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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    There are sometimes parts I don't know how to begin them. The knuckles are a good example. I did first the shafts but I had to modify my plan: the first idea was to have "bearings" in steel as large as possible therefore the hub would be rotating over the fixed very large shaft. This solution is not at all practical as I could not take easily the drum from the model. Consequently, I did 2 shafts in mild steel and "bearings" in brass pressed into the hubs. The shafts will then be silver soldered into the knuckles. I then took the largest bit of brass I had, trying to machine all the needed details out of it. Unfortunately, I discovered that the bit is not thick enough! Therefore the attaching channel for the steering knuckle arm will be a separate element silver soldered to the main part. But how to begin? Drill the hole to attach the shaft or drill the holes for the knuckle pin? I opted for the second possibility with the hope that the hole for the shaft will be at the correct angle to have the front wheel with a very slight positive camber. As it can be seen on the picture (this time with the big quarter), there is still a lot to do! When I began the wheels, I thought that I would need months to complete them. In fact, the job went much quicker than that. This is quite the opposite with the knuckles, they are still in fabrication. During milling, I suspect that the milling bit was not tight enough and went down. The result: a scraped part which can be seen on the left on the third picture. As you may see, there is still some work till completion!
  2. 4 points
    I totally agree with this. When I was a young man, about 50 years ago, I worked at a garage that had a fully equipped automotive machine shop. We could grind cranks, bore blocks, do valve jobs.... simply put we could do everything that needed to be done to an engine to rebuild it. Still with all the automotive machine shop equipment it was not uncommon for us to do an in-the-car overhaul of an engine. Usually in-the-car overhauls were done on older vehicles for people that might have limited ability to pay and the owner of the garage was trying to keep the cost down for them. Or maybe the car wasn't worth spending the money for a full overhaul. We would pull the oil pan, sometimes having to jack the motor up to get the pan off. We would remove the head and do a valve job on it. We honed the cylinders to get them straight and break the glaze and installed new rings - oversize rings if needed. We had a ring grinder to fit the rings in the bore instead of filing them by hand. It looked like a tuna can with a hand crank on the side and a small grinding wheel sticking out the top. When we got done with an in-the-car overhaul the owner could get a lot more miles out of an old car without having spent a lot of money on it compared to doing a full engine overhaul that requires pulling the engine out and tearing it all the way down. I wouldn't call that half-assed if it got an old car back on the road that might otherwise have been left sitting in the driveway due to the owners lack of funds to do a full overhaul.
  3. 3 points
    For sale. 1932 Chevrolet Confederate deluxe roadster. Dual side mounts and rumble seat. Body and sheet metal off frame. Rolling chassis First photo shows it the day I bought it in 2015. 2nd photo is of the restored chassis and the 3rd photo shows the body after walnut shell blasting. I then put a coat of epoxy primer on the body to protect it. The car was imported from Argentina in 1984. I'm sure it was to get the body only. Someone did a very slipshod attempt to convert the chassis to left-hand drive.The restoration has been re-started to correct everything done incorrectly. The chassis is now done correctly and is complete. Recored radiator by Kirby's in Ft Worth. Correct '32 engine (had '34 engine when purchased) Head repaired properly. Bob Marx rebuilt rocker arm assemblies. Engine lower end looked good so I left it alone. Rebuilt starter and generator. Rebuilt clutch and pressure plate. Correct steering gear finally found. Brakes completely redone. Every bearing, seal and bushing in chassis done. Double sealed bearings in rear end and axle vented. Correct spring shackles all around. Gas tank cleaned. Mechanical fuel pump works fine but 6-volt electrical fuel pump added for priming. Improved modern sealed-bearing water pump. Chassis and all components sand blasted, primed and painted black single stage acrylic enamel. 6 wheels sand blasted and powder coated bright red. Firestone WWW tires look good. Not sure about their age. Body is truly excellent with really good original wood. Body has been walnut-shell blasted and epoxy primered. No wood replacement needed. Sheet metal (all 4 fenders, running board splash aprons, front and rear splash aprons, and hood) are very nice. Running boards are straight. All side mount hardware present. Upholstery available for patterns. I was planning to use LeBarron-Bonney, but now that they have gone belly-up, I'm not sure of the next move. New wood for the top bows from Classic Wood Products in N.C. included. Original wood still in good shape on top bows, but I felt I should go with new. All seat springs with car. Most chrome redone, but I consider it driver quality. All complete and very straight. This whole project is a jig-saw puzzle right now, but if you know '32 Confererates, you can wind up with a pretty nice car. I have come to the conclusion that I can not physically finish it. I paid way too much for the car originally because I didn't know enough about '32 Chevrolets to recognize how badly the "restoration" had been botched. I now have about $30,000 in it. I'll sell it as is for $12,000 Plenty of pictures available. E-mail me at studebaker4829@live.com My phone is 318-382-3337. I seldom answer calls from numbers I don't recognize (too many robo calls and telemarketers out there), so leave a message and I'll call back. Come inspect the car in person. It is located about 10 miles east of Shreveport, Louisiana. Thanks for reading all this.
  4. 3 points
    Merry Christmas Everyone! 2019 was a great year to be a Riviera owner! Hopefully 2020 will be just as good. I am thankful to be counted amongst such an august group of people!
  5. 3 points
    Being that it was my first National and timidly taking the car knowing full well she was well, what she was (not restored or preserved some would say well...) it was however not the end of the world to have record (a slightly over exposed picture) of being involved with an event the size it was. I understood being a non-judged event some who participate in having their cars judged were disappointed but with what, almost 1,000 cars of all ages, conditions and the Buick Heritage collection there... I came away inspired to continue keeping my cars. Sadly, shortly after that event I lost the brakes on the Special and with a leaky torque ball seal and life generally keeping me distracted, I let her sit till three years ago. Having her back on the road with mechanical issues addressed and attending various local cruise-ins and organised car shows gaining support for what she is, I look forward to driving her to the National in Strongsville next July! The fact I have had support here on the Forums along the way has been one of my best investments in time and effort! This is a big hobby with a spot for all to enjoy and I'm going to do just that. I've told her story here on my thread plenty but will enjoy telling it again in Strongsville. I think even my wife might get to enjoy telling her side too once we are there... 😍
  6. 3 points
    Rich on the show is my father. A couple years ago producers from the show contacted my father. On the day they aired the program it was an all day event. Our whole family was on location, but they chose to interview only one person. They film hours and hours of everything and anything then go back to edit. They did confirm that the car was the Madam X from the serial numbers. The show is very put on. They were telling my father what deals to accept and which ones to not. As for the Madame X - it was over a year before they called my father with the 90,000 deal. When the two Mikes are driving away debating if they want the car. Well that didn't happen like that. When they call my father and make that deal, that too is scripted. They had already picked the car up. What really happened is the show found a buyer who would offer them 100k+ for the car. They made the deal in order to make a profit. My father made that deal for my grandmother. She's in her 80s now and living on social security. My grandfather loved his cars, but never above his family. He'd be proud that his wife has a money in savings rather than in a garage she can't even walk to.
  7. 3 points
    Completely assembled, glued, and screwed the whole wood framing together. Fit all the sheet metal, including the roof, in place and checked fit of everything thing. All is good so all the sheet met came back off and work will start on all the panels while they’re off the frame. I will put the whole cab back together in a fully painted state rather than assemble it then paint it. After my Christmas break, I’ll be starting on the conversion of the 37’ rear to fit this chassis along with the gear change to 3.55. There is a fair amount of mechanical work to the whole change and it will be a little off my usual but hopefully will turn out all right. Will also start assembling the chassis and adding the hydraulic Huck backing plates to the front spindles. Seeing that the owners intentions is to drive this truck a lot, at higher speeds, I feel much better knowing the cab structure will be solid and much safer than it was. Along with the addition of seat/shoulder belts, all new safety glass, and a double reservoir hydraulic brake system, a fresh motor and updated differential should make this a really nice, but safe driving 34’ pickup without changing the original look.
  8. 3 points
    The first water pump was too large and I failed to take into consideration the sub-frame that holds the engine. As it was it was impossible to attach the water lines. The second pump solved those problems but I really don't like the welding. You almost never see welding of any kind on a brass car (I've only seen it once)...and certainly not aluminum welding. Welding was known but it doesn't become a feature of car manufacture until much later. There was also some minor evidence of leaking a little where the parts were screwed together. I'm not making it all over again, just the front and back plates which will now be cast so they can't possibly leak. Really, I only need the back plate but in order to make certain the holes for the screws that hold it together line up perfectly I want to drill both plates together. I should have done this the first time around but a configuration that will work using castings only occurred to me a few days ago. Having invested so much time in this I'm determined to get it to the point where I don't have any apologies to make.
  9. 3 points
    Among My long time dream cars is the 1958 Imperial convertible. I actually bought one several years ago, only to have the seller reneg on the deal after receiving my check.
  10. 3 points
    Today, Tuesday, started with my morning coffee thinking it would be a good day to head into the garage and either finish cleaning up the Limited rim or tackling the strapping for the ceiling when... a call changed those thoughts. A customer wondered if I would be able to deal with her leaves as I wasn't able to get to it before the 10 inch snow fall and then the rain we received in the last two weeks. Fully dressed for the cold proceeded to grab my lunch, load up the rider and a gas can to spend the afternoon. Crazy to think in December conditions would be such that I would have to do a job this late in the year. Hey, it's another buck in the Limited refurbish. 🙌 Last night I spent time going through a cabinet and found this picture. Obviously it was at the National Meet in Flint, Mi with my youngest son. I wasn't really happy with the way the shot turned out and was told they only had the one photo opportunity so accepted it for what it was and put it away in the cabinet. To give credit where credit is due this was done by: Events Photos by Mar-E-Lynn The Clown on the day I registered. That event was magnificent and the first National the car had ever been to being so close to me logistically. Sadly I left my camera charger at home and the battery died so something like this means so much more. However, with a little work...
  11. 3 points
    Back to the dream car - nostalgia wins out and I guess it would be a 1933 Pierce Arrow Model 836 like my dad bought in 1960. If I remember correctly Ed said the 836 was nowhere near the car the V-12's were. My dad drove it over to Bernie Weiss' house when we first got it and Bernie said the same thing - "Jim - you should have bought a 12 - it's a lot more car." On the other hand I am sure the partial engine rebuild done in one stall of o 2 car unheated garage in January and February of a Rochester NY winter was a lot easier on the 8 than on a 12. I remember Ed did a comparison of the 31 and 32 Pierce 8's - would love to know how the 33 compares. From a practical standpoint a 31 Model "A" sport coupe like my first car would be more practical - I can fix almost anything blindfolded on that.
  12. 3 points
    Have always been in love with the 46-54 mopars. Best bang for the buck today for anyone wanting to get into the "old car" hobby. Parts are easy, rock solid dependable. I keep seeing them much cheaper then this and it hard not to buy them. My survivor 53 Cranbrook was just 1700 bucks and I use it to get to work 3 days a week just because I love driving old cars.
  13. 3 points
    Today I made some progress, assembled and glued the front seat. Also managed to put one back panel in (tomorrow the second one, I ran out of the right glue). The slope of the side boards (leaning outwards) = 84 degrees. The slope of the back panel starts with 72 degrees, increasing to the top to 86 degrees. I mounted the side panels with a kind of pin in hole connection, made by a long groove in the seat frame and also a long groove in the side panel (see pictures), both will be connected with a strip of ash. Two long screws to secure everything from moving during the setting of the glue, and I have a very sturdy seat. Grove and wooden strip ( router got a bit offline) Wooden strip glues in groove Groove in bottom of side board Front view of seat Rear view of seat Rear view of seat corner Just a few days, and Anna and I can "take a seat", I look forward to it😊. Regards, Harm
  14. 3 points
  15. 2 points
    Chris, It can be replaced, or, welded. However, DO NOT accept a rusted spring as a replacement. It will break in a line through the area of the deepest rust pits - much like your check book checks are weakened and tear easily at the perforations. Find a truck spring/suspension shop. They should be able to weld the break, grind it flush, arc it back to spec (the Club website drawing file has the measurements) and have the large ovens to re-temper it. I've used a truck spring shop in Syracuse called "Allied Spring" for broken spring repairs, re-arcing sagged springs, and making new leaves. http://allied-spring.com/ If you can't find a shop, give them a call and it may be worth shipping your spring to them. Being in the home of Franklins, they've done a few Franklin springs. Paul
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    Thank you Mike, same to you and Nora … And everyone else. I don’t have any Christmas pictures of any of my own, but here is an oldie … but a goodie. I figured even though it has been posted before, it isn’t on this thread, AND, it does have the right color combo, so it could be mine.
  18. 2 points
    Mazda’s claim stems from the assumption that much of the emissions generated by electricity production in the US is generated through the use of fossil fuels, e.g. natural gas, coal, and to a lesser extent renewables like hydroelectric, wind, solar. Nuclear is in the mix as well. If all electrical generation were strictly by wind, solar or hydroelectric, the EV clearly comes out on top.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Even if the electric source is 100% dirties coal, an EV would still have less carbon foot print from the fuel source than an ICE. FYI, only about 25-30% (at best) of the energy from petrol(gasoline) is used to propel an ICE vehicle forward.
  21. 2 points
    Yes... I don't do much wood on the metal machines but there are times when it's really the way to go. I've no idea how I'd have made the 3" radius if I didn't have a big face mill to use. I just don't like getting the machines covered with saw dust. When I first did it, I clogged up some of the oil holes...so now I have to be careful and cover the ones that are too close to the work.
  22. 2 points
    I'm probably drawing the line at 3 and 1/4. I know they make even bigger, but that seems like a good size.
  23. 2 points
    Hursst? Or something like that?. I'm up to page 6 lol. He is amazing!! The detail is outstanding
  24. 2 points
    I really appreciate the guidance and will definitely take heed to your advice. My parents didn't raise a fool and I understand that it will take the town to make this a success. I have read over your "take 2" and will probably be reading 10 more times.
  25. 2 points
    Be sure to read @KAD36's stories from the original rebuild as well as the 'Take-2' follow-up below. My takeaway is that even if proper procedures and techniques are followed, parts availability can be challenging and selecting the wrong parts, or even reusing what appear to be serviceable used parts can have significant consequences regarding the ultimate success of the rebuild. Been away for a bit..... My situation, with the rod nut shearing at each facet after 5000+miles, was a corner point failure. These aren't racing engines turning high rpms. It was an expensive lesson and experience and while the probability of occurrence is remote (as evidenced by no known similar field failures), about 100 bucks preventative investment in parts and custom machining per provided sketches avoids 25x realized cost in parts and labor. Pretty good cost to risk ratio. To give credit where it is due, the reason that engine ran like a Swiss watch was because so many people's experienced voices were baked into it and all helped think it through first to understand the "tolerance stack" issues before just throwing parts at it. "Test run" each subassembly in its installed configuration to the greatest extent possible.
  26. 2 points
    Budd made the beds for Dodge/Plymouth/Fargo, Studebaker, and others, so you may have multiple choices. You can also have a brand new bed - and perhaps the option to choose the width - from Bruce Horkey and some other suppliers of Dodge truck parts. See https://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/page36.php P.S. Horkey also offers fiberglass reproduction fenders to complete your bed, PPS.: The other place for bed parts is Mar-K - lots of choices in exotic woods for the bed itself.
  27. 2 points
    Better be careful Gunsmoke, those little rascals are habit forming, ha ! Here are some of our Hallmarks...and we have the boxes they came in too... oh me.
  28. 2 points
    In the USA, natural gas is the top source at 35%, coal 27%, nuclear at 19%, renewables at 17%. US government numbers for 2018. https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/electricity/electricity-in-the-us.php
  29. 2 points
    I've been working on both the cam shaft bearing and the "new and even more improved water pump"...I'm doing the pump now because I have to make patterns for the end plates and don't want to rush the guys next door. Also, I know I'll have to order some bits to continue with the cam shaft so I can work on the patterns while I wait. The first step was milling a 3" radius on this piece of oak hand rail. Then I cut some wooden squares, planed them to 5/8", put a 1" hole in the center and turned them round. I did the same thing again to get a 3" round piece and a 2-1/4" round piece and glued them all together. The pieces of 1" dowel on the right, with threaded inserts in them, will plug the center hole and give the mold maker a way to pull the pattern out of the sand. These still have to be painted and made as close to glass smooth as possible...which isn't difficult but takes time. For the crankcase, I need to replace this hole. It's 7/16 x 14 in the aluminum. The threads aren't great and my proposed design for the new bearing will need a hole that will allow me to torque the bolt that goes here. I made the threaded insert first. The internal thread is 1/2-20 and the external thread is 7/8-14. Not having a mandrel that will work with the internal hole, I threaded the inside and then threaded the outside while screwed onto a piece of 1/2-20 threaded rod. This works quite well because the pressure from the threading tool wants to tighten the piece but you have to put something behind it, against the collet, that is smaller than the minor diameter of the thread. With that done, I put the crank case in the mill and located the center of the hole. I did that by putting a center hole in a 7/16 bolt and screwing it in. Then it was drilled and bored. The drill size listed on the little chart I keep on the bench is actually wrong... it calls for 13/16 which leaves the threads very shallow. I looked it up in Machinery's Handbook to get the correct size and went for maximum thread engagement. Then, while still aligned in the mill, I tapped it. Because I was going for maximum engagement it was tight turning it in. I doubt it even needs the Locktite but I don't have to worry about it coming out and it will now allow me to tighten the bolt without worrying about stripping the threads.
  30. 2 points
    When I was working at a Corvette tuner, we were contacted by one of the local colleges who were participating in the Electric Grand Prix in conjunction with the Cleveland Grand Prix (this would have been in the mid-90s). At first we were only going to paint the thing for them, but we ended up re-engineering the whole car. We modified the battery packs so they could be removed and replaced more easily (we put them on tracks and built a cage for them so they could be removed en masse). We also put a 2-speed Lenco transmission between the engine and the rear end, so instead of direct drive, we had an overdrive and an underdrive gear. The first time we tried to drive it, we put it in low and pressed the throttle. There was a loud pop and then nothing. The motor was humming but it wasn't moving. We looked for a problem and eventually found that it had instantly snapped both halfshafts. That's when I learned about the wonders of 100% torque at 0 RPM. Once we had bigger, stronger half shafts made, the car worked beautifully and we dominated the race. Most of the cars were running about 70 MPH around the course. Our car, with the Lenco and an overdrive gear, would run 105. We were also able to change batteries faster, so while the rules said we had to do at least one battery change, we did three because it took us 2 minutes instead of the 12-15 minutes it took the other teams. We still won the race by more than 12 minutes. It wasn't even a fair fight. After that, they outlawed everything we did instead of incorporating it into the rules or embracing innovation. Then the electric grand prix died. But man, that was A LOT of fun. My point? There are hot-rodders playing with electric motors just as there were hot rodders playing with internal combustion. It's a mistake to discount the innovation and fun that they can offer just because they don't make smoke and make a lot of noise. Once we had that race car dialed in, you'd better believe it was thrilling to drive. MASSIVE acceleration at any speed and we could never go full throttle in low range because it would probably break the axles again. We had a heck of a lot of fun doing it. And back to my original comment, which was summarily deleted because I wrote something that resembled (but wasn't) a naughty word. I obviously dig electric cars and the future of them, but I'm very displeased with the guy in the article claiming that old cars are inherently unreliable. I resent that he's taking a dump on the rest of the hobby by saying that the only way to make an old car drivable is to make it electric, as if some guy in his home garage is smarter and turning out better product than the Porsche engineers. If your car is right, it will be reliable, and I doubt that any home-built electric car will be the answer to your reliability woes, especially if you're not smart enough to fix what's already there. I guess there are fewer moving parts so there's less to go wrong, but that doesn't mean the guy putting it together is an engineer. And it certainly won't be cheaper. This guy in the article simply seems like a lot of hobbyists with misguided ideas and no practical knowledge--if you can't fix it properly, change it into something you do know how to fix, whether it's an electric motor or a Chevy V8. That's all nonsense, too. If the point is to try something different, that's cool. Electric motors can be a lot of fun and they're especially well suited to toy cars like ours where range and practicality aren't priorities. But taking a dump on the rest of the hobby just to sell product? Not cool.
  31. 2 points
    The NYT loves to publish this kind of article. They firmly believe internal combustion is bad and is killing the planet, and electric is clean and will save us all. They fail to consider that the electricity is generated by (mostly) coal burning power plants, but that's just a minor fact that shouldn't get in the way of a political position.
  32. 2 points
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    You are correct. If the crank checked good, bearing inserts in the rods and mains could be replaced if needed on some engines. If I remember correctly, we only replaced the bearing if needed when doing a in-the-car overhaul. The goal was to save money. Once all the main bearing caps are loose you can remove one main bearing cap at a time and install new bearing inserts in the block by running the insert around the crank using a plastic tool made for that purpose. You could also do the same with the rear main seal on some of the old cars that had two piece seals. Seems like there was a tool that pulled the seal around someway while turning the crankshaft. Maybe that was on the engines that had the rope type rear main seals. It's been so long I don't remember how it worked for sure.
  35. 1 point
    Bearings in those days were typically babbitt with shims. Those would have been checked and adjusted at the same time. For cars with inserts .001 and .002 undersize rod bearings existed for cranks with a little wear. The crank had to be checked for roundness. You can't fix out-of-round with a bearing. You have the rods out if you have the pistons out. I guess you could skip the mains (I wouldn't), They are less likely to be screwed up than rods.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    I was told that Steve at this business does excellent work . He has done wood work on some very high end cars . So if your car needs some wood work done here is a place to inquire about the work Glazer Pattern & Coach Works3720 Loramie Washington RoadHouston, Ohio 45333(937) 492-7355
  40. 1 point
    Neat work on that step trim. It’s the details that make the difference 👍
  41. 1 point
    Looks like a Special? based on cowl length. a bit aggressive on the price IMO, though if truly rust free...
  42. 1 point
    I had this 1.5 ton Dodge pickup truck last year, but it was not a dually. However, they probably use the same wheels and axles and the second outer rear wheel was simply bolted on the lugs to make it a dually. It looks like the axle hub protrudes enough to accommodate a second wheel. It also suggests that you can remove the outer wheel without affecting anything (I presume you won't be using it to carry extremely heavy loads any longer). Hope this helps.
  43. 1 point
    This OLD method needs to be taken in context. It is not necessarily a halfassed job. Old cars required more frequent overhauls. Old cars used a LOT more oil normally than current ones do. You only get so many bore jobs before you are all done. If it were me, and the block were out of spec (the manual will give a wearlimit for taper), I would bore it and put in some high-quality Ross, Arias, etc. lightweight pistons with a MODERN low-tension ring package that will control oil better, and not wear out the bores right away. On the other hand If you are going to shove some period-correct NORS four-ring pistons in there, with rings as thick as a yardstick, it is certainly questionable whether to waste one of your potential bore jobs on that. On the old prewar (and early postwar) splash-lubricated Chevrolets, as an example, it was pretty common for them to have TWO minor overhauls before they got to 100,000 miles. Read the archives over on the VCCA forums if you don't believe me. There is at least one regular poster over there with dealership experience going back to 1950 or earlier. Would you want to give up 2 of your allotted bore jobs to get 100,000 miles? Even one? I wouldn't. No doubt someone will say "But I'm not going to drive it enough to wear it out!". To each his own, but that makes me bristle. That excuse has been used to justify some of the crappiest work I have ever seen. Cars that don't get driven have MORE trouble, not less. It is extremely unlikely that I will ever find myself file-fitting rings. On the other hand, If I had some engine in front of me with the ORIGINAL pistons, and they were in excellent condition, and the skirt clearance was ok, and the groove clearance was ok, and the taper was only a couple of thousandths out of spec, and when I shoved a new ring down the bore, the gap was way too wide..... Yeah, I'm not going to rule it out. Why trash original parts over a couple thousandths of bore wear? Back in the day, they use to let things go much farther than a couple of thousandths over wearlimit. The sky didn't fall. Puppies didn't die The sun still came up in the morning. They used to knurl pistons, too. Context is everything.
  44. 1 point
    Probably more just a realistically priced old car than a bargain. Looks to be an older rehab. Not really a bargain but better than some I have seen for the same money. Lots of sedans out there in this price range in similar shape.
  45. 1 point
    No matter what direction you go, it’s going to be a lot of work, and a fair amount of money. No repair will hold that together and let you use it as intended. Casting one yourself isn’t impossible, but making just one and doing the pattern by yourself will still cost five hundred dollars in time, and materials. If you that concerned about money there are a few choices. Leave it off the car. Trying to enjoy a car and not being willing to fix something because it’s no economically viable is...........just an unreasonable expectation. Dumping money in ANY toy and “throwing it away” is just a fact of life.........I have done it countless times..........That said, I would figure out what other common car uses the same type door latch hardware, and change out the entire car with a different handle pattern. There are other cars that use the same door mechanisms...........just figure out which ones and replace the hardware with a single different handle, or do a front/rear style, and you will have some spares for the future.
  46. 1 point
    Had the chassis and all the guards sandblasted today. Will make it a lot easier doing all the repairs now. Lot easier to see where it needs the attention. only 1 broken leaf in the front spring but the rest of the running gear looks to be in great condition. All the nuts and bolts will come of a lot easier now it’s blasted.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks Don - this is interesting. Your front motor crossmember is C channel and mine is round tube. After mocking up the mud guard and the radiator this is the amount of shim that I needed in the end... The transmission hits the floorboards and I cant get the boot ring over the transmission this is very frustrating...
  48. 1 point
    The system works this way, that the "computer" delays the ignition to reduce the engine's power, in case of the rear wheels are loosing the traction comparing to the front wheels. I've heard that this was also the reason for cancelation of the option in 73, due to new emission standards. There is a switch at the dash, and in case of malfunction of the system you could switch it off (switching off means bypassing the "computer"). The picture below is not very sharp, but you can see the switch there, just above the clock.
  49. 1 point
    Good job but I would put another brace each side at the top of the door level. You will be amazed at how flexible the body becomes when you lift it up. You could use small self drilling roofing type screws for fixings if you want to back up your welding.
  50. 1 point
    Each part gets a number and/or a "P" or "D" for passenger or driver, if there are two of the same part on each side. I put blue tape on the part, give it a number, then record the number in a log book with a description, how many fasteners go with it and what type, and any notes. Any fasteners are either placed back on the part loose if they will thread back in or have a bolt on the other side, or they go in a ziplock bag, with the same number in it. If there are a lot of fasteners, I'll number the fasteners in the order they were removed, as to ensure their correct position. I then dump all the parts, in rough order, in a storage shed, to get them out of the way. Assembly of the car is just going through all the numbers in reverse (for the most part, as some missing pieces or large systems may need this or that before you can go on to the next step). All wire connections get a letter on each loose wire that corresponds to where it connects on the other end. "A" goes to "A," etc. Throw in lots of "before" photos and it's hard to mess it up. It's really just like a plastic model kit, except you have about 4000 parts instead of 30, and it takes about 3-5 years instead of 3-5 days. Some of the parts in the photos were not "processed" yet, but they will go thru the process immediately, I just took the photo as soon as I got some of the parts off. Thanks for the replies, it's encouraging and motivating to see so many of the other cool project cars here, and to learn a lot of good information for my own restoration from the comments.