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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I understand your frustration with the missing links. Didn't you find it odd that he never posted anything but eBay links? I did and I said so in one of the threads that got deleted. The links ROBERTWILLIAM posted were not what they appeared to be. They were disguised as legitimate eBay links but when clicked they directed you to a third party website before redirecting you to eBay. It's called link cloaking. I don't know if it is specifically against the rules but it should be because it's deceitful and underhanded. At the very least those links could have been earning him a commission for you clicking the link and it's possible they were tracking you on the internet or even worse. Who knows for sure what his motives were for posting those links but I can assure you it wasn't in the best interest of forum members. I think the decision to ban him was a good one.
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    Be cautious with the grease holes on the wheel hubs and on the base of the distributor. Hubs. Front Wheels - Treat your front wheels like a modern car. Use a quality wheel bearing grease. Remove the wheels and hubs. Clean inspect and repack the bearings. You should be good for at least 50,000 miles. The car will never see that mileage. Pumping grease in that hole in the hub will not get into both inner and outer bearings. Those plugs in the hub are a sales and marketing gimic. Rear Wheels - Same thing here. The outer rear wheel bearings are long roller bearings. These are lubricated by the rear axle fluid. I would still suggest a clean and rebuild and install using wheel bearing grease on the rollers and races. The screw hole in the hub is not going to get grease into that bearing. It is also likely to get grease onto the taper shaft that the wheel hub is mounted on. These taper hubs are supposed to be kept dry from grease and assembled dry. Distributor There is a grease fitting on the front of the starter generator on the distributor mount. Why do I see all these distributor gears with sharp pointed teeth? Because the grease point is in the wrong place. To do the distributor right, remove the plug under the distributor, put a dab of grease on a Q tip, and make that dab go into the gear teeth itself. At least on the 1925 model you can do this. I know when I was rebuilding my distributor that this was another place where the grease point was in the wrong place. This is one area that should be greased with frequency. Just pumping grease into the distributor cavity - not for me. Starter/Generator Clutches These do not really see a ton of movement or high speed, so the lubricant lasts a long time. Clean and Reassemble them with a quality synthetic grease. Notice that there is very little if any wear in these clutches so the 500 mile recommendation is the basic rule and not based on the good design Buick used for minimal wear when they were made. My recommendation is #1 Synthetic grease. Being synthetic, they will not separate and they can handle the heat. The two that I recommend are Super Lube or Redline CV2. Super Lube is used on many boat trailers because it can handle being submerged. Redline has a lot of recommendations as well. If you do have some old wheelbearing grease at home and it is separated in the tub, dispose of it properly and get some good stuff. Same if your grease gun is oozing oil. That is old school grease in it and it is time to upgrade. Hugh
  4. 3 points
    This isn't "my" Buick, but it will be an ongoing restoration thread. I thought some of you here on the BCA site would enjoy following. 20 years ago, this car was completely blown apart. I mean, if it unscrewed, it came apart. The chassis was painted, and the body was media blasted. New aftermarket quarter panels were grafted on while the body was off the frame...and as a result of insufficient (read: none) bracing, the quarter panels buckled when the body was dropped back on the frame. The project was abandoned until it was picked up several years ago and stored away again. A couple weeks ago, it arrived here to be completed. The intention is to get it to MCACN 2020 in November next year. It's a nearly impossible order for me, but I am up to the challenge after last year's thrash on the 72 GSX. The first thing I did was install the doors to make sure they were still going to line up with the body, and there was no damage to the integrity of the body shell. Everything lined up perfectly, and all measurements came out good when I checked various spots on the body for square. New aftermarket quarter panels from The Parts Place are on the way, along with a dump truck load of other parts. Since no one makes quarters for convertibles, I will be using aftermarket hardtop quarters. They will be cut near the top of the body line and spliced in properly. The current quarter panels are welded in using a lap joint, and those can be questionable on longevity if any moisture gets in behind the joint. If you look inside the trunk, you can clearly see the joint where the old one was cut off and new welded on. Now that I know where we stand, I am hiring a dustless blasting company to come out and hose the body shell, doors, and fenders. Once that is complete, I can replace the quarters. I'll then brace the body and remove it from the frame. The chassis will be redone while the body is off. Thankfully, the rest of the body is in great shape. All it needs is cleaned up and hit with epoxy to keep it from rusting while I mess around with the quarters. More to come...hopefully soon...
  5. 3 points
    Here she is. Unfortunately with the cold gray day, I have to post a photo the seller sent me. I'll try to get it out over the weekend for a few better shots. Winter has been knocking on our door today. Lets hope it passes us by. I would love to drive it once or twice this fall, if for nothing else, than to find the gremlins most old cars have so I can sort them over the winter. She doesn't look like she's had much use in the last 20 years with about 3000 on the odometer according to the owner restorer. I have seen a few and remember seeing one for sale when I was around 16 or 17 in much worse shape for ironically not alot less money and that was 30 years ago. She runs very well. Most chrome is new, Nice top and decent interior. Very good straight body with good paint and since it's been on there a long time I should be good to go. Needs alot of detailing. Looks about as dirty in person, but that's some of the fun. I haven't had a chance to test everything out so I can't give a full report. Should be a fun driver by next summer. Now the question. The Bedford Classic tires are probably 20 years old so they need to go. Correct white walls or Blackwalls? I probably won't go the expense of Radial whites so they would be probably a Bias Firestone white. Had them on my 48 Plymouth conv't and it drove very well without even balancing the wheels. No I'm not going Chrysler Wires Though I do have a full painted set that came off a 54 Dodge sedan in a junkyard back in the 60's.
  6. 3 points
    some photos from November 1985 When dad brought the car home. That's my brother in the hat...and that little guy seems familiar. Also "Big 6" at the time of the photo. also found a couple undated progress photos
  7. 3 points
    Received the November Bugle today. The story of the Peking-Paris race is fantastic. The 1929 Buick is a trooper! Ben
  8. 3 points
    Nice one. It would probably run better with the typical Chevy 350/350 combo in it and stop a lot better with disc brakes. I'm sure it will all just bolt right in with no modifications.
  9. 3 points
    I see that the last couple of cars that ROBERTWILLIAM posted info on in 'Cars forSale' have mysteriously disappeared. Looks like it doesn't take much to be booted off the forum. I guess simply posting links to interesting orphan cars is reason to be banned and your posts deleted? I for one enjoyed looking at the for sale cars he posted, especially the Studebakers and Packards.
  10. 3 points
    I was able to find the previous owner of the car and call him up. I asked him about the nature of any repairs he made to the car while he owned it. He confirmed that both heads were taken to a place called Dunkum's Machine Shop right down the road from where I live. The heads were rebuilt because he said that one of the valves was sticking when he bought the car. He went on to say that the car wasn't driven very much while he owned it. The rest of the engine was left alone because of it's "low mileage" and the compression was very good. The fuel tank was also removed and reconditioned. He didn't remember spray painting the engine, but did say that if he did, he only sprayed the top of the engine. That lines up with what I observed. I was also able to find and call the Grandson of the previous owner...to the previous owner (hope you followed that). He said that his Grandad would drive the car to and from his job. He owned a car dealership in my area and he also said that if anything was done to the car, that his employees would take care of it for him. So, not a lot there. Either way, I have a better understanding of the engine than what I did before.
  11. 3 points
    Yesterday at Bradley, Maine. The foliage is past peak but still it was a wonderful crisp Fall day.
  12. 2 points
    hello, here are some pictures of a small car show that I went to see today in Castelsarrasin in the south of France. There were 71 cars and the oldest is from 1903. Excuse me for the bad quality of image, the exhibition was in a room and the photos do not make good Chenard & Walcker 1911 ( in restoration )
  13. 2 points
    We are increasingly being bombarded by telephone calls with "unknown name" or "invalid name" or "private" on caller ID. The other day, just to get some statistics, I answered all within a day. There were 18 of which 17 were "garbage" calls, either robocalls, or a person wanted to scam us. The one that was legitimate was an auto parts house that came up unknown. I asked the individual about it, and he said he would refer the question to their tech department. We are now ignoring calls with "unknown name" or "invalid name" or "private" on caller ID. If you should call us during normal telephone hours, and get our recording, would suggest you check how your telephone is configured. Jon.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Don. I should have taken a few photos of them when I saw them on his table at Hershey. In the meantime. I have a little progress on the master engine. I finally reassembled the carb/riser/manifold assembly and mounted all back on the engine. Now, I just have to see if it will run with the new timing gear. The first time we saw the car when we helped the owner's sons get it running in March of 2013. The heat system was still in play at this time and the rusted out by pass tube had a piece of rubber hose vulcanized to it! In 2016 when I brought it home. The carb/riser vacuum tank and fuel tank was already cleaned. Yesterday's progress. NOS gaskets came with the car. Cleaned with naval jelly and scrubbed. Coated with Permatex copper adhesive/sealer spray. Coated 1 1/4" O.D. steel bypass tube I had made up. (the 1924 is straight) Also with newly machined collars. I had to shorten the overall length of the tube because of the freeze plugs inserted into the carb and the exhaust damper cutting off all heat to the carb.
  16. 2 points
    yeah Bob Marx said he used to have them made and sell as sets. not sure why hew stopped, unless cost more that you can sell. does not seem to be a popular item people are looking for in these years.
  17. 2 points
    Here is a picture of the steering wheel after some rechroming(Custom Chrome Playing, Grafton Ohio) and recasting(JB Donaldson, Phoenix Az.) dallasalice sold me. I have the horn button insert with the additional script of McLaughlin Canada on it for my 37 McBuick Coupe. Thanks everyone.
  18. 2 points
    You don't look like Justin Beiber any more.
  19. 2 points
    What price would have kept you on the line? Or any of the observers of the sale, for that matter? Well I sell swap meets and online to re-purpose parts so I have to figure fuel and hotel and time to go get it,plus the unknowns cracked block siezed tranny, broke pot metal etc., unknowns like valve stem hole and lug nut holes cracked on wire wheels rust and then how many Hershey"s to get my Investment back, So I would have to be in for it for 850-2000. I have bought so many parts cars complete some fantastic condition to bottom earth rust buckets all for 2 and below if its worth saving I will try and get engine running and yard driveable and resell to the guy who wants to restore it and take to next level. (hopefully keep Original) other wise I re-purpose to my car projects and to the guys looking to complete there's, but some cars may be super rare, but if no one has a project or restore going on it sits and I loose money. In the end its all a gamble. If I had that car and needed all the stuff well I might pay more. he then came back at me for 2500 for engine again, Unknowns and no room for me. Good luck guys on that. Closing note: A car like that is a shame, it should have been saved in Preservation of a beautiful Buick in my humble opine. Cheers
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    When you start buying the speed equipment I link for you be sure to buy original stuff. More money but since this is the AACA we need to stay in period.
  22. 2 points
    See....I need LOTS more money. You decide....
  23. 2 points
    It might not be lowered. Many of 51's seem to sit like that. The 51 is rare. 9300 over 3 years, but only 1k in the last year of 51. I tried to buy my first one when I was 18. It was advertised for 1500 bucks in the Want Advertiser as a good restoration candidate. What a complete POS it was when I got there.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Just wanted to touch base with everyone that offered suggestions/help with my 49 Roadmaster with no spark. I finally have had some time to devote to getting the car running. I bought some emery cloth at my local parts store and and cleaned the surface of the points. When I turned on the ignition and pulled the points apart with a screwdriver I saw the spark I have not seen in months. I put the cap back on the distributor and the car fired up. After letting it warm up for a while I drove her around the block. It ran really smooth. I know I need to replace the points and condenser because my fix is only temporary, but now I know what my problem was. As a side note when I bought my first car in 1966 and for a few cars after that all of which had points I regularly changed or cleaned and adjusted my points without an issue, but I has been about 40 years since I last had to do it. I had forgotten everything I knew about points. Today I regained some of that knowledge thanks to those that replied to my post. It is a good thing because I have a 70 and 72 Riviera with the 455 in them that I think have the same issue. The first thing I am going to do with them is clean the points to see if I can get them running again. Thanks again.
  26. 2 points
    With any link, just hover over it and (in Windows) look at the link at the bottom left. Does it look like what you expect for what it purports to be? If not, don't go there.
  27. 2 points
    Agreed, don't want stuff like that. Thanks for the explanation.
  28. 2 points
    But what did he do that was against the rules on THIS forum? I don't know the guy, but if just posting interesting cars for sale seen on other sites is against the rules, it would be good for the rest of us to know that.
  29. 2 points
    My center brace for the grill support came in today. This one item ties everything together - hood latch plate, upper & lower grill that I painted and the lower valence. The brace does need the two nylon nuts which the grill attachment screws into.... those are on order. I ordered extra nylon nuts, I figure that I might as well replace the nuts on the other two braces since they are 50 years old and probably getting " weak" from all the times I mounted and remounted the grills. Steve
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Today I gave it a bath and took some photos. I have a few things more to complete on my 69 Charger and then can start in earnest. First goal is brake, second is getting it running again, then driving. Then finish the paint and then the interior. There is minor deterioration of the restoration in the past 25 years, but I don't intend to go all the way back to zero and instead treat it as a sympathetic restoration.
  32. 2 points
    Love those grand kids, and they are returnable.
  33. 2 points
    Not the most spectacular of fall colors, but here is a shot of a car that is comfortable in any setting. Phil
  34. 2 points
    These pictures were taken three days ago, near Grandfather Mountain, NC and close to the Eastern Continental Divide.. The colors are just past their maximum at this elevation, but still pretty. At higher elevations the leaves have fallen off the trees. At lower elevations, they haven't quite reached their peak yet. The car is a 1966 Morgan Plus 4 dropheaad coupe. Last night we had a storm rip through, the temperature dropped to 27F, the leaves all blew off and we had a dusting of snow. Phil
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    Chrysler products already had hardened seats in those days. There was no unleaded gas at that time.
  37. 2 points
    Last week-end, our AACA region had its annual Fall Foliage Tour. Leaves were colorful, and there were a lot of yellows around where I live. Somehow, the camera never captures nature's glory in all its resplendence, so the colors look more muted in the picture than they really are. But here is my 1957 Buick Century 4-door hardtop, a car which I bought as my first antique right after I graduated:
  38. 2 points
    Colour Beauty and a Serenity Setting...
  39. 2 points
    God Almighty. Here's a thoroughly meritorious automobile that has survived unmolested and in one piece for EIGHTY-EIGHT YEARS, only to end up in the hands of a heartless, torch-wielding butcher. It's hard not to feel sick over this one.
  40. 2 points
    Finally a nice day and some leaf color. Put out a call for cars over 50 years old to go for a Leaf Peeper Sunday ride. Got 13 to go for about a 28 mile ride in the mountains. Our 34 Ford, a 24 Cadillac, a 25 Model T, a 29 Model A, a 32 Plymouth, a 35 Ford, a 36 Ford, a 36 Packard, a 46 Chevy PU, a 49 Dodge PU, a 60 Studebaker PU, a 64 Ranchero, a 68 Skylark. Lots of smiles and some good conversations afterward.
  41. 2 points
    Around Acadia in Maine last week
  42. 1 point
    While I'm a fan of blackwalls on many cars I believe this car shows best with white walls. Plus this car represents the more affluent 1950's rather than the frugal 1930's.
  43. 1 point
    Beautiful work, great transformation.
  44. 1 point
    Thanks for the great photos! I love the Facel Vega convertible. To me, the Facel Vega coupe of that era is the best looking French car of all time, and one of the world's best looking cars of all time. I also love the looks of the Renault Floride. I've seen a Renault Caravelle in online ads and it looks just about the same. Are they the same car named differently for options?
  45. 1 point
    So, while I scrounge for material to use setting up the crankcase I started on the boring bar guides. This is two pieces of 1" x 2" aluminum. I put them on the surface plate and clamped them together. Then drilled a #7 hole for a 1/4-20 screw and set a stop on the drill press so I could drill the upped piece out to 1/4". Then tapped the lower piece with this long pulley tap. The two pieces screwed together. The idea is to machine them as one piece so that the guides for the boring bar will be is perfect alignment with each other. Oh... and about 4 or 5 years ago I visited Dunster Castle with a friend of mine. When I made these doors for the shop he insisted I was overly influenced by the castle's enormous oak doors.
  46. 1 point
    Harold, There is simply no place on earth quite like the Pacific NW. I've lived here for seventy five years, but have traveled a good deal, and have never seen anything quite like it. I love it, but it's not for everyone. You have to see it first hand to believe it, and you have to live here to understand. Nothing that I could say could possibly do justice to the beauty or the experience of living here. Since your son lives here he has probably clued you in on some of the aspects of NW living, but here are a couple of things that may escape notice. But we really don't know much about your likes and dislikes-city, town, rural, water, mountains? Type of housing required, acreage, out buildings like garage space? The climate is mild with little snow and maybe the most beautiful summers imaginable-hyperbole, I really don't think so. Check it out. It's all about mountains and water. Weather is dominated by micro-climates. As little as ten or fifteen miles, can can make a huge difference in the amount of rainfall-be aware. Seldom more then a hour from salt water or the mountains. It's often easier to go east and west, then it is north and south, within the Puget Sound corridor. The Seattle times the other day, commented that the most often looked at destination for people looking to move from Seattle. Seattle is he second destination in the area, still a highly prize destination, but it's expensive. An area that you might look into is the Port Angeles/Sequim. You're a bit farther from Seattle, but still a decent three hour drive. You're a ferry ride from Victoria BC and you're int the Olympics-check out Hurricane Ridge! Rain shadow in Sequim, only 17" of rain a year. Great area don't ignore it. Another area you should look into is the foothills, south from the more populous Issaquah, to the nice little town of Enumclaw, including towns of Hobart, Ravensdale, and Black Diamond in the, and to north Bend, Fall City, Duvall and Carnation all the way to Snohomish. Making the right choice in this area and you can really enjoy the old car hobby without anyone looking over your shoulder. Bottom line though is that we have to know what you really want. Bill
  47. 1 point
    All the MoPar flatheads already have hardened Stellite exhaust seats. Leave it as is...it will be just fine. After 50 years of driving these old MoPars and never an issue with mine...use this and all the advice already given!
  48. 1 point
    Was not talking about the AACA allowing custom cars. Just saying that the classic/custom car industry is very large. Vintage cars will not be gone in my life time.
  49. 1 point
    Today we have actual working head lights. Hi and low beam! The headlight indicator jewel in the headlamp pull-switch lights up too! Exciting steps as these items have not worked in what appears to be decades. The electron flow improvement-work continues. Sure is fun making progress. I’ll maintain a 6V system with generator and regulator. I am reviving this car. Not restoring it. I am not replacing wires with period correct cloth covered wires. Two 6V relays will be installed for ho/low beam head light circuits soon. As someone mentioned elsewhere on this form, I seem to fit into the old car hobby. Not the collector car hobby.
  50. 1 point