled, but the half round one was more difficult to get. Milling was not an option, at least not with my basic machine. I removed almost all the metal with grinding and finished it with a hand tool, shaving the brass until the insert was flush with the flat surface. The male insert was then attached to the other die with a screw. Then came the moment of truth: will the brass be torn as the cavity is rather deep? Nothing bad happened at mid way, but at the end it was torn at the end of the cavity. To repair it, I cut the damaged spot, pressed a bit brass, adjusted and silver soldered it. This repair took much more time than pressing the shield! Now, I have to do the second one; most probably the same damage will occur; then I can show with a picture or two what I intended to explain.
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
  15. 3 points
    My two cents! This is a large inventory business for sale and would be impossible to give an inventory related to the price on this forum. So in this case you call or better yet have a face to face meeting and then a tour of the inventory. I do not think his inventory consists of a 4X8 box trailer behind a pickup headed for a swap meet that is easily valued. So lets get serious and call the man if you are interested and stop kicking tires please. Sorry for the meltdown PS I do not think you will need a ticket to Nigeria. Joe
  16. 3 points
    Started in January with 50.584 miles. Reached 52.462 miles these days. 1.878 miles in 2019.
  17. 2 points
    I've been on the fence about selling this for some time and have come to realize that to get the 1931-1933 Auburn I want, we are going to have to part ways. She is pretty sexy to just look at sitting in the garage. Probably. not a whole lot of original 36 Cord Phaeton hot rods from the 40's or early 50's still out there. Very old (50's?) black enamel repaint over the original cigarette cream finish and red tuck and roll Vinyl done very much to the original pattern. Still in good shape. Pretty cool with a full dressed 40's Caddy flathead with Edmunds intake and Heads. Pipes were added at some point from a 37 Supercharged 810 and the builder utilized them running the Caddy exhaust through them. I'm sure you would draw quite a crowd if you pulled up in this at the next vintage rod run. Pretty much largely untouched since the 60's or maybe even 50's. It's been in storage in a dry garage on the edge of the California Desert for nearly 40 years before I bought it and the last 7 or so in my heated garage. Definitely looks old. No fake patina here. Like a barn find it's been sitting. I was collecting parts to restore it, but have been told by more than a few to leave it a vintage rod. I'll include those parts in the sale. it's a long list of mechanical and lots of rechromed extra Cord parts. Some hard to find. Cosmetically it's very stock except the cowl vents were closed and filled. (they are still there) Not sure if they are leaded or not. I do have a mint pair of phaeton vents I'll include just in case. The body overall is very nice with no major rust as you would expect from a car that sat in a garage in the desert. Cosmetically it's complete. No missing cord parts. The complete top is still folded under the smooth tonneau. (yup they had a full disappearing top)Suicide doors with Huge hidden hinges that open and close smoothly. It will need a serious mechanical overhaul to be put on the road. It's not running and has at a minimum some stuck valves. It was running when put in storage but that was 45 years ago so of little consequence now. I oiled the cylinders but as with these Caddy flatheads the valves are so high in the block they don't get soaked. I do have a clear title for it. Really a cool car whether you want to restore it, keep it a real vintage hot rod, or run it as a rod for a while , while you collect the rest of the parts to put it back to original.If anyone has any history on it, I would love to hear about it.Asking $65,000 for everything. Will consider trades for a 31-33 Open Auburn, or possibly late 1920's -early 1930's Packard or similar Open car in good condition, needing some work is fine.
  18. 2 points
    For folks that just like driving an old car all the time I would get this just to drive back and forth to work. Same as the 53 four door Plymouth I bought for dirt cheap and the 63 dodge 880. Nothing special. Will never see a car show. But i get to drive an old car doing everyday things which for me is the enjoyment of owning them. I am still on the look out for a mid 50's Desoto and if it is a 4 door I can drive to work once a week it would suit me fine. I get tons of smiles and waves the entire 30 mile ride each way so people who never get to see old cars doing what they should be doing get enjoyment from them as well.
  19. 2 points
    We all have an opinion as to what we like. I don't like the chrome plated wheels at all, if they were painted it would not make the plated tread cover on the spare tires seem so bold against the white wall tires. To much green for me - needs black leather upholstery . The Pilot ray lights - a pair is one to many ( you have a par of headlamps, pair of parking lamps pair of spot lamps, and finally a pair of driving lights - yikes , turn them all on at once and you will melt the battery into a puddle under the car) I am not fond of the basket weave stone guard that you see on just about every restored car from Pontiacs to Packards - the shutters are vertical and functional, that vertical set of shutters makes the radiator shell shape seem to have presence as a styling feature, the basket weave acts like a wall and stops your eye from flowing to the styling/design of the rest of the car - it acts like a tombstone. I own a 1930 Packard and have a stone guard on it but it is all vertical thin bars and it compliments the styling, and is not in competition with the design. If you don't like Pilot Ray lights nor Trippe lamps which everything has, try to find/go with what Packard offered in its accessory catalog : Saf-de-Lites. They are a bit different but uniquely so and if Packard thought they looked good enough to recommend them , then perhaps they should be considered. Most people never heard of them or know what they are. It helps to have access to the factory publications of the era of the car, fortunately I have collected for many decades and have most if not all of the Packard accessory catalogs, lists, bulletins from about 1922 to 1942 to refer to.
  20. 2 points
    Matt - appreciate the referral for JDL logistics. They got back to me right away and seem reasonable. For all to know they can pick up your car when needed and deliver when needed. Any season and do closed or open delivery. Happy New Year all
  21. 2 points
    The phone number. A 4747 has no need for breakdown insurance. Maybe its a subliminal message.
  22. 2 points
    GM made a punch tool with a cup shaped tip that fit the accelerator check ball. Giving it a light rap will "seat" the ball by reshaping the carb body where it seals (its just soft potmetal, the ball is steel). You could probably make one. Maybe. more importantly, would be making sure the check ball is in there. Bernie
  23. 2 points
    Today was one of those days that started slow expecting to hear from my one son who asked if I would be available to help him with some construction in his house. By 1 pm decided to drive over and found him not really needing my help so after a visit went home and into the garage. With lot's of sorting and clean up I went at the shelves by the door. I decided the best way was to deconstruct things and made a shelf for a stereo sitting not used in the house. Music works for me and this unit should provide some quality sound with the spare cabinet speakers I have downstairs and bring out. I have some plastic covering it to keep the dust off the unit. After cleaning up the drill press and wire wheel moved on back to the bench that has been cluttered up for way too long. Low and behold, under that pile was the stereo car radio my wife bought for me which I put in my '67 Mustang while we dated. I hooked up some speakers that were from another car radio I used in the garage before and... it came to life! You get that I don't throw anything out right... 😵 Then the next thing I find is my CB radio. I will have to see if I still have the antenna before I hook it up but know the bracket for the under the dash mounting is still in the Special yet. Have much to do yet but making some headway... Will be dropping the rim and tire off to my mechanic tomorrow to have mounted and also bring another rim with an old tire on it to have taken off. A few more 8 hours evenings and who knows, I might be able to finish cleaning up the front frame and putting in the transmission soon.
  24. 2 points
    But then you would have to join the ACDP club.
  25. 2 points
    Went through this on both a 55 and a 56. The arrow above is the correct side where the heat chamber is. If you stand at the passenger fender facing the passenger bank of the engine, the port that the carbs heat pipe plugs into is almost directly behind the leftmost (nearest the firewall) bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Now - assuming all the passenger side 56 manifold designs are the same for this feature, just feel around the back left side of the manifold and you should feel a small pipe about 1/8-1/4 inch sticking out. I believe the heat passage is fully cast into the 56 manifold. The chamber does not allow exhaust gas to enter, rather pulls air across some risers cast inside the manifold that act as a heat exchanger. On the 55 manifold (mine at least - early 55), there was a metal plate riveted over the top of the chamber which disintegrated over time. WIth that plate gone you could see the inside the chamber = the cast "risers" that the outside air was pulled across to warm the outside air to the choke. Where the pipe is in your photograph looks more like something that was drilled pr a casting hole to accommodate the pipe. On my 55 manifold, since the heat exchanger was useless without a cover and the nipple to attach the heat tube to also gone, a heat stove "kit" was installed into the manifold - basically a bolt that has about 1/4 - 1/2 inch hollowed out in it that threads and seals into a hold drilled into and through one wall of the manifold. The carb heat tube sits inside that hollowed out bolt section. Not original but worked great and the choke opened up quick. No running issues. So the way the heat tube is sitting in your original picture reminded me of that. The heat tube routes from the carburetor alongside the inside back of the valve cover, follows the block down near the oil pressure line and connects unseen behind the exhaust manifold. When I switched to the 56 motor I made it a point to remove my earlier fix and return it to proper configuration. Looks better too. Pictures below courtesy of eBay. Look to far left of the manifold you can see the pipe sticking out. The hole in the middle near that square feature below looks like where your inlet pipe is setting. The car was just running today so its uncovered and accessible - could probably snap a pic if you really need it. Hope this helps.
  26. 2 points
    Some progress today, I’m a little limited at this time due to recent shoulder surgery. installed the chrome feature between the windshields and got rid of a bunch more Phillips screws.
  27. 2 points
    In the interest of keeping moving forward, I got back on the oil sight gauge project. For those who do not have a car with a dash mounted oil gauge, you don't know the fun that you are missing out on. The oil line coming off the oil pump has two sections of tubing before it gets to the back side of the dash unit. It is the same thing from the back side of the dash unit going back to the side of the oil pan. There are two tubes that run from the firewall to the dash panel and they are of different size. The line coming off the oil pump is the larger size. I have posted two photos of the work that I have recently done with the hex nuts and washers to improve the re-assembly process. The round disc is the backing plate for the gauge housing. The lines coming into the housing are vertical and the photo shows how things look on the back side of the dash panel with everything in place. When I removed everything was when I found out just how thin those hex nuts really were. They were .097" thick and an open end wrench would just barely latch onto then. I made two new ones for that application and made them .250" thick. There is more than adequate space to allow for the extra thickness and the wrench will not have any problem holding onto things. A person has to start with the top line to be able to put things back together. The second photo shows the position of the lines coming through the firewall - horizontal. I remade those hex nuts also because of the extremely thin condition. I was barely able to get a hold of them with an end wrench. I fixed that problem like I did on the other hex nuts. The lines have been cleaned up and blown out with high pressure solvent and awaiting polishing out with Brasso and 0000 steel wool. We have had great weather up until Christmas day and then it has gone south in a few hours. I am thankful for getting done what I have been able to do up to this point. I picked up the headlight buckets and forks from the paint shop on Friday and I will post photos of that project as things move along. One thing that should be mentioned here is that there is somewhere between 18 and 24 inches between the back side of the firewall and the back side of the dash board for the oil lines to do their positional changing in. I used the threaded bolt remains for illustration purposes only. Barbara and I want to wish everyone a Very Happy New Year. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  28. 2 points
    Good day. I was gonna start a new thread, but found this one... Recently I was doing some 'housekeeping' and came across a couple 'newsletters' that I created a number of years ago for an on-line model car discussion group on Yahoo groups (ModelCarsUnlimited MCU). My son got into building models, and of course, I (ahem) supported the hobby by also getting involved. Although I built a number of different models, since I owned a '64 1:1 scale model, I focused on the Riviera. The newsletter didn't last too long... Anyway, for what it's worth, a couple BROoM Sweeps, and a couple 1:24 builds... The blue model was handpainted sometime in/around 1984 when AMT re-released the '65. The other two built just past the turnoff the century hopefully speak for themselves...😊 Later, Mike Swick Edmonton, AB
  29. 2 points
    I removed the decayed element from my 41 twin carb century which was not metallic but more like a natural material. I bought a roll of 3/8 inch thick air filtration material for motorcycles that was wide enough to stack up inside the filter can. I think I made 3 or four circles. Did not use any oil as the washable element does not require it.
  30. 2 points
    Today, I spend with completing the mock-up (more or less 😉). It is a bit difficult to get the right form of the seats, only reference I have are the pictures of Roger Weiss's car, and a sales catalog picture. I made it with cheap plywood, leftover slats and some stiff paper (its floor protecting paper for painting walls etc., cheap and plentiful available). Side view of toneau seat Inside view of mock up construction Top view of toneau seat mock up. Regards, Harm
  31. 2 points
    A very mild stretch of winter without snow and salted roads let us drive our '39 Century on Boxing Day. We traveled out to a fishing village of Erieau, which is a summer destination but not for our Snapper's Tour next July. Too busy, too many other interesting stops, we cannot fit it in to the list of activities. Here is a photo of our car on the pier with unfrozen Lake Erie as the background, the second snap is the pier last winter. Regards, Gary
  32. 2 points
    Interesting story...Anyway, you certainly had no trouble to travel with that light vehicle on the trailer, especially traveling so many miles. We had more difficulties when my '72 de Ville was transported from the customs in Zurich to Bienne (about 100 miles) because the car was a tad too far back, plus the weight from the spare parts in the trunk! At more than 40 MPH, the trailer began to dance...
  33. 2 points
    I had to repaint my motor after changing the water pump. The motor was green so I figured it was time to go back to silver. If I do this again I think it would be easier to pull the motor
  34. 1 point
    The next step was to get an exact measurement for the diameter of the saddle. I started by turning a piece of aluminum to 1.850 - the measurement I aimed for in boring it. It slipped right in but I had the feeling it was just a very small bit loose. The bearing will be held in place by a special bolt, under tension so it will press against the saddle. If the measurements aren't perfect the hole in the center will be slightly off. To test this I made a test bolt from a piece of 1/2-20 threaded rod. Screwed it in and tightened it against the test bearing. It wasn't bad but under tension there was a slight drag in turning the boring bar passing through it. My guess was that it was about .002 small but discovered I was out of 2" aluminum bar to make another one. So, I ground some flats on the piece of bronze that will be the bearing. These are for registration purposes. They will disappear when the piece is turned. And in rummaging around, I found another piece of aluminum with a 3/4 reamed hole in the center so I turned that one to 1.852 - I was aiming for 1.853 (adding .0015 to the radius). I tried it in any case ... And it was perfect. Tightening the bolt has no effect on the bar...so, I guess my boring was fairly accurate given that I had to make the measuring tool to do it. I can now proceed with the split bearing but that will tie up the milling machine and I have a small job to do for the foundry next door that I need the mill for so I dare not set up a fussy job before the tool I need comes in. Thankfully, that should be tomorrow.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    "We thought you wouldn't mind if we posed by your car after we found our ball."
  37. 1 point
    I just learned that the BCA Bugle will have a Reatta feature in the March issue.
  38. 1 point
    I paid under $2k for my 81 running and driving from an elderly lady who was hanging up the keys, besides a small dent it’s in excellent shape and I’m into it less than $2k and that was to fix all the little things with it down to the ac. The FS I’m going to be in about $2k to get it going but I did get it for free. I still will have to do paint and a headliner. But I got it for free so I’ll be into both about the same amount of $.
  39. 1 point
    Nice find on that DRT-08. As many said hard to find especially with the small accelerator pump. Good luck
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    checkmate..... The link you provided to Craigs List is your link to manage your listing. You are the only one who can access that link. Impossible for anyone here to view your listing...... Just FYI..... Jim
  42. 1 point
    1911 Reeves Octoauto...I'd be one of those people who would buy it...in 1911 dollars today I could actually (probably) afford it as well!
  43. 1 point
    My father was big into flatheads since he was a teen growing up in Michigan. I sold a 50 Shoebox and at least 4 Flathead engines. If you wind up needing Flathead parts, let me know. A young man near Houston bought all the parts and the car and he has rebuilt a couple cars of the era. He has some spare parts.
  44. 1 point
    All the scammer wanted was your email reply and the digital source of your email. They got it. ALL people just need to ignore what they think is a scam. Let the scammer sit alone and neglected. I know some people respond to the scammer telling them how smart they were at catching their attempt, not a good idea. But the nature of people is not to just walk away. That's what the scammer relies on. One can use all the legal resources available to fight a crook, but legal resources are not as extensive as a crook's. People have been getting swindled for thousands of years. It takes two in a phishing instance. Just curious, were you a serious buyer with the 27K on hand when you replied? I bet the scammer could tell me. When I was a kid my grandfather told me "Don't flirt with a rattle snake". He also taught me how to slither a bit, as well. Just so's I knew where he was coming from. Bernie
  45. 1 point
    AussieBuick, Yes I used a 30% Purple Power and water solution in my ultrasonic. I also used some fine steel wool on a couple tough spots on the rotating shafts after cleaning them. The purple power did a nice job on the bakelite and copper pieces.
  46. 1 point
    I have a small collection of models that give me joy. Merry Christmas to all!
  47. 1 point
    Well stated Matt! Once well sorted you have to drive the cars no matter how many cylinders it has! Just starting it up and letting it idle to run does not do it any good; just gets you disgusted later on when it won't run properly due to neglect! Use it or loose it. Local stop and go short trips are ok but the cars need to be driven at a reasonable higher speed to get the whole system warmed up, let the spark plugs burn clean ( ie the carbon from the extra gasoline when first started up) etc. I totally agree that you have to take the time and spend the $ to get it correctly sorted by a competent person who knows what they are doing!
  48. 1 point
    Great part of the automotive hobby is all the miniatures that allow us to have a collection of our favorite makes and models. These two cars were from Christmas 1963 when I got a Marx race car set. I still have the race car set and the box it came in.
  49. 1 point
    Hans, I have an Autolite 1958 catalog and an AC 1951 catalog.They both have crossover information but neither references an AC G10. The AC catalog lists AC86 for 1930 Essex. That's an 18mm standard reach plug, Fairly hot. Alternatives are Champion C7, Autolite B-9.
  50. 1 point
    Nice work Ed! I only have the one model of a Riv here is a pic. I know its not Riviera, Not even close, but here are some pics of a model I have been working on Recently. It is nowhere near finished, the scale is 1/6th so it is quite large. The figure is 12" tall! (sorry for the off topic post!)