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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Body work is 99% complete. Tweaking the wheel shields (fender skirts) and rear bumper stone guard which are originals purchased from @2carb40 (Thanks yet again Greg!). The car is in primer stage and blocking. The car is fully assembled including underside panels like stone shields so that anything that can affect body panel alignment is in place for verification of final assembly. Since the doors were totally reconstructed, the window frames and crank mechanisms and ventipanes will be installed also to be certain that everything will line up after paint. Paint isn't scheduled until winter sets in with low dust and humidity and Dan's ability to control heat and airborne moisture content. The car will be totally disassembled with the body put on a rotisserie for ease of painting, sanding and finishing. Everything will be painted separately. Originally Buick painted the body with the doors and I believe the deck lid installed. At this point, everything except the window frames and ventipanes is in for replating. For replating, I found Rick at R&D Finishing. He used to do all of Lewis Jenkins plating.
  2. 4 points
    I unfortunately replaced all my ducts with cheap dryer ducts from Home Depot. Hence the knowledge of hose clamps. I think the aluminum foil works better than the old stuff, maybe. Just don't look under my dash please.
  3. 3 points
    This look like a scene where a UFO just landed over there and that nice lady is about to be eaten by something awful with glowing red eyes.
  4. 3 points
    Well I enjoyed it and as a life long Olds buff, owner of several CDO's and other early Oldsmobiles, Olds employee and Olds dealer I wish great video's like this were 100% accurate. I hate being picky but the 1897 Olds that is on loan from the Smithsonian is one of 4 not 3! Ransom Olds has neveer been given his just due by the automotive press. He had a ton of first in the industry.
  5. 3 points
    When no one is looking put them in the dishwasher,run them thru twice but only to at a time,don’t get caught, Dave
  6. 2 points
    He should offer it to the hobby at a scrap price, win-win. Sell the Franklin parts the same way!
  7. 2 points
    I am sorry but I fail to see an issue with any of this. I personally do not like it (displaying trophies), never have done it and think it stands a good chance of causing another car damage or someone tripping over them. New car, old car....I am just happy people are attending car shows and hopefully will get more engaged in the hobby. Lot of bashing here where we can just look the other way. If it makes this guy and whatever club he is showing the car happy what real harm does it cause any of us. This is a huge big hobby, with people who have their likes and dislikes. Sort of like why they make so many forms of ice cream!
  8. 2 points
    Headline: RIVIERA PAVES THE WAY FOR CORVETTE STYLING 1968 A little later
  9. 2 points
    A very turbine indeed. The first cousin to the 63 /64 cast aluminum turbine with center CAP two bar spinner and emblem. Turbines have a high cool factor. Yes, indeed. Turbinator
  10. 2 points
    Classy looking all the way! Tough to keep clean but well worth the effort. These covers have some weight to them too. I have a set of driver quality ones if anyone is looking for some. PM me if so. Thanks.
  11. 2 points
    Out of sight, out of mind. Sounds like something I would do. I like it, Ben. Ben
  12. 2 points
    O.K. friends and men, gentle and otherwise : Please allow me to "spread a little oil" (please don't accuse me of being environmentally insensitive), on these somewhat tempest tossed waters by bringing us back to topic. Dig', which vehicle will be outside this Winter ? For how many months ? How frequently will you have access to it and be able to ventilate, dry out, and monitor it ? - Carl P.S. Please be nice and respectful of one another. Print communication can get off track and exaggerated fairly quickly. Delivered without the modulation of verbal form, much less the nuances and subliminal cues derived from face to face, the printed form has no decay time either. I think I see kindness and consideration misplaced and misunderstood here. So I, being just a human participant and hopefully a friend to all here, will take it upon myself to apologize and forgive where needed here and now. Carry on guys and gals ! O.K. ?????? - CC
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    Thanks WQ59B, you beat me too it, that is one of the best HAMB threads along with this one with L.A. photos.Bob https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-history-of-los-angeles.446547/
  15. 2 points
    Hold on to your fedora : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/vintage-shots-from-days-gone-by-part-2.1154030/
  16. 2 points
    Prior to the early 70's there was not as much data required by government agencies to be kept for cars built in the USA. There were records retention requirements. After the requirement was lapsed, the records were typically destroyed. When I worked for GM in my GMI co-op years, I had the opportunity to clean some of these records out and send them to landfills, like inspection tickets, build sheets, etc. Additionally, the cost of computer storage (online) and historical data tape retention was also kind of expensive back then, and of course we didn't have the internet, so they were destroyed or reused when the retention requirement was over (I worked in their Data Processing or IT organization for many years). Add to that some divisions in GM did keep historical data, and some of it is available for research. Unfortunately not all divisions saved what we now see as important build information detail down to the individual vehicle. Therefor our Riviera ownership today is more like an archaeologists adventure in order to piece together our cars history. The obvious things like Body Plate, VIN number, build sheets, and observing your car can give you some of the information/facts. Then there is the history that some owners saved for their beloved Rivieras, including receipts and oral history. Tracing down that history can prove to be difficult as the years go by and the people that were of car buying age in 1963-5 are moving on to new digs. Sometimes it requires a little creativity to put all the pieces together, but at no time can you say that what you see is 100% correct, in my opintions. As and example, dealers put Rally Wheels on Rivieras back in 64 even though they were not available, because they could order the Wildcat ones and to make a customer happy by mounting them on a Riviera. There were some other things that could be done in a dealership before delivery, that are unknown today for the most part, like purse hooks, compasses, and other small things. The dealer could install a rear center armrest, put in a four note horn or rear seat belts for the customer - the service parts were readily available in the dealership, and may not have been well documented - anything for a sale. Unless you have the itemized original sales receipt (and that may not tell the whole story), you probably couldn't know what was delivered, and even with that there may be a set of better hub caps thrown in the trunk by the salesman as it drove off the lot, thanking a good customer. Records for our cars are unfortunately incomplete, and were not retained, compared to today. The laws didn't require it, and it was expensive to keep the paper, computer tapes, etc. Computer storage today is cheap and plentiful, and now we expect everything to be at our fingertips. Our quest is something that requires research, perseverance, a little magic, and luck - and even with all of that we are probably not that close to 100 percent. Rock On gord
  17. 2 points
    It probably needs a new accelerator pump. With carb full of gas and engine off, look down the throat, and move the throttle slightly. The streams of gas should start instantly when you move the throttle. If there is any delay at all, its gonna drive lousy.
  18. 1 point
    SEE THIS CAR AT HERSHEY CAR CORRAL, SPACES B67-B69! You already know I'm in love with this car. It is the endgame for a guy like me, the best pre-war Buick to own (OK, that's a little biased, but only a little) and if you want a tour car that does everything well, this is it. Comfortable, fast, reliable, stylish, and thanks to the efforts of our friend Earl Beauchamp it's now a CCCA Full Classic. Awesome color combination of Monterey Blue over a red interior (it was originally Touquet Beige, which is pretty blah--this is so much better). It has the look and feel of a car that has always been loved and well-maintained, but never taken apart and fully restored all at once. Obviously it was repainted, and they did a fantastic job of it--I can find no traces of that original beige paint in any of the nooks and crannies so it was quite thorough. It was probably back in the '80s and I bet it's lacquer or enamel, because there's some checking here and there. Nothing is coming apart or flaking, and we were able to bring out a fantastic shine with a light buff. My advice would be to leave it alone and enjoy it as-is because it's just about like my Limited--low maintenance and you'll never worry about bugs or weather. That's very liberating when you own an old car. There's no sign of bodywork or rust repair, and the only rust issue on the whole car is a section in the rocker just under the passenger's rear door, but you need to be under the car to see it; it is neither structural nor visible. The chrome is fantastic and has surely been restored more recently, including the pot metal which shows almost no pitting or other issues that are common to these cars. The stainless trim along the rockers and doors is quite good and all the lenses are bright and clear. It's a great-looking car in just the right condition to drive and enjoy. The red leather interior is probably more recent than the paint and it remains a first-class place to spend some time. The pleated seats are correct for an open car (closed cars with leather would have no pleats) and the door panels are correctly trimmed with three chrome strips at the bottom. The door hardware is nicely restored with correct escutcheon plates and both the door sill plates and window sills are in very good condition. The seats are firm and comfortable and the front seat offers a reasonable amount of adjustment for even tall drivers. The plastics, including the steering wheel and gauge faces, are just too nice to be original and they're the right shade of cream--not too yellow. Yes, there's a little bit of spalling and one crack in the wheel, but again, I'd leave it alone because it won't get any worse if you take care of it. All the gauges are fully operational, as is the clock, and a fresh bushing kit was just installed in the shifter so it's tight and rattle-free. All four windows roll up smoothly and we fixed all the courtesy lights (oddly, there's no switch for the left rear door, but all three other doors do activate the lights). The radio is offline, which isn't a surprise, but the defroster and underseat heater are working properly. Seat belts were added not too long ago and the job was professionally done, and there's a lot of insulation under the carpets so it stays cool and comfortable even on hot days (notably cooler than my Limited in the driver's seat). The back seat is downright cavernous and there's a recent tan canvas convertible top that folds surprisingly easily into a very compact stack and hides under a brand new boot. The trunk is also neatly finished with a correct shelf and zero rust in the tool tray area, which is the first place these cars start to go wrong. I'm thrilled with the way this Roadmaster drives. The 320 cubic inch straight-8 was rebuilt not too long ago and features a pair of Carter carbs rebuilt by Doug Seybold and tuned by yours truly. It starts instantly and idles smoothly, hot or cold. On the road it's almost silent and completely smooth--seriously, you can't feel or hear it and have to shift by the sound of the gears. My Limited isn't anywhere close to this smooth and quiet. It's pretty impressive, and I attribute that to the Carters, which seem to work better on these engines once you get them tuned properly. It's quite correctly detailed under the hood with Dante Red engine enamel, reproduction decals, and factory-style hose clamps. The wiring harness appears to be newer as well, and it runs nice and cool, never going above 180 no matter how hot it gets (I had it idling in the parking lot on an 80+ degree day and it never whimpered). There's a new stainless exhaust system that sounds great and no evidence of exhaust leaks or cracked manifolds--woo-hoo! The floors are clean, the brakes are very strong, and it feels like it has 3.60 gears in back, because it will run well past 60 MPH without breaking a sweat--as I said, I only wish my Limited felt this good on the road. I'm not in love with the fat 225/75/15 Diamondback wide whitewall radials, but I can't argue with how they ride and handle. Yes, I'm a little biased because these are obviously my favorite cars. Nevertheless, the highest praise I can give a car is that I would keep it for myself, and had I not burned my savings to the ground a year ago with The Car Which Shall Not Be Named, this Buick would now be part of my permanent collection. I would paint the wheels red and get some skinnier radials on it, drive it until those tires wore out, then do it all over again. It's a brilliant road car, a very rare machine (only 312 Roadmaster 71C Phaetons were built), and more than a match for just about any other pre-war car on any tour or outing. It looks like it should cost much more than $59,900, and the slower, more common Cadillacs routinely bring about $20,000 more. This is a really good car for the guy who understands that great cars aren't necessarily perfect cars. Thanks for looking!
  19. 1 point
    This will be my first Hershey Swap meet. I am very excited! My Dad is joining me and it is his first time as well. A friend of ours goes every year and parks his trailer across from the Green field. We will be camping in his trailer. My Dad and I will be flying in from Oregon on Tuesday morning October 8th and heading home Saturday October 12th in the evening. We attend the Portland Swap meet every year, but I assume Portland is a pea in the ocean compared to Hershey. We want to see and experience as much as possible. We are not bringing a show car, just ourselves and backpacks full of money..... πŸ™‚ Are there any suggestions or tips from experience folks that you could share with me? We would like to check out the RM Auction at the Hershey lodge. How is traffic and parking when trying to attend this event? Is it best to get a Uber or Taxi?
  20. 1 point
    Yes, that is exactly what I had in mind, I'll get in touch with them and post back any info guys
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Yep, the hybrid series of auto radios. No high voltage. Audio output is transitorized. Yes, +12 volts on the plates of the tubes, called "Space Charged".πŸ‘ Usually the elctrolytics and paper capacitors and it is good to go, good being relative. The fully solid state ones of 64 or so were better performers, but Bendix was a good company, did mostly defense communications work on the electronics side. The old plant in Baltimore is now the National Electronics Museum. SInce you already had it playing once, do you or your friends have an auto antenna laying around? You can just plug it into the antenna jack of the radio to see if it plays. No need to mount for a quick test.
  23. 1 point
    Those kids are losers, the losers my Grandchildren will make a fortune off of. Bob
  24. 1 point
    Doctors and lawyers don't have theirs on the wall just to 'show off'. They are there to prove to YOU they are qualified that you are getting the best medical care or services that you are paying for. Craig
  25. 1 point
    You might want to take the double switch out of the circuit. Then see what happens. If things start working then the double switch is bad.
  26. 1 point
    I think it is for a '57 Chrysler 300C, might be for other series, too. Here is an Ebay pic for one - looks pretty much the same.
  27. 1 point
    Rule number one of old tube type radios. If it hasn't been on in quite some time, DO NOT TURN IT ON! Now, since it has been on several times, and apparently did sort of work once, you may be okay. Rule number two, if it won't work in the first few minutes after turning it on, TURN IT OFF! And leave it off until it can be checked out. Old tube type radios had old style paper and foil in wax capacitors. They can go flat over time, and often will short out if turned on or left on for any length of time. Those shorted capacitors can begin a cascade failure of shorts and burned out components throughout the circuits. My dad used to be a radio and television repairman way back when, and he collected antique radios for many years. He had over 200 radios when he passed away fifteen years ago. I know there are a few radio people that make a side business of restoring automobile radios from the '30s through the '60s. I do not know any personally, so cannot advise you there. But ask around. Ask friends with cars of your car's vintage, see if anyone can offer suggestions for either the good or the bad. Personally, I would encourage anyone with a '50s or '60s collector car to include the correct and/or original radio in that restoration. It is too easy to toss the thing aside because we don't understand it or how to fix it. It is too easy to stuff a phony guts behind a fake facade to play your MP3 on. A working correct radio is a special detail that can set any collector car above the rest! Besides, you can buy short range transmitters that work in the AM radio frequencies specifically made to broadcast your MP3 player onto your AM radio. They are cheap. I have one, and it works well. I used to use it in my modern car because I often drove to visit family through about a hundred miles of no good radio reception. And, HEY OUT THERE!? I am asking. Where can he get his radio fixed right?
  28. 1 point
    My Dodge 8 is a devil for carb icing. So I start it, idle for 5 minutes or more, shut down, go and get my jacket, lunch, camera, comfort stop etc. When ready, start up and drive away. The heat from the exhaust manifold and engine has warmed the carb enough that the temperature drop below the venturi is not enough to reach freezing. I just live with it. As the air plus fuel expands below the venturi, it has to absorb warmth to expand (make the molecules move further and faster and thus spread apart). Energy is taken from where it is available, including the carb body. Expanding gases must absorb warmth; when you compress a gas, it must give off energy to slow the gas molecule movement (to pack them together more tightly), so the compressing system heats up. I seem to remember something called Brownian Motion in relation to this.
  29. 1 point
    BRAKES stop you. BREAKS also stop you but there is something to fix because it is broken.
  30. 1 point
    And this is what the Heat Riser does on older cars. You know, the rusty part everyone wants to remove now to prevent valve burning......πŸ˜‰
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Taylmade, I have a technical builtin, I got from Harry on adjusting Gimmer box, if you PM me your email , I will send you a link
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    I was turning into the entrance of the Chapin Mill Retreat with a friend. The rod and gun club across the street had a sign out advertising a pig roast to support Ducks Unlimited. My friend read it and said "Kill a pig, save a duck". I was just imagining what that 10th mouse thought when he jumped into the bucket and saw the first 9.
  36. 1 point
    Ugh, just caught it, I’ve been spelling Stynoski wrong all this time - not going back and re-editing it either. πŸ™‚ Oops.
  37. 1 point
    Doug, I am going to suggest that if your original sender is similar to my '72's, in that the sender unit is contained within it's own baffle, then you will find this style of sender to be erratic. When I did mine a few years ago I could not immediately find an original style unit. I used one of these style senders and it does work, but the gauge is all over the place because of sloshing in the tank. At the time there were several units available and I believe mine was less expensive than that one on e bay. I do not know if any are really better than the other. If you have the service manual, does it show what the original sender should look like? Here is a link to my thread and the pictures are at the bottom of page 3 :72-Electra aka The Queen
  38. 1 point
    Finish the body, make sure it's all lined up (just to 1954 standards) and test and reinstall the radiator. We've also talked about a repaint, after her 2021 archival show though.
  39. 1 point
    Oh brother, is that the truth! Last night my wife and I watched semi-doc on Netflix about this old couple (late 80's) who'd lived in a restored Scottish castle for the last 40 years. Too feeble to maintain the estate any longer, it was time for them to sell. So the camera follows them around as they slowly start packing, pretty boring stuff really until the old doll pulls out an enormous clear garbage bag (the backyard autumn leaf size) and says it's full of her hair she's been collecting out of her combs and brushes for the last several decades! Ugh. Hoard Queen? I think we have a winner. Her rational, when asked by the cameraman, was that she'd planned to use it to stuff pillows... double UGH! Perhaps she was a rodent in a past life. πŸ˜‰
  40. 1 point
    I went down the mountain once. It was hot, sticky, and they had bugs. Don't think I'll do that again............. Mike in Colorado
  41. 1 point
    Perfect example of why I do not attend most local cruises and shows with my two 30s cars,,,,that,and the $20.00 Fee somebody's fund raiser !
  42. 1 point
    100% agree. The VERY BEST THING you can do to encourage future hobbyists is to simply let them see old cars just being cars, not art objects, not dangerous clap-traps, not unreliable accidents waiting to happen. There's an insanely persistent myth everywhere that anything that doesn't have 12 volts, disc brakes, and a Chevy V8 in it can't be driven with any safety, reliability, or even at all in today's world. We know that's total BS. But we're only a tiny fraction of the hobby and an even tinier fraction of the world at large. Most guys only know what they see on TV and at local shows where late-models and modified cars dominate. If you see an unmodified pre-war car (or pre-1960 car these days) it's an anomaly and a curiosity. That's what feeds the myth of "old cars can't be used today." Why would it be otherwise--nobody's there showing them the truth. Change that. I've had dozens, if not hundreds of conversations at cruise nights standing next to my 1929 Cadillac or 1941 Buick explaining that I have driven the cars thousands of miles without incident, on today's roads, at modern highway speeds, and at night. Guys who think that 6-volt electrical systems are unreliable and weak have twice forked over $20 to me because my 1929 Cadillac started faster than their 2016 Corvette or Mustang. They are bewildered when my '41 Buick pulls away from them on the highway on-ramp, the driver grinning like an escaped mental patient (that would be me). They can't believe when they see Ohio plates on an old car several states away from home, covered with bugs and gassing up with a family inside with their luggage. Hell, I just took my Buick to ANOTHER COUNTRY and you should have seen the looks I got passing through the border. Even experienced "car guys" are almost completely ignorant of original, unmodified cars. They have no idea that old cars have capabilities that will serve them just fine in today's traffic. Many of them figure that it's either newer than 1965 so it can be driven or it's a Model T. Seriously, go out there and talk to guys at any "local" car show or cruise night. They know NOTHING. Call them out on their BS and prove them wrong. I had an argument with a guy in my shop just this past week where he said, "I convert all my cars to Pertronix--I don't want that unreliable points stuff in there." When I pointed out that points will often keep working even in failure mode while a Pertonix "black box" will completely and permanently stop working in a split-second puff of smoke, he was completely unable to process or even understand my point. Well OF COURSE modern is better than old stuff, right? Upgrades are the only way to be sure you get home. We're so much smarter than those guys 50, 60, 70 years ago, what did they know? That kind of anti-knowledge is a big reason why the part of the hobby we love most is suffering. If you want new car people to be interested in what we're interested in, you need to show them that owning an old car isn't a hardship and doesn't require special skills or a lot of money. Show them that these cars can be driven regularly and reliably and that they still work like regular cars. Everything else is just closing the gate after the horses are gone. If people don't think old cars are cars, they aren't going to be interested. You can let them look all they want, but as long as we let this myth of old cars being fragile, unreliable, dangerous, slow road hazards, they're just not going to get on board. DRIVE THEM EVERYWHERE, not just to shows when the sun is shining. Take them to the grocery store and school meetings like Melanie in her '56 Chrysler. Take them to work every day, like me with my 1941 Buick. Go out to dinner with the family and leave your old car in the parking lot while you go to a movie--don't fuss and fret or do silly things like putting a cover on it. If you're going to visit family someplace within driving distance, take the old car. Stop pretending these aren't machines designed for a purpose. It's just a car like any other; let everyone see that. I am convinced this is the only thing that will save us because the misinformation is so extremely pervasive. Everything else is just whistling past the graveyard.
  43. 1 point
    2019 is almost over I would have thought Canada was feeling the wealth all the Hollywood celebrities brought with them after the US 2016 elections. In fact, when I first heard there was a crisis at the border I thought it was the celebrities jammed up on their way to Canada. Least, that's what I heard they were going to do.
  44. 1 point
    Fantastic bunch of craftsman working in that shop.....................
  45. 1 point
    There will be another car display in downtown Chester, SC on Thursday, September 26 from 2:30 to 4:30 p.m.The Chester Chamber of Commerce has a lot of activities planned, including local actors walking around in period dress. Basically, the folks in Chester are using the tour as an excuse to throw a party.
  46. 1 point
    Many thanks for your kind words Matt. Yes I agree with all you have said in every way. You have a very keen eye for detail and obviously know these cars very well. I've referred to your website many times and have found it extremely helpful thank you. Re the lower trim piece, we decided not to replicate the small curved piece which fits on the rubber gravel shield as expense was getting away and I felt I had to stop somewhere. Being a big of a custom guy (and my friend also) we felt a couple of subtle tasteful modifications done well would work just fine and we're happy with the outcome. Yes I've drooled over the picture of that gorgeous dark silver Roadmaster convertible many times. Stunning car. That and a few others online have been handy references for what a correct car should be. My car is of course the most inexpensive 1941 Buick made (Series A Special Business Coupe) and the Roadmaster Convertible Coupe is something I can only dream about. However, I am extremely happy with my car and never thought I could own something so rare & beautiful here in Australia. I've now driven her over 3,000 miles in just 10 months and jump at every opportunity to get her out. My friend Adam has already been contacted re the possibility of making more sets of skirts for someone in the USA. Your suggestion of reproducing the lower trim piece (but with the vertical forward end, and short curved gravel shield extension) makes good sense. Sincere thanks for taking the time to comment Matt.
  47. 1 point
    Merri, it sounds as if you want to hire a car and its owner to give your father a ride. You must be 150 miles from the tour, and while people like to help others, every day the tourists will be busy in the day and the evening. It would be a considerable expense for people to come to you, and are you willing to bear that cost? But here's a better idea! The best thing to do would be for you and your father to visit the host hotel in the late afternoon when people are coming back to the hotel from the tour. You will see plenty of old cars in the parking lot, and if your timing is good, you can talk to the owners. It might be better to make contact in advance, such as you are trying to do through this forum, and arrange to meet a car owner at a specific time. Maybe the owner can give your father a ride around the large parking lot. Your father will see dozens of cars--far better than just one!
  48. 1 point
    Overall progress seems slow. The body is scheduled to be fully epoxy primed next week, followed by detail bodywork to clean up small dents and welds that have been ground. The car will not be free of filler, but the 40+ gallons that were removed will be replaced by considerably less. The car will then get a coat of high build primer and be ready for blocking. My estimate of 40 gallons may seem like an exaggeration. That could be but I'd hate to see an X-ray of the lungs from the guy that put all that bondo on the car, then sanded it to be the perfect disguise that it was. I've been able to collect a good number of NOS chrome and now endeavour to have the remainder of the chromed parts replated. The remainder of the chrome has been rounded up and includes interior windshield garnish, convertible top bows, radio speaker grill, exterior door handles, exterior rear window frame, and so on. Since I have the equivalent of three cars disassembled, labeled and boxed in my suburban garage, I need to review photos to be sure I have all the pieces that need to be replated. I'm told to expect three months. I've searched for an experienced plater that also comes by recommendation. I've tried a few pieces with a couple folks and have ruled them out. I found the plater that Lewis Jenkins used and will be driving my parts up to him in the next week or so. The car has been in Dan's hands for a little over two years now. I expect to get it back late this fall where I can finish the engine, install brakes an rebuilt rear end and torque tube, steering, wiring, and whatever else I forgot to mention. I've tentatively identified an interior shop that has done several Buicks and appears to understand the required authenticity.
  49. 1 point
    Trunk rehab continued: The right rear body mount was cracked and with too many pinholes from rust: The new mount: The trunk finished with welds ground and spot welding completed:
  50. 1 point
    My wife and kids get the signs for me. Birthday and Christmas.